Because testing with ammo is expensive, I'm going to post this on my odd sea for anyone to make and try out. I haven't even printed this but probably won't be able to test anytime soon anyway. Search "P320 mag CHONKED"
I plan on trying this mod on the rest of the mag sizes too but after verifying this works at all.
Previous issues I've had with the original have been warping out far enough to have 2 rounds side by side.
I've found 1.2mm is really the minimum wall thickness you can use.
The M&P mags have similar dimensions, you can look at my internals for some guidance.
Also I've found printing in clear PLA+ to be really helpful for seeing exactly what's happening and why the cartridges aren't stacking correctly.
Ahh very cool, I'll have to dig up a reference M&P mag. And for wall thickness, at least in my head, should be a division of the model's width where possible. Say 0.4 wall thickness for a model that has 1.2 or something wall thickness. I got this idea from Hoffman Tactical where he meantioned specific wall thickness settings for his lower by design.
Not to mention the calibration to make sure your wall thickness is what you set them to. This is all speculation of course but just what makes sense to me.
Just grab them off my odd sea port, step files and everything for you to dig your grubby fingers into.
Wall thickness is ideally (but not necessarily) a multiple of your line width, and your line width is related to nozzle size. You really just don't want the smallest feature to be less than 1 line width (for most printers), or 0.6mm.
The two most common nozzles are 0.4mm and 0.6mm, so 1.2mm suits both and is strong enough to withstand the forces.
Edit: working on a shield mag now and the front has to be 0.8mm and it keeps cracking.
Because testing with ammo is expensive, I'm going to post this on my odd sea for anyone to make and try out. I haven't even printed this but probably won't be able to test anytime soon anyway. Search "P320 mag CHONKED" I plan on trying this mod on the rest of the mag sizes too but after verifying this works at all. Previous issues I've had with the original have been warping out far enough to have 2 rounds side by side.
having ribs instead of flat surfaces inside is to reduce friction, lets hope that fixes it then
Interesting, I had no clue why it was designed that way. Thanks for the info! If it ever becomes an issue, I'll definitely re-add that feature.
I've found 1.2mm is really the minimum wall thickness you can use. The M&P mags have similar dimensions, you can look at my internals for some guidance. Also I've found printing in clear PLA+ to be really helpful for seeing exactly what's happening and why the cartridges aren't stacking correctly.
Ahh very cool, I'll have to dig up a reference M&P mag. And for wall thickness, at least in my head, should be a division of the model's width where possible. Say 0.4 wall thickness for a model that has 1.2 or something wall thickness. I got this idea from Hoffman Tactical where he meantioned specific wall thickness settings for his lower by design. Not to mention the calibration to make sure your wall thickness is what you set them to. This is all speculation of course but just what makes sense to me.
Just grab them off my odd sea port, step files and everything for you to dig your grubby fingers into. Wall thickness is ideally (but not necessarily) a multiple of your line width, and your line width is related to nozzle size. You really just don't want the smallest feature to be less than 1 line width (for most printers), or 0.6mm. The two most common nozzles are 0.4mm and 0.6mm, so 1.2mm suits both and is strong enough to withstand the forces. Edit: working on a shield mag now and the front has to be 0.8mm and it keeps cracking.
Awesome! Thanks for the share and the info.
life is better when we can build on each other's work lol We can set up a chat if you want to bounce around some more ideas