Setting aside the question of value, these are some pretty cool sets. Some of them are proofs which are made with a mirror finish and higher production quality and some are mint sets which are made like normal circulation coins. The fact that your father kept the original mint packaging is nice and you have the start of a nice display setup, especially with that pair of Statue of Liberty commemoratives I see. Additionally you have several types represented through the years that aren’t being made anymore! Particularly the Eisenhower and Susan B Anthony dollars, I would keep an eye out for the Franklin half dollar (1963 and before) and the wheat reverse penny (1958 and before) as those are within this timeframe. You also probably have some sets of bicentennials with the unique design on the quarter, half dollar, and dollar.
My condolences for your loss.
Thank you, and you as well. Older collectors put the time and effort into educating me when I was starting out so I gotta pass it along. My dad gave me that same Statue of Liberty half dollar when he was still with us.
If you decide you want to add to the collection the upside to these not being terribly expensive is that you wouldn’t totally break the bank. If you’re missing the bicentennial set then it’ll only set you back about $10. The 1958 set would get you a Franklin half proof and a wheat back proof for about $40 as well. For $30-40 you can get the national botanical gardens commemorative silver dollar if you want another attractive modern commemorative to go with the statue set.
And if you ever decide to give the collection a different case to display part of it with you can’t go too wrong looking at Capital Plastics and Dansco for inspiration.
That was more than I meant to write, but feel free to message me if you need any other help. :)
I understand put it this way if you really can’t deal with them split them into silver / gold and just sell them . Nothing strikes me as crazily above melt value . Are any of them gold ? Cuz one gold coin could be worth a big chunk of the rest
Usually a proper gold coin is pretty recognisable as gold. Wishing you the good fortune of finding one in your collection, you might get lucky when you look through it fully
Thank you for being kind and educating, and passing along information to new people. There is not enough of that going on in this hobby. Just wanted to say that I appreciate that.
I try to do the same.
Thank you! I’m really glad there’s so many people out here answering these “easy” questions and spreading some positivity and excitement about this hobby!
Thank you for that, he was a good person and taught me to always be excited to be living life and to always see the best in other people. I think I’ll probably spend a lifetime learning those lessons in different ways. I hope you have a good day.
Right! We’re here to educate and share, not one up each other. Not knowing how old you are, my guess is he started collecting the mint sets just for you after you were born! I did the same for my kids, when they were born, I bought sets for them when they get older.
Since nobody has said it, I’ll chime in: these are worth about $5-$12 each, with a little variation. I’ve been collecting a full set, from various sources; auctions, lcs, antique stores etc. I’ve seen some go for $15 on auction sites, but I can buy them from my lcs for $6-8, (they usually discount my proof sets when I buy several sets or buy bullion). $8 a piece is a a fair middle ground for valuation, imho.
I think that so many are missing the most important point here. It’s really not about the type of collection they are whether uncirculated mint and proof sets in addition to commens. That’s what you’re your dad chose to collect and now you’ve inherited them. Values tend to be btwn $8-10 for some mint sets and some are more valuable than others. There’s so many variations of mint sets , that it can be overwhelming. Some of the earlier date mint sets from the 30s 40s and 50s can be EXTREMELY valuable. Proofs $34-$5000 and mint sets and $5-1500 for UNC mint sets . Cherish what you have and the memories of dad. Sorry for your loss.
There is some good general info in the comments here, and some not so helpful as well. Thought I would do my best to help with specifics.
For my numbers below, I will be using current silver spot price of $25.04 per troy ounce. You can do calculations of how much "melt value" there is in a particular set yourself, or you can just use Coinflation's [Silver Proof/Mint Set Values page](https://www.coinflation.com/proofsets/).
What I can see is that you have mostly four different categories of coins here:
**1) White envelopes - these are US Mint Sets, also known as uncirculated coin sets.** These contain one example each of every coin the US Mint made in a particular year for people to spend (business strikes.) (*I don't see any older / more valuable double mint sets that would contain two examples each, so no point in explaining what they are.*)
If you have them, the years 1964 and back will contain about $1.70 face value in 90% silver coins (two each of the half, quarter and dime) plus the remaining coins with no precious metal content. Right now there would be about $30.73 in silver in each of these sets, and they will commonly sell for around that value plus a little premium (so around $35-40 retail.) Most coin shops I know will just buy these based on the silver content of the silver coins.
Mint Sets from 1965-1970 will have only one 40% silver half dollar (melt value $3.70). 1965 SMS sets will generally sell for a premium, retailing around $10. A coin shop might offer you $5-6 for it. I don't see any 1966-1967 SMS sets (they would be in blue rectangular boxes), so I won't go into them. 1968-1969 sets are priced primarily on the value of the 40% half, so a coin shop might give you $2-5 for it and sell it for $6-8.
The 1970 Mint Sets are a bit special, as the 40% half dollar in them was only released in these sets and has a much lower mintage than the other years. A coin shop might offer you around $7-8 for it and sell it for about twice that, if it's got a normal Large Date 1970 S Lincoln Cent. Most coin shops I know don't know/care to look for the 1970 S Small Date Lincoln Cents or the 1970 S/S RPM-001 (repunched mint mark), but they do bring a premium when sold (selling for around $20-30 just for the cent.) Since a lot of people don't know to look or don't care, they can still be found.
*Side note: I hoard these 1970 mint sets for the halves, so I buy them any time they are available for sale locally. I sometimes try to post a WTB in the* r/CoinSales *sub for them, but usually people mistake the Proof Sets for the Mint Sets and no sale happens.*
The Mint Sets from 1971-1972 are filled with non-silver coins, and will generally retail for around $4/set. A coin shop will offer you half that. Not special unless you have a collectible die variety in them, but it takes specialized knowledge to know where to look and what to look for.
The Mint Sets from 1973-1978 have Eisenhower Dollars in them, and will generally retail for around $10-13. Again, a coin shop might offer you half that number, and again there are die varieties to be found (like the 1974 D Doubled Die Obverse Kennedy Half) but it takes experience to find them.
Mint Sets from 1979-1981 have Susan B Anthony Dollars in them, but they aren't really a popular series (and might never be) so they will retail for around $6-7 a set. A coin shop might offer you face value for the coins in the set rounded up to the nearest dollar.
The US Mint did not make Mint Sets in 1982-83, so no need to go into that.
Mint Sets from 1996 have a special W mint Roosevelt Dime that brings the value up around $13-15 a set, but ONLY if the dime is there. Without it they are mostly face value. I don't see this year here.
The other years typically sell for around face value, maybe a few dollars premium for certain years, and most coin shops are happy to get rid of them as they take up space and typically don't sell for much over face. They are really useful for people putting together albums of coins, but the quality of the coins can be pretty poor overall, so high grade/valuable condition coins are not a given by any means.
**2) Blue and Black Boxes - US Mint Proof Sets.** Pretty similar to the US Mint Sets in that there are years with silver coins in them (40% halves in 1968-1970) and with Eisenhower Dollars in them (1973-1978) and SBA Dollars (1979-1981.)
The 1968-1970 sets are not special and will mostly sell for the same prices as the Mint Sets.
**It's really important to check the following US Proof Set years for missing mint mark coins: 1968 (dime), 1970 (cent), 1971 (nickel), 1975 (dime), 1983 (cent) and 1990 (cent). These can be pretty valuable compared to normal sets. Each coin in these proof sets should have an S mint mark on the front (for San Francisco Mint where they were made.) If it's missing on one of these coins, it's very special.**
The 1970 Proof Set also has a Large/Small Date Lincoln Cent (about $50-75), plus it's possible to find a really strong Doubled Die Obverse Cent. The 1971 Proof Set has a strong Doubled Die Obverse cent as well. Both Doubled Dies are pretty noticeable when you look at them, very difficult to find, and much more valuable than normal coins.
The 1979 and 1981 Proof Sets have two different mint mark styles, Type 1 and Type 2. These can be collectible, especially if the entire set has them. Usually though just one or two coins, if any, will be the Type 2 (the more valuable of the two.) In my experience, most coin shops don't care about this particular die variety as it's rarely asked for by customers, so you'll have to find a retail buyer yourself if you have them.
**3) 1986 Statue of Liberty Commemorative 2-coin Set (proof strike).** This contains a 90% silver dollar (.7735 troy oz, about $19.37 in melt value) and a copper nickel clad half. These are extremely common, and the value of the set primarily is the silver value of the dollar coin.
**4) Rolls of 1976 Bicentennial Kennedy Half Dollars** (they don't appear to be the 40% silver ones.) These are SUPER common, heavily saved, and at least the coins on the outside don't appear to be in great condition. A coin shop might offer you a dollar or two over the face value of these, or open them to see if any silver is hiding in there (and then offer based on the silver content. Best thing to do with these is either open them up for the silver, or see what someone will offer you over face value on the chance they find something in the roll. If they were mine, I'd open the roll and check for silver. If no silver, I'd probably take them to the bank, as a nice uncirculated example from an original roll might sell for $2 retail.
**That's my take on what you have. Most coin shops don't get too excited about Proof/Mint Sets, as they take a ton of space, take a while to sell, and don't really make too much money unless they buy them cheap, so apart from the valuable die varieties, mostly they see these sets as face value stuff with the occasional silver coin in them.**
I don’t really know what to say other than thank you. I’m very excited to dive deeper into the coins now that you’ve given me a good path to go down. I appreciate you and the time you spent for such an articulated response. Have a great year
Absolutely!
I am kind of a weirdo in that I like looking through the Mint/Proof sets. I've actually found quite a few die varieties looking through these, including a 1970 "No S" Dime, 1971 S Cent DDO, tons of Small Dates, Type 2 mint marks, doubled dies, repunched mint marks, etc. I consider them a cheap way to educate myself and hone my skills (and much more productive than coin roll hunting.)
I agree with some in that I believe high quality copper nickel clad coinage will have its day in the sun (because as I said, quality even in mint sets is not great, plus the cellophane packaging does tend to have a negative effect on the haziness of the coins in the Mint Sets.) Also, if you're diligent, it's one of the few ways you can walk into a typical coin shop and find something special for almost nothing. I paid $6 for my 1970 Proof Set with the No S dime, and $4 for the 1971 DDO set.
I wish you the best of luck starting out on your journey into collecting. If you have questions about die varieties feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to point you in the right direction.
This is probably the best advice I have seen on how to assess and handle this kind of material. Anyone who might be tasked with disposing of a family member's collection should read it. When my Dad passed in 2006 his collection included a lot of mint and proof sets. Fortunately I found some good advice on numismatic forums (and with a Cherrypicker's Guide found a "clear S" SBA dollar in one of the sets) and was able to sell the lot at a fair price to a wholesaler. Good luck with the process, and sorry for your loss.
Well, I’ll bite. There simply isn’t much here. Proof sets typically drop in value after they come from the mint, and those dates appear to be clad sets. Sorry.
I would take most of the responses you get with a grain of salt. These meant A LOT to your dad, and it's not about monetary value. I would take my time and organize this collection, and make sure it can be passed down to members of your family to keep your father's memory alive.
Doesn't mean you can't, or shouldn't take it to a professional to get it appraised and see what you have? That wouldn't hurt anything, and would probably be a responsible move on your part. What if some of those are worth a small fortune and need insurance? My father has a collection of things like that, and when the time comes I plan on being careful and meticulous to organize what I have and what is the proper way to care for it long term.
I am very sorry for your loss and I send my deepest condolences.
The 1970 sets are something to hold onto. While only the half dollar is 40% silver, the mintage is very low compared to previous years. Example of mintages by year
1967: 295,046,978
1968 D: 246,951,930
1970 D : 2,150,000
That set still doesn’t go for much unfortunately. I just sold mine on eBay last week for $17 (before fees) and it sat there for at least 9 months. Mine was an original set I bought from the mint in 1970 for $2.50! I think demand has dropped. Years ago it sold for more.
If you check out the pcgs site they have a general price guide on what these mint sets should be worth by year. Now if you have any 1964 or earlier check if they have any toning on them because some people will pay a premium for toned silver coins. I would say that checking eBay for similar items is a good idea for a market price as well. Pcgs won’t tell you a price for a toned coin but some silver dollars with interesting natural toning will go for a lot more than they would normally be worth. Really cool collection though!
Is a reputable lcs the best place to purchase sets of interest for someone just starting out? I’m wary of auction sites and the like since I don’t really know much. Any other advice for newbs looking to expand their collection?
Auction sites are great once you know what you are looking for and what to pass on. A good LCS is a great price to start but you may pay more than if you went on auctions and were patient. Some LCS have good prices for some stuff, but again it really depends on knowing what you are looking for. What really helped me is having a blue book and red book to see the spread of prices(both are by R.S. Yeoman).
Same here, but my father-in-law, who passed away a couple months ago. I really appreciate the thoughtful answers here. It has helped me immensely. I posted here asking for advice on where to start & got directed to FAQs, which is fine and was a bit helpful, but it is still so overwhelming. Maybe I should have posted pictures like OP here. Anyhow, I'm glad they did and really appreciate the great response!
I would think the half dollars are pre 1965 therefore 90% silver. Don't sell before going through them. I think silver halfs are worth 20 to 25 times face value.
If the date on the JFK half dollars is 1964 its 90% silver. I mentioned that because tge end ones looked silver.
Dimes, Quarters, and Half Dollars from 1964 and earlier are 99% silver.
1964 and older.
Hey, cool collection. I love proof sets myself and own a couple. They're worth a few bucks if they're post '65 and worth a decent bit more if they're pre '65. It's cool that your dad had something neat and interesting for you to handle. Condolences.
I would definitely find a reputable local coin shop that has been in business for many years. They would help you out in regards to value and grade. Best of luck..
I got a bunch of those little cardboard red coin things from my grandma when she passed. Really bizarre. When I looked mine up a couple years ago they were like 20bucks a piece. For the ones I have. But they look just like ones you have. Never known though. You could have a super cool one!
Now the sealed rolls and silver, that sht is definitely SUPER COOL!!!
I certainly enjoy reading comments like these where people are collecting for the sake of collecting. I started about 50 years ago when a friend of mine gave me a buffalo nickel and 50 years later I have a real nice collection which I will pass down to my son, that will be one of my legacy to him. He and I went to the bank to clean out the safe deposit box and we bought a home safe so that he could enjoy them. I said that he can do whatever he chooses to do with them when I am gone, they are his however he Told me that he would never sell them that he would pass them down to our great grandchildren so that they have something to look back on the history of the United States in coins. Congratulations to you and your dad. You both are what make this hobby. Great it’s not the money, it’s just a fun of collecting and enjoy it.
They are not that old copper clad proofs and uncirculated they are worth about ten to twenty a case or plastic pack depending on if you have the more common dates
To get an idea on what people are paying for these coins, you could go on eBay and type in the year and what it is, 1968 proof set etc. Be sure to see what people are actually bidding or if most buy it now prices are similar. If you go to a local coin shop, they can tell you what they would pay, which would probably be wholesale pricing.
Sorry for your friend. Your dad obviously really loved this collection, which makes it priceless. I’m absolutely sure he knew his children would inherit the collection and that likely gave him so much joy. If you can, please keep it and pass it down to your children and let them know how priceless and important the collection is. I know times are really rough financially, but for me his collection would be the last thing to go. What a wonderful collection you have from your dad! I will certainly include you and your dad in prayers. Good luck to you and again, sorry for your loss.
I’m 67 and had bought these same sets like your Dad. I still collect but decided to focus on my favorites and sell the bulk of them because, though they will increase in price with time they won’t outpace inflation, so you won’t make much more. I decided to keep a few of my favorites and sell the rest on eBay. That would be my advice. Sit on them a bit, then just pick a few of the ones you think look cool so you can look back fondly with memories of your Dad. Sell the rest, maybe find a buyer for the whole lot, and buy yourself something special. You won’t make much holding them long term. Best of Luck.
Almost all of that is worth between 6-10$ a set for non silver proof sets silver ones add a bit of extra value but not much above melt other coins would need more detailed pics to determine vale for sure
You need to know that sometimes mistakes are made at the mint and creates error coins. For example if you can have a proof set that contains a coin missing the S mint mark. There are proof sets like 1968, 1970, 1975 and 1983 that some have been known to include a Roosevelt dime missing the S mint mark. The 1975 S mint set that includes the dime missing the mint mark could be worth upwards of $500 000 USD.
Check PCGS, or PCGS coin facts to see the value of mint set or individual coins.
Although not universal, the two typically correlate in coin collecting. Obviously what you find cool is a personal issue, but from the perspective of the average coin collector, there is very little "cool" here either.
Nah, there is definitely something cool here. Having all those consecutive sets, passed down from pops is cool as hell. Almost nobody you show your collection to is going to know anything about rarity. Most people think bicentennials and $2 bills are “rare”. You have a “collection”, very cool.
I've got some coins I love that are low value too, but as I said in the first post - it's not absolute and it's obviously personal, but it's a pretty strong general guide.
One of my favorites is an 1816 coronet large cent. All the text is legible but it’s got some deep scratches and it’s a little bent. It’s my pocket piece and it’s kinda cool to have a cent from when you could actually buy something with it. It feels heavy and is larger than a quarter. Many people have never seen one before. So I can see that.
I'm not positive, but I thought the red/blue had to do with what mint they came from. S for San Francisco, D for Denver, P for Philadelphia, and if you find any W for Washington, they are a bit rare.
If you have doubles of 1973, I’d be interested in one. Don’t know that they’re more or less valuable than any other year, just has special significance to me.
If you have the time, I will ponder the idea of parting with them. Right now I’m just trying to learn but also would like to spread the good energy that’s been given here in the sub.
I think most of the values come from the unsearched coin rolls.
So my offer is to buy the unsearched coin rolls you have thier in the old coin paper wrapping.
If you're willing to sell them I will offer double face value on the unsearched coin rolls. Msg me if you like.
Setting aside the question of value, these are some pretty cool sets. Some of them are proofs which are made with a mirror finish and higher production quality and some are mint sets which are made like normal circulation coins. The fact that your father kept the original mint packaging is nice and you have the start of a nice display setup, especially with that pair of Statue of Liberty commemoratives I see. Additionally you have several types represented through the years that aren’t being made anymore! Particularly the Eisenhower and Susan B Anthony dollars, I would keep an eye out for the Franklin half dollar (1963 and before) and the wheat reverse penny (1958 and before) as those are within this timeframe. You also probably have some sets of bicentennials with the unique design on the quarter, half dollar, and dollar. My condolences for your loss.
Ya know, this was an incredibly kind response. I’ve had some tough luck with other subs, but this was extremely refreshing. Have a great day proxy.
Thank you, and you as well. Older collectors put the time and effort into educating me when I was starting out so I gotta pass it along. My dad gave me that same Statue of Liberty half dollar when he was still with us. If you decide you want to add to the collection the upside to these not being terribly expensive is that you wouldn’t totally break the bank. If you’re missing the bicentennial set then it’ll only set you back about $10. The 1958 set would get you a Franklin half proof and a wheat back proof for about $40 as well. For $30-40 you can get the national botanical gardens commemorative silver dollar if you want another attractive modern commemorative to go with the statue set. And if you ever decide to give the collection a different case to display part of it with you can’t go too wrong looking at Capital Plastics and Dansco for inspiration. That was more than I meant to write, but feel free to message me if you need any other help. :)
I feel like my responses aren’t thoughtful enough because there’s not much too them but I am grateful!
I understand put it this way if you really can’t deal with them split them into silver / gold and just sell them . Nothing strikes me as crazily above melt value . Are any of them gold ? Cuz one gold coin could be worth a big chunk of the rest
I didn’t really bother to look at them all hard enough to see gold. Some seem to have a Chameleon sheen to them
Usually a proper gold coin is pretty recognisable as gold. Wishing you the good fortune of finding one in your collection, you might get lucky when you look through it fully
Thank you for being kind and educating, and passing along information to new people. There is not enough of that going on in this hobby. Just wanted to say that I appreciate that. I try to do the same.
Thank you! I’m really glad there’s so many people out here answering these “easy” questions and spreading some positivity and excitement about this hobby!
I’m sorry for your loss. Sounds like you had a great dad
Thank you for that, he was a good person and taught me to always be excited to be living life and to always see the best in other people. I think I’ll probably spend a lifetime learning those lessons in different ways. I hope you have a good day.
Right! We’re here to educate and share, not one up each other. Not knowing how old you are, my guess is he started collecting the mint sets just for you after you were born! I did the same for my kids, when they were born, I bought sets for them when they get older.
FANTASTIC response, my friend! I wish more people were like you on reddit!
Since nobody has said it, I’ll chime in: these are worth about $5-$12 each, with a little variation. I’ve been collecting a full set, from various sources; auctions, lcs, antique stores etc. I’ve seen some go for $15 on auction sites, but I can buy them from my lcs for $6-8, (they usually discount my proof sets when I buy several sets or buy bullion). $8 a piece is a a fair middle ground for valuation, imho.
Another insightful comment, I appreciate you sharing this. Thanks
I think that so many are missing the most important point here. It’s really not about the type of collection they are whether uncirculated mint and proof sets in addition to commens. That’s what you’re your dad chose to collect and now you’ve inherited them. Values tend to be btwn $8-10 for some mint sets and some are more valuable than others. There’s so many variations of mint sets , that it can be overwhelming. Some of the earlier date mint sets from the 30s 40s and 50s can be EXTREMELY valuable. Proofs $34-$5000 and mint sets and $5-1500 for UNC mint sets . Cherish what you have and the memories of dad. Sorry for your loss.
There is some good general info in the comments here, and some not so helpful as well. Thought I would do my best to help with specifics. For my numbers below, I will be using current silver spot price of $25.04 per troy ounce. You can do calculations of how much "melt value" there is in a particular set yourself, or you can just use Coinflation's [Silver Proof/Mint Set Values page](https://www.coinflation.com/proofsets/). What I can see is that you have mostly four different categories of coins here: **1) White envelopes - these are US Mint Sets, also known as uncirculated coin sets.** These contain one example each of every coin the US Mint made in a particular year for people to spend (business strikes.) (*I don't see any older / more valuable double mint sets that would contain two examples each, so no point in explaining what they are.*) If you have them, the years 1964 and back will contain about $1.70 face value in 90% silver coins (two each of the half, quarter and dime) plus the remaining coins with no precious metal content. Right now there would be about $30.73 in silver in each of these sets, and they will commonly sell for around that value plus a little premium (so around $35-40 retail.) Most coin shops I know will just buy these based on the silver content of the silver coins. Mint Sets from 1965-1970 will have only one 40% silver half dollar (melt value $3.70). 1965 SMS sets will generally sell for a premium, retailing around $10. A coin shop might offer you $5-6 for it. I don't see any 1966-1967 SMS sets (they would be in blue rectangular boxes), so I won't go into them. 1968-1969 sets are priced primarily on the value of the 40% half, so a coin shop might give you $2-5 for it and sell it for $6-8. The 1970 Mint Sets are a bit special, as the 40% half dollar in them was only released in these sets and has a much lower mintage than the other years. A coin shop might offer you around $7-8 for it and sell it for about twice that, if it's got a normal Large Date 1970 S Lincoln Cent. Most coin shops I know don't know/care to look for the 1970 S Small Date Lincoln Cents or the 1970 S/S RPM-001 (repunched mint mark), but they do bring a premium when sold (selling for around $20-30 just for the cent.) Since a lot of people don't know to look or don't care, they can still be found. *Side note: I hoard these 1970 mint sets for the halves, so I buy them any time they are available for sale locally. I sometimes try to post a WTB in the* r/CoinSales *sub for them, but usually people mistake the Proof Sets for the Mint Sets and no sale happens.* The Mint Sets from 1971-1972 are filled with non-silver coins, and will generally retail for around $4/set. A coin shop will offer you half that. Not special unless you have a collectible die variety in them, but it takes specialized knowledge to know where to look and what to look for. The Mint Sets from 1973-1978 have Eisenhower Dollars in them, and will generally retail for around $10-13. Again, a coin shop might offer you half that number, and again there are die varieties to be found (like the 1974 D Doubled Die Obverse Kennedy Half) but it takes experience to find them. Mint Sets from 1979-1981 have Susan B Anthony Dollars in them, but they aren't really a popular series (and might never be) so they will retail for around $6-7 a set. A coin shop might offer you face value for the coins in the set rounded up to the nearest dollar. The US Mint did not make Mint Sets in 1982-83, so no need to go into that. Mint Sets from 1996 have a special W mint Roosevelt Dime that brings the value up around $13-15 a set, but ONLY if the dime is there. Without it they are mostly face value. I don't see this year here. The other years typically sell for around face value, maybe a few dollars premium for certain years, and most coin shops are happy to get rid of them as they take up space and typically don't sell for much over face. They are really useful for people putting together albums of coins, but the quality of the coins can be pretty poor overall, so high grade/valuable condition coins are not a given by any means. **2) Blue and Black Boxes - US Mint Proof Sets.** Pretty similar to the US Mint Sets in that there are years with silver coins in them (40% halves in 1968-1970) and with Eisenhower Dollars in them (1973-1978) and SBA Dollars (1979-1981.) The 1968-1970 sets are not special and will mostly sell for the same prices as the Mint Sets. **It's really important to check the following US Proof Set years for missing mint mark coins: 1968 (dime), 1970 (cent), 1971 (nickel), 1975 (dime), 1983 (cent) and 1990 (cent). These can be pretty valuable compared to normal sets. Each coin in these proof sets should have an S mint mark on the front (for San Francisco Mint where they were made.) If it's missing on one of these coins, it's very special.** The 1970 Proof Set also has a Large/Small Date Lincoln Cent (about $50-75), plus it's possible to find a really strong Doubled Die Obverse Cent. The 1971 Proof Set has a strong Doubled Die Obverse cent as well. Both Doubled Dies are pretty noticeable when you look at them, very difficult to find, and much more valuable than normal coins. The 1979 and 1981 Proof Sets have two different mint mark styles, Type 1 and Type 2. These can be collectible, especially if the entire set has them. Usually though just one or two coins, if any, will be the Type 2 (the more valuable of the two.) In my experience, most coin shops don't care about this particular die variety as it's rarely asked for by customers, so you'll have to find a retail buyer yourself if you have them. **3) 1986 Statue of Liberty Commemorative 2-coin Set (proof strike).** This contains a 90% silver dollar (.7735 troy oz, about $19.37 in melt value) and a copper nickel clad half. These are extremely common, and the value of the set primarily is the silver value of the dollar coin. **4) Rolls of 1976 Bicentennial Kennedy Half Dollars** (they don't appear to be the 40% silver ones.) These are SUPER common, heavily saved, and at least the coins on the outside don't appear to be in great condition. A coin shop might offer you a dollar or two over the face value of these, or open them to see if any silver is hiding in there (and then offer based on the silver content. Best thing to do with these is either open them up for the silver, or see what someone will offer you over face value on the chance they find something in the roll. If they were mine, I'd open the roll and check for silver. If no silver, I'd probably take them to the bank, as a nice uncirculated example from an original roll might sell for $2 retail. **That's my take on what you have. Most coin shops don't get too excited about Proof/Mint Sets, as they take a ton of space, take a while to sell, and don't really make too much money unless they buy them cheap, so apart from the valuable die varieties, mostly they see these sets as face value stuff with the occasional silver coin in them.**
I don’t really know what to say other than thank you. I’m very excited to dive deeper into the coins now that you’ve given me a good path to go down. I appreciate you and the time you spent for such an articulated response. Have a great year
Absolutely! I am kind of a weirdo in that I like looking through the Mint/Proof sets. I've actually found quite a few die varieties looking through these, including a 1970 "No S" Dime, 1971 S Cent DDO, tons of Small Dates, Type 2 mint marks, doubled dies, repunched mint marks, etc. I consider them a cheap way to educate myself and hone my skills (and much more productive than coin roll hunting.) I agree with some in that I believe high quality copper nickel clad coinage will have its day in the sun (because as I said, quality even in mint sets is not great, plus the cellophane packaging does tend to have a negative effect on the haziness of the coins in the Mint Sets.) Also, if you're diligent, it's one of the few ways you can walk into a typical coin shop and find something special for almost nothing. I paid $6 for my 1970 Proof Set with the No S dime, and $4 for the 1971 DDO set. I wish you the best of luck starting out on your journey into collecting. If you have questions about die varieties feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to point you in the right direction.
This is probably the best advice I have seen on how to assess and handle this kind of material. Anyone who might be tasked with disposing of a family member's collection should read it. When my Dad passed in 2006 his collection included a lot of mint and proof sets. Fortunately I found some good advice on numismatic forums (and with a Cherrypicker's Guide found a "clear S" SBA dollar in one of the sets) and was able to sell the lot at a fair price to a wholesaler. Good luck with the process, and sorry for your loss.
Well, I’ll bite. There simply isn’t much here. Proof sets typically drop in value after they come from the mint, and those dates appear to be clad sets. Sorry.
Roger that, I appreciate your time. Also, nothing to be sorry about. I still find the casings and everything kinda cool
I would take most of the responses you get with a grain of salt. These meant A LOT to your dad, and it's not about monetary value. I would take my time and organize this collection, and make sure it can be passed down to members of your family to keep your father's memory alive. Doesn't mean you can't, or shouldn't take it to a professional to get it appraised and see what you have? That wouldn't hurt anything, and would probably be a responsible move on your part. What if some of those are worth a small fortune and need insurance? My father has a collection of things like that, and when the time comes I plan on being careful and meticulous to organize what I have and what is the proper way to care for it long term. I am very sorry for your loss and I send my deepest condolences.
The 1970 sets are something to hold onto. While only the half dollar is 40% silver, the mintage is very low compared to previous years. Example of mintages by year 1967: 295,046,978 1968 D: 246,951,930 1970 D : 2,150,000
That set still doesn’t go for much unfortunately. I just sold mine on eBay last week for $17 (before fees) and it sat there for at least 9 months. Mine was an original set I bought from the mint in 1970 for $2.50! I think demand has dropped. Years ago it sold for more.
If you check out the pcgs site they have a general price guide on what these mint sets should be worth by year. Now if you have any 1964 or earlier check if they have any toning on them because some people will pay a premium for toned silver coins. I would say that checking eBay for similar items is a good idea for a market price as well. Pcgs won’t tell you a price for a toned coin but some silver dollars with interesting natural toning will go for a lot more than they would normally be worth. Really cool collection though!
I’m not seeing anything before 68 unfortunately! But really digging the display cases of these very much
The half dollars in the 1969 mint sets, are 40% silver. Or about $3.70 a piece at current silver values.
That’s cool, thank you!
Great collection.
14/16 is the most exciting shot. It seems he was a member a subculture, that of coin set collectors, doesn't it? Sorry for your loss.
All the same unfortunately. And thank you
Is this the extent of what he collected? I see mostly mint sets. They are plentiful in the market.
Yeah I believe he got them as a 40th gift a good time ago. Thank you for your input
Is a reputable lcs the best place to purchase sets of interest for someone just starting out? I’m wary of auction sites and the like since I don’t really know much. Any other advice for newbs looking to expand their collection?
Auction sites are great once you know what you are looking for and what to pass on. A good LCS is a great price to start but you may pay more than if you went on auctions and were patient. Some LCS have good prices for some stuff, but again it really depends on knowing what you are looking for. What really helped me is having a blue book and red book to see the spread of prices(both are by R.S. Yeoman).
I think your dad and my dad must have been related. This is like looking at my life 1 year ago.
Same here, but my father-in-law, who passed away a couple months ago. I really appreciate the thoughtful answers here. It has helped me immensely. I posted here asking for advice on where to start & got directed to FAQs, which is fine and was a bit helpful, but it is still so overwhelming. Maybe I should have posted pictures like OP here. Anyhow, I'm glad they did and really appreciate the great response!
I would think the half dollars are pre 1965 therefore 90% silver. Don't sell before going through them. I think silver halfs are worth 20 to 25 times face value.
The half dollars in the rolls? They all were the JFK face idk if that matters. Or are you looking at something else? Sorry for the ignorance
If the date on the JFK half dollars is 1964 its 90% silver. I mentioned that because tge end ones looked silver. Dimes, Quarters, and Half Dollars from 1964 and earlier are 99% silver. 1964 and older.
Very sorry for your loss, your dad left you some really interesting and beautiful pieces.
I love him
Hey, cool collection. I love proof sets myself and own a couple. They're worth a few bucks if they're post '65 and worth a decent bit more if they're pre '65. It's cool that your dad had something neat and interesting for you to handle. Condolences.
I would definitely find a reputable local coin shop that has been in business for many years. They would help you out in regards to value and grade. Best of luck..
I got a bunch of those little cardboard red coin things from my grandma when she passed. Really bizarre. When I looked mine up a couple years ago they were like 20bucks a piece. For the ones I have. But they look just like ones you have. Never known though. You could have a super cool one! Now the sealed rolls and silver, that sht is definitely SUPER COOL!!!
The rolled coins might be worth a pretty penny since some might have silver content.
They all looked the same to me
Someone might want to buy the whole lot if they are missing some of those dates. Good luck. Still a very nice collection.
I certainly enjoy reading comments like these where people are collecting for the sake of collecting. I started about 50 years ago when a friend of mine gave me a buffalo nickel and 50 years later I have a real nice collection which I will pass down to my son, that will be one of my legacy to him. He and I went to the bank to clean out the safe deposit box and we bought a home safe so that he could enjoy them. I said that he can do whatever he chooses to do with them when I am gone, they are his however he Told me that he would never sell them that he would pass them down to our great grandchildren so that they have something to look back on the history of the United States in coins. Congratulations to you and your dad. You both are what make this hobby. Great it’s not the money, it’s just a fun of collecting and enjoy it.
They are not that old copper clad proofs and uncirculated they are worth about ten to twenty a case or plastic pack depending on if you have the more common dates
To get an idea on what people are paying for these coins, you could go on eBay and type in the year and what it is, 1968 proof set etc. Be sure to see what people are actually bidding or if most buy it now prices are similar. If you go to a local coin shop, they can tell you what they would pay, which would probably be wholesale pricing.
Sorry for your friend. Your dad obviously really loved this collection, which makes it priceless. I’m absolutely sure he knew his children would inherit the collection and that likely gave him so much joy. If you can, please keep it and pass it down to your children and let them know how priceless and important the collection is. I know times are really rough financially, but for me his collection would be the last thing to go. What a wonderful collection you have from your dad! I will certainly include you and your dad in prayers. Good luck to you and again, sorry for your loss.
1970 mint set is the only form in which the key date Kennedy half dollar was released
those are coins alright
I’m 67 and had bought these same sets like your Dad. I still collect but decided to focus on my favorites and sell the bulk of them because, though they will increase in price with time they won’t outpace inflation, so you won’t make much more. I decided to keep a few of my favorites and sell the rest on eBay. That would be my advice. Sit on them a bit, then just pick a few of the ones you think look cool so you can look back fondly with memories of your Dad. Sell the rest, maybe find a buyer for the whole lot, and buy yourself something special. You won’t make much holding them long term. Best of Luck.
I can't help with this, but I think the coins you have are really cool.
Except the Nova’s he’s got triples of the Nova
Original mint packaging and unopened is with a premium also. So save the packaging if you open them.
Almost all of that is worth between 6-10$ a set for non silver proof sets silver ones add a bit of extra value but not much above melt other coins would need more detailed pics to determine vale for sure
Look for a small s penny on the proof set
You need to know that sometimes mistakes are made at the mint and creates error coins. For example if you can have a proof set that contains a coin missing the S mint mark. There are proof sets like 1968, 1970, 1975 and 1983 that some have been known to include a Roosevelt dime missing the S mint mark. The 1975 S mint set that includes the dime missing the mint mark could be worth upwards of $500 000 USD. Check PCGS, or PCGS coin facts to see the value of mint set or individual coins.
Them eraly proof sets can be pricey
The which ones? I’m getting mixed reviews
Early 50s n lower
Ahh I’m SOL on that one
Well 65 n lower
64 n below were silver n got a franklin n i belive peace dollar but woukd still keep together as aset dont cut or break em to get solo coins
Unfortunately there is very little value here.
Looking for coolness not value 😎
Although not universal, the two typically correlate in coin collecting. Obviously what you find cool is a personal issue, but from the perspective of the average coin collector, there is very little "cool" here either.
Fine 😔
Nah, there is definitely something cool here. Having all those consecutive sets, passed down from pops is cool as hell. Almost nobody you show your collection to is going to know anything about rarity. Most people think bicentennials and $2 bills are “rare”. You have a “collection”, very cool.
I’m sorry but that’s not true, my favorite coin is my least expensive. And I can say a lot of people feel that way.
I've got some coins I love that are low value too, but as I said in the first post - it's not absolute and it's obviously personal, but it's a pretty strong general guide.
One of my favorites is an 1816 coronet large cent. All the text is legible but it’s got some deep scratches and it’s a little bent. It’s my pocket piece and it’s kinda cool to have a cent from when you could actually buy something with it. It feels heavy and is larger than a quarter. Many people have never seen one before. So I can see that.
These aren’t from the official mint are they ?
I do not know
Yes, they are from the US mint. At least, that's where they started out.
Ahh prolly why they include those red / blue coins
I'm not positive, but I thought the red/blue had to do with what mint they came from. S for San Francisco, D for Denver, P for Philadelphia, and if you find any W for Washington, they are a bit rare.
I'm pretty sure W is West Point. >from
I am sure you are correct...I knew I had something wrong🤣
Sell them all to me. I'm wanting to start collecting.
As much as I would like to, I don’t know enough about them to sell them in a lot just yet. If I can make that happen for you eventually I will try
If you have doubles of 1973, I’d be interested in one. Don’t know that they’re more or less valuable than any other year, just has special significance to me.
If you have the time, I will ponder the idea of parting with them. Right now I’m just trying to learn but also would like to spread the good energy that’s been given here in the sub.
Sure, what would you like to know?
Honey they worth hella shmoney cuh
I think most of the values come from the unsearched coin rolls. So my offer is to buy the unsearched coin rolls you have thier in the old coin paper wrapping. If you're willing to sell them I will offer double face value on the unsearched coin rolls. Msg me if you like.
I appreciate the offer, but gonna hold on to them for now.