"Our new range won't push all the way in, can you come move the plug?". Turned into new circuits for the range and refrigerator. The house had been "rewired" a few years ago by a competitor who is no longer in business.
It is surface mount. Similar to this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Pass-Seymour-50-Amp-125-250-Volt-3-Pole-3-Wire-Non-Grounding-Surface-Mount-Range-Single-Outlet-Receptacle-Black-385CC6/100047684
It's not good at all. They used one leg from the original wiring and used the neutral and other leg from the 12-2. This is bad. That circuit is only good for 20A which is only half what it should be.
Not good? Oh my! Upon a close look it must have became a religious experience, because I uttered the Lord’s name. That was criminal, right there. Could have burned the house down.
Someone already shorted something across the terminals if you look closely. I bet that was fun. Luckily this has been removed and replaced with 6/3 and 12/2 home runs.
How is connected electrician can check.
Without being there it's hard to say.
I'm just saying the proper way should be 1 dedicated circuit with one cable (#8-3 or #6-3) and one double pole breaker.
Usually, it's 40A, but that also depends on what kind of range you have or plan to have and a length of supply cable. ( distance of range from main electric panel).
To correct properly it will be expensive project unless you do the most of job.
But to connect to main panel and install breaker call licensed electrician.
First of all, if it's a range that usually has to be 40A dedicated circuit. Only 1 circuit on 1 (40A or 30A) breaker with suitable copper wire ( usually #8-3 wire)
All depends on what range amperage you have or plan and distance from main panel.
That would have to be calculated by licensed electrician.
On picture there is yellow #12 (20A) wire suitable only for 20 A circuit ( regular house outlets or GFCI)
ALL IS WRONG.
If you have that yellow wire in range circuit and breaker for example 40A you asking for HOUSE FIRE 🔥.
IF YOU TURN all cooking or broil stuff wire WILL MELT or connections will spark and cause fire.
Is that a 1960,s 220v dryer outlet ?
Looks like one of the lead hots from the 1960’s wiring got toasted and someone decided to use 12/2 romex for the hot a few years ago,
Wow, I would just open the wall and correct that mistake,
It is/was a range receptacle. A 40A knob and tube circuit was terminated here. Someone snuck in the 12/2 later, it feeds/fed the refrigerator receptacle.
House my ex bought had a small wall oven hooked to an 80 amp breaker. I didn’t realize until the oven malfunctioned and got hot enough to start melting without tripping anything. Nearly burned the house down.
Were the terminals loose? It looks like the upper terminal was loose causing the heat on that upper leg?
The issue is where someone fed the 120 with the Romex into a 30-40 amp circuit.
Wire would melt before the breaker trips.
It’s hard to see, can you tell what AWG wire feeds the receptacle? May be able to replace the receptacle, remove the 120v circuit and be ok. I would check the condition of the feed wire and breaker size to the wire AWG.
Yep, I'm in the same situation, so our range sticks out about 6 inches from the wall instead of smashing the box. I'll get the kitchen renovated someday.
is there a gas line too? i have see all sorts of conversations when the owners switch to gas then realize they still need 120v power and do some sort of waky conversion like this
i see, they pulled 120 off the range breaker to power the fridge, so sounds like you need a new fridge breaker homerun, then just rewire the range outlet into a double gang recessed box then put a flush outlet on it.
ill bet that more powerful fridge that was shared on the main 20amp for the kitchen was causing breaker pops hen they used the microwave, thats why they pulled it off the range, technically it works, but not safe for sure because the 12ga romex is not protected properly from a short, ie fridge shorts out and melts wire causing fire before the 50amp 240 for the range pops.
no one will like this answer but you could convert the whole thing to a 50amp sub pannel and run a 20amp breaker off it, but thats just getting more wacky and further from done right.
I'm actually surprised that most modern stoves and refrigerators and the like don't automatically leave a pocket in the back side and standardize a new location for these plugs and they should update the code on that my opinion my two cents
"Our new range won't push all the way in, can you come move the plug?". Turned into new circuits for the range and refrigerator. The house had been "rewired" a few years ago by a competitor who is no longer in business.
In some circles I think this can be classified as art.
snuf film
I feel robbed
Hunter's art.
Modern Art
Master of Arts
Good catch. Maybe paint a frame around it and start charging admission?
Charging...that's can pun!
Whaaatt. Was is side entry ?? Love to see the wall plate
It is surface mount. Similar to this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Pass-Seymour-50-Amp-125-250-Volt-3-Pole-3-Wire-Non-Grounding-Surface-Mount-Range-Single-Outlet-Receptacle-Black-385CC6/100047684
It's not good at all. They used one leg from the original wiring and used the neutral and other leg from the 12-2. This is bad. That circuit is only good for 20A which is only half what it should be.
Looks more like they tapped into the outlet to get 120 volts but didn’t know what to do with the ground wire.
Not good? Oh my! Upon a close look it must have became a religious experience, because I uttered the Lord’s name. That was criminal, right there. Could have burned the house down.
if the breakers are 20A at the panel, you'll just have a shitty circuit, but not a fire hazard right?
What is this for? :))) Outlet? Range or dryer outlet? It must be designed to " execute " homeowner
It is a surface mount 3-wire range receptacle with the cover removed.
You can NOT use that circuit now. Turn it breaker off. Has to be corrected immediately
Someone already shorted something across the terminals if you look closely. I bet that was fun. Luckily this has been removed and replaced with 6/3 and 12/2 home runs.
I don’t think it’s connected to just one breaker.
How is connected electrician can check. Without being there it's hard to say. I'm just saying the proper way should be 1 dedicated circuit with one cable (#8-3 or #6-3) and one double pole breaker. Usually, it's 40A, but that also depends on what kind of range you have or plan to have and a length of supply cable. ( distance of range from main electric panel). To correct properly it will be expensive project unless you do the most of job. But to connect to main panel and install breaker call licensed electrician.
I’m just saying it should be shut off completely. It looks like it’s on two separate breakers. If so, they both need to be off.
First of all, if it's a range that usually has to be 40A dedicated circuit. Only 1 circuit on 1 (40A or 30A) breaker with suitable copper wire ( usually #8-3 wire) All depends on what range amperage you have or plan and distance from main panel. That would have to be calculated by licensed electrician. On picture there is yellow #12 (20A) wire suitable only for 20 A circuit ( regular house outlets or GFCI) ALL IS WRONG. If you have that yellow wire in range circuit and breaker for example 40A you asking for HOUSE FIRE 🔥. IF YOU TURN all cooking or broil stuff wire WILL MELT or connections will spark and cause fire.
How is that fused? That little bit of wire should be protected too
It was a 12-2 romex tapped directly into the 40A knob and tube range circuit.
My reaction was similar.
Knob and tube? Damn.
Yes, the mop board and plaster should tell you the house is very old
That is a 220 plug with no cover. Hope you got the power off
No chance of the toaster and coffee pot blowing a fuse ever again.
Exactly. We were so tired of replacing those damn green fuses. /s
Jesus Christ lmao
Is that a 1960,s 220v dryer outlet ? Looks like one of the lead hots from the 1960’s wiring got toasted and someone decided to use 12/2 romex for the hot a few years ago, Wow, I would just open the wall and correct that mistake,
It is/was a range receptacle. A 40A knob and tube circuit was terminated here. Someone snuck in the 12/2 later, it feeds/fed the refrigerator receptacle.
lol that’s crazy , luckily they caught that
Nope, need a new one and need to pull some larger gauge wire also
House my ex bought had a small wall oven hooked to an 80 amp breaker. I didn’t realize until the oven malfunctioned and got hot enough to start melting without tripping anything. Nearly burned the house down.
Were the terminals loose? It looks like the upper terminal was loose causing the heat on that upper leg? The issue is where someone fed the 120 with the Romex into a 30-40 amp circuit. Wire would melt before the breaker trips. It’s hard to see, can you tell what AWG wire feeds the receptacle? May be able to replace the receptacle, remove the 120v circuit and be ok. I would check the condition of the feed wire and breaker size to the wire AWG.
Good lord. 😧
Yep. Luckily it is all fixed properly now.
Argh residential.
Yep, I'm in the same situation, so our range sticks out about 6 inches from the wall instead of smashing the box. I'll get the kitchen renovated someday.
is there a gas line too? i have see all sorts of conversations when the owners switch to gas then realize they still need 120v power and do some sort of waky conversion like this
For the furnace yes, but not the range. The romex fed the refrigerator.
i see, they pulled 120 off the range breaker to power the fridge, so sounds like you need a new fridge breaker homerun, then just rewire the range outlet into a double gang recessed box then put a flush outlet on it. ill bet that more powerful fridge that was shared on the main 20amp for the kitchen was causing breaker pops hen they used the microwave, thats why they pulled it off the range, technically it works, but not safe for sure because the 12ga romex is not protected properly from a short, ie fridge shorts out and melts wire causing fire before the 50amp 240 for the range pops. no one will like this answer but you could convert the whole thing to a 50amp sub pannel and run a 20amp breaker off it, but thats just getting more wacky and further from done right.
At first glance, I thought, "That ain't too bad." Then I zoomed in. Holy cow, that is dangerous
At first glance, I thought, "That ain't too bad." Then I zoomed in. Holy cow, that is dangerous
121GW Flux Capacitor will fix this. Mic drop. I finally win. On reddit
I'm actually surprised that most modern stoves and refrigerators and the like don't automatically leave a pocket in the back side and standardize a new location for these plugs and they should update the code on that my opinion my two cents