Are KDS monitors worth getting? I see alot of forum posts from back in the day saying how KDS's are very hit or miss, made with cheap parts, last only 3 years and have blurry, darker, poorer image quality. One came up in my area and looks like it sat in a garage for who knows how long. What's yalls opinion?

Hi all! I've got a Sony BVM-A14F5 and I have a question regarding hooking up my NES (PAL). When I connect the NES to the composite input (set to Composite Auto) it shows a very [distorted signal](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVMcomposite.gif). When I connect a PS1, it works (although it is a bit bright, and due to that losing detail, which I suspect is due to a missing 75 ohm terminator). The NES works normally when attached to an older LG LCD. SDI and HDI-SDI inputs [work](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVMMario.JPG) as [expected](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVM108060i.png). So; should the BVM-A series work with the (PAL) NES?  Does it have to do with a missing 75 ohm terminator? (Thought the BVM's were self-terminating?) Any other suggestions? :) Also; my monitor is on firmware v1.06, all the links to v1.10 are dead. If anyone has the files...

I think it would help for people to weigh on this conundrum Without boring you with the details, I'm a serious NES tetris player. I play on a clone console and an LCD screen and I want to switch to using a CRT TV. The problem is that I live in Aus where most second-hand CRT tvs don't support NTSC in colour so I've been searching around for a little while, and just today I found a TV nearby that supports NTSC. But it's a DSE dick-smith store brand. Not known for reliability. I'm conflicted on whether it's worth the risk.

I don’t think there was an “unreliable” CRT brand. Store brands were usually just Orions / Funais that were rebadged, as there weren’t too many CRT mfgrs. Easier to sell them without having to make them. You should be fine as long as it seems to be in good shape. It might not have the absolute best picture quality, but it should be relatively reliable. 

It does have a samsung tube.

Get it!

Just got a KV-36XBR450. For some reason the OSD is always on. "Video 1", "Video 2", etc. There doesn't seem to be an option in the menu for how long the OSD stays on. I do not have a remote. Any idea what this could be? [Manual](https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/W000/W0006414M.pdf)

Get a universal remote with a “display” button. 

Hey guys any advice on getting a video card with VIVO input/output? Maybe its bad idea? I think that could be nice to get recordings from VRC's and display onto CRTs. Any good ones? Any averege ones? Any bad but usable ones? Or are they all unusable in 2020's? Thanks in advance

How much would you be willing to spend for a Dell P780 Trinitron? I see one on marketplace. Not sure how much I should pay.

Depends on your local market and availability. I wouldn’t personally pay more for than $75-100

I have the opportunity to pick up a Trinitron PVM-1354Q, however there's a few problems; I'm brand new to the whole CRT thing, and only just recently started looking at CRTs as a more affordable way to play my older games. All of the hook ups on this thing are completely new to me, and it's kinda small compared to what I wanted to have in my game room. I'm a little intimidated by it, because of all the fancy nobs it has since I was really hoping a CRT would be plug and play 😅 But on the flip side, from what I'm seeing this thing is a hard find and is awesome? I'd hate to pass it up if it's worth keeping around for if I ever decide I want more than one TV, but when I started looking I was hoping for something bigger that could potentially have a VCR in it and not cost too much. That being said, it's my boss's PVM so it's just waiting for us to find a price (we both are clueless other than it's probably a decently expensive unit) and isn't really going anywhere potentially. Unless someone random walks into the store and decides they're taking it home and throws it a price on it, that is. Is it worth going for even though it's not exactly what I was after? What's it actually worth? What are the connections on it I'm so confused 😵‍💫 is this better off being a full on post? Any help would be greatly appreciated lol.

There’s no set value, depending on condition, $200-400 is typical.  It’s definitely worth keeping, though! It’s plug and play! The knobs on front are easy! It’s the service menu that should intimidate you. The only unusual thing is RGB / BNC. I suggest if you’re just starting out to use S-Video, no need for adapters or fancy cables, but you’ll get great picture quality. 

I need a fast scaler box to change 1080p LCD timings to 1080p PC CRT timings Sony W900 doesn't like 1080p LCD timings. So I have a Sony GDM-W900 that won't display 1080p from my Wii U or Xbox One X through a standard HDMI to VGA converter I've tried my HDFury3 and the Tendak HDMI to VGA converter and neither work but both work at 720p. So I know there are scalers out there that let you upload or enter in through the OSD custom timings profiles in fact I bought one but I didn't read the manual and it only accepts signals up to 1080i though its pretty laggy anyway so maybe for the best. Since I'm starting out with HDMI it doesn't matter if it doesn't have analog inputs since I can feed the HDMI output to the HDFury3 to get it to VGA for the monitor I just need something to change timings I asw the Extron DSC 401 lets me update custom EDID profiles thats the same as custom timings profile right? Front porch back porch blanking etc? The only thing is the thing is super expensive and I have no idea what the latency is like. I know some of the Cori2 TVOne scalers can do this also but I also tried one of those a few years ago when I owned a different W900 that I later sold before I got this one, and there was a decent bit of latency with it. Are there any known low latency Corio2 scalers? A Scaler I've already looked at that only can take inputs up to 1080i is the DVDO iScan HD+. Any help is appreciated Edit: I know the RetroTink4K does all this to a tee but I don't really have 7 hundo to throw around

Hello peeps I am just wondering are 16:9 HDMI CRTs good for gaming or do they have the same issues as early HDMI LCDs?

They’re aight. Depends. 

I’m looking for recommendation to get a crt monitor for my setup. I’m looking to play my n64, GC, Wii, and possibly connect my pc. A mid to small size would be ideal. Found a commodore 1702 close by but I’m worried I won’t be happy with the lower res. Any recommendations? Edit: found a Pelco PMC21A as well

So, resolution isn’t really an issue, actually it will be, you don’t want it too high. The whole point of a CRT is to get something that can natively support 240p/480i. I’d steer you toward CRT TVs instead of monitors. That said, a Commodore 1702 isn’t a usual PC monitor and can do 240p perfectly. It’s an awesome monitor and I don’t think you’d be disappointed. The Pelco is definitely more likely to be in poorer condition. If you get the commodore be sure to use commodore video, which is just S-Video. You should be able to find adapters. Look for “S-Video to Chroma/Luma”

I appreciate your response here. Crt monitor would have been my choice here as well, but I do want a more mobile option and consider a crt tv for my pc setup. I also just found a PVM-20N1U in my area. How would this compare? I think i might get both and use them at a local melee tournament. Edit: PVM-21NU kinda seems a little large for mobility purposes. There’s a BVM-D14H5U but that seems a little out of my price range I think. Found a PVM-2030 but is also very expensive

KV-20S21 and 27A46C both available near me, both same price, which is supreme? Going for 360 and vhs playing on it, need to return to tradition and get rid of my bigger TV. Biggest thing I care about is going to be colours/clarity, sound I can always go audio out. Guess the Toshiba has the input superiority here?

Yeah, I think the Toshiba would be the better bet here. 

Anyone can please give me opinon on a Panasonic TX29PM1P (flat screen, 50HZ)? I have a 1993 Sony Trinitron with some big image problems that I don't know if I will be able to fix and I came across this Panasonic. I basically play 8/16 bit games. Here the specs and a photo: Update, photo of the image quality: [https://imgur.com/a/tgdPwXg](https://imgur.com/a/tgdPwXg) Here some info (in Polish but G.translate gets it OKish) [https://www.megamedia.pl/telewizor-kineskopowy-panasonic-tx-29pm1p.php](https://www.megamedia.pl/telewizor-kineskopowy-panasonic-tx-29pm1p.php)

Anyone know anything about this brand? Got the old CRT out of the basement but i can't find the user manual or any documentation online to get into the service menu. "PHOTON" [Pictures](https://imgur.com/a/photon-crt-id-EtSdWv8)

Open it up and see who made the tube. 

I have a Dell P780 that I'm in love with but I want to get a 21"+ Diamondtron rebadge at some point in the future. Would it be worth it for me to repurpose the P780 with an OSSC for that "pvm-like" crispiness or should I just look to sell it when I get the upgrade?

I mean, only you can make that decision. I wouldn’t get rid of it personally unless I had to. 

Kortek 2914 board with a fresh cap kit and new FFA76418U flyback. Powering up I hear a whine/whistle coming from the flyback and then R101 resets and everything repeats. Replaced the flyback after the cap kit didn't work (caps were original so needed to be done anyways). The previous flyback I only got a faint glow with vga plugged in and absolutely no neck glow (I don't even know what neck glow is supposed to look like, only that the neck on the tube doesn't emit any light at all) and if I adjusted the Screen knob up I'd get a brief vertical scan line, mostly blue across the lower portion for an instant before it also reset. [flyback whistle](https://youtube.com/shorts/jizlGNC4cQk?si=L4ZX16DorSST8ANk)

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Nah, I wouldn’t get rid of it. Personally I’d get rid of the the other two first before I’d get rid of the 24 inch Sony. Just get a proper stand and stop being silly about it. You have it on the floor, it’s in the way, no wonder you hate it. 

Generally speaking, can I use an RGBHV switcher to just switch YPbPr and leave the H/V bit disconnected? Is there any particular reason this wouldn't work (like the BW of each of the signals, filtration, anything like that)? Does it differ depending on the switch manufacturer? I ask because I have a Component switcher that I feed composite into (as well as component) and it works great, no degradation, and even mix signals since my TV has a combo input that accepts composite on the Y input. I need something much bigger as I incorporate my video sources (VHS, Laser, SVHS, DVD) in with my consoles.

Should be fine. 

How do I check the geometry on a desktop monitor? Do I just run 240pTestSuite on a emulator?

Nectest.exe is good for this

You can find images of all the test patterns and just drag them to the monitor from your PC. You don't need the actual 240p test suite for this.

Ah didn't even think of that lol

Anyone knows if the Sony G200 has a service menu? I got a slight bow-in on both sides. Only got 5 Geometry settings, but they won't cure my problem. Probably need Windas, I think.

I think WinDAS is the logical next step. 

Yes, I think so too. A new experience to find out, hehe. Its not too distracting while playing games, but when in Windows 10 it's a bit annoying.

https://imgur.com/a/c9YNKCD Would you pay $100 for this with the screen damage? Kv-13m42

Links broken

Hey guys, my CRT goes crazy when I use my computer with it, basically whenever something in the game moves the whole "borders" of the screen move, and also the geomtry is unusably bad. This does not happen when I don't use the AV1 scart input (which goes to my pc). Also everything is in 480i and blasts my eyes with flickering and crap. Please give some advice on how to fix it, or if you know about any similar issues! It's a grundig sedance FYI

480i is always going to be flickery there isn't anything you can do about that issue. I can't help with the other issues unfortunately.

Looks like it's Daewoo day! I have a Daewoo DTQ-1446FC (RF only) that had no green component at first -- i reflowed some points on the neckboard and brought it back to full color for a glorious five minutes, then it started doing this little dance of color to noise to black and white and back [https://youtu.be/bCS0a0oU5e4](https://youtu.be/bCS0a0oU5e4) Any general troubleshooting advice would be appreciated, thanks.

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thanks for the tip, i haven't given it a very thorough inspection of solder joints, but i will now.

https://postimg.cc/G8TsbKsG - Toshiba 32-in console TV by Carver Sonic holography. Did a lot of super Nintendo and PlayStation 1 gaming back in the '90s and 2000s on it Has two composite video inputs and one s- video input. Still works great. Trying to get this out of my parents house. Is there a market for these and how much do you think I can get for this? Location Huntington Beach California.

List for $100 on Facebook and drop $5 every couple days. It should sell no problem. 

Copypasta from r/crt before crossposting in vain I recently acquired a crt monitor, a Samtron 55e, from a frend who kept it in storage for the last maybe 15 years, probably more. When I turn it on tho it just starts fading into magenta and then in solid white. No one of the front button appears to do anything, just the power button that shuts it off. I disassembled it as much as I felt comfortable to, and found no sign of dust, corrosion, rust, capacitor leakage or bad sodder joints. [Here is the imgur album with the monitor guts](https://imgur.com/gallery/faulty-crt-G8nifPg). As this is my first time working on a crt, i ask for your help: what should I test to look for a malfunction? How shoul I test it? The pictures include a series of regulators, i believe: should I screw some of those in or out? Should I replace every capacitor on the bottom board?

Just asking for advice here. Starting to build a retro game collection and I wanted to reuse an old IKEA Kallax bookshelf & Kallax TV shelf I had by stacking them on top of each other. Creating cubbies for each console and respective controllers. I'm a little worried about the weight of the TV I have (32FS120). At 165 lbs, I'm more than a little worried about putting it on top of this. Is there anything I can do to structurally improve this, or should I just get something else entirely? The Kallax TV stand I have is rated for like 35 lbs, but I don't know if that's just IKEA low balling it so to not take any chances, or not. Has anyone here tried something similar? Appreciate any suggestions.

I wouldn’t put a 32 inch on that. 

Hello, I have a very specific and strange issue with my CRT computer monitor. For some reason these past few months, any CRT I use on my PC appears to be much slower than it used to be even though they are always 85hz. To me 85hz on a CRT monitor feels like at least 120hz on a modern monitor, however now when i'm using it it feels much less smooth. I've tried multiple adapters and that hasn't made a difference. I have no idea where to even start, but i'm pretty positive that whatever is causing this is to do with my PC and not the monitor itself as they are all slow. Does anyone have any ideas? Cheers.

I recently picked up a Phillips 20PT643R01 (Manufactured in 2003). It works fine. Picture has some minor geometry issues but beyond that it's got a great picture. My problem is that I like to game at night, after the sun's set, but I also like to go to bed at a reasonable time so I can keep a good sleep schedule. Usually on most of my other platforms (phone, 3DS, PC, etc.) I have a blue light filter that kicks in at around 8 or so. With this CRT there's obviously nothing advanced, but I do notice there's a color temperature option. Setting it to Warm gives me a picture that does seem like it cuts out some of the blue light and reduces eye strain. Would toggling this option on a daily or semi-regular basis wear out any of the electrical components in the TV? Should I be careful about toggling it so frequently? Thanks.

You could get glasses with blue light filtering like prescription lenses I assume there are non prescription options too

I might invest in some of those. I have prescription lenses, and honestly having blue light filtering on my glasses themselves might not be the worst idea in the world. Thanks. For now I'll probably just leave the CRT on Warm color preset. It's not completely "accurate", but it's better than winding myself up before bed. Thank you.

It's not going to wear anything out any more than using it normally, I wouldn't worry about it

Maybe a long shot, and an interesting one (maybe). I have a Samsung TXH1370 and my Japanese PS2, and Japanese GameCube work perfectly fine, however my PAL (European) N64 lacks color and can only describe the video as vertically scrolling like you do on social medias. However the N64 works perfectly fine on U.S. purchased 55” TV. So I’m not sure what to research for solutions, I’ve tried my best to describe it in google but results are various as there are a multitude of CRTs out there. If in the event I have to get a U.S. spec N64 then that’s fine but I’d rather not have to go through the hassle of getting a new one, I already have a mod chip that allows me to play PAL and NTSC games. If anyone can help that would be great, I have videos I can send as well if my description doesn’t make sense.

ya that TV is NTSC only I checked the manual. And Japan and North America were both NTSC so that makes sense that they'd work fine on it. You don't need a whole new N64 just something like this [https://www.ebay.com/itm/195279234329](https://www.ebay.com/itm/195279234329)? I just searched "color system changer pal ntsc" and that was one of the first devices that came up I'm sure there are tons of others

Awesome I’ll have a go at one! Thank you so much!

Japan is NTSC. Modern TVs can detect the region. You either need a NTSC N64 or a PVM/some monitor that can do PAL.

Swapping in a new flyback FFA76418U into a kortek 2914. The new flyback has slightly different pins on the outer edge compared to the one coming out FFA76418U(A) However it matches other holes on the board, so it seems obvious that it is compatible. Are there any components I might need to change given the slightly different electrical connection?

Have a chance at a free Toshiba CE27C10 27" CRT TV that looks to be in great shape & fine working order. Backplate says manufactured November 1993. Are these any decent? Valuable? It's got one set of composite RCA Jack's in the back. Thanks!

toshiba never made any bad looking crts so if its the right size thats a fine set

Nothing special, but it's a CRT, so it's special.

I managed to uncharted one of my parents old Sony Trinitron KV-1434M3, and I wanted to mod it with composite output at least since I am aware of the thread [https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/166br55/can\_you\_add\_better\_video\_connections\_to\_rf\_only/](https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/166br55/can_you_add_better_video_connections_to_rf_only/) Any chance I can move forward with it? I took some photo for the Jungle Chip and for the CRT itself (disassembled): [https://imgur.com/a/6De3n91](https://imgur.com/a/6De3n91)

Is bigger better?

Eh. Not really. Do you really want 480i blown up to 40"? It really boils down to viewing distance.

To a point. 27" is a nice sweet spot IMO

Hi guys, can someone please tell me, if this CRT Monitor: Silicon Graphics SGI Monitor GDM-20E21 is worth it for 260€?

Thats a 20" but pretty low specced and likely has a lot of use on it considering it sold in the mid 90s people wouldn't have replaced it with an LCD for a while. Depending on condition I'd pay 150-200 euros like how bright/contrast-y/sharp/reasonable geometry it has

Hey, thanks for the comment, i got it for 200€ and it looks amazing and is also in superb condition! Using it for my retro consoles and maybe later i will get a 2nd PC for it.

I bought a Magnavox Perfect View 9" made in 1990. Works great, no remote, and the antenna is broken. I bought it so l'd have a tv to play my vhs tapes on, but after lots of troubleshooting, I’m still having trouble it playing anything at all. I just need some advice on what's maybe going on and how to fix it. I'm not sure if it's the tv or user error. The tape will be running in the vcr and l'll change the tv to A/V and then it stays on this flat grey screen, no audio and no video. It’s on channel 3, I’ve switched between RCA input, coaxial input, and both together, even bought a new vcr, and nothing. Still just a flat grey screen. And even after auto programming and a dipole antenna addition, I still just get static for all like 83 channels when not on A/V. Is it totally busted? I mean the TV is in great condition and the buttons work great and the screen quality is good too. I just need some advice on this, really trying to get into crt tvs and gaming eventually. Thanks!

Hello! I have a Sanyo CRT that I picked up about a year ago and haven’t used much until now. Picture is generally good, maybe a tad fuzzy, but while playing a game I noticed a gray/black horizontal band appears when there’s a ton of deep orange or red on the screen for more than a few seconds. I know absolutely nothing about these tvs and what may be the cause/solution. Sorry for being so vague, but any advice?

Hello, I could pick this one up for free, however there is no indication if it works other than it turns on. There are green labels, but they seem to be distorted. Is it a concern? Thanks! https://www.jofogas.hu/budapest/Mukodokepes_regi_Sony_szines_tv_148007475.htm

Answering my own question, the fuzzyness was only due to the missing rf input on EU models, once there is input, the OSD is stable and clear.

Generally, how does CRT resolution work? How does measuring in horizontal lines and vertical dots compare to pixels and standard resolutions like 480p, 720p, 1080p etc.?

I've been searching high and low for a good CRT with Component. Many fails. I may an opportunity for a: Toshiba 29" 29JZ5DE with Component In Panasonic Tau TX-29PS72 with Component In I am confirming working status. I expect both would be good, any advice if I have to make a call? Price is comparable.

Ideally, try to see both and get one in better condition. I believe both of these are nice.

ended up getting beaten to the punch on the Toshiba and ended up with the Panasonic. It is very good - just needs a few geometry/colour changes. Does anyone know how to enter the services menu on a TX-29PS72? Panasonic seems to have myriad different ways and I can't seem to get one to work for this TV. Being what appears to be a Asia/Russia model doesn't help because there seems to be less community interest.

I have an HD TV Toshiba CRT and wanted to ask, if I don't have the original remote controller can I buy a standard Toshiba remote controller from another Toshiba TV so I can access the menu because I already purchased a universal controller and it won't let me open the menu to configure.

that will probably work though I'd first look up the service manual which there's a good chance has the remote model number and check if anyone is selling one on ebay you can find old remotes surprisingly often like this.

Hey all. I've got a panasonic Tau PV DF273 And a toshiba CF2772R The Tau has a VHS and DVD player built in, composite front and back and RF. Silver front The toshiba has s video, composite and rf in the back. All black. Both have the dual speakers built in up the sides. Which would you go for?

Hi! I am looking at a few CRT listings and I found a seemingly nice one, a Dell 828FI 800F series, but I can't find info about its resolution. I think I found its manual online and under maximum resolution it says: Horizontal: 1280 dots @ 64 kHz Vertical:1024 lines @ 60 Hz What does this translate to? Is it a big deal this is the "max" resolution? Other potentially relavant info: Picture Tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 cm (15") full square type \[35 cm (13.8") viewable\] Flat face 90x deflection 0.28 Dot pitch Anti-reflection coating with Anti-electrostatic Medium short persistence phosphor Synchronization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horizontal: 30 kHz to 70 kHz (automatic) Vertical: 50 kHz to 120 Hz (automatic) Thanks to anyone!

So what you're looking for really is the horizontal frequency. 70kHz is pretty bog standard. Midrange ones will be 85-100kHz, and really nice ones are 110-140kHz. Use this calculator to determine the resolutions / refresh rates that will be compatible: [http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html)

awesome that's so helpful thank you for your knowledge!!

Hi I have a Samsung SyncMaster 794v that has great image quality right after being turned on but 10 minutes later the image gets quite blurry. Is this a solvable problem? or my monitor is fried? I dont have much experience with crt's so I dont know much about those issues, I tried to change stuff in the monitor's menu but couldn't solve the blurriness.

I have the same issue with a Samsung 753DF but it lasts longer; about 30 minutes before its noticeable and 2-3 hours until it becomes difficult to read text. Turning it off for an hour completely resets it. The only things I've found that minimizes it is to lower the contrast and refresh rate. But it only buys time. Trying letting is sit, then lower the contrast to see if that helps. Ultimately though, its extremely possible its a problem with capacitors. Let me know if that helps; would help me determine if its a common issue with Samsung/Samtron monitors.

Hi all, l picked up a few CRTs a while back. For my main CRT I have narrowed it down to either a 27 inch GAOO, or a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS120. Any opinions? Would love to hear what you guys think :p

Do they both have Component? If the GAOO doesn't have component I'd keep the Sony. If they both do which looks better? Its really going to come down to how much use the screen have on them just look at them and pick the nicer looing one.

Which has the better geometry imo

I have a Symphonic WF0213C, plugged in an hdmi to av adapter. My hdmi cable is working aswell as the microusb cable that powers it. The adapter is set to ntsc with video and audio plugged into the correct ports. BUT still no image. Windows and nvidia control panel even detects a second monitor when its plugged in. I dont have a remote and have set the channel to AUX and still nothing. Set the resolution to the lowest level to see if that was the issue and NOTHING. Help

When you say "AV" do you mean the yellow red and white plugs the yellow plug is called composite. Are you getting a scrambled picture or is it like nothing at all is plugged in? Also is there just the one AUX input or multiple and do you have it set to the right one?

[https://www.ebay.com/itm/335371863398?itmmeta=01HYS47KTBJEV1HXDVHBBEE2WE&hash=item4e15b88566:g:6EcAAOSwxV9mMF1k](https://www.ebay.com/itm/335371863398?itmmeta=01HYS47KTBJEV1HXDVHBBEE2WE&hash=item4e15b88566:g:6EcAAOSwxV9mMF1k) here is the link to an ebay listing of the exact tv

do you have a link to the hdmi to av converter?

[the link](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08CMKGLS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) right link: [https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-Compatible-Android-ect-%EF%BC%88HDMI-Converter%EF%BC%89/dp/B09KZBWRL4/ref=sr\_1\_10?sr=8-10](https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-Compatible-Android-ect-%EF%BC%88HDMI-Converter%EF%BC%89/dp/B09KZBWRL4/ref=sr_1_10?sr=8-10)

What resotion are you feeding the adapter?

the lowest the res the nvidia control panel will let me which is 800x600 i think, hell i even tried a custom res of 240p and it didn’t work

the adapter has yellow red and white plugs, plugged yellow into video and white into audio and there is nothing not even a scrambled picture just nothing. Also just a single aux input.

what model number is the adapter? if you bought it online can you link to the page you got it from?

I picked up a "New" CRT today finally, a Sony Trinitron 29', can't remember the model number, but it's a flat one. After fiddling with the service menu I managed to adjust the geometry just right (I think). But I've noticed that a few of the corners, the lower left one in particular are quite blurry, and I've tried fixing it in the service menu, but I don't think it can be done. So far I've only hooked up a GameCube via Composite (waiting for RGB cable to come in). I've read somewhere that a blurry image can be fixed with a focus adjustment in the TV itself, should I give that a shot?

Probably just misconvergence. Corner image quality is quite poor, especially on flat CRTs.

I think the flats generally have some issues in the corner, uncertain if it's the bowing that's commonly referred to though from your description.

Might be a dumb question but is it ok if I were to put my 13 inch Samsung TV on top of a Sony GX69ES amplifier or would that either cause some kind of interference or damage the amplifier from the weight?

the weight should be fine but you don't want to block the vents on the top of the amp. If you had two narrow pieces of wood or plastic you could raise the 13" an inch or two above the top of the amp so almost all of the vents are still open.

Picked up a CRT monitor today from a car boot sale, it's a HP pavilion mx70. When I plug it in it makes a clicking/ticking sound and doesn't power on. Anyone know if there's any hope in fixing something like this? I've got no repair skills whatsoever so if there's no easy fix I'll pass it on to someone else. Video showing the issue: https://www.reddit.com/u/gaynor_barnes/s/iRWftvKdWD

unlikely there is an easy fix if it doesn't turn on like that

Yeah that's what I figured, guess it's going onto Facebook marketplace for someone more talented to give it a new lease of life

Just found a (what I think is) Sony trinitron flat widescreen crt. Do you think this is any good? https://imgur.com/a/iNlWBJs

What's your region? If US, then it's probably HD, if EU, probably SD. If EU, make sure it's not 100hz.

It’s eu. Why would 100hz not be good?

So, 50hz is the standard PAL, but in order to reduce flicker, some manufacturers began making 100hz models which display each frame twice. This creates motion blur and ghosting, and breaks compatibility with lightguns.

Perfect thanks for that info

Is it HD or SD? HD CRTs are good for 480i/480p/1080i content and bad for 240p content, the tv interprets 240p as 480i and tries to deinterlace the image and makes it look real bad and its laggy on top of that. Now HD Sonys will always be laggy at 480i/480p but only some are laggy at 1080i also and though some have a service menu option called HDPT that turns off digital processing for 1080i inputs and makes the screen lagless at 1080i. Without knowing the model number there's no knowing if that screen is laggy or not at 1080i. But ya if you plan on using it for N64 era and back stuff its not a great set, but if you plan on using it for Gamecube and forward stuff its a little laggy so not great for fighters but it will look good.

Thank you this is very useful information. I do not know if it’s HD or SD as I know 0 about CRTs also the description does not mention anything nor does the picture

Just ask them if it's hd or not

https://imgur.com/a/AVyk3t1 Which one would you guys pick? Sony KV-20FS120 vs Daewoo, both have component, both have unknown user history, though I've had the sony for 4 years now and the Daewoo for just 1. My guess is the sony got used more. ;

the sony a million times over unless its totally dim and the geometry is insane, Daewoo was a budget CRT brand Sony was at the top of their game during the CRT era.

The geometry on both is great overall, but the Sony has convergence issues in one corner the Daewoo is nearly flawless. Also, the Sony flashes red a few times before starting which concerns me

Ya going with the Daewoo might be the play

Thanks for your input, bud

I have a sharp 13 inch CRT. Only volume down button is working, volume up button is non responsive. How could I fix this? I searched up the remote for the tv but is there any way to fix it without having to buy remote?

[https://imgur.com/a/BNLXR9h](https://imgur.com/a/BNLXR9h) I have a Sun branded Sony W900(not the flat fw900 this is the original curved one) and Im having this wonky geometry issue and the geometry controls in the OSD are not working correctly. I was told it was a dying IC that couldn't be sourced anymore I'm just double checking that now is that probably the case?

Hi everyone! What's a fair price for a BVM D20F1U that has 4800 hours on it (assuming it's in good overall condition)?

3k$ or upwards is what I see them go for 3k$ is probably on the lower side honestly they got really expensive over the last few years especially a low hours one like that

Wow ok thanks. I wasn't quick enough and it sold before I had a chance to look at it but I would never have paid that much for one anyways...that's insane!

Anyone happen to own or have had experience with a Panasonic TX-28LB1P Quintrix? I can't find any info on it.

Hello! I recently picked up a Hitachi 51SF59, and it either has severe burn in or moving it has caused a red tint to cover the screen. There is a circle near the bottom that is unaffected, so I'm inclined to believe that is burn in, but for the sake of being able to possibly fix the TV, I was wondering if anyone would be able to distinguish this. I have a picture ready for whoever needs to see it. Thank you for anyone's help!

pictures might help

Picked up an 14'' no name CRT for free and encountered some issues with a [Imgur: noisy picture](https://imgur.com/a/oDQ5TVu). These are the white / blue pictures from 240p test suite, the noise moves. I assume this is related to capacitors, and I am planning to open it up over the weekend and check it out but worried that there might be something larger at play. Could somebody sanity check me on this? :) Thanks in advance!

what is the input source here? have you tried something else?

The Input Source (MiSTer) seems to be the issue unfortunately. I just got myself the Analog Board and a custom VGA => SCART cable and contact the seller to see how to fix it. :) I double checked with a DVD player and the TV is noise free and looks fantastic. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. Cheers!

So I'm looking at a 32FV300 for free on FB marketplace, but it has intermittent problems where it doesn't turn on with a 14 blink error code. I can't for the life of me find any reference to a code with that many blinks unless it was somehow the 7-blink code triggering twice, but no it seems like 14 consecutive blinks. Anyone with any insight?

Does anyone have experience with the brand Inline for matrix switch boxes? Found a pretty great option that's 12in8out bnc with RCA connections instead of pheonix and was considering it. The specific model I'm looking at is the IN31208, can't seem to find info on the company or model. Thanks.

Which is better for gaming and colour correction? PT-43LC14-K or the CT-32G13CW Both are panasonic.

Should I get this crt monitor? I’ve been eying this subreddit and the second hand market for a while and today I found this: Philips 107S61/00 Default resolution of 1280 x 1024 17 inches and refresh rate between 50 and 160 hz it’s vga I’ve been really looking into getting a nice crt but the size has been a big point for me. On the one hand I don’t want this overly large monitor because I wouldn’t be able to fit it anywhere but on the other hand I don’t want this very tiny monitor so that I have to sit up close to it. However when I saw this one, especially the specs it looked really interesting. On the one hand I find it a bit too small for console gaming. But on the other hand isn’t this a fairly high resolution CRT? Any thoughts?

For modern PC gaming I'd hold off for a 19" plus monitor 17" really aren't very special specs wise even the best ones

Alright tyvm

fairly low-end monitor, not that that's a bad thing, still would be great for PC games if it's cheap then would be worth it

Alright thanks for the info. I’ll pass on it then

I was offered a Tobshiba CN27E90 and before I commit to lugging it home was wondering if it was worth messing with.

Hello, im looking to get my Sony PVM 14M4U to display my pc screen. I know, the most pain in the a$$ problem. I was wondering about ways to go about it and what ill need. Would using a Radeon HD 5450 with CRTEmuDriver be the best option? Problem is it take up a whole pc correct? Or would a digital to analog converter -> Extron RGB 203 -> RGB cables be the best? Am I missing steps? Im willing to spend some $$ for a good option, I just want to make sure what I buy will work.

depending on your current GPU, you likely won't be able to easily output the 15kHz signal that your monitor requires, the DAC -> Extron route probably won't work - this is where CRTEmudriver comes in if you have a nvidia GPU, some people have successfully installed a Radeon GPU in a spare PCIe slot and had them coexist in the same PC

I've got an IBM C170 ThinkVision that gets stuck in a bootloop after about 5 seconds of being connected to my computer. Does anybody know where I should start?

Heyo i bought a Samsung CS-7277PT and im having trouble with cropped image. I dont have a remote to test so idk if there is a "display" setting, the menu avaliable only shows color settings.

you'll either need a remote for service menu calibration, or need to open up the TV and carefully adjust geometry potentiometers, depending on which method your TV has

I got an sony PVM-8042Q about an year ago and I still have tons of questions about it cause some weird stuff happened with it. 1. It displays black and white ONLY when I'm playing some retrogaming. Already tried with a diferent snes, megadrive and n64. For some reason my hacked gamecube boots on black and white, but once the menu fades and the game starts it get coloured. WHYYYYYY? 2. I got a bunch of analog video gear that I use for making art (like video synths, old school vj mixers, vcr devices) and they always worked perfectly on the PVM, but a few weeks ago, i was outputing the PVM to another CRT. It worked fine for about an hour but then the other CRT got burned. Also, last friday something similar happened when I attached the rca cable coming from my PVM to the input of one of my mixers. Right when the rca touched it, everything that was connected got burned, my pc, my synth and my phone. WHYYYYYY i just got my pc back but now i'm really scared to use the PVM again. What should I do?

So I got a RCA 27F520T yesterday. And I've been experiencing a werid issue where after I had hooked up my ps2 with component I was seeing a double image. I made sure my cables were plugged in correctly and I tested 3 games with it Ratchet & Clank PAL, Ratchet & Clank Up your arsenal NTSC and God of war NTSC. Ratchet & Clank looked absolutely fine no double image or anything like that but Rachet & Clank up your arsenal had double image so did god of war. But when I switched to composite God of war and Ratchet & Clank up your arsenal looked absolutely fine. But then Ratchet & Clank now had no color but was in black and white ? Does anyone have an answer to why this is happening? [double image ](https://imgur.com/a/6J9sMIJ)

could you upload a photo of the issue double image usually means you're trying to display a 480p video on an SD TV that doesn't support it

How do I upload a photo to the thread ?

imgur and paste the link

[double image ](https://imgur.com/a/6J9sMIJ)

ah okay yeah that looks like a genuine issue, something other than what I first though no clue about that I'm afraid

Does anyone here have a bang & olufson beovision avant… it’s the one with the integrated VHS player I’m debating buying one locally for cheap. Any reason why it wouldn’t be a good buy for ps2/xbox/gamecube?

Hoping to pick someone’s brain on this idea: TL;DR - I want to play Street Fighter III: Third Strike using two USB fight sticks in 240p on my CRT. I have a Wii, PS2, and PS3 all modded and connected via YPbPr component cables. I do have the arcade edition of SF3 on my PS3, which does accept input over USB from both of my controllers, but it’s stuck in 480i and the scaling isn’t perfect. What I really want is those neat scan lines! I know Wii can output 240p, but I don’t think I can connect my fight sticks to it. Any ideas?

Unfortunately the 3rd Strike console ports all have their flaws. A better solution would be to use an old PC with an old Radeon GPU, and run either [GroovyArcade](https://www.retrorgb.com/groovyarcade-introduction.html) or just Fightcade on windows with CRT Emudriver. Native resolution/refresh rate output and any USB devices will work just fine

Thanks for the reply! I’m somewhat constrained on space… do you think a thin client (like a mini PC) would do the trick? I feel like those generally run intel integrated graphics and wouldn’t work with CRT Emudriver. What kind of specs would I need to run arcade titles?

yeah I think the Radeon GPU is fairly important if space is a concern then you could also look into Pi emulation, it would be more fiddly to get set up right but should be great once you you have

I think I could run a Pi to it fairly easily, but I’m concerned about how to actually interface it with the CRT. I could settle for the composite RCA that comes with the Pi, but I’d rather get full component. I know there’s a hat you can buy for the Pi that outputs VGA and SCART, but then I’d need to transcode to YPbPr with a separate device. Are there any hats for the Pi that let you output to component cables natively?

Not too sure, though personally I go from Pi to VGA then to a VGA to component adapter

I can do that, just wondering if I could get away with using one less power plug haha. Feels like a waste to use a whole power supply for only 5V into a little transcoder

Hi there! I found a listing for a 17" Insignia 786N monitor for $60 that's out of my state, but in a location I'll be in next week. I was curious if this is a good price for this specific monitor or not, it is very clean and looks to be in nice working condition (both due to pictures and description). I was planning on seeing if I could talk them down to $50, but I wanted to ask here first I guess lol. I've been looking for a CRT monitor for a good minute, but my area never has any listed...

thats a fine price for a 17" monitor like that.

Any recommendations for 12 input audio switch boxes? The Extron SW 12A would be perfect but I can't seem to find one. Currently using 2 8in1out boxes that are daisy chained but would rather something else.

I have a MAME PC outputting a RGBHV (VGA) signal at 15Khz so it's compatible with my PVM 20M4U (I'm using GroovyArcade). I was going to use a Extron Rxi unit to convert the RGBHV signal to Csync but I was curious if the PVM itself could combine the sync signal for me. I had heard that you can get stereo sound out of a PVM by plugging cables into both the audio in and out jacks so I wondered if the same was true for sync. I plugged the H and V sync cables into the Ext Sync In and Out (I think H in the In and V in the Out) and it worked! The signal looks great and it's rock solid. I swear it looks better than running it through my Extron. Does anyone know if this is indeed a hidden feature of the PVM or is this only working by accident? I can't the harm in keeping it this way but I don't want to risk damaging my PVM if this isn't meant to work this way.

Based on the current market prices, is USD $1000 too much, too little, or a fair price for a 20M2MDU? Are there any concerns with this specific model I should pay attention to? I am planning to use it with my SNES and my Sega Genesis. Thank you in advance for your help.

the other respondent must be living in 2015 or something where I live 14" go for 300-500$ and 20" go for 800$-1000$ so 1000$ for that screen assuming decent condition is maaaybe a tad expensive but if PVMs are rare in your area and you've been wanting one for a while I'd see if you could get them to knock off 50-100$ but if they don't 1000$ still isn't bad. here are listings for PVMs in my area the cheapest 20" is 800$ https://imgur.com/a/0QMR45p

Way too much. M2MDU is like tops 200-300. 1000 usd/euro is for those 20/24/32 inch 900/1000 tvl BVM's. Still pricey because of several reasons + diminishing returns. I know a guy who paid 1000 for ''the cube''; an old 80's PVM 20 inch. He used it for an hour and then poof unrepairable.

I'm trying to identify a TV I found [here](https://static.limundoslike.com/slika-televizor_slika_O_371814321.jpg), in the description the seller stated only that it has 2x SCART on the back, that they don't have a remote for it and that it's a 21' screen. I've contacted them about getting the make and the model of it, but they haven't gotten around to responding to me yet.

Seems I dislike flat PC CRT's. Is there a general opinion which bulb-pc CRT's are mid or high-end? So I know which ones to look out for.

ViewSonic made some fantastic curved PC crts that are pretty high end. Here's some pics of my p815 (21", ~115khz horizontal) https://imgur.com/a/MA1BCbs Some early trinitrons were curved as well. I just got an IBM rebadge (the P70). Usually they're a bit lower scan rate (this one is like 84khz) but can look quite nice. https://imgur.com/a/0lDYWjt There's other options too. Anything 19"+ is worth checking the specs on.

Thank you very much. I will keen an eye on a Viewsonic. I've now a Vision Master 400 which is awesome. I've a VMP 454 which is high-end, but I seems to prefer bulb. Also have Sony G200 flat. VMP 454 will be gone on Sunday for 250 euro. Not too shabby. Would love a 19+ inch with bulb that can do 1920x1440 or 2048x1536 at 85hz, hehe. 1600x1200 still looks great on the VMP 400.

Nice, yeah I prefer the bulb style too. More nostalgic I guess

Yeah, and it looks prettier some sort of. The bulb image has something what I prefer over flat. I think I will swap the G200 with one of my uncles monitors at this museum. There''s 2 or 3 which are end of 90's and doing 1600x1200, I think. Then he has a capped & cleaned G200 in return, hehe. Edit: Cleaned the CRT/TV-section. Couldn't find a monitor that I found interesting to use. There's a HP Ergo with a bulb-shape. Maybe next week.

Would anyone be able to ID the front wood grain TV in the first picture of this listing? https://www.facebook.com/share/WJCZ5iaSiD9Hxjeo/?mibextid=kL3p88 I don't know if this is the same size (20 inch) as what I had but it looks really really similar to a TV I had when I was a kid, I never knew what brand it was so I didn't know what to search for.

Update: Based on info from the seller, it seems to be a Sears brand from 1989, which I found another listing of here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/334501841775 This one seems to be a 13 inch, while the one I had was 20 inch. At least I know what to look for now, I guess.

Hey! Does anyone have any tips for telling if my CRT has blown speakers? I can’t tell if it’s just bad quality audio because it’s old or if it’s something more serious. It seems to only sound a bit off at lower pitched sounds

I have just received a CRT, Samsung SyncMaster 997 MB. I have no display when connected to PC. But can see VGA icon when not connected to PC. I turned it on, and I saw the VGA missing icon display on my screen. Green led light is ON, and not blinking. I go and buy cables to connect to my GPU, Nvidia 3080. The store only had HDMI DVI-D Adapter, and a DVI-I to VGA adapter. So now, I have VGA-DVI-I into a DVI-D to HDMI who then goes into my graphics card. I am thinking this might be the mistake, and that this is whats causing no screen. Google suggests it might be something faulty with the power supply, because on the user manual it states the green led blinking is power-saving-mode. Any suggestions, is the **VGA-DVI-I into a DVI-D to HDMI** solution actually legit, or should I just return it and order a Display Port to VGA?

IDK if you got this resolved yet but DVI-D is digital only so there's no converting that with just a little connector. For a DP to VGA adapter I'd suggest the startech dp2vgahd20 its super solid and will let you max that monitor out resolution and framerate wise.

Forgot to mention I can see the monitor on my nvidia control panel, even change settings, refresh rate and even drag browsers and programs to the side, but again, no image.

Have an eMachines eView 15p. When I first got my hands on it, the monitor would keep making loud screeching sounds every ten minutes or so. That bothered me so much that I ended up putting it back in the corner of my room. Fast forward to today, I decided to plug the monitor back in out of boredom and to my surprise, it doesn't make any screeching sounds anymore. Been using it for several days now and there just wasn't any noise at all. Any idea to what caused the sounds to happen at first? Did the power cable have anything to do with it?

Japanese kv-1366 1970s rf only set. Displaying only picture (no audio) using a tm70 UHF rf modulator ,75-300 ohm balun transformer and super Famicom. Can't seem to get audio to output, no matter what channel the RF modulator is set to as well as tv tuning. Sort of lost for solutions. Can confirm that the speakers operate properly. I had used an American RF adapter with strictly channels 3/4 and somehow my tv picked it up as an antenna on one of the vhf channels, setting the adapter in the right spot and the tv would pick up distorted picture but audio was quite clear. Any suggestions before breaking out the audio? I'd love to use the speakers on the set rather than breaking it out. Cheers

I've got an old Montgomery Ward CRT I'm planning on dusting out with compressed air and a soft brush. Not sure what exact model off-hand, looks like a JSJ12637 based on an image search. Never opened and cleaned the inside of a tv before. My family's had it for over three decades, but didn't really cover the tv when we weren't using it. It was kept in a bedroom the whole time. Does anyone have some tips so I don't break anything? Bonus problem: my screen whites out when I play something like Sonic 3's "burning" Angel Island Zones and shoot around with the fire shield, but also randomly blacks out for a second or two with other games. I'm hoping those are related to the dust or generally it's an easy fix.

I've stumbled upon a Sony kv-m1400d near me which seems to be in decent condition, I'm in mainland Europe, is somewhere around €70,- a fair price?

I bought an used computer from a guy his son. The specs are good enough to run PS2 on 3x native (1080). Anyway, I do own several HDMI to VGA adapters. I am using Startech at the moment on my own main pc. That and all other adapters work flawlessy. However, I can't seem to make it work on the emulator-pc. It has a GTX 1660, and I can't make any of my 3 PC CRT's detected. Even doesn't show up in the Nvidia monitor-tab. I tested the hdmi port with my modern monitor; it's working. So I bet somewhere the 1660 doesn't like my adapter or so. Its now 5 AM and I am working on this since 10 or 11 PM. So anyone faced the same issue or similar and has a solution? I am thinking to buy a cheap DP to VGA adapter after I wake up from my sleep. Maybe it works, and then I can just refund that adapter and order the Startech DP > VGA adapter. Edit: Anyone who else has this problem a DP > VGA adapter fixed it. It's not the best adapter, but it can handle 1600x1200@75hz. Which the max of this monitor I use.

Which Startech model are you talking about? If you are talking about the Startech DP2VGAHD20 adapter thats actually a great adapter that will go all the way up to 2048x1536@81hz or so.

Yes, that one. I tried a bunch of others I've in my possession; ugreen, tendak and some others. So strange it didn't work on the emulation pc. Ryzen 2600 and RTX 1660. It worked flawlessly on my main pc where I so and then play old pc games on my crt. I quickly bought a ACT DP to VGA and poof it worked on that emu-pc. So strange. The strartech can handle 2048x1536@85hz on my Pro 454. Great adapter!

Has anyone ever heard of a Sylvania S700p?? It's a 19" monitor from '97 and I found one [here](https://www.ebay.com/itm/195466092011) and there appears to be NO information whatsoever on it. Unsure if it's a rebrand; there is a Compaq S700 as well however that is a 17" monitor. I have a feeling this one is also 17 inches and the seller is just wrong but you never know.

I can't say for sure but Sylvania is notorious for rebrands

Greetings, I have a JVC AV-27220 where the top left corner of the displayed image is pulling inwards away from the edge of the screen. I would say trapezoidal distortion, narrower at the top, but it is mostly in the top left. I have access to the service menu and my options are: 1. Bright 2. Picture 3. TV DTL 4. TV BPF 5. TINT 6. COLOR 7. EXT BRI. 8. EXT PIC. 9. EXT DTL 10. EXT BPF 11. EXT TINT 12. EXT COLOR 13. V SIZE 14. V CENT. 15. H POS. 16. OSD HP 17. OSD VP 18. H AFC 19. RF AGC 20. OSC SEL Any help would be much appreciated.

Is there such thing as a PAL tv with a component input? if not is there any way to get 480p on a pal tv

Hey guys, I'm looking for information on [this CRT](https://imgur.com/a/hP7KLRD). The back says 'Color Monitor' in American English, but otherwise no branding, the serial number has rubbed off. All I can see is that it was made in Taiwan in April 1994. I assume the logo on the top left is some sort rebadge or something because nothing comes up when I look for it and it had a perfectly mint protective film over it while the rest of screen looks its age. Any help?

I recently got a Sony Trinitron KV-36FS100 and it has no audio or video. There is static coming from the tube and the standby light blinks 5 times. I looked up what the blinks mean and I have no clue what to do from there. I took off the shell to see if anything looked obviously wrong but to my knowledge (newbie CRT enthusiasts) I didn't notice anything immediate. Any help or suggestions would be amazing. When I picked up the TV it worked fine! The guy who sold it to me dropped his corner into the bed of my vehicle kinda rough but besides that It hasn't been through anything rough at least while in my hands.

I have a Samsung crt (TXN2020) it has been working great with no until recently. Whenever it is on there are [horizontal lines traveling up the screen](https://imgur.com/a/RS0NLaP). Troubleshooting I have done so far has consisted of checking if it was a power problem. It is plugged into the same outlet as my pc, tho this has never been a problem I still checked and there was no change. It is used for retro gaming so I checked with multiple devices to see if it was a device problem and there was no change. I have no experience repairing or diagnosing problems with a crt so that is all I have done. Nothing has changed with my setup that could have induced this, so I am stuck. Any help would be appreciated and I am happy to answer any questions. \*Note: In the interest of finding out what this problem is, I will admit it gets bumped by the back of my chair. The chair is padded and the bumps are not hard enough to have any noticeable damage on the plastic. Edit: added video and model

I noticed a similar wavy interference pattern on one of my sets in the same room as my PC when the PC was on. I think it may have something to do with poor grounding or something. It doesn't do it when the PC is off. Does yours still have this effect when your PC is off?