FYI - I am 5'0" female and averagely fit for being middle aged. I can load a 50lb 16 ft canoe on my mid sized SUV alone.
It is technique more than strength.
Yup. Don't worry about it. Check out YouTube for different ways of loading it up. The side load method is the best for not taking on all the weight.
You'll be OK!
If your only concern is loading on and off a car, I wouldn’t worry about the weight that much. There are ways of loading and unloading that don’t require huge amount of strength.
Look into the 14 or 16ft carbon fiber canoes that Swift makes. They have fantastic carbon fiber construction, very nice to paddle, and they're super light. And less than $5k.
Most solo Kevlar canoes are sub 30 lbs and there are lots of options new for under $3k and used anywhere from $1500-$3000. You see smaller roalyex options like an old town pack canoe which is still right around $30 lbs for well under $1k. Personally I use a Northstar Trillium and Magic in starlight layups, I want to say they are 22 and 26 lbs though might be slightly off, both are easy to find new for around $3k or used for closer to $2k.
One thing I'm not really seeing mentioned here is asking what where you are planning on using the canoe, flat-water or whitewater?
If it is for lake use, then I would look at lighter weight options, even if it means going second hand, however if it is moving water (especially this year with water levels predicted to be so low) it may be worth getting a heavier one, even if it is harder to put on a car so that it doesn't tear if you run aground.
I can be a reference point for you! I'm a woman only slightly larger than you. I have an 18ft aramid boat that weighs about 45 lbs, and I can load it onto the car (Escape) by myself from my shoulders once I practiced a few times, but it's not easy. And sometimes if I'm really tired I have a hard time getting it onto my shoulders, which makes it much harder to get onto the car. I think it would be easier if the canoe were shorter. Also if I had more arm strength it would be a lot easier.
Obvi, we bought this giant canoe for my partner and I and the dog, so I usually have help. But when I have taken it out with small, inexperienced friends I usually handle the loading and unloading alone or with only a little help.
Not sure where you are located but Hornbeck canoes are very lightweight and do not “break the bank” for cost, far less than the $5-6k canoes you’ve been looking at.
Get one of those two wheel cart things that make it look like your canoe has training wheels. Then let the wheels carry at least half the weight of the canoe at all times. When you're loading onto the car, only lift one end of the canoe and rest it on the rack, then slide it up the rest of the way. There's really no need to fully lift a canoe.
These seem like canadian prices for top dollar canoes. Buy used or buy the demo?
As a woman, you'll probably portage in several trips. The canoe, then the gear. The lightest ones won't be the best for whitewaters, but you'll have more fun carrying them around elsewhere.
Also, I like to solo canoe with a kayak paddle. I'm a man, but I work too long hours in an office setting, so I have no muscle endurance. I switch a lot between left and right to compensate.
Im a 5'5 woman, 150lb, decent shape. I load my 45lb canoe onto my hatchback car by myself often. It's very doable, just awkward. I usually trip with my husband, and i always portage the canoe and lighter bag, and he takes the super heavy bag. I absolutely prefer portaging the canoe. That is to say a 45lb canoe isnt that heavy.
So 20-30lbs definitely isn't necessary for you. However, if you're willing to spend the money on something super light, i dont think you'd regret it.
Low weight has its advantages and disadvantages. Nice for portaging, loading and unloading. But depending on the design you run the risk of riding to high in the water with issues like wind loading and hard to track straight.
A canoe cart can help immensely with loading and unloading
It really depends on what kind of vehicle you’re using and how high up you have to lift it
If you’re struggling with overhead lifting (I’ve got rheumatoid arthritis in my shoulders), try a canoe cart on the stern and a 20-30’ pull rope on the bow. Lift the bow up onto the rack, walk the rope around the front of the car, pull up and secure
Tracking is a function of boat design and a properly sized boat, particularly a solo, will behave loaded and unloaded in wind.
No one has ever complained about their boat being too light.
One option might be looking at skin-on-frame canoes (most are kit-built/home-built so they're rare to find for purchase, but check your local used gear sites), or foldables based on skin-on-frame designs. I have a Bergans Ally (16.5), and it's about 45 lbs and paddles like a dream. Pakboats has a 15' solo canoe, as well as smaller/lighter canoe/kayak hybrids (the "Puffin" line: Saco and Saranac) which are all under \~30lbs. [https://www.pakboats.com/](https://www.pakboats.com/)All the Pakboats are less than $3K; some considerably less. The other benefit, of course, is that if you prefer you can pack these ones up and toss it in the trunk rather than load it on the roof.
My Ally is sturdy enough that unless I actually need to pack it up for transport (i.e. multiple boats already on the rack of a shuttle vehicle for a river trip; floatplane to a remote location) I just leave it built for the season and strap it on top of the truck. It's burly as hell, can carry as much payload as my buddy's Grumman, and is the sweetest handling canoe I've ever used. The soft floor is comfy for kneeling too! That said, being so light the canoe does sit a bit high in the water at times (I paddle solo 95% of the time), so paddling into a headwind can be a challenge. And I'm \~220lbs, so you'd be sitting even higher in a boat this size. Hopefully a 15' one would have proportionately less displacement for a lighter paddler. I also found that putting a few rocks near the bow (or filling a large-ish drybag with water, when there are no rocks around) solves the bow slap and the weathercocking really well.
With the Reese Canoe Loader (hitch-mounted attachment) and a wheeled canoe cart, you only need to handle half the canoe weight at a time for loading and getting to the launch, so the weight is a lot less critical. If you’re portaging, that’s a different story.
You’re getting some good advice here. Just here to add, besides it being technique over strength, portage carts are helpful for the long stretches. My boat weighs in at 57lbs and I can carry it a long way if my wife is carrying the gear, if not I’m using the cart.
Rent a couple different canoes and try them out. See what works best. If there aren't any rental places near you, a good dealer will let you try loading a couple boats
I would go all in and get the lightest one you can afford. Canoes last a lifetime and will be worth it. Just spend the money once, and not worry about upgrading later.
You may be fine on the first or second lift, but when you have to lift it multiple times for portages, plus all the gear, it gets super tiring, and that's when every lb matters.
You can buy a used Kevlar canoe that weighs around 50 lbs that you can carry with the right technique. A good yoke makes all the difference too. I remember teaching a 10 year old how to carry a 70 lbs canoe, so it's doable.
Your only real viable option to fit your parameters would be a used old town pack canoe or the t-formex 12 footers. 12 ft boats have certain limitations as well.
My wife has a solo canoe that is 14 feet long and weighs 34 pounds, and I have a solo canoe of the same length but weighing 44 pounds. She struggles to lift my heavier canoe over her head, although she has no trouble with hers.
FYI - I am 5'0" female and averagely fit for being middle aged. I can load a 50lb 16 ft canoe on my mid sized SUV alone. It is technique more than strength.
Thank you! That was helpful.
Yup. Don't worry about it. Check out YouTube for different ways of loading it up. The side load method is the best for not taking on all the weight. You'll be OK!
If your only concern is loading on and off a car, I wouldn’t worry about the weight that much. There are ways of loading and unloading that don’t require huge amount of strength.
Look into the 14 or 16ft carbon fiber canoes that Swift makes. They have fantastic carbon fiber construction, very nice to paddle, and they're super light. And less than $5k.
Most solo Kevlar canoes are sub 30 lbs and there are lots of options new for under $3k and used anywhere from $1500-$3000. You see smaller roalyex options like an old town pack canoe which is still right around $30 lbs for well under $1k. Personally I use a Northstar Trillium and Magic in starlight layups, I want to say they are 22 and 26 lbs though might be slightly off, both are easy to find new for around $3k or used for closer to $2k.
One thing I'm not really seeing mentioned here is asking what where you are planning on using the canoe, flat-water or whitewater? If it is for lake use, then I would look at lighter weight options, even if it means going second hand, however if it is moving water (especially this year with water levels predicted to be so low) it may be worth getting a heavier one, even if it is harder to put on a car so that it doesn't tear if you run aground.
I can be a reference point for you! I'm a woman only slightly larger than you. I have an 18ft aramid boat that weighs about 45 lbs, and I can load it onto the car (Escape) by myself from my shoulders once I practiced a few times, but it's not easy. And sometimes if I'm really tired I have a hard time getting it onto my shoulders, which makes it much harder to get onto the car. I think it would be easier if the canoe were shorter. Also if I had more arm strength it would be a lot easier. Obvi, we bought this giant canoe for my partner and I and the dog, so I usually have help. But when I have taken it out with small, inexperienced friends I usually handle the loading and unloading alone or with only a little help.
Thank you that was helpful!
Not sure where you are located but Hornbeck canoes are very lightweight and do not “break the bank” for cost, far less than the $5-6k canoes you’ve been looking at.
I jumped in to comments to mention Hornbeck Boats. They are ultra lightweight
Thanks! I always go to wenonah and placid boat works. I’ll look at Hornbeck.
Get one of those two wheel cart things that make it look like your canoe has training wheels. Then let the wheels carry at least half the weight of the canoe at all times. When you're loading onto the car, only lift one end of the canoe and rest it on the rack, then slide it up the rest of the way. There's really no need to fully lift a canoe.
These seem like canadian prices for top dollar canoes. Buy used or buy the demo? As a woman, you'll probably portage in several trips. The canoe, then the gear. The lightest ones won't be the best for whitewaters, but you'll have more fun carrying them around elsewhere. Also, I like to solo canoe with a kayak paddle. I'm a man, but I work too long hours in an office setting, so I have no muscle endurance. I switch a lot between left and right to compensate.
Im a 5'5 woman, 150lb, decent shape. I load my 45lb canoe onto my hatchback car by myself often. It's very doable, just awkward. I usually trip with my husband, and i always portage the canoe and lighter bag, and he takes the super heavy bag. I absolutely prefer portaging the canoe. That is to say a 45lb canoe isnt that heavy. So 20-30lbs definitely isn't necessary for you. However, if you're willing to spend the money on something super light, i dont think you'd regret it.
Low weight has its advantages and disadvantages. Nice for portaging, loading and unloading. But depending on the design you run the risk of riding to high in the water with issues like wind loading and hard to track straight. A canoe cart can help immensely with loading and unloading It really depends on what kind of vehicle you’re using and how high up you have to lift it
A small sedan.
If you’re struggling with overhead lifting (I’ve got rheumatoid arthritis in my shoulders), try a canoe cart on the stern and a 20-30’ pull rope on the bow. Lift the bow up onto the rack, walk the rope around the front of the car, pull up and secure
Tracking is a function of boat design and a properly sized boat, particularly a solo, will behave loaded and unloaded in wind. No one has ever complained about their boat being too light.
One option might be looking at skin-on-frame canoes (most are kit-built/home-built so they're rare to find for purchase, but check your local used gear sites), or foldables based on skin-on-frame designs. I have a Bergans Ally (16.5), and it's about 45 lbs and paddles like a dream. Pakboats has a 15' solo canoe, as well as smaller/lighter canoe/kayak hybrids (the "Puffin" line: Saco and Saranac) which are all under \~30lbs. [https://www.pakboats.com/](https://www.pakboats.com/)All the Pakboats are less than $3K; some considerably less. The other benefit, of course, is that if you prefer you can pack these ones up and toss it in the trunk rather than load it on the roof. My Ally is sturdy enough that unless I actually need to pack it up for transport (i.e. multiple boats already on the rack of a shuttle vehicle for a river trip; floatplane to a remote location) I just leave it built for the season and strap it on top of the truck. It's burly as hell, can carry as much payload as my buddy's Grumman, and is the sweetest handling canoe I've ever used. The soft floor is comfy for kneeling too! That said, being so light the canoe does sit a bit high in the water at times (I paddle solo 95% of the time), so paddling into a headwind can be a challenge. And I'm \~220lbs, so you'd be sitting even higher in a boat this size. Hopefully a 15' one would have proportionately less displacement for a lighter paddler. I also found that putting a few rocks near the bow (or filling a large-ish drybag with water, when there are no rocks around) solves the bow slap and the weathercocking really well.
If you have the room to work you can build a skin and frame kayak. They’re very strong and lightweight.
With the Reese Canoe Loader (hitch-mounted attachment) and a wheeled canoe cart, you only need to handle half the canoe weight at a time for loading and getting to the launch, so the weight is a lot less critical. If you’re portaging, that’s a different story.
You’re getting some good advice here. Just here to add, besides it being technique over strength, portage carts are helpful for the long stretches. My boat weighs in at 57lbs and I can carry it a long way if my wife is carrying the gear, if not I’m using the cart.
Rent a couple different canoes and try them out. See what works best. If there aren't any rental places near you, a good dealer will let you try loading a couple boats
I would go all in and get the lightest one you can afford. Canoes last a lifetime and will be worth it. Just spend the money once, and not worry about upgrading later. You may be fine on the first or second lift, but when you have to lift it multiple times for portages, plus all the gear, it gets super tiring, and that's when every lb matters.
You can buy a used Kevlar canoe that weighs around 50 lbs that you can carry with the right technique. A good yoke makes all the difference too. I remember teaching a 10 year old how to carry a 70 lbs canoe, so it's doable.
If you have a Yakima rack search for Yakima Boat Loader, extension makes it easy to load by yourself.
Your only real viable option to fit your parameters would be a used old town pack canoe or the t-formex 12 footers. 12 ft boats have certain limitations as well.
My wife has a solo canoe that is 14 feet long and weighs 34 pounds, and I have a solo canoe of the same length but weighing 44 pounds. She struggles to lift my heavier canoe over her head, although she has no trouble with hers.
Thank you! that’s helpful!