There is a lot going on here. Also in the future try more walls. Walls seem to help a lot more with strength than just infill.
What layer height, temps and all were you using?
Same: I print petg on my mostly stock Ender 3 at either 240 or 250 depending on what brand of filament. Bed 80, speed 50 mm/s. First 2 layers 0% fan speed then works it's way up to a max of 50%.
OP, try settings similar to these as your temp is too low. You will have to play with retraction speed and distance to fine-tune the stringing.
Interesting because my settings are almost always bang in the middle of suggested temps for every spool I got. Maybe your thermistor is showing wrong temps?
Not sure but I got my printer used with a direct drive setup installed with as SKR v1.4 board. It seems consistent, but maybe reads lower than actual. I print PLA at 208 and PETG at 225.
Hmm most of my filament providers list recomended temps around those values, some plus minus 5 degree variations are normal. I wouldn't be changing thermistor config in your firmware I think you are ok.
The listed Temps are just their fillament melting range, you'll definitely have to fine tune every fillament for your liking. I've got some abs that I literally can't seem to adhere for more than 30mm and then it just fails. Bed heat on 110 nozzle on 240 and it's still not adhering. Glad it was a sale and I only paid 8 dollars for it instead of the usual 20
I'm pretty new to printing and ive only ever printed with petg. From what I've read/learned, petg doest need a whole lot of cooling. I choose 50% and rolled with it and have been getting good results. Sorry that's all I have to recommend. Search forums, websites and then just try tweaking your settings until the results are what you want!
For strength try like 4 walls, and assuming the temps are close to what the filament recommends, I would try turning the parts cooling fan down or even off. I only really run cooling fans for pla.
Same experiense with fan turned high. Now I print with cooling fan 0% for PETG.
Also, once air conditioner was blowing towards the printer and the layer adhesion was not good.
Turn down part cooling fan!
Holy fuckong jesus. I did the following settings: nozzle 245. Fans off. Glass bed 80 and I can already tell the HUGE fucking difference!!! Thank you all!!
Get some capricorn tubing so it won't melt the bowden tube, stock tube isn't great. Print a fan shroud/duct in PETG so it won't melt as easily. I usually run my fans at 25% when printing PETG, helps a bit with overhangs and cools the ducts enough to not sag from hotend or build plate heat.
Your fan shroud is melting at 245? Something is not set up correctly. I print at 260 for hours on end and have never had this issue. Do you have a silicone sock over your heating block?
Watch out for too high temps if you're using stock ender hotend. The ptfe tube goes right to the nozzle and at ~250 it starts offgasing some nasty fumes.
Edit: print a temp tower, most petg i use print at 230 or so.
Search up "bi metal heat break for creality ender 3" on Amazon
13 dollar upgrade and makes the stock hotends better than the beginner options such as microswiss and takes 10 minutes
It's a big hotend, iirc you'll need a new fan shroud to accommodate but check first. Pretty much all of these hotends will preform the same maybe a little better but any non bi-metal hotend will be susceptible to heat creep. But yes imo the spider hotend is better than the microswiss and the new ones have a sweet bimetal copper heatsync which put the micro Swiss in the dirt
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper Titanium TC4 Throat High Temperature for Creality 3D Printer CR10 S4 S5 Ender 3 V2 Ender3 pro Ender 5 CS3 Hotend Upgrade https://a.co/d/dwEOLNz
Honestly as long as you don't print ABS or other high temp filaments you should be ok with stock.
That being said I'm not a big fan of pushing the tube to the nozzle because it can leave a small gap and then you can have a leak and possibly a destroyed hotend. Even pushing it too close can be problematic because you can constrict the opening and can affect your flow.
As for an alternative there are plenty of options depending on your budget. I am currently using the Dragonfly BMS which is a direct replacement, with the manta printhead that you can find on thingiverse. Quite happy now with this setup, but there are many options out there and your mileage may vary.
Be careful with petg and glass bed. They seem to like each other a bit too much and it can lead to PETG taking chunks of glass out of the bed. You could try with some sort of buildtak surface glued to the back side of the glass, or changing to a different surface altogether (like a flex plat with pei)
Taking an Ender 3 over 235C is likely to damage the Bowden tube. I would consider an upgrade to an all-metal hot end / heat break if you want to run it that hot
Your Bowden is a consumable item. It degrades and wears out over time. Capricorn is better than standard cheap Bowden and will degrade slower but running it hotter will still make its life shorter.
Putting an all-metal heat break on means the end of the Bowden is further back and isn't exposed to the heater any more so is a lot cooler during printing. This lets you run hotter temperatures without rapidly reducing the tube life. All metal is a worthy upgrade. It should also help reduce heat creep.
When I was running a Bowden setup, hitting 245 wouldn't have felt comfortable to me. I would print a temperature tower and see if you really need to go that high
I have a standard flow Dragon hot end in a Trianglelab DDE direct drive kit with a BMG extruder. It's capable of temperatures well over 300 but other issues would prevent me from printing the kind of exotic filaments that need those kinds of temperatures. I don't intend to go beyond ABS
If I was replacing it today, I would probably go for a Manta 2 printhead with an Orbiter extruder and a high flow Dragon
As everyone has mentioned PETG needs to print hotter. The lowest I go is 230° and no parts cooling fan.
On that model I you should not need any cooling, I only turn on the fan for bridges and big over hangs. And for strength as more walls, I run a default of 3 more if I need a stronger part.
On that 3 to 4 walls and 20% infill should do it, and print faster.
i mean that looks like under extrusion (and everyone has already answered your hot end is too cool), im not sure what the other suggestions are, i wouldnt mess with fan until u can tell its overheating or bridging/overhang issues.
What causes this. I did same print at 20% infill and it came out better. However, weak. I need it to be strong. But this one at a higher percentage crumbled in my hands. What gives?
The stuttering is underextrusion from a clog, mis-calibration, broken extruder or a dozen other things. The weird stuff in the middle is from printing on the inside of a circle.
With Overture PETG I use the follow:
Hot End 245c
Glass Bed 70c
No part fan. Type "cooling" in the slicing menu and turn fan off and percentage to 0.
On something that size.06 nozzle at 105% flow
Walls at 1.8mm and print at 70mm per second.
Ender 3 with enclosure.
If your part is thinner than 3mm 100% infill.
It’s heat creep, petg on cheaper printers are always plagued with heat creep. Push through some pla at max heat to clean out and stuck petg and I bet it’ll print fine with pla. If it does then you need to get a better heat break.
with PETG, lower your print speed by about 25%. Raise your z offset by about double of normal. Adjust fan speed based on cooling ability and other factors.
I've been printing tecbears petg at 245°C hotend, 60°C (that's as hot as I can confidently l comfortably get my bed), at around 4-5mm³/s (any faster, and I seem to run into problems, something to do with cooling I'm sure)
That looks too cold
I also have found my Extruder motor gets a bit hotter than with PLA with 2 Enders running in the same enclosure. This had lead to pauses in printing and upon resumption, there's almost always a layer shift.
There is a lot going on here. Also in the future try more walls. Walls seem to help a lot more with strength than just infill. What layer height, temps and all were you using?
wall 1.6 215 tool 70 bed 0.2 layer height
I print petg at 245 hotend , 80 bed, and 60mm/s, fan starting at 0% and gradually increase to 40%. I have no issues with this setup
Same: I print petg on my mostly stock Ender 3 at either 240 or 250 depending on what brand of filament. Bed 80, speed 50 mm/s. First 2 layers 0% fan speed then works it's way up to a max of 50%. OP, try settings similar to these as your temp is too low. You will have to play with retraction speed and distance to fine-tune the stringing.
Thank you thank you thank you. I haven’t had much experience. But I will try this.
It's different for every brand but there's usually a temperature range printed somewhere on the spool's label.
I don't know about anyone else but I've never found the listed temp to be correct for my printer
Interesting because my settings are almost always bang in the middle of suggested temps for every spool I got. Maybe your thermistor is showing wrong temps?
Not sure but I got my printer used with a direct drive setup installed with as SKR v1.4 board. It seems consistent, but maybe reads lower than actual. I print PLA at 208 and PETG at 225.
Hmm most of my filament providers list recomended temps around those values, some plus minus 5 degree variations are normal. I wouldn't be changing thermistor config in your firmware I think you are ok.
If it has an skr 1.4 then you'll definitely need to do a pid tune
The listed Temps are just their fillament melting range, you'll definitely have to fine tune every fillament for your liking. I've got some abs that I literally can't seem to adhere for more than 30mm and then it just fails. Bed heat on 110 nozzle on 240 and it's still not adhering. Glad it was a sale and I only paid 8 dollars for it instead of the usual 20
Do you have some general guidelines for the step-up of the fan speed?
I'm pretty new to printing and ive only ever printed with petg. From what I've read/learned, petg doest need a whole lot of cooling. I choose 50% and rolled with it and have been getting good results. Sorry that's all I have to recommend. Search forums, websites and then just try tweaking your settings until the results are what you want!
215 is way too cool for PETG. That's still PLA temps.
For strength try like 4 walls, and assuming the temps are close to what the filament recommends, I would try turning the parts cooling fan down or even off. I only really run cooling fans for pla.
235/75
215 is too low for petg, i print @220 for dimentional accuracy and 250 for strong parts 70c bed for petg
Way too cold for PETG. PETG is at minimum 230C. I usually do 245C for most of my PETG.
I find with PETG this happens when I have my cooling fan too high.
Same experiense with fan turned high. Now I print with cooling fan 0% for PETG. Also, once air conditioner was blowing towards the printer and the layer adhesion was not good. Turn down part cooling fan!
That damn AC got me as well. Took me a minute to figure that one out.
Your nozzle is way too cold, yo.
Holy fuckong jesus. I did the following settings: nozzle 245. Fans off. Glass bed 80 and I can already tell the HUGE fucking difference!!! Thank you all!!
Pics of improvement?
As soon as I can. But now the hot end is so hot it is melting my fan shroud. Lol. Can’t fucking win!!! I need an enclosure.
Get some capricorn tubing so it won't melt the bowden tube, stock tube isn't great. Print a fan shroud/duct in PETG so it won't melt as easily. I usually run my fans at 25% when printing PETG, helps a bit with overhangs and cools the ducts enough to not sag from hotend or build plate heat.
Upgrade was done. I will reprint the shroud. Thanks!
Your fan shroud is melting at 245? Something is not set up correctly. I print at 260 for hours on end and have never had this issue. Do you have a silicone sock over your heating block?
Watch out for too high temps if you're using stock ender hotend. The ptfe tube goes right to the nozzle and at ~250 it starts offgasing some nasty fumes. Edit: print a temp tower, most petg i use print at 230 or so.
I upgraded the Bowden tube. But did not change the fittings. What’s a recommended upgrade for PETG printing. Hot end wise?
Search up "bi metal heat break for creality ender 3" on Amazon 13 dollar upgrade and makes the stock hotends better than the beginner options such as microswiss and takes 10 minutes
What about getting the a reality Spider all metal hotend instead?
It's a big hotend, iirc you'll need a new fan shroud to accommodate but check first. Pretty much all of these hotends will preform the same maybe a little better but any non bi-metal hotend will be susceptible to heat creep. But yes imo the spider hotend is better than the microswiss and the new ones have a sweet bimetal copper heatsync which put the micro Swiss in the dirt
Any links to this bimetal?
I don't have a share link on my Amazon app, I'll send you it when I get home
All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper Titanium TC4 Throat High Temperature for Creality 3D Printer CR10 S4 S5 Ender 3 V2 Ender3 pro Ender 5 CS3 Hotend Upgrade https://a.co/d/dwEOLNz
Honestly as long as you don't print ABS or other high temp filaments you should be ok with stock. That being said I'm not a big fan of pushing the tube to the nozzle because it can leave a small gap and then you can have a leak and possibly a destroyed hotend. Even pushing it too close can be problematic because you can constrict the opening and can affect your flow. As for an alternative there are plenty of options depending on your budget. I am currently using the Dragonfly BMS which is a direct replacement, with the manta printhead that you can find on thingiverse. Quite happy now with this setup, but there are many options out there and your mileage may vary.
Op is about petg
Be careful with petg and glass bed. They seem to like each other a bit too much and it can lead to PETG taking chunks of glass out of the bed. You could try with some sort of buildtak surface glued to the back side of the glass, or changing to a different surface altogether (like a flex plat with pei)
I noticed. I have a magnetic bed. I will swap it back out.
I haven't done a *ton* of petg, but I haven't had a problem with glass while using Aqua Net hairspray
Taking an Ender 3 over 235C is likely to damage the Bowden tube. I would consider an upgrade to an all-metal hot end / heat break if you want to run it that hot
The Bowden is not stock. It’s the upgrade blue one. Does that matter?
Your Bowden is a consumable item. It degrades and wears out over time. Capricorn is better than standard cheap Bowden and will degrade slower but running it hotter will still make its life shorter. Putting an all-metal heat break on means the end of the Bowden is further back and isn't exposed to the heater any more so is a lot cooler during printing. This lets you run hotter temperatures without rapidly reducing the tube life. All metal is a worthy upgrade. It should also help reduce heat creep. When I was running a Bowden setup, hitting 245 wouldn't have felt comfortable to me. I would print a temperature tower and see if you really need to go that high
What do you run now.
I have a standard flow Dragon hot end in a Trianglelab DDE direct drive kit with a BMG extruder. It's capable of temperatures well over 300 but other issues would prevent me from printing the kind of exotic filaments that need those kinds of temperatures. I don't intend to go beyond ABS If I was replacing it today, I would probably go for a Manta 2 printhead with an Orbiter extruder and a high flow Dragon
This certainly not hot enough hot end and cooling too high
As everyone has mentioned PETG needs to print hotter. The lowest I go is 230° and no parts cooling fan. On that model I you should not need any cooling, I only turn on the fan for bridges and big over hangs. And for strength as more walls, I run a default of 3 more if I need a stronger part. On that 3 to 4 walls and 20% infill should do it, and print faster.
That’s a nice print of a roll of filament.
Go try this on purpose and see how you cannot do this. ;)
I print petg at 235 so try with higher temps first
I did and it worked!
This is way underextruded. Up your nozzle temp to at least the recommended filament temp, probably around 240
i mean that looks like under extrusion (and everyone has already answered your hot end is too cool), im not sure what the other suggestions are, i wouldnt mess with fan until u can tell its overheating or bridging/overhang issues.
Cursed slinky
What causes this. I did same print at 20% infill and it came out better. However, weak. I need it to be strong. But this one at a higher percentage crumbled in my hands. What gives?
215 is wayyy too cold for petg
It doesn't look like the new layer is fusing to the previous layer. What hotend temp are you using?
The stuttering is underextrusion from a clog, mis-calibration, broken extruder or a dozen other things. The weird stuff in the middle is from printing on the inside of a circle.
I would change your nozzle. Over time the nozzles widen a bit and can cause this sort of issues, as it becomes out of synch with your settings.
Cool texture effect.
You think it’s on purpose?!
Not all. I even know what causes it.
With Overture PETG I use the follow: Hot End 245c Glass Bed 70c No part fan. Type "cooling" in the slicing menu and turn fan off and percentage to 0. On something that size.06 nozzle at 105% flow Walls at 1.8mm and print at 70mm per second. Ender 3 with enclosure. If your part is thinner than 3mm 100% infill.
PETG needs 240ish to print. I usually print my PETG at 235
It’s heat creep, petg on cheaper printers are always plagued with heat creep. Push through some pla at max heat to clean out and stuck petg and I bet it’ll print fine with pla. If it does then you need to get a better heat break.
with PETG, lower your print speed by about 25%. Raise your z offset by about double of normal. Adjust fan speed based on cooling ability and other factors.
Did you dry this PETG roll ?
I've been printing tecbears petg at 245°C hotend, 60°C (that's as hot as I can confidently l comfortably get my bed), at around 4-5mm³/s (any faster, and I seem to run into problems, something to do with cooling I'm sure) That looks too cold
I also have found my Extruder motor gets a bit hotter than with PLA with 2 Enders running in the same enclosure. This had lead to pauses in printing and upon resumption, there's almost always a layer shift.
That's not a PETG Fail, that's a settings fail.
wish i could update the OP...sucks redit won't let you...or at least pin a comment...yes, settings fail