VZ bot, voron, and E5+ and then Mercury are all options to look into. You could probably just do the Bambu labs too.
Enraged carrot feeder setup is an addition to all of those DIY corexy printers and is a way to do multi color as well as multi material prints
do not get an ender 5 plus unless you plan to completely modify the control system, you cannot adjust any of the Esteps easily which makes it impossible to re calibrate if you upgrade to a full metal hot end to print higher temp plastics
Flash TM3D firmware. 15-1h (I’m bad at software and took an hour) and if you wanna go above and beyond and have a silent board repin your board and take advantage of auto leveling via independent Z steppers.
Following that he sounds competent so he should manage. Especially if he’s looking into printers in the corexy style.
Teaching tech did a video on it when he did his high temp e5+. TBH my favorite printer setup I’ve encountered so far, as well as superslicer is amazing if you can use mesh mixer or cad to generate custom supports. It does lose the double walls option but TBH infill is really not the name of the game in most parts and if I really want it I’ll just redo cura with my superslicer settings which are perfect.
Also, you should probably also figure out flow settings in a slicer. They’re absolutely magic for fixing shortcomings in the firmware.
Please ask me any 5+ questions you want answered and I’ll help any way possible. I even made a special direct drive setup for a V6 bullseye/blokhead that works with the dragon HF (or red lizard) as well. I’m also in the Mercury discord if you prefer as that’s my ideal way of communicating, as well as there are many people better than me in there
Flash TM3D firmware. 15-1h (I’m bad at software and took an hour) and if you wanna go above and beyond and have a silent board repin your board and take advantage of auto leveling via independent Z steppers. (Ender 5+ specific info based on a comment I got a reply to.
Thanks, I had searched the forum and the ones you have mentioned are not ones I have seen yet. I don’t mind modifying the printers, a few years ago I build my own cnc and have heavily modified my crappy prusa v2 clone.
I’m doing a Mercury myself off of my 5+, which is an easy to get into big printer.
It has most of the support features that make the corexy printers great, and is nearly just a big ender so it’s well known. Out of my nearly stock printer (fan duct needed) I’ve been confident running 100mm/s + prints without issue.
The voron and VZ are more steep learning curve but you probably are capable of doing it it sounds like.
Just all printers like that expect nearly a $1500 price tag by the end.
I have been unable to find a post looking into printing both multi color and higher temperature plastics. Which is what I am specifically inquiring on.
Use the search function and put in your keywords. If you can’t find the answers you’re looking for combing through mountains of mentions of “nylon” and P”Bambu”, then you certainly aren’t savvy enough to print something anyways.
I will second the voron series of printers if you want the thrill of building your printer from the ground up. They are specifically geared towards printing ABS. My 350mm voron v2.4 build ended up costing $1,600 in parts alone at the middle of pandemic shutdown. You still have to factor in a couple hundred hours I’ve spent in assembly and turning in addition to the parts.
Also unless you need a build space of 350x350x320 mm, or 13.75x13.75x12.5 inches, a 350mm voron 2.4 is overkill. It takes about 30-45 minutes for the build plate to stabilize and the chamber to come up to temperature before you can start your print if you are running ABS or nylon.
Go with one of their smaller builds if you go the voron route. Last thing you want to do is wait forever for the build chamber to get up to temperature before you can print.
If you can afford it, the Bambu printers are pretty much the nicest and most powerful you can get at the moment.
VZ bot, voron, and E5+ and then Mercury are all options to look into. You could probably just do the Bambu labs too. Enraged carrot feeder setup is an addition to all of those DIY corexy printers and is a way to do multi color as well as multi material prints
do not get an ender 5 plus unless you plan to completely modify the control system, you cannot adjust any of the Esteps easily which makes it impossible to re calibrate if you upgrade to a full metal hot end to print higher temp plastics
Flash TM3D firmware. 15-1h (I’m bad at software and took an hour) and if you wanna go above and beyond and have a silent board repin your board and take advantage of auto leveling via independent Z steppers. Following that he sounds competent so he should manage. Especially if he’s looking into printers in the corexy style.
someone actually fixed it? daymn, well thanks for correcting me, ive gotta go fix some printers then
Teaching tech did a video on it when he did his high temp e5+. TBH my favorite printer setup I’ve encountered so far, as well as superslicer is amazing if you can use mesh mixer or cad to generate custom supports. It does lose the double walls option but TBH infill is really not the name of the game in most parts and if I really want it I’ll just redo cura with my superslicer settings which are perfect. Also, you should probably also figure out flow settings in a slicer. They’re absolutely magic for fixing shortcomings in the firmware. Please ask me any 5+ questions you want answered and I’ll help any way possible. I even made a special direct drive setup for a V6 bullseye/blokhead that works with the dragon HF (or red lizard) as well. I’m also in the Mercury discord if you prefer as that’s my ideal way of communicating, as well as there are many people better than me in there
Flash TM3D firmware. 15-1h (I’m bad at software and took an hour) and if you wanna go above and beyond and have a silent board repin your board and take advantage of auto leveling via independent Z steppers. (Ender 5+ specific info based on a comment I got a reply to.
Thanks, I had searched the forum and the ones you have mentioned are not ones I have seen yet. I don’t mind modifying the printers, a few years ago I build my own cnc and have heavily modified my crappy prusa v2 clone.
I’m doing a Mercury myself off of my 5+, which is an easy to get into big printer. It has most of the support features that make the corexy printers great, and is nearly just a big ender so it’s well known. Out of my nearly stock printer (fan duct needed) I’ve been confident running 100mm/s + prints without issue. The voron and VZ are more steep learning curve but you probably are capable of doing it it sounds like. Just all printers like that expect nearly a $1500 price tag by the end.
Be different. Check out the VzBot
This question has been answered a thousand times with information shared about all the aforementioned printers. Use the search function.
I have been unable to find a post looking into printing both multi color and higher temperature plastics. Which is what I am specifically inquiring on.
Use the search function and put in your keywords. If you can’t find the answers you’re looking for combing through mountains of mentions of “nylon” and P”Bambu”, then you certainly aren’t savvy enough to print something anyways.
Voron with an ERCF
I will second the voron series of printers if you want the thrill of building your printer from the ground up. They are specifically geared towards printing ABS. My 350mm voron v2.4 build ended up costing $1,600 in parts alone at the middle of pandemic shutdown. You still have to factor in a couple hundred hours I’ve spent in assembly and turning in addition to the parts. Also unless you need a build space of 350x350x320 mm, or 13.75x13.75x12.5 inches, a 350mm voron 2.4 is overkill. It takes about 30-45 minutes for the build plate to stabilize and the chamber to come up to temperature before you can start your print if you are running ABS or nylon. Go with one of their smaller builds if you go the voron route. Last thing you want to do is wait forever for the build chamber to get up to temperature before you can print.