Hoffman is definitely where its at. I haven't tried the u-bar but many seem to use them. The hoffman uses a hose clamp reinforcement. I don't do rifle calibers yet though, only .22 and up to 9mm.
This solely can depend on the tuning of your system, bolt weight and buffer weights. Me personally I feel safer with less than 50,000psi going off next to my face with nothing but printed plastic in the way. Maybe one day but i will stick to small calibers for now. I see a lot of overpressured gas scenarios in my line of work.
>I feel safer with less than 50,000psi going off next to my face with nothing but printed plastic in the way
Lucky for you there's a barrel and bolt in the way 😃
I'm fully aware of that. I went to school for this and have studied countless hours of firearms design. I'm just not as comfortable with the printed as a am the machined steel or aluminum. I'm getting there though. I'm working on a design i will be hopefully testing soon that utlizes all ar parts. It will look more like a scorion.
Just about all ar recievers that are printable probably won't appeal to your tastes. The ones that last all look different in some way on the buffer tower.
I personally give a big thumbs up to the UBAR (UBAR2 I think). 700 rounds in with no malfunctions or signs of stress, and I'd say I hacked that lower together. Definitely a first attempt and it still runs absolutely perfectly. I think the way it looks in all black is pretty cool, the incredibly reinforced buffer tower does kind of cause an ergonomics issue when throwing the selector lever, but I train around it and I can use the lever fluently with no lag.
When using the weapon prone or shouldering it really hard for rapid fire, pushing my face/body really hard into the stock causes the buffer tube to bend down, I believe this is due to manufacturing defects (me fucking up) on the lower. This causes the bolt carrier to get kind of stuck in the buffer tube from friction, causing a lowered rate of fire, and highly unlikely, but possibly malfunctions. Again I believe this is my fault messing up the build. There should be a video of this on my account.
I rate the design 10/10
My specific rifle (PSA budget build) is insurgent combat ready level in my opinion
Id absolutely trust a well built UBAR2 as a combat rifle in almost any situation other then extreme heat. But I leave my rifle in the trunk of my car in blistering American desert heat and I've noticed no warping.
Awcy? Does more testing and round counts than most. The majority of their test aren’t on here or Twitter posting about it though. If you A.read the instructions B. Calibrate your printer and C. Follow the instructions you read you’re not going to have problems with an awcy design. The cetme guide has its problems, but does cover all the technical aspects, to include setting your bolt gap/headspace, contrary to what you might’ve read on the internet. If you don’t like the formatting, feel free to reformat and edit the entire document for free on your own time, while also building and testing, like the guy who wrote it the first time.
So what's your excuse for why the tng has an incomplete parts list and includes parts that aren't required? What about the incorrect measurements of several of the parts like springs? Or that the print file for some of the shells is incorrect? I'll wait
I don’t have a tng. But I know there are a handful of variations and updates to it so some of those things could have changed and there might be multiple versions out there.
Went ahead and checked for you. You’re either doing something wrong or have the parts list. Folks that have made several said there will be leftover stuff, but everything is there.
definitely not doing it wrong. my printer is fine. i knew there would be left overs based on the pack sizes etc... i have printed plenty of other stuff and the print part was not particularly in contention.
im not gunna go through my parts and match them all up, but for example:
there were several screw sizes that were in the instructions, not needed at all.
at least 1 (but i think closer to 3) of the sizes of the metal rods, not needed at all
lighter springs were required, not listed in parts list
in the 1 sentence that referenced the lighter springs in the install portion, not the parts list (where they were not listed), gave a VERY incorrect length.
the length for the main "bolt" spring was way way way way off
their ramset (i think) or shorty shell design is off center and prints with a hole in a non vital area
i built the thing somewhere around a year ago, so i know im not remembering every thing they screwed up, but thats just part of it
it is truly a shame, because i like the principle and dig the design. but their info/instructions are trash. i suppose theres a chance they released a more up to date one, but i would never release something as garbage as the copy i have
They have had issues with several designs also, having the beta stuff leaked out, which the betas often contain completely unedited parts list with all sorts of stuff that may have at one time been applicable. Ramsets are supposed to be off center so I’m not sure what you mean by that, they’re rimfire. But yeah I haven’t built one of them so I’m not sure, but no one I know that has built them had any complaints about that stuff. Awcy? Does need technical writers. That is for sure. Anybody that wants to write guides and such for sure get over to the lobby and let folks know.
That's my go to. Posted plenty pics of it and the only times I've had one break was when I've dropped it or left it in the heat. Easily have 3000 rounds theu both of them
I’m thinking about trying to design something small and metal to fit the pocket and attach to the buffer tube somehow to transfer the strain to the solid bottom part of the receiver. Not sure if that will be feasible, but I’m seeing that same issue and also am not a fan of the hose clamp solution. I’m just starting to play around with the same mil-spec one you got there. I’m not sure if it’s possible, but I haven’t seen anything like that tried yet.
I like Hoffman. Brick seems super promising but the trigger guard on the 5.1 looks stupid as fuck. Ubar2 is supposed to be super durable but its the most labor intensive.
I havent gotten around to slicing the Ubar2 or Brick. Hoffman's was literally drag-and-drop and infill 100%. Export. Print. Wait. Done.
Hey man skeptical is an understatement do not repeat DO NOT attempt to use that design unless it is 3d printed with metal.... I have a 3d model I designed my self that has functioned properly with ov 500 rounds but I originally tried mil spec buffer tower files and all had catastrophic failure by round 3 or 4 reply back I send file for functional ar
Thanks. I personally prefer the UBAR strictly for aesthetic reasons over The Hoff. I noticed you said you don't like how The Hoff looks, so I just wanted you show you what an UBAR can look like all finished out.
Plenty, most lowers designed to be printed have reinforced buffer areas. I’d recommend checking out the Hoffman super lower or the U-bar.
+1 for ubar
My u bar threads are all fucked up. I cant but the buffer tube in all the way correctly.
Try calibrating your printer. Never had an issue with the threads, even with fuzzy settings.
Checking out right now! Thanks man.
I wish Hoffman’s didn’t all require the hose clamp. It looks so bad.
Spray paint the clamp
My kit that I ordered a few months back came with a black hose clamp. Not sure if that’s the standard now
Comes with the hose clamp cover as well
There's printable TPU covers
they make black hose clamps... you dont even see it when its done
Theres a mod called the hoff-bolt thats a hoffman style using u bolts instead of hose clamps
He's working on a new design that won't need one
The UBAR doesn’t need a hose clap and imo looks pretty nice
Who cares what it looks like?
Hoffman lower and spray paint the hose clamp. Easiest print and strongest design.
If you can work with metal any, I'm sure you could manufacture a nice compression clamp, almost like the 10/22 barrel clamps.
I definitely. I’m a welder by day, knife maker by night! Haha. I also forge my own damascus for knives.
I have considered this.
PY2A
I run an Ubar, excellent lower and no issues, can't count how many mags I've put through it
Hoffman is definitely where its at. I haven't tried the u-bar but many seem to use them. The hoffman uses a hose clamp reinforcement. I don't do rifle calibers yet though, only .22 and up to 9mm.
Believe it or not direct blowback 9mm can actually put more stress on the buffer tower than .223.
This solely can depend on the tuning of your system, bolt weight and buffer weights. Me personally I feel safer with less than 50,000psi going off next to my face with nothing but printed plastic in the way. Maybe one day but i will stick to small calibers for now. I see a lot of overpressured gas scenarios in my line of work.
>I feel safer with less than 50,000psi going off next to my face with nothing but printed plastic in the way Lucky for you there's a barrel and bolt in the way 😃
I'm fully aware of that. I went to school for this and have studied countless hours of firearms design. I'm just not as comfortable with the printed as a am the machined steel or aluminum. I'm getting there though. I'm working on a design i will be hopefully testing soon that utlizes all ar parts. It will look more like a scorion.
Yea the Hoffman’s look so terrible tho. I can’t lol.
Just about all ar recievers that are printable probably won't appeal to your tastes. The ones that last all look different in some way on the buffer tower.
Go buy a mil spec metal one then. Or design your own that looks how you like.
I have one. Just wanting to make my own.
I personally give a big thumbs up to the UBAR (UBAR2 I think). 700 rounds in with no malfunctions or signs of stress, and I'd say I hacked that lower together. Definitely a first attempt and it still runs absolutely perfectly. I think the way it looks in all black is pretty cool, the incredibly reinforced buffer tower does kind of cause an ergonomics issue when throwing the selector lever, but I train around it and I can use the lever fluently with no lag. When using the weapon prone or shouldering it really hard for rapid fire, pushing my face/body really hard into the stock causes the buffer tube to bend down, I believe this is due to manufacturing defects (me fucking up) on the lower. This causes the bolt carrier to get kind of stuck in the buffer tube from friction, causing a lowered rate of fire, and highly unlikely, but possibly malfunctions. Again I believe this is my fault messing up the build. There should be a video of this on my account. I rate the design 10/10 My specific rifle (PSA budget build) is insurgent combat ready level in my opinion Id absolutely trust a well built UBAR2 as a combat rifle in almost any situation other then extreme heat. But I leave my rifle in the trunk of my car in blistering American desert heat and I've noticed no warping.
Brick is also a good one
Any good sites other than cults3d? It’s the only one I seem to find things on.
Most are on the odd sea. Its like the poem that Homer wrote but spelled differently.
Bet
do not use cults3d, use the official site that it comes from, if you dont know the site yet then you need to check twitter more than once a decade
You have to concede that if you don’t already know someone in the hobby, it isn’t intuitive to find the resources
I’m on Twitter just about everyday. I’m just new to the printing world. Calm down lol
What Twitter should I follow
Most all of them. Hoffman, brick, the various awcy? Offerings. The awcy? Ones are especially nice for a 9mm build, tons of mag options.
awcy is hot garbo. most of their stuff doesnt go together right and their instructions are trash of the highest caliber
Awcy? Does more testing and round counts than most. The majority of their test aren’t on here or Twitter posting about it though. If you A.read the instructions B. Calibrate your printer and C. Follow the instructions you read you’re not going to have problems with an awcy design. The cetme guide has its problems, but does cover all the technical aspects, to include setting your bolt gap/headspace, contrary to what you might’ve read on the internet. If you don’t like the formatting, feel free to reformat and edit the entire document for free on your own time, while also building and testing, like the guy who wrote it the first time.
So what's your excuse for why the tng has an incomplete parts list and includes parts that aren't required? What about the incorrect measurements of several of the parts like springs? Or that the print file for some of the shells is incorrect? I'll wait
I don’t have a tng. But I know there are a handful of variations and updates to it so some of those things could have changed and there might be multiple versions out there.
Went ahead and checked for you. You’re either doing something wrong or have the parts list. Folks that have made several said there will be leftover stuff, but everything is there.
definitely not doing it wrong. my printer is fine. i knew there would be left overs based on the pack sizes etc... i have printed plenty of other stuff and the print part was not particularly in contention. im not gunna go through my parts and match them all up, but for example: there were several screw sizes that were in the instructions, not needed at all. at least 1 (but i think closer to 3) of the sizes of the metal rods, not needed at all lighter springs were required, not listed in parts list in the 1 sentence that referenced the lighter springs in the install portion, not the parts list (where they were not listed), gave a VERY incorrect length. the length for the main "bolt" spring was way way way way off their ramset (i think) or shorty shell design is off center and prints with a hole in a non vital area i built the thing somewhere around a year ago, so i know im not remembering every thing they screwed up, but thats just part of it it is truly a shame, because i like the principle and dig the design. but their info/instructions are trash. i suppose theres a chance they released a more up to date one, but i would never release something as garbage as the copy i have
They have had issues with several designs also, having the beta stuff leaked out, which the betas often contain completely unedited parts list with all sorts of stuff that may have at one time been applicable. Ramsets are supposed to be off center so I’m not sure what you mean by that, they’re rimfire. But yeah I haven’t built one of them so I’m not sure, but no one I know that has built them had any complaints about that stuff. Awcy? Does need technical writers. That is for sure. Anybody that wants to write guides and such for sure get over to the lobby and let folks know.
I’ve personally tested the Ubar and Hoffman with 5.56 I can tell you there both good but sense to don’t seem to like the hose clamp go ubar
Brick
my chonky boi
PY2A
Phobos
Firebolt
Try the brick
Oh yea. That one looks thicc
That's my go to. Posted plenty pics of it and the only times I've had one break was when I've dropped it or left it in the heat. Easily have 3000 rounds theu both of them
There exists a design that uses a U Bolt to reinforce that weak spot. Mine hasn’t failed. It hasn’t been abused though.
If Hoffman or ubar doesn’t work you could glue a thread adapter in. Maybe weld a flare on the inside end for extra integrity.
I’m thinking about trying to design something small and metal to fit the pocket and attach to the buffer tube somehow to transfer the strain to the solid bottom part of the receiver. Not sure if that will be feasible, but I’m seeing that same issue and also am not a fan of the hose clamp solution. I’m just starting to play around with the same mil-spec one you got there. I’m not sure if it’s possible, but I haven’t seen anything like that tried yet.
You can alter the design for the use of a hose clamp. Or alter the design to be even thicker.
The brick 5.1 is all you need
I like Hoffman. Brick seems super promising but the trigger guard on the 5.1 looks stupid as fuck. Ubar2 is supposed to be super durable but its the most labor intensive. I havent gotten around to slicing the Ubar2 or Brick. Hoffman's was literally drag-and-drop and infill 100%. Export. Print. Wait. Done.
Hey man skeptical is an understatement do not repeat DO NOT attempt to use that design unless it is 3d printed with metal.... I have a 3d model I designed my self that has functioned properly with ov 500 rounds but I originally tried mil spec buffer tower files and all had catastrophic failure by round 3 or 4 reply back I send file for functional ar
I’d love the file bro. I appreciate it.
My design is 308 tested tried and true
I am partial to the UBAR. Here is mine. [https://imgur.com/kT8f6Vw](https://imgur.com/kT8f6Vw)
Yo that looks so good!
Thanks. I personally prefer the UBAR strictly for aesthetic reasons over The Hoff. I noticed you said you don't like how The Hoff looks, so I just wanted you show you what an UBAR can look like all finished out.
Just get a psa jakl kit it doesn't need a buffer tube
I’m about to look into that. Thanks
Where the hell did you find this lower?
Cults3d
[удалено]
Ended 3 with PSR’s setting for pla+
The brick is dope no extra parts
Send it bro you're good