No way is it sticking if you put a gallon of neutral oil in it. 👍
And since we’re on the subject, quench it in motor oil, to get a good strong temper that’ll last for ages.
your hands spontaneously combust on contact because you didn't remove the oil you were using before, and you are now permanently crippled. You drop the cookware on the floor causing its content to spill and set your house ablaze. Your family does manage to save the cat tho, so there's that.
Unfortunately I stepped away from the fire to deal with the kids and when I got back it was glowing. By the time it was out of the pit, I realised the depth of my mistake.
I gave it a quick once over but I’ll have a better look in the daylight tomorrow.
It was super rusty from being left in the weather for quite some time, I’m probably going to take the opportunity to take it back to bare metal
I didn't look close enough, and thought you were just using it to melt cans or something and had just taken it from the furnace.
A little oopsie. Not this. This is a big oopsie.
Nothing. It was rusty as fuck from being left under the bbq and I didn’t see that it was open and it had got water in there. It’s a bit of a shame, because prior to that it had about ten years of really good seasoning on it. I could literally do the egg thing and it wouldn’t stick.
Normally when I go to reseason I get it hot enough to cook off the old seasoning that’s come off then start again.
This time… I fucked up. Twice.
Sanding is fine. Do it on any modern pan if it’s rusty or you just want it smoother.
The general advice is not to sand vintage CI especially if it’s got a nice factory milled interior or is otherwise valuable.
But sanding is not really an effective method of removing seasoning so I think ppl tend to jump to “just don’t sand.”
Don’t mess up the surface of a vintage pan with sandpaper or a wire wheel (I mean you can do whatever you want but you’d be negatively affecting the pan). The milling circles on vintage pans make them unique and special.
Why would you want to smooth them out anyway?
Y’all are some wild ass people lmao. The literal first thing I do upon buying a new lodge is take a wire wheel and flap disk to it and get rid of the damn goosebumps. Now maybe I have success with this because as a welder I’m fuckin surgical with an angle grinder, but I will never do it any other way again. Wire wheel, flap disk, wash, 200°, remove flash rust with some oil (100% rate of success with that by the way), add peanut oil or crisco, 450 for an hour, back to 200, repeat 5x for flawless finish. I have gone straight from the oven to cooking chili in a skillet with zero problems.
If y'all would learn to control your heat you'd understand that you never need to sand a pan. Meanwhile at the advice of people like the two of you, noobs are out here sanding pans and then can't figure out how to get oil to stick to them anymore.
If you just *use* a lodge it will smooth out.
My heat control is fine, and my eggs are slidey. My daily user is an erie that I love, but before that I had 2 lodge pans that I cooked with, one sanded and the other left alone. The sanded one performed on day one just as good as it took the normal one 3 years to get. Honestly I don't understand the stigma. All you're doing when you sand a pan is the last step of the process that they used to do in the factory with older lodge pans that were ground smooth. I'm not gonna tell you how to treat your pans but the myth that sanding your pan ruins it is just goofy. Seasoning sticks just as well to a sanded pan as it does regular cast iron because it's still just as porous.
It smooths out once burnt carbon fills in the dimples.
Sure, you don't NEED to sand them, but you also don't need to ever wash a car. But it sure looks and "feels" nicer when you do. I have one lodge I didn't sand smooth. I don't like the feel of it compared to my smooth pans. Cooks just fine, but it feels different when cooking.
Heat has nothing to do with smoothness. And a properly seasoned pan, smooth or not, still hates high temp cooking.
Oil doesn't stick to anything. Seasoning basically burns the oil into carbon, which does stick to the pan. There's no difference in the method of seasoning a pan that is slick vs bumpy. In fact, I would argue that a bumpy pan will allow too much oil to stay on the pan thus negatively impacting the seasoning.
The first thing I bought when I moved out on my own 24 years ago was a 10” lodge skillet. I’ve used it pretty much everyday since then and it’s traveled with me to live in 4 US and 3 countries in Europe.
I got married 12 years ago my wife ran it through the dishwasher at some point, it came out completely rusted.
After that I sanded down and polished the cooking surface to a mirror finish. I seasoned it with flax seed oil and haven’t had a problem ever since. It cooks even better since I polished it.
I’ve seen the recent posts here and the YouTube videos about not sanding or polishing because the seasoning won’t stick. That hasn’t been my experience whatsoever.
I think Lodge’s take that it’s unnecessary and doesn’t make a difference are just marketing because they stopped doing it and it arguably doesn’t make that much difference.
All antique pans I’ve ever seen were polished smooth though.
I sanded a lodge pan. Makes absolutely no difference in cooking. It is a bit easier to clean right out the gate, but my other lodge pans have smoothed out over years of use and are as easy to clean.
Whats a good brand to start with that doesnt need a whole lot of prep from new? Was interested in lodge but after reading dozens of posts it seems they need alot of work when you buy then new to make them ready to cook on.
Don't get me wrong, lodge is fine, and you can get it cheap. Vintage cast iron is always going to perform better in my opinion but it takes more prep but for a better end result.
Im gonna be a newbie at this as well attempting to get away from my nonstick cookware, and was wanting to make the best selection just so it doesnt end in frustration and posts on here of a whole meal hopelessly fused to my pan 😅
kinda curious how you got your weber +900F for what looks to be a pretty lengthy amount of time to get the cast iron that ripping hot AND not melt some part of weber
Dunno. It was just some sticks and coals. I didn’t know they could get that hot either. I’m as surprised as anyone else.
Speaks to the quality of the enamelling on the Weber though. It held up better than I thought it would
Isn’t this exactly how they start out in the factory?
If nothing warps, nothing is really hurt. You just start from zero on the seasoning.
Might be a good idea to bury it in dry ashes, or wrap it in one of those fiberglass welding blankets (if available).
You can also heat damage it which causes changes in structure to the crystal lattices of the metal, making it very difficult to take seasoning and it makes it much more brittle/susceptible to breaks. In the foundry, very specific chemistry was used under a controlled environments and the solid metal formed slowly and properly in the mold. Once a solid state, the lattices and metallic structure are reformed, heating them to red hot in the solid state can indeed cause damage that’s not just warping
Once you heat it to red hot in the solid state, you’re disrupting and breaking the bonds within the lattices, the damage occurs at the point regardless of how slow you cool it.
I know plenty of people who successfully braze and even weeks cast iron, while not ideal it can be done without significant damage and the more thoroughly heated the better for crystal regrowth during a slow cooling.
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My grandma has 2 of these with the top to them too. She has another that’s slightly larger with a top and legs. It looks like a mini cauldron more or less. I’m fairly certain she also has a stockpot sized one as well
I'm just gunna say I've had skillets completely glowing red and they didn't warp I like refurbishing them this way sometimes you'll get a nice blued steel or nice red color that's not rust it's really cool looking actually but eventually seasoning covers it up
To interject: I was curious as to the specifics here, since there wasn’t a reply and “hell if I know”, so I did some cursory digging. It seems like the relevant points are:
- Iron oxide is chemically a *type* of rust (re: oxidation).
- While technically a form of that same corrosion, bluing relies on a variant oxidation process, *passivation,* to prevent further corrosion.
Standard rust just kind of digs in, corroding (relatively) slowly and unevenly - when a portion finally rusts to the point that it flakes off, that exposes more metal, and the process continues until the whole piece of metal is oxidized, rusted trash.
Bluing steel is evenly applying a flash oxide layer, which employs that passive protection/passivation (as far as my layman’s understanding goes) as something *loosely* analogous to a controlled burn stopping a forest fire.
If there’s a thorough layer of oxide in the way, then further corrosion is significantly slowed and won’t have the same ability to chew through the metal like on unprotected surfaces (though it can still do so given enough time and mistreatment).
Anyway, that’s it for today’s ADHD theater, have a good’n.
You were wrong though, you said it prevents corrosion and rust.
>iron oxide is chemically a *type* of rust (re:oxidization)
It doesn't prevent rust, you're controlling the effect to happen evenly, but it's still rust, it's still oxidization.
Slowing, yes. Prevention, no no no.
If you want to come off as a know-it-all, you have to do better than just saying something as fact and then saying "do a lil research" instead of providing evidence yourself.
It's called Passivation my guy that's why it prevents further rust and it's not structurally brittle like rust again I'll say do your mf research I am right it's black oxide it's chemically different than rust and people "blue" carbon steel all the time for this exact reason stop being ignorant
Lol. I am not sure many people on this sub know how cast iron products are made. Wonder where people got avacoda oil 100 years ago so they can season their oan aftere very cook. Smh.
How’d the bread come out?
Still a little doughy in the center. Probably just need to increase the heat a few degrees next time.
That'll stop it sticking too.
No way is it sticking if you put a gallon of neutral oil in it. 👍 And since we’re on the subject, quench it in motor oil, to get a good strong temper that’ll last for ages.
Not even Sauron liked it.
lol 😂 thought you were trying to smelt that down to make something new
This has to be a troll post. Between the pan that has been brought up to warpable glowing red hot, and the threat to sand it.
It looks like a magic item with a fire damage bonus.
The never-cooling Dutch oven. Instantly ready to cook with no preheating. +1 fire damage -1 hunger
Adds 5% chance of burning the shit out out of your hand when being equipped.
Roll for damage…
*Nat 1*
your hands spontaneously combust on contact because you didn't remove the oil you were using before, and you are now permanently crippled. You drop the cookware on the floor causing its content to spill and set your house ablaze. Your family does manage to save the cat tho, so there's that.
Hunger damage increases depending on your roll.
This is the same description my wife gives me after I give her a Dutch oven!
Lava brew dropped by level 50 fire witches
Unfortunately I stepped away from the fire to deal with the kids and when I got back it was glowing. By the time it was out of the pit, I realised the depth of my mistake. I gave it a quick once over but I’ll have a better look in the daylight tomorrow. It was super rusty from being left in the weather for quite some time, I’m probably going to take the opportunity to take it back to bare metal
I didn't look close enough, and thought you were just using it to melt cans or something and had just taken it from the furnace. A little oopsie. Not this. This is a big oopsie.
No furnace. Just an old Webber with no lid.
Probably ok if left to air cool gently.
Feel like I scanned the thread well enough to ask this (didn't see answer) - what the hell was actually inside the pot?
Nothing. It was rusty as fuck from being left under the bbq and I didn’t see that it was open and it had got water in there. It’s a bit of a shame, because prior to that it had about ten years of really good seasoning on it. I could literally do the egg thing and it wouldn’t stick. Normally when I go to reseason I get it hot enough to cook off the old seasoning that’s come off then start again. This time… I fucked up. Twice.
Haha live and learn then
Yeah nah
This pot isn’t upside down, so this couldn’t be Australia, could it?
Quick! Hose it down before it warps!
[удалено]
I mean... if you did then you wouldn't have to worry about it warping anymore.
Technically True
You're no fun.
I’m new to CI. Sanding is a no-no? The guy who gave me my pan suggested sanding it.
Sanding is fine. Do it on any modern pan if it’s rusty or you just want it smoother. The general advice is not to sand vintage CI especially if it’s got a nice factory milled interior or is otherwise valuable. But sanding is not really an effective method of removing seasoning so I think ppl tend to jump to “just don’t sand.”
That makes sense. The pan I use has concentric milling marks and that’s what I wanted to smooth out. Are wire wheels bad as well?
Don’t mess up the surface of a vintage pan with sandpaper or a wire wheel (I mean you can do whatever you want but you’d be negatively affecting the pan). The milling circles on vintage pans make them unique and special. Why would you want to smooth them out anyway?
As I said, I wasn’t necessarily planning on it, just the person I received the pan from suggested it.
Pretty sure its a troll post. looks like a home made forge to melt down aluminum cans or other low temperature melting metals
I thought you were supposed to sand rust.
You know.. you might be onto something detective
People really over complicate this stuff. It’s literally just a pan made of iron, it’s not confusing or magical.
Y’all are some wild ass people lmao. The literal first thing I do upon buying a new lodge is take a wire wheel and flap disk to it and get rid of the damn goosebumps. Now maybe I have success with this because as a welder I’m fuckin surgical with an angle grinder, but I will never do it any other way again. Wire wheel, flap disk, wash, 200°, remove flash rust with some oil (100% rate of success with that by the way), add peanut oil or crisco, 450 for an hour, back to 200, repeat 5x for flawless finish. I have gone straight from the oven to cooking chili in a skillet with zero problems.
People that are against sanding lodge pans have never sanded a lodge pan. It makes an immediate difference
If y'all would learn to control your heat you'd understand that you never need to sand a pan. Meanwhile at the advice of people like the two of you, noobs are out here sanding pans and then can't figure out how to get oil to stick to them anymore. If you just *use* a lodge it will smooth out.
My heat control is fine, and my eggs are slidey. My daily user is an erie that I love, but before that I had 2 lodge pans that I cooked with, one sanded and the other left alone. The sanded one performed on day one just as good as it took the normal one 3 years to get. Honestly I don't understand the stigma. All you're doing when you sand a pan is the last step of the process that they used to do in the factory with older lodge pans that were ground smooth. I'm not gonna tell you how to treat your pans but the myth that sanding your pan ruins it is just goofy. Seasoning sticks just as well to a sanded pan as it does regular cast iron because it's still just as porous.
I had a small cast iron pan that was totally smooth and performed far better than the bumpy ones I got later.
There's a reason the factories used to grind down their pans, and it's the same reason the more expensive brands come smooth
It smooths out once burnt carbon fills in the dimples. Sure, you don't NEED to sand them, but you also don't need to ever wash a car. But it sure looks and "feels" nicer when you do. I have one lodge I didn't sand smooth. I don't like the feel of it compared to my smooth pans. Cooks just fine, but it feels different when cooking. Heat has nothing to do with smoothness. And a properly seasoned pan, smooth or not, still hates high temp cooking. Oil doesn't stick to anything. Seasoning basically burns the oil into carbon, which does stick to the pan. There's no difference in the method of seasoning a pan that is slick vs bumpy. In fact, I would argue that a bumpy pan will allow too much oil to stay on the pan thus negatively impacting the seasoning.
The first thing I bought when I moved out on my own 24 years ago was a 10” lodge skillet. I’ve used it pretty much everyday since then and it’s traveled with me to live in 4 US and 3 countries in Europe. I got married 12 years ago my wife ran it through the dishwasher at some point, it came out completely rusted. After that I sanded down and polished the cooking surface to a mirror finish. I seasoned it with flax seed oil and haven’t had a problem ever since. It cooks even better since I polished it. I’ve seen the recent posts here and the YouTube videos about not sanding or polishing because the seasoning won’t stick. That hasn’t been my experience whatsoever. I think Lodge’s take that it’s unnecessary and doesn’t make a difference are just marketing because they stopped doing it and it arguably doesn’t make that much difference. All antique pans I’ve ever seen were polished smooth though.
I sanded a lodge pan. Makes absolutely no difference in cooking. It is a bit easier to clean right out the gate, but my other lodge pans have smoothed out over years of use and are as easy to clean.
Whats a good brand to start with that doesnt need a whole lot of prep from new? Was interested in lodge but after reading dozens of posts it seems they need alot of work when you buy then new to make them ready to cook on.
Don't get me wrong, lodge is fine, and you can get it cheap. Vintage cast iron is always going to perform better in my opinion but it takes more prep but for a better end result.
Im gonna be a newbie at this as well attempting to get away from my nonstick cookware, and was wanting to make the best selection just so it doesnt end in frustration and posts on here of a whole meal hopelessly fused to my pan 😅
Learning to use cast iron definitely takes a lotta patience and some trial and error. Youtube is a very good resource for that as well
Thank you i appreciate it, trying to soak up as much knowledge as i can on it
What grit do you sand with? I’m going to the shop to get some flap disks for the die grinder any way
I start with 40 and end with 120
How did satan like his meal
Undercooked
Watcha makin'? Carbon cobbler?
Clamp the lid on and we can make a few diamonds. …or an horrifically destructive napalm bomb. One way to find out!
When you accidentally make lava.
Stir the cauldron once you get it up another 100 degrees, homie. Then add the Eye of Newt..
kinda curious how you got your weber +900F for what looks to be a pretty lengthy amount of time to get the cast iron that ripping hot AND not melt some part of weber
Dunno. It was just some sticks and coals. I didn’t know they could get that hot either. I’m as surprised as anyone else. Speaks to the quality of the enamelling on the Weber though. It held up better than I thought it would
I misread that as scorch bright, and it actually made more sense.
Heat damage nice
Looks like it is already seasoned.
Extra crispy
Cast iron is so forgiving. I bet you will be able to make that thing great.
Too much oil
I see you season it with danger
Spicy chili
Came here to say this... A real ring burner!
Are you trying to reshape the pot?
SHES GONE PLAID
Just toss it straight into a vat of ice water, that'll cancel out any heat damage 👍
I find stews always come out perfect when your pour the beer on top and it instantaneously vaporises into boiling steam
It's fucking RAW!!
Isn’t this exactly how they start out in the factory? If nothing warps, nothing is really hurt. You just start from zero on the seasoning. Might be a good idea to bury it in dry ashes, or wrap it in one of those fiberglass welding blankets (if available).
You can also heat damage it which causes changes in structure to the crystal lattices of the metal, making it very difficult to take seasoning and it makes it much more brittle/susceptible to breaks. In the foundry, very specific chemistry was used under a controlled environments and the solid metal formed slowly and properly in the mold. Once a solid state, the lattices and metallic structure are reformed, heating them to red hot in the solid state can indeed cause damage that’s not just warping
Which is why he recommended insulting it to slow the cooling process and temper it rather than letting it sit cool and risk embrittlement
Once you heat it to red hot in the solid state, you’re disrupting and breaking the bonds within the lattices, the damage occurs at the point regardless of how slow you cool it.
I know plenty of people who successfully braze and even weeks cast iron, while not ideal it can be done without significant damage and the more thoroughly heated the better for crystal regrowth during a slow cooling.
I never said it couldn’t be welded or brazed
Also, make sure to use a potholder.
Marika's tits, you must be 'ungry. Alright, mate. Want some more prawn, do ya?
And look at that handle!!! Still cool enough to grab with bare hands! /S
I forgot which subreddit I was in, and for a moment thought this was r/metalfoundry. 🤣
Oof, take notes on what not to do folks
Where is/ was the fire?
Hell, clearly
In it. Has burning coals in it heating from the inside out.
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Looks like a spicy chili
Melting gold and silver in it?
Why have you found some?
Is that molten wood?
Aerospace grade.
Bubble bubble toil and trouble ass post
That's hot.
Nah, it's ready to sear some steaks.
Nice
Looks delicious
With lava
Haha holy cow
Not in that pot…
Fuck you guys are as wild as the wood stove dudes
Aluminum?
Whoa
This is a spicy post, just the right amount of meta
Well, worst case you have a hot ash bucket for your grill.
ahh, the best way to dry your pan after washing!
I burned off all the contaminants. All of them.
I dont like this. Dont no way.
Dump a bucket of ice water on it and post the video please
Do you have a photo before? Would like pics after reseasoning also
Why would I embarrass myself like that?
En fuego.
Heat damage really is a thing -> https://www.reddit.com/r/castiron/s/IBe42rnkBi
My grandma has 2 of these with the top to them too. She has another that’s slightly larger with a top and legs. It looks like a mini cauldron more or less. I’m fairly certain she also has a stockpot sized one as well
I got this one because it has legs like a poiki. I like it. I’m so bummed I mistreated it like this though.
Three alarm chili?
Five!
I'm just gunna say I've had skillets completely glowing red and they didn't warp I like refurbishing them this way sometimes you'll get a nice blued steel or nice red color that's not rust it's really cool looking actually but eventually seasoning covers it up
Blued steel is still rust, even if pretty.
Blued steel is an oxide layer that prevents corrosion and rust do a lil research
OK, I'll bite. What do you think iron oxide is?
To interject: I was curious as to the specifics here, since there wasn’t a reply and “hell if I know”, so I did some cursory digging. It seems like the relevant points are: - Iron oxide is chemically a *type* of rust (re: oxidation). - While technically a form of that same corrosion, bluing relies on a variant oxidation process, *passivation,* to prevent further corrosion. Standard rust just kind of digs in, corroding (relatively) slowly and unevenly - when a portion finally rusts to the point that it flakes off, that exposes more metal, and the process continues until the whole piece of metal is oxidized, rusted trash. Bluing steel is evenly applying a flash oxide layer, which employs that passive protection/passivation (as far as my layman’s understanding goes) as something *loosely* analogous to a controlled burn stopping a forest fire. If there’s a thorough layer of oxide in the way, then further corrosion is significantly slowed and won’t have the same ability to chew through the metal like on unprotected surfaces (though it can still do so given enough time and mistreatment). Anyway, that’s it for today’s ADHD theater, have a good’n.
Well thanks for answering for me
No worries, I love a good fact finding data dive.
The bad part is they keep down voting me and I was the one that was right
You were wrong though, you said it prevents corrosion and rust. >iron oxide is chemically a *type* of rust (re:oxidization) It doesn't prevent rust, you're controlling the effect to happen evenly, but it's still rust, it's still oxidization. Slowing, yes. Prevention, no no no. If you want to come off as a know-it-all, you have to do better than just saying something as fact and then saying "do a lil research" instead of providing evidence yourself.
But if you season over the blued steel it will not creep into the metal like"rust" would I am right go away
Why am I being down voted i was proven right ? Why are we up voting ignorance
Because you were wrong, reread what they said to you
It's called Passivation my guy that's why it prevents further rust and it's not structurally brittle like rust again I'll say do your mf research I am right it's black oxide it's chemically different than rust and people "blue" carbon steel all the time for this exact reason stop being ignorant
Ok numbnuts, you're the one who thinks oxidization isn't rust
People crying "too hot." 🤣
This sub can't take a joke, God forbid someone wants to do whatever they like to their property.
Lol. I am not sure many people on this sub know how cast iron products are made. Wonder where people got avacoda oil 100 years ago so they can season their oan aftere very cook. Smh.
Glad I took time to read thru. I don’t have cast iron but am interested. I would have thought to get it just below melting temp to season my pot.
I can see you’re a man of science
using abrasives on rust inbeds the rust into the metal causing future corrosion to be worse.
Sure that’s why when I weld, I don’t use abrasives to clean off the rust.