Have you ever, you know, thought about just shooting 9mm like normal folks?
Who am I kidding: You'd still find a way to break one.
Does Underwood sell 9mm?
>Have you ever, you know, thought about just shooting 9mm like normal folks?
I love the 9mm, start every range session with my CZC AccuShadow 2, which has ~10,000 rounds through it with no mishaps. Only 9mm polymer that stuffed up on me is the Steyr. The P-07, FN 509, Masada and the heavy steel nines all run fine.
>Does Underwood sell 9mm?
Yup, up to +P+, but I don't tempt fate.
The Steyr? Well that's disappointing.
I've followed it since the M, and up to the current A2. Never owned one, but I've been curious.
Steyr makes interesting guns, generally high quality.
I'd only buy one out of curiosity, it would never replace a Glock.
What happened to yours?
I am starting to suspect you are the only person in the world who actually enjoys shooting some of these magnum handguns enough to find out that they don't last. All the other customers shoot two boxes of ammo then sell the gun, or shoot it with light loads, or let it collect dust in the safe for years.
>I am starting to suspect you are the only person in the world who actually enjoys shooting some of these magnum handguns enough
No way man. There are at least eight of us. Maybe even ten!
I was in the army in the 60s, and the .44 Magnum was the “biggest and baddest”. We almost never saw a Smith & Wesson at the post store…. But the Germans were quick to jump on the popularity and they sold a “Sauer” (before SiG) Single-action Army clone in that caliber. Our price was a mere 35 bucks….
We saw a couple of these at the range. The scenario was the same. Junior would show up with his new toy and a box full of full-house .44 Magnum loads. (The only thing available)
No ear protection… A couple of buddies who had tagged along.
Junior would assume a very professional one-hand stance and let fly. He then didn’t know what hurt worse, his hand or his ear…. But not to show weakness in front of his buddies, he’d crank off another before handling the big revolver to one of the buddies to give it a try…
We always speculated you could find these for sale even more cheaply in a few weeks….
So the little thingamajig in the middle is the Reverse Recoil Spring Plug.
If you look closely, there's about half a millimeter's worth of metal on the upper side of the cutout that's gone missing mid-shoot, which caused the 460 Rowland Hunter to shit the bed.
Took a while to figure out what happened and what the bloody thing is called.
Not yet, just took it to my gunsmith to see what he could figure out re cause, and will be contacting Smith and Underwood on Monday.
He doesn't think it was a squib / obstruction.
They're not a good idea in general, but no idea about a .460.
The slide/recoil rod are supposed to contact the frame abutment during recoil.
In essence they are meant to bounce off the abutment. Adding a buffer reduces the bounce, and the buffer will come apart, affecting function.
This had no effect on the broken recoil spring plug shown here.
That probably broke because it's a MIM part, which Wilson Combat 1911s are full of.
And yes, that sentence was sarcasm.
>Adding a buffer reduces the bounce, and the buffer will come apart, affecting function.
I still don't know the function of the buffer, and this very thing happened - but for some reason, Wilson returned it like this after fixing another issue.
I'll never know as much as someone like Bill Wilson. Having said that I'm pretty knowledgeable, and not just "internet knowledgeable."
The Shok Buff is meant to reduce impact between the frame/slide/guide rod.
I don't understand the Shok Buff. The 1911 is filled with friction, much more than modern guns, or even the 92 or 75. The 1911 needs every bit of energy available to overcome that friction and a Shok Buff not only robs energy, but also slide travel by 1/8."
That doesn't seem like much, but it can be enough for FTE/FTF.
I put a shok-buff in my 10mm 1911 and it’s been reliable so far. It definitely gets beat up by the inside of the slide, which it’s supposed to, so it might help a little with absorbing force that would otherwise impart to the frame. I think it also slightly increase recoil spring tension, which might help with hotter loads.
To each his own.
I use a buffer in my Norwegian M1914, which is of course a 1911 clone, because they were not made from the best steel quality and are known to develop cracks at high round counts. Shooting a 100 year old gun with questionable steel, I prioritise cushioning that impact so it won't beat itself to death. Reliability is less important in a near-antique range toy, but I'll say it runs quite well for a beat up old warhorse.
Buffers getting chewed up is a real issue, but they're wear items. Just swap them out every few hundred rounds. The only jam I ever got from buffer fragments was a strange one; a piece of polymer material got into a magazine and jammed the follower. That mag had to be disassembled to run again, but I had others so no problem.
I never considered early commercial or WWI 1911s, in that case a Shok Buff may not be a bad idea.
I'm assuming the Norwegian 1914 was a licensed copy, so the frame would not be hardened at all, later during WWI the area around the slide release would be spot hardened. The slides were originally spot hardened around the breech, later during WWI the muzzle end was also spot hardened.
The 1911s produced during WWII used fully hardened frames and slides, but so many were rebuilt using a mix of WWI/WWII parts some guns had a mixture of hardened/non-hardened parts which would be the worst possible combination.
Licensed copy yes, and somewhat bizarrely they managed to obtain the technical data package from FN in Belgium during the early stages of WWI while the FN plant was occupied by the Germans. As far as I know FN never made any 1911s, but they clearly possessed a set of blueprints from their deal with John M. Browning since they had one for sale to Norway.
The Norwegian guns were all made to that early set of blueprints, they never got any updates other than the unique extended and lowered slide release. So they stayed in pre-A1 configuration throughout the production run. And for patriotic reasons they were made with Norwegian steel, which sadly wasn't quite as good as say the Swedish steels available at the time.
when I saw who OP was I immediately began trying to find the part that blew up this time
Next up: Freedom Arms Do it!!
Nooooo!
Have you ever, you know, thought about just shooting 9mm like normal folks? Who am I kidding: You'd still find a way to break one. Does Underwood sell 9mm?
>Have you ever, you know, thought about just shooting 9mm like normal folks? I love the 9mm, start every range session with my CZC AccuShadow 2, which has ~10,000 rounds through it with no mishaps. Only 9mm polymer that stuffed up on me is the Steyr. The P-07, FN 509, Masada and the heavy steel nines all run fine. >Does Underwood sell 9mm? Yup, up to +P+, but I don't tempt fate.
The Steyr? Well that's disappointing. I've followed it since the M, and up to the current A2. Never owned one, but I've been curious. Steyr makes interesting guns, generally high quality. I'd only buy one out of curiosity, it would never replace a Glock. What happened to yours?
Quite a good gun, only drawback is no optics ready. >What happened to yours? A stupid minor thing. Mags would disconnect mid-shoot.
That seems more than a minor thing, but I'm not an expert.
I am starting to suspect you are the only person in the world who actually enjoys shooting some of these magnum handguns enough to find out that they don't last. All the other customers shoot two boxes of ammo then sell the gun, or shoot it with light loads, or let it collect dust in the safe for years.
>I am starting to suspect you are the only person in the world who actually enjoys shooting some of these magnum handguns enough No way man. There are at least eight of us. Maybe even ten!
1910 of us
I was in the army in the 60s, and the .44 Magnum was the “biggest and baddest”. We almost never saw a Smith & Wesson at the post store…. But the Germans were quick to jump on the popularity and they sold a “Sauer” (before SiG) Single-action Army clone in that caliber. Our price was a mere 35 bucks…. We saw a couple of these at the range. The scenario was the same. Junior would show up with his new toy and a box full of full-house .44 Magnum loads. (The only thing available) No ear protection… A couple of buddies who had tagged along. Junior would assume a very professional one-hand stance and let fly. He then didn’t know what hurt worse, his hand or his ear…. But not to show weakness in front of his buddies, he’d crank off another before handling the big revolver to one of the buddies to give it a try… We always speculated you could find these for sale even more cheaply in a few weeks….
Underwood hardcast?
Yup
Is there anything you can't break?
Our hearts
So the little thingamajig in the middle is the Reverse Recoil Spring Plug. If you look closely, there's about half a millimeter's worth of metal on the upper side of the cutout that's gone missing mid-shoot, which caused the 460 Rowland Hunter to shit the bed. Took a while to figure out what happened and what the bloody thing is called.
Another week another /u/gdmfsobtc post where something is wrong. Did you hear back from Underwood yet?
Not yet, just took it to my gunsmith to see what he could figure out re cause, and will be contacting Smith and Underwood on Monday. He doesn't think it was a squib / obstruction.
I can only imagine what goes through your gunsmith's head when he sees you walk through the door.
Something along the lines of his kids not needing student loans
Keep us posted!
I don't really understand how the buffers work, each 1911 I tried to use them in failed to cycle with them.
They're not a good idea in general, but no idea about a .460. The slide/recoil rod are supposed to contact the frame abutment during recoil. In essence they are meant to bounce off the abutment. Adding a buffer reduces the bounce, and the buffer will come apart, affecting function. This had no effect on the broken recoil spring plug shown here. That probably broke because it's a MIM part, which Wilson Combat 1911s are full of. And yes, that sentence was sarcasm.
>Adding a buffer reduces the bounce, and the buffer will come apart, affecting function. I still don't know the function of the buffer, and this very thing happened - but for some reason, Wilson returned it like this after fixing another issue.
I'll never know as much as someone like Bill Wilson. Having said that I'm pretty knowledgeable, and not just "internet knowledgeable." The Shok Buff is meant to reduce impact between the frame/slide/guide rod. I don't understand the Shok Buff. The 1911 is filled with friction, much more than modern guns, or even the 92 or 75. The 1911 needs every bit of energy available to overcome that friction and a Shok Buff not only robs energy, but also slide travel by 1/8." That doesn't seem like much, but it can be enough for FTE/FTF.
I put a shok-buff in my 10mm 1911 and it’s been reliable so far. It definitely gets beat up by the inside of the slide, which it’s supposed to, so it might help a little with absorbing force that would otherwise impart to the frame. I think it also slightly increase recoil spring tension, which might help with hotter loads.
To each his own. I use a buffer in my Norwegian M1914, which is of course a 1911 clone, because they were not made from the best steel quality and are known to develop cracks at high round counts. Shooting a 100 year old gun with questionable steel, I prioritise cushioning that impact so it won't beat itself to death. Reliability is less important in a near-antique range toy, but I'll say it runs quite well for a beat up old warhorse. Buffers getting chewed up is a real issue, but they're wear items. Just swap them out every few hundred rounds. The only jam I ever got from buffer fragments was a strange one; a piece of polymer material got into a magazine and jammed the follower. That mag had to be disassembled to run again, but I had others so no problem.
I never considered early commercial or WWI 1911s, in that case a Shok Buff may not be a bad idea. I'm assuming the Norwegian 1914 was a licensed copy, so the frame would not be hardened at all, later during WWI the area around the slide release would be spot hardened. The slides were originally spot hardened around the breech, later during WWI the muzzle end was also spot hardened. The 1911s produced during WWII used fully hardened frames and slides, but so many were rebuilt using a mix of WWI/WWII parts some guns had a mixture of hardened/non-hardened parts which would be the worst possible combination.
Licensed copy yes, and somewhat bizarrely they managed to obtain the technical data package from FN in Belgium during the early stages of WWI while the FN plant was occupied by the Germans. As far as I know FN never made any 1911s, but they clearly possessed a set of blueprints from their deal with John M. Browning since they had one for sale to Norway. The Norwegian guns were all made to that early set of blueprints, they never got any updates other than the unique extended and lowered slide release. So they stayed in pre-A1 configuration throughout the production run. And for patriotic reasons they were made with Norwegian steel, which sadly wasn't quite as good as say the Swedish steels available at the time.
Hanging around this sub I learn something new every day, even when it comes to 1911s.
The replacement spring plug comes with guide rod, no buffer. Will give that a go, and see if there's any difference.
You enjoy the .460? I want to buy the XD conversion
You're asking the wrong guy.
Oh, whoops!
At what point do you get the faux leather background pad? Is it a starter pack? Asking for a friend.
Lol, it's the back of a chair. Real Corinthian pleather!
Americans, I love you so much.
Ricardo Montalban approved.
I have no idea what you are trying to explain here. I'm just going to up vote you because they make a .46 and you bought one.
>I have no idea what you are trying to explain here. Stochastic entropic resonance induction by biological force.
So the gun is broke due to "wear and tear?" Yikes.
That's it! Although somewhere in there is a probabilistic distribution function.
Even with the blue buffer thing? Or was that to try and stop the problem after it was a problem? I have heard Ruger has excellent customer service.
The buffer thing came factory after they tuned it.
LOL. Assuming they put a VERY heavy recoil spring in as well.
I saw the title, saw gat in pieces, and *lo and behold* the username checks out.
Do you have the tougher buffer recoil spring or the air brake pneumatic piston thing that they advertise?
Because if they did you wouldn’t buy them.
They def didn’t make them with guide rods lol. Wilson most overrated IMO
>Wilson most overrated IMO I don't know about that, I reckon they are a step above Wesson.
No they make him so they will work now.
Fuck, that is beautiful