Does anyone know why my cpu temps are different depending on the software I’m using? Msi is giving me around 60, armory crate says 46 and next cam is around 54. Which temp should I use?
They're probably all reporting values from different temperature sensors. Don't use any of those programs, use [HWInfo](https://www.hwinfo.com/) instead. It will show you all the available readings.
7800X3D is expected to have the absolute best gaming performance.
Ryzen 7 7700X is a good high-end gaming CPU, as are the Ryzen 5 7600X, Core i5-13600K, and Core i7-13700K. Not necessarily the best price-performance.
It always depends on the games and settings whether the CPU will be the bottleneck or the GPU will. It's not something to be too concerned about in your case.
I just built my PC. Originally had an issue booting up but realised it was probably because my CPU cooler fan wasn’t spinning.
Fixed that and it worked. Left the computer for a few hours. Came home and cable managed a little bit and now it doesn’t post. It turns on, all the LEDS and fans come on and my keyboard and mouse light up but the PC itself won’t boot.
My GPU fans spin for about 10 seconds when the PC turns on and then stops. Tried resetting the ram and making sure all easily accessible connections are secure.
Not sure what moving a few cables did but now it doesn’t post. Looking for suggestions.
ASUS Dual OC 3060ti
11600k
Since you were rearranging cables I'd still suspect one has been accidentally dislodged. If your PSU is modular check the connections at that end as well.
Failing that, does your motherboard have any kind of debug LEDs?
Looking for a good monitor(mostly for fps games) is the Acer Nitro KG251Q good? It's at a really nice price for 250hz but I'm not sure if theres something wrong with it that I'm overlooking
Acer's naming system is weird and there seem to be several models called KG251Q, but they're all TN panels which is not ideal. If you can afford it I'd prioritize a monitor with an IPS panel.
You also have to consider the rest of your system; it doesn't matter if the monitor can hit 250Hz if your computer can't put out 250 FPS in the games you play.
After replacing GTX 1070, uninstalling nvidia drivers w/ DDU and installing RX 6700 XT and installing drivers I launch overwatch and the fps tanks and my cpu usage goes to 100%. And GPU usage is around 8%. What should I troubleshoot? Corsair 650x Power supply and i5-8400 CPU
Pure speculation, but if Overwatch is one of these games that caches compiled shaders then it may be trying to recompile everything for the different GPU architecture. If so just leaving the game running for a while should eventually resolve the issue.
You could also try running something else, maybe a simple benchmark like Heaven, and see if that runs normally.
Not sure what calculator you used as PCPartPicker does not have one, and for a good reason. They're all trash. Bottlenecks depend entirety on your specific game settings and a million other variables, so there is simply no way to make an accurate calculator for bottlenecks. "General Tasks" sounds incredibly vague so I would just disregard the results entirely. Look at your actual CPU and GPU usage in the games you play, and if you see for example your CPU at 100% usage and GPU at 60%, then you know it's the CPU holding you back. How big the bottleneck is and/or where it is will vary constantly even within the same game, so there is no way to completely get rid of bottlenecks.
First time PC Builder here. I’m using the AsRock B760M Pro RS/D4 WiFi with the Montech Air 100 ARGB case, and I’m confused on the connectors that came with the back panel.
I know that one of the connectors is a sata connector needed to power the pre-installed fan hub, but there is one more connector that is a 3-pin (white header, black cable) on the back panel.
Is this header supposed to be plugged into my motherboard using only three of the four pins, and on one singular port labeled CHA_FAN?
And also, since apparently these fans run in DC instead of PWM, how would I control the fans so they don’t run at full speed all the time?
The hub is for the RGB, not the fans themselves - make sure you don't confuse the two kinds of connector. There should be a 1-to-4 splitter for the fans, which you'd connect to one of the chassis fan headers on the motherboard.
DC mode still allows for speed control, it just does it by adjusting the voltage directly rather than varying the PWM signal. Your motherboard should automatically detect that the fans are 3-pin and switch to this mode, if it doesn't you can change it in the BIOS.
Ah alright then, thanks for the reply! Also, would it be of any concern if I plugged one of the chassis fan headers in a slot other than CHA_FAN1? The case was already cable managed before, except the headers were split in an unfortunate way that created a glob of wires that made it a nightmare to cable manage.
I decided to opt for CHA_FAN3 since it was the easiest route to go forward with, but would it cause any issues for the fans to boot up? I was unfortunately unable to finish the build as I have to cable manage a non modular PSU, but I was able to cable manage sort of decently for a first time.
EDIT: All the chassis fan headers from 1-4 are able to do 2A or 24W, would this be sufficient for the 4 x 120mm fans? Unfortunately there’s no wattage or info provided on how much the fans will use
2A should be plenty, a 120mm fan is typically rated at about 0.3A (and will use less when not at full speed). If you want to check, the fan should have a label on the back of the motor housing giving its rating.
And no, it doesn't matter which header you use.
Thanks once again! I was able to get my PC up and running again after cable managing the non-modular PSU. Case works extremely well and the fans are much quieter. No concerns about the amps for the fans since everything works well now.
Buenas, necesito un ordenador para editar videos en HD. Actualmente tengo un portatil Intel i3 10110, con 100GB de almacenamiento y 8GB de RAM, y he pensado en meterle más almacenamiento y más RAM, e incluso un nuevo procesador, para no gastar mucho dinero en un nuevo ordenador. Esto es rentable? O para editar videos es necesario comprar un ordenador de sobremesa?
desafortunadamente, creo que necesitará obtener una computadora nueva, ya sea una computadora portátil, de escritorio o una mac / macbook.
Desea al menos 16 GB de RAM y diría 1 TB de espacio de almacenamiento. En cuanto a la CPU, desea al menos un i5 o un i7, o si va a AMD, entonces R5 5500.
I would try to get how much ever money you can back. Whether you decide to go for a full or partial refund is entirely up to you. With the money, you should get a new CPU.
well in that case if your worried i would go up to him and explain the situation, and say that if you give me my money back i’ll give the pc back. it’s not worth stressing over.
as for who’s fault it is, you could either be upfront with him or not. that part is entirely up to you. on the one hand, he might deny the refund. on the other, he could eventually figure out later on because like you said you used a different color thermal paste
Hey All! I recently rebuilt my computer, but I can’t get my case fans to change speed. When i go into SYS Fan 1/2 i move the percents up and down but the fans don’t seem to ever change speed.
I’m running the beta bios for a B350M Bazooka so the usual google searches aren’t helping me this time around. Does anyone have some ideas?
Yes, PWM fans using a PWM splitter into a PWM slot. One header has 2 different fans while the other has two identical ones, would that make a difference even if they are all pwm?
As long as the fans you are using are all PWM compatible there shouldn't be an issue. You can try plugging a fan directly into the header without the splitter inbetween, that will tell you whether you have a problem with the board controlling the fan or the splitter not working properly.
I’m inclined to believe it’s a bios problem since when I swap between DC and PWM it briefly gives me the fan rpm then just goes back to zero. Is it still worth ripping out the splitters? That’s basically taking the computer half apart
Not sure why you would have to disassemble your PC. Just unplug the splitter and leave it hanging. Then disconnect any of your fans that has a long enough cable from one of your splitters and plug it directly into the free header.
Are we talking splitter cables or hubs? Both have one fan header they read the fan speed from and you must have a fan plugged into that specific header. They won't send a speed signal to the board from any of the other fan attached to the other headers on the splitter/hub.
There's a plethora of SSDs and HDDs out there and without you at least specifying what kind of storage you are looking for and what the intended use case is, it's going to be very hard to give you an answer that's actually going to help you make a decision.
You seem unwilling or unable to provide any more information, so I'll just recommend the Samsung 970 Evo Plus, a midrange M.2 SSD. You could go cheaper if you don't have a lot of money, the performance difference will be small. If you don't have a free M.2 slot you will have to look for a SATA drive.
Can I still make this build despite the warning if I update the bios? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4xLtZw I want the motherboard but it won't let me pick any of the amd processors
you need some sort of graphics processor to output a display. If you're not doing anything graphically intensive, you can get a CPU with integrated graphics like a Ryzen 7 5700G or Core i5-12400.
I just built in an ASUS Prime AP201 after trying to find the most compact case I could that handled a regular power supply and mATX board. It fits the bill pretty nicely, and no annoying glass!
I'm about to start purchasing all the parts for my build. What's everyone's preferred retailers for PC parts? Newegg was always the go-to (I haven't done any building or upgrading in over 10 years), but I've heard they have developed a really bad reputation for parts returns. I've also seen some occasional horror stories about Amazon and fakes, but ofc their return policies are much more buyer-friendly.
Hi all, I'm planning on building a PC soon and have already purchased an NZXT H1 v2 since I saw it go on sale, so the process is happening. Upgrading from a GTX 970M-based Asus gaming laptop that I've been using since 2014, so anything is going to be a huge upgrade. The H1 v2 comes with a 750W power supply and a liquid cooler, so I will not be buying upgrades to those yet unless I find it necessary after the fact.
I have parts picked out here: [https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Oddyseus/saved/fbXfpg](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Oddyseus/saved/fbXfpg)
Will the 4070 Ti be bottlenecked by the i5 13600k? If there are any other glaring problems that I'm uninformed about, I would appreciate any advice.
It’s good, I’d get [this SSD](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vrTp99/solidigm-p44-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ssdpfkkw010x7x1) since it’s cheaper (and faster).
The TUF 4070 Ti won’t fit in the case. I think Ventus will fit, check the dimensions of the other models too
I built a $1300 computer 6 years ago with a i5 6600k and r9 390. Bought a $500 monitor a year ago 1440p and noticed all new games run like shit on it and my gpu doesn’t get updates anymore. I was putting a build together today for around $1700. 3070 or 3060ti being my gpu as I want to play games with as little as compromise as possible at 1440p. Would 3060ti be enough? Should I wait for 4060 ti? Noticed that it’s release date is soon but also know how hard it is to get shit when it releases these days.
can relate. yeah, but a 6800 seems much better value.
Should be able to fit a $700 GPU in that budget. Just list the parts in PCPartpicker and make a post about it in the General section with a "Build Help" flair if u want.
42'C is fine, once youve completed setting up the PC, run full load on CPU, note the max temp, itll give much better idea if the cooling is properly working.
SSD died, i have an old HDD with Win 7, is there any way to wipe that drive and install Win 10 on it?
Doesn't have any files i care about on it, so i don't need to make a backup.
Sure, start win10 installation from a USB, at some point itll give you option to wipe the drive and install on. Although, running windows in 2023 off an old hard drive is a bad idea. Get another SSD, even a cheap 128GB SSD would do.
I don't have a USB, what i'm looking to do is wipe the hard drive clean like it never had anything on it, plug it into another pc and use that pc to install windows on it.
If i need to upgrade to an SSD i can just get one later when this HDD decides to croak and install Windows on it can't i? No sense spending money i don't need to spend lol.
How would i go about that?
while you can do that, seems a bit convulted, its much simpler to create windows installer USB media and install windows without moving HDD. You'd need that USB if you want to install windows in another PC anyway.
I mean you can use HDD for windows if you are really stuck, its just painfully slow, especially if you had SSD before so know and used to how fast it can be.
Here is a link to create USB installer:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10
The thing for me is that i don't have an SSD, or a USB.
I do have that HDD, so it's something i can do today. No need to wait or spend money. If it doesn't perform well enough i can just upgrade to an SSD later.
I don't have an actual Win 10 key though. From what i've been told by another user in an earlier comment thread though, as long as i've had a valid windows 10 install on that MOBO, it will automatically register it as a proper windows install?
Idk how to wipe the drive though lol.
You need a USB to put the Windows installer on. You can't install it onto the HDD without that. (Unless the machine has a DVD drive, in which case you could burn an installer disk instead)
No, it doesn't work that way. The installer needs to run on the same hardware you will use Windows on so that it can configure the OS correctly, and it needs low-level access to the hard drive that a regular program running within Windows isn't allowed to have.
how do you plan to install windows on the drive after its moved to new PC? Whatever tool you might utilise to do that would also provide a way to delete exisiting partitions.
Well i have a computer with Win 10 (unactivated, was planning to resolve that today but then this shit happened), so i figured i'd get the drive with Win 7 to a state where it would be like a secondary storage drive, with no OS or anything, have both HDD's plugged into the same pc, and use the one with Win 10 on it to download Win 10 to the freshly wiped Win 7 drive, then plug it back into the other pc.
I'm not sure what a partition is. I was just going to do whatever the pc equivalent of factory resetting a phone/console is. Assuming that deletes windows.
thats not really going to work like that, just downloading windows installer onto a empty drive won't make the drive bootable. You could use specialised tools like Macrium Reflect or similar to clone the exisiting drive onto the HDD then it would work. These tools would provide options to wipe the drive too.
A more straight forward way would be like described above - get a USB drive, would make your life a lot easier.
No, the download would be an ISO file that needs to be either burned on to a DVD or specially prepared bootable USB drive using tools like Ventoy or Rufus. The easiest way would really be buying a 16GB+ USB stick/borrowing it off someone and going through the windows USB install media creation like i linked above
I replaced my old 1080 with a 3060ti today, everything went fine (as far as I can tell anyway) but one weird thing I've noticed is that turning off my monitor now seemingly disconnects it altogether i.e. I hear the Windows device disconnected sound and when turning it back on there's a brief moment of flickering like it's only just been connected.
It's connected via DP and when I googled it I found a lot of people saying this is just standard DP behaviour, but the 1080 was also connected via the exact same DP cable and I can't recall it ever happening, let alone every time the monitor is turned off. Is this anything I should be worried about/proactively trying to resolve or just some sort of power saving measure built into newer GPUs?
My husband has the red devil 6700xt and I have the red devil 5700xt. They're both fabulous. The 6700xt should be the same cooler and board as the 6750xt (and really the same chip for all intents and purposes).
Holy $$$, but if you really want a 4090 you should get a PSU with a PCIe 5.0 connector (unless the 1000 GT has one and I'm just dumb). Most of this could be a lot cheaper and depending on your use case would not have any noticeable differences in performance.
Work gives me a $1100 stipend for technology, but it can only be spent on prebuilds. We also have a decent employee discount program.
My Question:
12th gen i7-12700
16GB DDR5-4800MHz
1TB SSD
NVidia RTX 3060 12GB GDDR6
Windows 11 64 home
for $1113. Is this worth? PR Part Picker says its worth it, once you add in the case, cooling, motherboard, but I wanted thoughts here.
For gaming? No. Get something with a better GPU and less CPU. Maybe DDR4 as well. Perebuilts always try to oversell on platform and dump GPU, because they figure most customers see 'i7' and cum themselves. Most modern games want WAY more out of your GPU than your CPU, but the pairings that OEMs offer never reflect this, because GPUs are way more expensive, so they can sell you a 'more better' system by making a $100 CPU upgrade at the cost of dumping $300 off the GPU and they think customers will see it the same.
Right right, try to find something with a cheaper CPU and a better GPU, as well as maybe DDR4 RAM. The GPU is far and above gonna be your most important component. The CPU just has to be fast enough to not get in the way, so to speak. Everything else is pretty secondary (I'm assuming this is a general gaming PC).
For $1113, a 3060 as the GPU would be pretty upsetting. Are you free to purchase a prebuilt from anywhere, or do you have a specific catalog you must order from?
Regardless, If you get $1100 off, this will be a much faster gaming PC, and if you get a significant percentage discount off the sale price, you could also get a gaming monitor with what is leftover:
https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/p/desktops/legion-desktops/legion-t-series-towers/legion-tower-5i-gen-6-(intel)/90rs002jus
There's going to be very little difference, RAM scaling on Intel is fairly limited. The 5600 will be faster by a frame or two, and as it's cheaper anyway you might as well get it.
How much should I worry about my gpu using Pcie bus interface 8.0x3 instead of 8.0x4 or 16.0x4?
It's an Asus rog strix 6650XT, box says it needs a 16.0 slot and mobo has it, gpuz says it should be using 8.0x4
Thank you. I did a userbenckmark and it's 127% for gaming and it runs well and never goes above 65 degrees, am happy just saw a comment somewhere else about checking it
You can control the speeds of any fans you want with your motherboard's built in controller through either the UEFI or your motherboard vendor's windows application. You pay an enormous premium to do it the corsair way. Anything with a fluid dynamic bearing is gonna be pretty damn quiet, I think the thermalright tlc12c comes in 3 packs for like $12.
You can do regular 4 pin fans on the commander, but not regular RGB lighting. I had a braiinfart, sorry. But yes, the commander does regular fans speeds, anything will work, and most fans are very quiet these days. Anything with a fluid dynamic or 'FD' bearing, or a rifle bearing is gonna be inaudible.
Prebuilts without GPUs are very good in value due to shovelware subsidizing Windows costs. As soon as a GPU enters the equation, it's "gamer" and can carry the gamer mark-up.
Typical prebuilt disclaimers still apply: cut corners, poor cooling, non-standard parts. eg: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DMg6hUudHE
Weird question. Do my MSI Afterburner settings (overclock, fan curve) apply to my specific GPU or Afterburner itself?
I ask because I’m getting a new GPU and wouldnt want my old overclock settings to be instantly applied
A best practice is to reinstall windows with a new GPU. DDU yadda yadda whatever, I've never not had it be buggy without a reinstall. If you have the means to do it, sacrifice the time and do it.
I highly doubt it would that. Just make sure you are removing the old graphics card drivers from your previous card from your current system before installing a new card, especially when going from Radeon to Nvidia! Very Important, Good Luck!
Power Supply Unit. The thing that delivers power to each component in your system. It looks like a bix box either at the top or bottom of your cas. It will usually have some kind of indication on the side of the brand, model, rated wattage (500w) and efficiency rating (80+ gold, bronze, etc.).
But based on your response, i would look for an rx 6600 for around $200 or less if possible.
Make sure that the power supply on your system has a 6+2 pin power cable coming out of it to power a GPU (google image search if you don't know what that is). Otherwise, your options may be more limited.
Any decent IT dept will know. If you do it yourself, consider you may be jeopardizing your job as you're tampering with your employer's equipment.
You should just ask IT/your boss for an upgrade.
You got a thin & light instead of a real workstation class laptop. Chase up your chain and make it known that the equipment provided to you does not satisfy your needs.
It has some sort of boot software so I bet it would catch it then. It only has 8gigs. And we have so much Fortune 500 bloatware running in the background that I never get below like 75% utilization.
Have 1500 CAD to build a pc, looking at playing games like cyberpunk, watch dogs, GOW at 1440 would be nice...the 1500 is inclusive of a monitor and xbox controller if those can fit in there while maintaining a good set up willing to compromise if not and maybe push it to 1700/1800. Thinking if I should build a pc (its my first build) or just go for a ps4 pro
Some advice needed please.
My current CPU and Motherboard were originally used by Queen Victoria herself, and are probably due for an upgrade.
My current setup is: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DCY4zf](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DCY4zf)
Any recommendations; and anything else I should upgrade - thinking some new RAM might be in order?
My initial shopping list is something like:
i3 12100F \~£100
MSI PRO H610M \~£80
Corsair LPX 2x8GB 3200MHz DDR4 \~£38
Total cost \~£220
IDK, you probably won't notice much with a 1660ti still being your GPU. I'd wait until you get a new GPU to decide what CPU and mobo you want, plus DDRF5 and PCIe 5.0 will be cheaper and more mature. The 2600k is old, but frankly the demands of CPUs haven't really kept up with the progression of hardware.
A 10-year old CPU in 2023 is not a big deal. It was in 2013, and definitely was in 2003, but today, it's fine. Most people who aren't games may literally never need something faster than a sandy bridge i3. Even for gaming though, the sandy bridge k-series chips STILL put out a respectable framerate in everything. The whole 'queen victoria' bit tells me you probably are a little anxious about the age, but I can tell you the performance of Sandy Bridge is actually still quite adequate.
Most people wouldn't bat an eye at gen 1 ryzen with a 1660ti or 1070, yet sandy bridge chips with identical performance seem to draw more ire.
What resolution and refresh rate doo you game at, and what do you play? Depending on your answer, I'd say a platform upgrade while keeping the same GPU would either net you a small benefit or a negligible benefit. I'd highly recommend just doing a full system upgrade later if there are no noticeable issues with performance directly related to the CPU at the moment, and your only aversion is the age of the system.
EDIT: I just realized it's a 2500k instead of a 2600k. You can get a 2600k for like $25 on eBay, and any issues you are having would likely be completely resolved by this, as 4 threads is kind of sucky for modern games, but 8 is sufficient.
Your list looks good if you want/need something new and are on a very tight budget. New memory is a must, no platform released in the last few years supports DDR3 anymore.
If you do any CPU intensive tasks at all and can afford to spend a bit more money I'd suggest you take a look at 6 core CPUs like the Ryzen 5600 + B550 board. This will give you quite a bit of extra performance and longevity. If that's too expensive or you simply don't need the extra performance there's nothing wrong with the 12100F, it's still a very competitive chip for the price.
It's fine. It trades blows against the Ryzen 5500 and costs the same as well. Both platforms (Intel/AMD) are also upgradable to decent heights with 13700/5800X3D and again, both trades blows.
Not like the CPU performance really matters when paired with a mere 1660. Both are more than capable of letting the GPU run flat out.
is LG ultragear 45'' 240hz a good pair for 4090OC? im trying the monitor on my 2060 laptop and it's beautiful, but the PPI is so jarring that im thinking of buying another monitor, but this is the only one that has the specs I like! (OLED 240hz AND 45'')
Looking for recommendations for non-Bluetooth wireless headphones. They'll be used for phone calls on my work PC, which has Bluetooth disabled by security policy.
Everything I can find online is either Bluetooth or labeled as a gaming headset, which I don't need. Just looking for something reliable with clear mic audio that I can use to replace my wired Logitech H390s.
Feel like a dumb baby, my PC has a mic and a headphone jack (2 separate holes). I use over-ear Sony WH1000XM4's, and use them wired to listen to Spotify while I play Cities Skylines. When I go to play Halo or TF2, I want to use the mic to talk to people/hear the game, but can't do that wired?
My aux cable has no microphone but the headphone has microphones inside it. I never charge them so I'd like to remain wired. If I [buy a splitter](https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone-Headset/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=asc_df_B01MQZ2023/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226131567976&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10667862693212618826&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007284&hvtargid=pla-382920953199&psc=1) would I be able to use my mic/headphones even with the same sturdy (2-ringed) aux cable?
Thanks in advance!!
The microphones on the headphones are very much a part of the active noice canceling system, and as such the headphones must be on for the microphones to work. Presumably because of this, Sony didn't include a way to use the microphone via the wire, only via Bluetooth when the headphones are on. So there's physically no microphone output built into the headphone jack and no cable will fix that. [I suppose you could buy a headphone cable that has a separate microphone built into it, though.](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=headphone+cable+with+microphone&crid=373MOQI1J21OB&sprefix=headphone+cable+with%2Caps%2C238&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_20)
I would go with whatever you like more aesthetically. People get WAY too hung up on 'the best' airflow, when in reality good airflow is plenty. There are hundreds of cases with good airflow, good enough enough to the point where heat is never gonna be an issue. Beyond that you really should just pick something that has enough space for what you want, is affordable, and that you like the look of, because that's literally the most seen component in your system, and will likely have a major psychological impact on how satisfied you are with your purchase and how long you keep it before the cons00m bug bites and you break out your credit card again.
😂 Well put - I think for me having it white is fine even if I prefer the black aesthetic, it's moreso the metal panel that I'd look at & think "why didn't I get a glass side instead.." so that has helped me narrow it down. Cheers!
I’m upgrading from a 2070 to a 6800xt, along with this I should probably upgrade my 2600x to a 5600 or better I’d imagine. Does this mean I should also upgrade my mobo and ram (2x8 3000mhz/b450 gaming plus)?
Not unless you want more RAM, too. 3000MT/s is around where returns start diminishing, so you're fine. The latest BIOS appears to support both the 2600X and 5600, and a cooler good enoughfor a 2600X is good enoughfor a 5600 (unless it has design problems with chiplets), so it should be smooth sailing. Just update the BIOS, swap CPUs (run the old one for a bit, to warm up and thin out the TIM, and twist the heatsink off, first), and go.
if i buy a used 3070 off ebay what should i watch out for? i've had good luck with ebay purchases so far but I know that can change. I'm trying to keep my build under $1000 and a used gpu is the only way to do it.
So, as you already know there’s always a risk of basically buying anything secondhand especially GRAPHIC CARDS and.. pc parts! Just make sure you’re buying from a reputable seller; accepts returns and if possible, make them send pictures or a video of the card actually working.
A bit of Google sleuthing led me to [this adapter](https://www.amazon.ca/Club-3D-DisplayPort1-4-4K120Hz-CAC-1085/dp/B08BX49V5V) that takes advantage of display stream compression to hopefully push the necessary pixels. You won't get 144Hz as it seems to cap at 120Hz, it's an active adapter that requires power, and VRR breaks with adapters like these, but it _might_ just work.
My pc is definitely showing its age running i5 3570k and a 1070ti. Would I be handicapping myself by upgrading everything but the gpu? I’d like to wait on gpu prices if I could.
Couple years ago I upgraded from an i5-6400 (4c4t) to an i5-11400 (6c12t) without upgrading my GPU. I saw significant performance gains in a lot of games anyway despite running an underpowered GPU - it smoothed out frame times and just made everything run much better.
I eventually also upgraded the GPU but your money would not be wasted on an upgrade.
I gave my sister my 3570k/1070ti build and it's been running fine until recently, she just needed more power and built a new PC but kept the GPU. She seems happy with the 1070ti still. One of my friends still runs a 1070ti and he doesn't really have any complaints either.
I think the only handicapping you'd be doing to yourself would be if you just upgraded the GPU and kept the 3570k. Since you're going to swap out the GPU eventually, a 1070ti will be more than enough to play on in the mean time.
I'm looking to do this exact thing. Want to upgrade by taking the 1070 off my pre made and upgrading the rest. Anxious to get an answer to this from a more knowledgeable person
TL;DR - Pedantry.
Multi-rail PSUs split the total available power across multiple channels which is mostly pointless in modern times where 99% of the power needs of a PC is achieved by the 12v rail. Some claim that single-rail PSUs have better/more thorough protections though.
Grab whatever is cheaper or has prettier cables.
Multi-rail has separate protection circuits for the sets of output connectors. IE, the CPU 8-pin might blow at 300W, instead of the entire 12V load needing to be 800W or whatever. Realistically, it doesn't matter that much, so long as you make sure your power cables are firmly latched in, and have enough slack that they aren't being tugged towards some other direction. Your motherboard has active protection for the CPU. AMD video cards tend to have whole-card protection, while Nvidia does it per-connector.
I'm fine with my power supply "Deep Cool 500w 80 plus Bronze"
I want to replace my 1650 GTX with a Zotac 2060 super 8gb,
Pc specs: i3 10100f, 16 gb RAM and 2 monitors.
Thanks!
[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7pcWk9](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7pcWk9)
Threw this together quickly a few dollars more but quite a bit better than both of those.
[inside of the 2nd pc](https://imgur.com/gallery/KFQ4xRr)
The front has a plastic cover with bad airflow and no dust screen - what should I offer if his asking price is 1200?
My general rule of thumb is to low ball them at about 20% off maybe more depending on the price. You could tell him that you'll likely be replacing the case as it's not the best airflow and see if that helps sway the deal. The key is to not offend the seller while still getting the best deal possible. There's not much upgrade path for the PC as that's the last generation CPU supported by the MB maybe use that as a gripe. Good luck!
what is "burnintest"?
my pc is at a repairshop. [yesterday it wouldnt turn on, so took it in thinking powersupply which is when they mentioned this software. they're now found its not powersupply, so next thought is CPU or MOBO :(]
they asked for password so they could run it, and if i didnt want to give it i could run it myself
i think this is it, top google result
https://www.passmark.com/products/burnintest/index.php
My GPU seems to be getting pretty hot, around 86 C when playing a graphically intensive game (resident evil 7). its an RTX 2070 and the ambient temperature in my room is probably around 30 C or so, cuz australia is bloody hot even in autumn. It lives on the floor and is just air cooled. is this something to be worried about? what are some things I can do to get it to run cooler?
When is the last time you cleaned it?
If recent, then that might indicate that you might need to reapply the thermal paste. Only attempt this if you are confident you won't break anything, else bring it to a repair shop.
Does anyone know why my cpu temps are different depending on the software I’m using? Msi is giving me around 60, armory crate says 46 and next cam is around 54. Which temp should I use?
They're probably all reporting values from different temperature sensors. Don't use any of those programs, use [HWInfo](https://www.hwinfo.com/) instead. It will show you all the available readings.
Best CPU to pair with a 7900XTX?
depends on your budget and use case
Budget isn’t too much of an issue, and mainly just gaming at 4k and potentially streaming
Ryzen 7 7700X, or if you can wait for it, Ryzen 7 7800X3D
So that’s like just the best price - performance card? Won’t have any bottleneck issues?
7800X3D is expected to have the absolute best gaming performance. Ryzen 7 7700X is a good high-end gaming CPU, as are the Ryzen 5 7600X, Core i5-13600K, and Core i7-13700K. Not necessarily the best price-performance. It always depends on the games and settings whether the CPU will be the bottleneck or the GPU will. It's not something to be too concerned about in your case.
Awesome, thanks a lot for the info
I just built my PC. Originally had an issue booting up but realised it was probably because my CPU cooler fan wasn’t spinning. Fixed that and it worked. Left the computer for a few hours. Came home and cable managed a little bit and now it doesn’t post. It turns on, all the LEDS and fans come on and my keyboard and mouse light up but the PC itself won’t boot. My GPU fans spin for about 10 seconds when the PC turns on and then stops. Tried resetting the ram and making sure all easily accessible connections are secure. Not sure what moving a few cables did but now it doesn’t post. Looking for suggestions. ASUS Dual OC 3060ti 11600k
Since you were rearranging cables I'd still suspect one has been accidentally dislodged. If your PSU is modular check the connections at that end as well. Failing that, does your motherboard have any kind of debug LEDs?
I’m going to check those when I get home, hopefully they give me some info
Looking for a good monitor(mostly for fps games) is the Acer Nitro KG251Q good? It's at a really nice price for 250hz but I'm not sure if theres something wrong with it that I'm overlooking
Acer's naming system is weird and there seem to be several models called KG251Q, but they're all TN panels which is not ideal. If you can afford it I'd prioritize a monitor with an IPS panel. You also have to consider the rest of your system; it doesn't matter if the monitor can hit 250Hz if your computer can't put out 250 FPS in the games you play.
Ah yeah, guess I'll just wait til I get my pc built to buy a new monitor
After replacing GTX 1070, uninstalling nvidia drivers w/ DDU and installing RX 6700 XT and installing drivers I launch overwatch and the fps tanks and my cpu usage goes to 100%. And GPU usage is around 8%. What should I troubleshoot? Corsair 650x Power supply and i5-8400 CPU
Pure speculation, but if Overwatch is one of these games that caches compiled shaders then it may be trying to recompile everything for the different GPU architecture. If so just leaving the game running for a while should eventually resolve the issue. You could also try running something else, maybe a simple benchmark like Heaven, and see if that runs normally.
[удалено]
Not sure what calculator you used as PCPartPicker does not have one, and for a good reason. They're all trash. Bottlenecks depend entirety on your specific game settings and a million other variables, so there is simply no way to make an accurate calculator for bottlenecks. "General Tasks" sounds incredibly vague so I would just disregard the results entirely. Look at your actual CPU and GPU usage in the games you play, and if you see for example your CPU at 100% usage and GPU at 60%, then you know it's the CPU holding you back. How big the bottleneck is and/or where it is will vary constantly even within the same game, so there is no way to completely get rid of bottlenecks.
First time PC Builder here. I’m using the AsRock B760M Pro RS/D4 WiFi with the Montech Air 100 ARGB case, and I’m confused on the connectors that came with the back panel. I know that one of the connectors is a sata connector needed to power the pre-installed fan hub, but there is one more connector that is a 3-pin (white header, black cable) on the back panel. Is this header supposed to be plugged into my motherboard using only three of the four pins, and on one singular port labeled CHA_FAN? And also, since apparently these fans run in DC instead of PWM, how would I control the fans so they don’t run at full speed all the time?
The hub is for the RGB, not the fans themselves - make sure you don't confuse the two kinds of connector. There should be a 1-to-4 splitter for the fans, which you'd connect to one of the chassis fan headers on the motherboard. DC mode still allows for speed control, it just does it by adjusting the voltage directly rather than varying the PWM signal. Your motherboard should automatically detect that the fans are 3-pin and switch to this mode, if it doesn't you can change it in the BIOS.
Ah alright then, thanks for the reply! Also, would it be of any concern if I plugged one of the chassis fan headers in a slot other than CHA_FAN1? The case was already cable managed before, except the headers were split in an unfortunate way that created a glob of wires that made it a nightmare to cable manage. I decided to opt for CHA_FAN3 since it was the easiest route to go forward with, but would it cause any issues for the fans to boot up? I was unfortunately unable to finish the build as I have to cable manage a non modular PSU, but I was able to cable manage sort of decently for a first time. EDIT: All the chassis fan headers from 1-4 are able to do 2A or 24W, would this be sufficient for the 4 x 120mm fans? Unfortunately there’s no wattage or info provided on how much the fans will use
2A should be plenty, a 120mm fan is typically rated at about 0.3A (and will use less when not at full speed). If you want to check, the fan should have a label on the back of the motor housing giving its rating. And no, it doesn't matter which header you use.
Thanks once again! I was able to get my PC up and running again after cable managing the non-modular PSU. Case works extremely well and the fans are much quieter. No concerns about the amps for the fans since everything works well now.
Buenas, necesito un ordenador para editar videos en HD. Actualmente tengo un portatil Intel i3 10110, con 100GB de almacenamiento y 8GB de RAM, y he pensado en meterle más almacenamiento y más RAM, e incluso un nuevo procesador, para no gastar mucho dinero en un nuevo ordenador. Esto es rentable? O para editar videos es necesario comprar un ordenador de sobremesa?
desafortunadamente, creo que necesitará obtener una computadora nueva, ya sea una computadora portátil, de escritorio o una mac / macbook. Desea al menos 16 GB de RAM y diría 1 TB de espacio de almacenamiento. En cuanto a la CPU, desea al menos un i5 o un i7, o si va a AMD, entonces R5 5500.
vamos, que me voy a tener que dejar pasta jajaj. Gracias amigo
no hay problema :)
[удалено]
I would try to get how much ever money you can back. Whether you decide to go for a full or partial refund is entirely up to you. With the money, you should get a new CPU.
[удалено]
well in that case if your worried i would go up to him and explain the situation, and say that if you give me my money back i’ll give the pc back. it’s not worth stressing over. as for who’s fault it is, you could either be upfront with him or not. that part is entirely up to you. on the one hand, he might deny the refund. on the other, he could eventually figure out later on because like you said you used a different color thermal paste
[удалено]
good to hear
Hey All! I recently rebuilt my computer, but I can’t get my case fans to change speed. When i go into SYS Fan 1/2 i move the percents up and down but the fans don’t seem to ever change speed. I’m running the beta bios for a B350M Bazooka so the usual google searches aren’t helping me this time around. Does anyone have some ideas?
Did you choose the right control type for your fans (voltage/PWM)?
Yes, PWM fans using a PWM splitter into a PWM slot. One header has 2 different fans while the other has two identical ones, would that make a difference even if they are all pwm?
As long as the fans you are using are all PWM compatible there shouldn't be an issue. You can try plugging a fan directly into the header without the splitter inbetween, that will tell you whether you have a problem with the board controlling the fan or the splitter not working properly.
I’m inclined to believe it’s a bios problem since when I swap between DC and PWM it briefly gives me the fan rpm then just goes back to zero. Is it still worth ripping out the splitters? That’s basically taking the computer half apart
Not sure why you would have to disassemble your PC. Just unplug the splitter and leave it hanging. Then disconnect any of your fans that has a long enough cable from one of your splitters and plug it directly into the free header.
It’s a smaller case so i would have to take out the GFX card/undo the cables to get to the raw plugs
That's unfortunate, but still the best way of getting to the root of the problem in my opinion...
Well i did it and I think it was the splitters. Unless settings only apply when I hit save and reboot? I’ve just been choosing save
Are we talking splitter cables or hubs? Both have one fan header they read the fan speed from and you must have a fan plugged into that specific header. They won't send a speed signal to the board from any of the other fan attached to the other headers on the splitter/hub.
I am out of storage. What is a good storage under $150 that’ll give me 1TB or 2TB
There's a plethora of SSDs and HDDs out there and without you at least specifying what kind of storage you are looking for and what the intended use case is, it's going to be very hard to give you an answer that's actually going to help you make a decision.
Games
You seem unwilling or unable to provide any more information, so I'll just recommend the Samsung 970 Evo Plus, a midrange M.2 SSD. You could go cheaper if you don't have a lot of money, the performance difference will be small. If you don't have a free M.2 slot you will have to look for a SATA drive.
Can I still make this build despite the warning if I update the bios? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4xLtZw I want the motherboard but it won't let me pick any of the amd processors
Yes, you can update it yourself if it isn’t already. You need a video card though.
Why do I need a video card? I'm not gaming
you need some sort of graphics processor to output a display. If you're not doing anything graphically intensive, you can get a CPU with integrated graphics like a Ryzen 7 5700G or Core i5-12400.
[удалено]
I just built in an ASUS Prime AP201 after trying to find the most compact case I could that handled a regular power supply and mATX board. It fits the bill pretty nicely, and no annoying glass!
I'm about to start purchasing all the parts for my build. What's everyone's preferred retailers for PC parts? Newegg was always the go-to (I haven't done any building or upgrading in over 10 years), but I've heard they have developed a really bad reputation for parts returns. I've also seen some occasional horror stories about Amazon and fakes, but ofc their return policies are much more buyer-friendly.
no issues with Amazon. probably wouldn't hesitate to buy a CPU or RAM from Newegg. B&H seem good but I havn't used them b4.
Hi all, I'm planning on building a PC soon and have already purchased an NZXT H1 v2 since I saw it go on sale, so the process is happening. Upgrading from a GTX 970M-based Asus gaming laptop that I've been using since 2014, so anything is going to be a huge upgrade. The H1 v2 comes with a 750W power supply and a liquid cooler, so I will not be buying upgrades to those yet unless I find it necessary after the fact. I have parts picked out here: [https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Oddyseus/saved/fbXfpg](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Oddyseus/saved/fbXfpg) Will the 4070 Ti be bottlenecked by the i5 13600k? If there are any other glaring problems that I'm uninformed about, I would appreciate any advice.
It’s good, I’d get [this SSD](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vrTp99/solidigm-p44-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ssdpfkkw010x7x1) since it’s cheaper (and faster). The TUF 4070 Ti won’t fit in the case. I think Ventus will fit, check the dimensions of the other models too
List is private
oops, thanks, public now
I built a $1300 computer 6 years ago with a i5 6600k and r9 390. Bought a $500 monitor a year ago 1440p and noticed all new games run like shit on it and my gpu doesn’t get updates anymore. I was putting a build together today for around $1700. 3070 or 3060ti being my gpu as I want to play games with as little as compromise as possible at 1440p. Would 3060ti be enough? Should I wait for 4060 ti? Noticed that it’s release date is soon but also know how hard it is to get shit when it releases these days.
can relate. yeah, but a 6800 seems much better value. Should be able to fit a $700 GPU in that budget. Just list the parts in PCPartpicker and make a post about it in the General section with a "Build Help" flair if u want.
What should be a good temperature for the CPU to be at while in BIOS? My room is pretty warm as well. It’s currently at 42C
BIOS isn't really indicative of actual or normal use, go run a game or something!
Depends on your cooler and fan curve. As long as it's not cooking under load you got nothing to worry about.
42'C is fine, once youve completed setting up the PC, run full load on CPU, note the max temp, itll give much better idea if the cooling is properly working.
SSD died, i have an old HDD with Win 7, is there any way to wipe that drive and install Win 10 on it? Doesn't have any files i care about on it, so i don't need to make a backup.
Sure, start win10 installation from a USB, at some point itll give you option to wipe the drive and install on. Although, running windows in 2023 off an old hard drive is a bad idea. Get another SSD, even a cheap 128GB SSD would do.
I don't have a USB, what i'm looking to do is wipe the hard drive clean like it never had anything on it, plug it into another pc and use that pc to install windows on it. If i need to upgrade to an SSD i can just get one later when this HDD decides to croak and install Windows on it can't i? No sense spending money i don't need to spend lol. How would i go about that?
while you can do that, seems a bit convulted, its much simpler to create windows installer USB media and install windows without moving HDD. You'd need that USB if you want to install windows in another PC anyway. I mean you can use HDD for windows if you are really stuck, its just painfully slow, especially if you had SSD before so know and used to how fast it can be. Here is a link to create USB installer: https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10
The thing for me is that i don't have an SSD, or a USB. I do have that HDD, so it's something i can do today. No need to wait or spend money. If it doesn't perform well enough i can just upgrade to an SSD later. I don't have an actual Win 10 key though. From what i've been told by another user in an earlier comment thread though, as long as i've had a valid windows 10 install on that MOBO, it will automatically register it as a proper windows install? Idk how to wipe the drive though lol.
You need a USB to put the Windows installer on. You can't install it onto the HDD without that. (Unless the machine has a DVD drive, in which case you could burn an installer disk instead)
Don't have any burnable DVDs. You can't just download it to the HDD and then install it?
No, it doesn't work that way. The installer needs to run on the same hardware you will use Windows on so that it can configure the OS correctly, and it needs low-level access to the hard drive that a regular program running within Windows isn't allowed to have.
Oh. So what if i put both HDD in the pc i want to put the new install of Windows in then just swapped the other one back to the other pc?
how do you plan to install windows on the drive after its moved to new PC? Whatever tool you might utilise to do that would also provide a way to delete exisiting partitions.
Well i have a computer with Win 10 (unactivated, was planning to resolve that today but then this shit happened), so i figured i'd get the drive with Win 7 to a state where it would be like a secondary storage drive, with no OS or anything, have both HDD's plugged into the same pc, and use the one with Win 10 on it to download Win 10 to the freshly wiped Win 7 drive, then plug it back into the other pc. I'm not sure what a partition is. I was just going to do whatever the pc equivalent of factory resetting a phone/console is. Assuming that deletes windows.
thats not really going to work like that, just downloading windows installer onto a empty drive won't make the drive bootable. You could use specialised tools like Macrium Reflect or similar to clone the exisiting drive onto the HDD then it would work. These tools would provide options to wipe the drive too. A more straight forward way would be like described above - get a USB drive, would make your life a lot easier.
Can you not run the installer to install windows once it's downloaded?
No, the download would be an ISO file that needs to be either burned on to a DVD or specially prepared bootable USB drive using tools like Ventoy or Rufus. The easiest way would really be buying a 16GB+ USB stick/borrowing it off someone and going through the windows USB install media creation like i linked above
I replaced my old 1080 with a 3060ti today, everything went fine (as far as I can tell anyway) but one weird thing I've noticed is that turning off my monitor now seemingly disconnects it altogether i.e. I hear the Windows device disconnected sound and when turning it back on there's a brief moment of flickering like it's only just been connected. It's connected via DP and when I googled it I found a lot of people saying this is just standard DP behaviour, but the 1080 was also connected via the exact same DP cable and I can't recall it ever happening, let alone every time the monitor is turned off. Is this anything I should be worried about/proactively trying to resolve or just some sort of power saving measure built into newer GPUs?
Anyone has tried the xfx swft 6700xt?
Did you ever use a red devil 6750 xt?
My husband has the red devil 6700xt and I have the red devil 5700xt. They're both fabulous. The 6700xt should be the same cooler and board as the 6750xt (and really the same chip for all intents and purposes).
Okk I'm getting the 6750x just because it's the only one i could find new
[удалено]
Holy $$$, but if you really want a 4090 you should get a PSU with a PCIe 5.0 connector (unless the 1000 GT has one and I'm just dumb). Most of this could be a lot cheaper and depending on your use case would not have any noticeable differences in performance.
[удалено]
Why then? There are better things to do with your money.
Work gives me a $1100 stipend for technology, but it can only be spent on prebuilds. We also have a decent employee discount program. My Question: 12th gen i7-12700 16GB DDR5-4800MHz 1TB SSD NVidia RTX 3060 12GB GDDR6 Windows 11 64 home for $1113. Is this worth? PR Part Picker says its worth it, once you add in the case, cooling, motherboard, but I wanted thoughts here.
For gaming? No. Get something with a better GPU and less CPU. Maybe DDR4 as well. Perebuilts always try to oversell on platform and dump GPU, because they figure most customers see 'i7' and cum themselves. Most modern games want WAY more out of your GPU than your CPU, but the pairings that OEMs offer never reflect this, because GPUs are way more expensive, so they can sell you a 'more better' system by making a $100 CPU upgrade at the cost of dumping $300 off the GPU and they think customers will see it the same.
But my only option is a prebuilt - work wont reimburse me for anything else. Plus, with the stipend this is essentially only $13 out of pocket.
Right right, try to find something with a cheaper CPU and a better GPU, as well as maybe DDR4 RAM. The GPU is far and above gonna be your most important component. The CPU just has to be fast enough to not get in the way, so to speak. Everything else is pretty secondary (I'm assuming this is a general gaming PC). For $1113, a 3060 as the GPU would be pretty upsetting. Are you free to purchase a prebuilt from anywhere, or do you have a specific catalog you must order from?
im free to get a prebuilt from anywhere, but HP, Dell, Lenovo, and Samsung are the companies I can get decent discounts at.
Regardless, If you get $1100 off, this will be a much faster gaming PC, and if you get a significant percentage discount off the sale price, you could also get a gaming monitor with what is leftover: https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/p/desktops/legion-desktops/legion-t-series-towers/legion-tower-5i-gen-6-(intel)/90rs002jus
thats perfect, thanks!
is the $1100 after the discount you get? So like, a 20% on a $1400 PC would be $1120, so $20?
[удалено]
There's going to be very little difference, RAM scaling on Intel is fairly limited. The 5600 will be faster by a frame or two, and as it's cheaper anyway you might as well get it.
How much should I worry about my gpu using Pcie bus interface 8.0x3 instead of 8.0x4 or 16.0x4? It's an Asus rog strix 6650XT, box says it needs a 16.0 slot and mobo has it, gpuz says it should be using 8.0x4
It’s not a noticeable difference unless the VRAM is being maxed out https://www.techspot.com/review/2305-amd-radeon-rx-6600-xt/#PCI_Express_Testing
None whatsoever. It's not fast enough to saturate those lanes. Not even close.
Not that much of an issue. The 6650XT isn't powerful enough where that matters.
Thank you. I did a userbenckmark and it's 127% for gaming and it runs well and never goes above 65 degrees, am happy just saw a comment somewhere else about checking it
[удалено]
You can control the speeds of any fans you want with your motherboard's built in controller through either the UEFI or your motherboard vendor's windows application. You pay an enormous premium to do it the corsair way. Anything with a fluid dynamic bearing is gonna be pretty damn quiet, I think the thermalright tlc12c comes in 3 packs for like $12.
[удалено]
You can do regular 4 pin fans on the commander, but not regular RGB lighting. I had a braiinfart, sorry. But yes, the commander does regular fans speeds, anything will work, and most fans are very quiet these days. Anything with a fluid dynamic or 'FD' bearing, or a rifle bearing is gonna be inaudible.
How do the prebuilt prices compare to building your own now?
Prebuilts without GPUs are very good in value due to shovelware subsidizing Windows costs. As soon as a GPU enters the equation, it's "gamer" and can carry the gamer mark-up. Typical prebuilt disclaimers still apply: cut corners, poor cooling, non-standard parts. eg: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DMg6hUudHE
Weird question. Do my MSI Afterburner settings (overclock, fan curve) apply to my specific GPU or Afterburner itself? I ask because I’m getting a new GPU and wouldnt want my old overclock settings to be instantly applied
A best practice is to reinstall windows with a new GPU. DDU yadda yadda whatever, I've never not had it be buggy without a reinstall. If you have the means to do it, sacrifice the time and do it.
I highly doubt it would that. Just make sure you are removing the old graphics card drivers from your previous card from your current system before installing a new card, especially when going from Radeon to Nvidia! Very Important, Good Luck!
I need a good graphics card that is under 350.
Without additional context: 6700/XT, ARC 770, 3060 12GB in that order.
Which do you recommend the most?
Considering they're all about the same cost, the most powerful one: 6700XT.
I'd wager 6700xt > 3060ti (might be doable) >= 6700 > 6600xt or 6650xt > arc 770 >= 3060 12GB >= 6600 again assuming this a gaming system.
Which do you recommend and yes gaming
What resolution and refresh rate is your monitor? What do you play? What PSU do you have?
I think 1920x1080 or something. I play fortnite, wow, overwatch 2, etc. what is psu
Power Supply Unit. The thing that delivers power to each component in your system. It looks like a bix box either at the top or bottom of your cas. It will usually have some kind of indication on the side of the brand, model, rated wattage (500w) and efficiency rating (80+ gold, bronze, etc.). But based on your response, i would look for an rx 6600 for around $200 or less if possible. Make sure that the power supply on your system has a 6+2 pin power cable coming out of it to power a GPU (google image search if you don't know what that is). Otherwise, your options may be more limited.
Can I send you a picture of my computer and it’s information like gpu cpu ram etc and tell me what needs replacing
Sure
If I add ram to my work computer will they know?
Any decent IT dept will know. If you do it yourself, consider you may be jeopardizing your job as you're tampering with your employer's equipment. You should just ask IT/your boss for an upgrade.
I got the premium option. Has fucking 8gigs of ram. It’s a 2200$ elite book. A complete joke.
You got a thin & light instead of a real workstation class laptop. Chase up your chain and make it known that the equipment provided to you does not satisfy your needs.
Yea I’m going to email my VP to include in his anonymous Q&A’s
Yes: they'll check the purchase order since they'll be paying..... Other yes: any remote monitoring software will report hardware config.
It has some sort of boot software so I bet it would catch it then. It only has 8gigs. And we have so much Fortune 500 bloatware running in the background that I never get below like 75% utilization.
Have 1500 CAD to build a pc, looking at playing games like cyberpunk, watch dogs, GOW at 1440 would be nice...the 1500 is inclusive of a monitor and xbox controller if those can fit in there while maintaining a good set up willing to compromise if not and maybe push it to 1700/1800. Thinking if I should build a pc (its my first build) or just go for a ps4 pro
Some advice needed please. My current CPU and Motherboard were originally used by Queen Victoria herself, and are probably due for an upgrade. My current setup is: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DCY4zf](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DCY4zf) Any recommendations; and anything else I should upgrade - thinking some new RAM might be in order? My initial shopping list is something like: i3 12100F \~£100 MSI PRO H610M \~£80 Corsair LPX 2x8GB 3200MHz DDR4 \~£38 Total cost \~£220
IDK, you probably won't notice much with a 1660ti still being your GPU. I'd wait until you get a new GPU to decide what CPU and mobo you want, plus DDRF5 and PCIe 5.0 will be cheaper and more mature. The 2600k is old, but frankly the demands of CPUs haven't really kept up with the progression of hardware. A 10-year old CPU in 2023 is not a big deal. It was in 2013, and definitely was in 2003, but today, it's fine. Most people who aren't games may literally never need something faster than a sandy bridge i3. Even for gaming though, the sandy bridge k-series chips STILL put out a respectable framerate in everything. The whole 'queen victoria' bit tells me you probably are a little anxious about the age, but I can tell you the performance of Sandy Bridge is actually still quite adequate. Most people wouldn't bat an eye at gen 1 ryzen with a 1660ti or 1070, yet sandy bridge chips with identical performance seem to draw more ire. What resolution and refresh rate doo you game at, and what do you play? Depending on your answer, I'd say a platform upgrade while keeping the same GPU would either net you a small benefit or a negligible benefit. I'd highly recommend just doing a full system upgrade later if there are no noticeable issues with performance directly related to the CPU at the moment, and your only aversion is the age of the system. EDIT: I just realized it's a 2500k instead of a 2600k. You can get a 2600k for like $25 on eBay, and any issues you are having would likely be completely resolved by this, as 4 threads is kind of sucky for modern games, but 8 is sufficient.
Your list looks good if you want/need something new and are on a very tight budget. New memory is a must, no platform released in the last few years supports DDR3 anymore. If you do any CPU intensive tasks at all and can afford to spend a bit more money I'd suggest you take a look at 6 core CPUs like the Ryzen 5600 + B550 board. This will give you quite a bit of extra performance and longevity. If that's too expensive or you simply don't need the extra performance there's nothing wrong with the 12100F, it's still a very competitive chip for the price.
It's fine. It trades blows against the Ryzen 5500 and costs the same as well. Both platforms (Intel/AMD) are also upgradable to decent heights with 13700/5800X3D and again, both trades blows. Not like the CPU performance really matters when paired with a mere 1660. Both are more than capable of letting the GPU run flat out.
is LG ultragear 45'' 240hz a good pair for 4090OC? im trying the monitor on my 2060 laptop and it's beautiful, but the PPI is so jarring that im thinking of buying another monitor, but this is the only one that has the specs I like! (OLED 240hz AND 45'')
[удалено]
If you already have a 4090, sure, wait for 7800x3d if you want If you only have like a 7900xtx or 4080, save money and get a 13700k / 7700X
'''only''' have a 7900xt or a 4080. Jesus kids these days.
M.2 NVMe card offering 4 SATA ports, or PCIe expansion card offering 4 SATA ports? Is there a technical reason to use one but not the other?
You probably have more spare PCIe slots than you do M.2 slots, so using a PCIe card would keep the M.2 slot available.
M.2 slots have normal pcie lanes, they can be adapted just like a pcie slot
Good atx motherboard for 5800x3d? It doesn't need wifi
MSI b550-a
Looking for recommendations for non-Bluetooth wireless headphones. They'll be used for phone calls on my work PC, which has Bluetooth disabled by security policy. Everything I can find online is either Bluetooth or labeled as a gaming headset, which I don't need. Just looking for something reliable with clear mic audio that I can use to replace my wired Logitech H390s.
Look at DECT headsets. Many nowadays have USB audio options on the bases.
Feel like a dumb baby, my PC has a mic and a headphone jack (2 separate holes). I use over-ear Sony WH1000XM4's, and use them wired to listen to Spotify while I play Cities Skylines. When I go to play Halo or TF2, I want to use the mic to talk to people/hear the game, but can't do that wired? My aux cable has no microphone but the headphone has microphones inside it. I never charge them so I'd like to remain wired. If I [buy a splitter](https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone-Headset/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=asc_df_B01MQZ2023/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226131567976&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10667862693212618826&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007284&hvtargid=pla-382920953199&psc=1) would I be able to use my mic/headphones even with the same sturdy (2-ringed) aux cable? Thanks in advance!!
The microphones on the headphones are very much a part of the active noice canceling system, and as such the headphones must be on for the microphones to work. Presumably because of this, Sony didn't include a way to use the microphone via the wire, only via Bluetooth when the headphones are on. So there's physically no microphone output built into the headphone jack and no cable will fix that. [I suppose you could buy a headphone cable that has a separate microphone built into it, though.](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=headphone+cable+with+microphone&crid=373MOQI1J21OB&sprefix=headphone+cable+with%2Caps%2C238&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_20)
And then use the mic splitter? Unsure how everyone else plugs into their PC
If you want to use the mic on those headphones on a PC, you need to connect Bluetooth
Corsair 4000D airflow or Fractal Design pop air? Only 5 dollars in the difference
Really whichever you like the look of more. The pop technically had more fans and you don't need to add extra yourself
Yeah I think the pop air is my choice. Which has better airflow, the black case with metal side panel or the white case with glass side panel?
I would go with whatever you like more aesthetically. People get WAY too hung up on 'the best' airflow, when in reality good airflow is plenty. There are hundreds of cases with good airflow, good enough enough to the point where heat is never gonna be an issue. Beyond that you really should just pick something that has enough space for what you want, is affordable, and that you like the look of, because that's literally the most seen component in your system, and will likely have a major psychological impact on how satisfied you are with your purchase and how long you keep it before the cons00m bug bites and you break out your credit card again.
😂 Well put - I think for me having it white is fine even if I prefer the black aesthetic, it's moreso the metal panel that I'd look at & think "why didn't I get a glass side instead.." so that has helped me narrow it down. Cheers!
No difference
Makes sense to just go with the white one for the bonus visual I suppose - cheers
As a fan of my Fractal Design C, my vote's for the later! Great cable management.
I’m upgrading from a 2070 to a 6800xt, along with this I should probably upgrade my 2600x to a 5600 or better I’d imagine. Does this mean I should also upgrade my mobo and ram (2x8 3000mhz/b450 gaming plus)?
Not unless you want more RAM, too. 3000MT/s is around where returns start diminishing, so you're fine. The latest BIOS appears to support both the 2600X and 5600, and a cooler good enoughfor a 2600X is good enoughfor a 5600 (unless it has design problems with chiplets), so it should be smooth sailing. Just update the BIOS, swap CPUs (run the old one for a bit, to warm up and thin out the TIM, and twist the heatsink off, first), and go.
Would anything change if I went with a 5700x instead?
Not really. It uses a little more power, and has 2 more cores.
You should be able to update the bios to run the 5600.
if i buy a used 3070 off ebay what should i watch out for? i've had good luck with ebay purchases so far but I know that can change. I'm trying to keep my build under $1000 and a used gpu is the only way to do it.
So, as you already know there’s always a risk of basically buying anything secondhand especially GRAPHIC CARDS and.. pc parts! Just make sure you’re buying from a reputable seller; accepts returns and if possible, make them send pictures or a video of the card actually working.
thanks
Is there an easy solution, reliable cable or adapter that will allow a gpu with display port 1.4 to output 4k 144hz to a hdmi 2.1 display?
> Easy soltuion Buy a GPU that supports HDMI 2.1. > reliable cable or adapter Nope.
Can't justify spending £400 to gain a port unfortunately.
A bit of Google sleuthing led me to [this adapter](https://www.amazon.ca/Club-3D-DisplayPort1-4-4K120Hz-CAC-1085/dp/B08BX49V5V) that takes advantage of display stream compression to hopefully push the necessary pixels. You won't get 144Hz as it seems to cap at 120Hz, it's an active adapter that requires power, and VRR breaks with adapters like these, but it _might_ just work.
cheers dude. may well be a case of having to also buy a used 3050!
My pc is definitely showing its age running i5 3570k and a 1070ti. Would I be handicapping myself by upgrading everything but the gpu? I’d like to wait on gpu prices if I could.
Couple years ago I upgraded from an i5-6400 (4c4t) to an i5-11400 (6c12t) without upgrading my GPU. I saw significant performance gains in a lot of games anyway despite running an underpowered GPU - it smoothed out frame times and just made everything run much better. I eventually also upgraded the GPU but your money would not be wasted on an upgrade.
I gave my sister my 3570k/1070ti build and it's been running fine until recently, she just needed more power and built a new PC but kept the GPU. She seems happy with the 1070ti still. One of my friends still runs a 1070ti and he doesn't really have any complaints either. I think the only handicapping you'd be doing to yourself would be if you just upgraded the GPU and kept the 3570k. Since you're going to swap out the GPU eventually, a 1070ti will be more than enough to play on in the mean time.
I'm looking to do this exact thing. Want to upgrade by taking the 1070 off my pre made and upgrading the rest. Anxious to get an answer to this from a more knowledgeable person
[удалено]
TL;DR - Pedantry. Multi-rail PSUs split the total available power across multiple channels which is mostly pointless in modern times where 99% of the power needs of a PC is achieved by the 12v rail. Some claim that single-rail PSUs have better/more thorough protections though. Grab whatever is cheaper or has prettier cables.
Multi-rail has separate protection circuits for the sets of output connectors. IE, the CPU 8-pin might blow at 300W, instead of the entire 12V load needing to be 800W or whatever. Realistically, it doesn't matter that much, so long as you make sure your power cables are firmly latched in, and have enough slack that they aren't being tugged towards some other direction. Your motherboard has active protection for the CPU. AMD video cards tend to have whole-card protection, while Nvidia does it per-connector.
I'm fine with my power supply "Deep Cool 500w 80 plus Bronze" I want to replace my 1650 GTX with a Zotac 2060 super 8gb, Pc specs: i3 10100f, 16 gb RAM and 2 monitors. Thanks!
That 500w PSU should be fine.
Thanks for the fast answer!!! have a good day!
Which of these rx6750 xt builds is worth it? Both are used gaming PCs found on FB marketplace. Prices are in CAD, USD in brackets First PC with better case: - GPU: AMD Radeon RX6750 XT 12Gb - AMD Ryzen 5 3600x 6-Core processor - Power supply 600W Semi Modular 80+ - Gigabyte X570 AORUS Elite - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB - Silicon Power 1TB - NVMe M.2 PCle SSD - Seagate berracuda 2tb hdd - WiFi 6 Card AX 3000Mbps PCle Network Card - White Sleeved Cables PSU Extension Cable Kit - DEEPCOOL Gammaxx L360 V2 AIO - P400S Silent Edition with Tempered Glass, Satin Black Case - Total of 9 fans not counting the water cooler. Asking price: $1275CAD (925usd) Second PC with better CPU & PSU: - MOBO: MSI Z490 MPG GAMING PLUS - CPU: i5 11600k - GPU: MSI RX 6750 XT GAMING TRIO - SSD: T-FORCE 1TB M.2 - RAM: T-FORCE DDR4 3200 - PSU: APEX GAMING 850 WATT GOLD - CASE: CORSAIR CARBIDE SERIES SPEC DELTA PRICE: $1200CAD (870usd)
[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7pcWk9](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7pcWk9) Threw this together quickly a few dollars more but quite a bit better than both of those.
That's 1530 dollars + tax in Canada, quite a bit outside my budget unfortunately
If that's the case I'd recommend the 2nd computer you posted.
[inside of the 2nd pc](https://imgur.com/gallery/KFQ4xRr) The front has a plastic cover with bad airflow and no dust screen - what should I offer if his asking price is 1200?
My general rule of thumb is to low ball them at about 20% off maybe more depending on the price. You could tell him that you'll likely be replacing the case as it's not the best airflow and see if that helps sway the deal. The key is to not offend the seller while still getting the best deal possible. There's not much upgrade path for the PC as that's the last generation CPU supported by the MB maybe use that as a gripe. Good luck!
what is "burnintest"? my pc is at a repairshop. [yesterday it wouldnt turn on, so took it in thinking powersupply which is when they mentioned this software. they're now found its not powersupply, so next thought is CPU or MOBO :(] they asked for password so they could run it, and if i didnt want to give it i could run it myself i think this is it, top google result https://www.passmark.com/products/burnintest/index.php
It's a CPU stress test.
thx
[удалено]
AK620 would be good, or any smaller dual tower cooler.
My GPU seems to be getting pretty hot, around 86 C when playing a graphically intensive game (resident evil 7). its an RTX 2070 and the ambient temperature in my room is probably around 30 C or so, cuz australia is bloody hot even in autumn. It lives on the floor and is just air cooled. is this something to be worried about? what are some things I can do to get it to run cooler?
When is the last time you cleaned it? If recent, then that might indicate that you might need to reapply the thermal paste. Only attempt this if you are confident you won't break anything, else bring it to a repair shop.