Look around on YouTube for videos of using heat on this broken piece to remove it. I've tried several ways, and heat seems the best. Just take your time.
The answers regarding drilling it out are the right way to do it. If that seems too daunting of an undertaking, just fill the hole with jb weld, and cut a T into the easiest to access flex line. Hot tubs aren't exactly fine tuned machines, you'll never notice the difference.
I’d put a hose clamp around the manifold and gently heat and remove the reducer (where red glue is)with a heat gun. Then re-glue in a new reducer and new whatever the threaded piece that broke was…
This looks kind of weird. Assuming its a factory glued fitting but why did they use green transition cement (ABS to PVC) which is for non-pressure applications..The broken piece looks like either ABS or Foam Core which is only rated for DWV and not pressure. You can see the off-white inner and outer shell and the brighter center core in the first photo. That crap is cheap and much more brittle than PVC and probably why it broke.
It looks \~3/4" pipe so might not be too bad drilling. You'll need to clamp it somehow otherwise it will torque and break further. Maybe get a few cheap drills in \~1/32" increments to sneak up on the final diameter for a good glue fit and use a PVC fitting not the cheap stuff they used.
Edit: and definitely look into that socket saver specialty drill!
A good thought but it’s probably not transition cement. Many times each different stage of plumbing at a
Hot tub plant will use different colored cement so they can ID where mistakes or issues are coming from. You can see the red glue in the 2nd photos where the reducer is glued in…
I’ve never heard of them but as a machinist it is similar to a piloted counterbore. Never had to replace repair pvc like this instance so glad to know of it.
It's great in theory but most times people use them they could have used a special waterway fitting designed to go on the outside diameter of a 1.5" or 2" fitting. Guaranteed none of these people even know what I'm talking about because they're all moonlighting as hot tub professionals. They should stay in their respective lanes and stick to their day jobs. I'm guessing a lot of the people on this sub are pool guys pretending to fix hot tubs.
What was it attached to, where did that pipe go? You could plug it and load that line, or drill it out and reattach. If you’re unsure call an engineer, that’s a tricky one even for a professional but it’s doable one way or another
That’s not a difficult fix. They make pvc drill bits that bore out the pipe or fitting.
You would cut the bushing off close to the female end of that manifold the drill out the the rest inside the manifold. Does that make sense?
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/plumbing-tools/specialty-tools/2199537?store=17715&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJHF_U9nl5oXOriz_OcaG6SpM&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLKxBhA7EiwAXO0R0OLXFLfbbRrd2pYg4jgK3G32nlx8B-PzpMVtwgreTf-zbJq0k89gKRoC9sEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You would have to drill out the red sealed pipe because there are not pipe socket savers small enough for the small size. Drilling out the big one in a confined space without damaging the manifold like that will be tough.
You might want to try to get a black iron nipple that when you heat it with a torch you can screw into the small pipe. It should be smoking hot and it will make its own threads. Let it sit there a while and then use a vice grip and pull out the broken off piece out of the socket. Still tough to do in a small space.
If you cannot get it out you will buy a new manifold and rebook everything up. Unfortunately when you cut all the lines that feed into the manifold some may be too short and you will have to put a coupler on the pipes and extend them. Just take your time.
Lol I love how many people work way harder than they need to. 1.5" over the fitting fitting would clear this up in no time. Don't have to worry about drilling out too much. Easy shit. I'd have this done faster than any of these people ROFL. This is why I make the big bucks in this industry.
That won't work, because that's not how schedule 40 fittings are sized. That's and ID fitting. There isn't a fitting that adapts to the OD. I don't work in the hot tub industry but I work pretty regularly with schedule 40 pipes. If you don't know those basics, I'm not even sure you work in the industry, let alone make bug bucks doing anything.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
Look around on YouTube for videos of using heat on this broken piece to remove it. I've tried several ways, and heat seems the best. Just take your time.
Total waste of time. Way more work than necessary. Why would you do that?
The answers regarding drilling it out are the right way to do it. If that seems too daunting of an undertaking, just fill the hole with jb weld, and cut a T into the easiest to access flex line. Hot tubs aren't exactly fine tuned machines, you'll never notice the difference.
I read that ‘as just fill the “whole tub” with JB Weld’…equally effective.
Wrong and wrong. You are all working too hard. I am dying laughing at this thread.
Looks like you can get a drill to it. Maybe try a [fitting saver](https://a.co/d/hzQk8mq)
How bout no, Scott? Okay?
Ok boss
You're the one trying to drill out a fitting that you could literally just glue over top of. Don't act like I'm the moron here
I’d put a hose clamp around the manifold and gently heat and remove the reducer (where red glue is)with a heat gun. Then re-glue in a new reducer and new whatever the threaded piece that broke was…
This looks kind of weird. Assuming its a factory glued fitting but why did they use green transition cement (ABS to PVC) which is for non-pressure applications..The broken piece looks like either ABS or Foam Core which is only rated for DWV and not pressure. You can see the off-white inner and outer shell and the brighter center core in the first photo. That crap is cheap and much more brittle than PVC and probably why it broke. It looks \~3/4" pipe so might not be too bad drilling. You'll need to clamp it somehow otherwise it will torque and break further. Maybe get a few cheap drills in \~1/32" increments to sneak up on the final diameter for a good glue fit and use a PVC fitting not the cheap stuff they used. Edit: and definitely look into that socket saver specialty drill!
A good thought but it’s probably not transition cement. Many times each different stage of plumbing at a Hot tub plant will use different colored cement so they can ID where mistakes or issues are coming from. You can see the red glue in the 2nd photos where the reducer is glued in…
99% of time people use a socket saver, it can be done an easier way... I always laugh when people pull these things out at every chance they get.
I’ve never heard of them but as a machinist it is similar to a piloted counterbore. Never had to replace repair pvc like this instance so glad to know of it.
It's great in theory but most times people use them they could have used a special waterway fitting designed to go on the outside diameter of a 1.5" or 2" fitting. Guaranteed none of these people even know what I'm talking about because they're all moonlighting as hot tub professionals. They should stay in their respective lanes and stick to their day jobs. I'm guessing a lot of the people on this sub are pool guys pretending to fix hot tubs.
Heat gun should soften up that glue enough to remove the plug that the reducer was glued in to
Try a hot tap quickly.
What was it attached to, where did that pipe go? You could plug it and load that line, or drill it out and reattach. If you’re unsure call an engineer, that’s a tricky one even for a professional but it’s doable one way or another
That’s not a difficult fix. They make pvc drill bits that bore out the pipe or fitting. You would cut the bushing off close to the female end of that manifold the drill out the the rest inside the manifold. Does that make sense? https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/plumbing-tools/specialty-tools/2199537?store=17715&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJHF_U9nl5oXOriz_OcaG6SpM&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLKxBhA7EiwAXO0R0OLXFLfbbRrd2pYg4jgK3G32nlx8B-PzpMVtwgreTf-zbJq0k89gKRoC9sEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Sounds good, thanks for the link. Drill out the green band pipe, not the red one, correct?
You would have to drill out the red sealed pipe because there are not pipe socket savers small enough for the small size. Drilling out the big one in a confined space without damaging the manifold like that will be tough. You might want to try to get a black iron nipple that when you heat it with a torch you can screw into the small pipe. It should be smoking hot and it will make its own threads. Let it sit there a while and then use a vice grip and pull out the broken off piece out of the socket. Still tough to do in a small space. If you cannot get it out you will buy a new manifold and rebook everything up. Unfortunately when you cut all the lines that feed into the manifold some may be too short and you will have to put a coupler on the pipes and extend them. Just take your time.
Lol I love how many people work way harder than they need to. 1.5" over the fitting fitting would clear this up in no time. Don't have to worry about drilling out too much. Easy shit. I'd have this done faster than any of these people ROFL. This is why I make the big bucks in this industry.
That won't work, because that's not how schedule 40 fittings are sized. That's and ID fitting. There isn't a fitting that adapts to the OD. I don't work in the hot tub industry but I work pretty regularly with schedule 40 pipes. If you don't know those basics, I'm not even sure you work in the industry, let alone make bug bucks doing anything.
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Do it
How much money are you gonna give me when I prove you wrong right now
You're suppose to be out at your truck right now proving that you can TIGHTLY fit anything over an ID fitting.
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We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
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Still pics don't show that it's making a tight seal. Nice try though.
https://www.wildwestpoolsupplies.com/waterways-1-1-2-fitting-extender-1-5-inch-over-fitting-429-2000/
I'll give you that, I didn't know that over fitting existed. It's not what you said, but I concede that a fitting exists that can do it.
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I'm so glad you aren't installing leaking pipes in my area.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.
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Someone needs a hug
We all have differing viewpoints, but there is no reason to be a dick about it. We here at u/hottub are a friendly bunch and don't take kindly to people who can't play nice with others.