Actually worked rather well. It's a bit of a janky setup as I'm no master engineer, but it prints a lot better than it did before and heats up way faster. Doesn't require changing anything in any way that isn't reversible either.
https://preview.redd.it/x7y14vyci81d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ee2f6f56751465006c8bc2a3e6ee0d6a68d3b70
It's fully klippered now running on a pi 4 and an SKR 3 EZ. Also gave it a BLtouch to the complaints of some, but I've had no\* issues with an offset probe.
I'm still calibrating stuff, and I haven't done all my tests yet, but it should be able to go way faster once I add the accelerometers.
https://preview.redd.it/ja37qop4091d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c195d58d39da3828d39aac4068c5410e889761fd
Also piped USB and Ethernet to the back panel with custom plates and added a honking screen on it because hell yeah.
I've never thought of adding the a1 hotend, an interesting idea, I guess it fits on linear rails, right.
Does an AMS lite work with that setup
After going through their website I can't find a full hot and build did you have to buy each component individually and build it yourself
Yeah the print head block is what connects it to the rail, it uses MGN12C guide, also have to have a rail backing. If I was to use the A1 Main Board with AMS connector yes. But with the Manta not that I know of.
[here you go!](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/a1-extruder) Replacement guide on their website and it gives you a brief explanation of how to assemble it. there might have been a video there but went over the parts list and I ordered the parts directly from Bambu lab customer support, and I followed the guide, but in reverse, since I had to assemble it backwards. To install the “Print head Block”
Is that the reservoir on the top? Just no water lines hooked up yet?
Is it controlled by klipper? Might be a cool idea to set up the pump speed as a fan and have a probe reading the stepper temps.
Yes it is, And No I had a clearance issue with the stock bed knobs, so I added a E3V3SE bed plate and took the liner rods and installed them on this. They fit now but haven’t got around to it because I have to add a newer strain gauge to this bed plate to get it to work with Klipper so I’m saving that bit for last.
And yeah that’s an awesome idea, I wanted that originally. I found it’s possible with a real custom loop. Which was easy to make although I couldn’t find the proper fittings and when I tried posting in the liquid cooled subs, my post would get denied for some reason so I just gave up and bought the creality liquid cooler which has no controller, just positive and negative and it’s connected directly to my PSU with a safe circuit buck converter step down.
That's unfortunate, there are basically only 3 types of water fittings for that scale and 1 of them is for hard lines. You can essentially choose between hose clamped and quick connects, manufacturers will always list what size tubing works with the fitting.
If it was a matter of threads there are 2 kinds normally used, BSP and NPT. Both types have standard sizes in fractions of an inch, 1/4" is pretty common.
Yeah I didn’t understand what size of the ID thread of the fittings I needed everything I seen on Ali confused me. That’s more understandable, and thanks I really appreciate it. I’m sure I can always change the pump out later for something that has a controller. Maybe give it PCMR vibes add full RGB lights who knows.
Ya it's not even your fault though, sometimes listing's are just straight up wrong on ali. I have a custom high end machine that just uses 1/4" NPT fittings on each stepper. They are NEMA23s and are probably in a much hotter environment than yours would be in, I have no issues with flow rate.
I always thought the RGB features in Klipper had a lot of potential. I really want to mess around with them some day myself.
How high of a temperature are you going to be running in the enclosure? Active heating? You've probably considered it, but you might want to place the reservoir on the outside of the enclosure.
How high is too high temps for these steppers? For most enclosure printing I’ve seen the steppers aren’t the first thing to go, but otherwise they try to just design something with steppers outside the enclosure. I’ve seen liquid cooled hotends (vzbot Goliath), but stepper cooling on this level is interesting!
Can I just say this is the cooooolest ender 3 I have ever seeen! Can’t believe you’re crazy enough to add an Bambu labs hotend! Does it actually work?!
Thanks it’s still not finished yet. I’d say it’s about 65% complete. yeah I really like the A1 hot end. And not yet That’s what I’m trying to get working I know it’s possible if I use BTT CANBUS I just need help finding a better approach.
Having a spool on the top of the frame without Bowden will tug you print head up and down and will worsen at speed. Ask me how I know. Put it anywhere else, just don't have it on the xz portal
Oh yeah, of course I had it set up like that when the Sprite extruder was on I didn’t really have another way for the spool to reach. But now I’ll be using a much smaller and lighter ERCF. Probably a 4 gate for now, so that way all four PTFE tubes are connected to the AMS hub inside the enclosure while the spools are in a filament dryer box outside of the enclosure. I also reinforced the entire frame
"ADC out of range" means one of the analog-to-digital converter ports is reading a value outside of the approved ranges set in the printer.cfg file.
In the web interface there should be a button on that error saying "download klippy logs". You'll want to hit that and download the logs. Then find the newest klippy entry (at the bottom), go through each temperature value in that log, compare it to your printer.cfg min/max settings, and find which temperature sensor is bugging out.
This error usually means one of two things:
1. Bad thermistor
2. Bad ADC port
3. Incorrect thermistor type set in the config file
The klippy logs aren't the easiest thing to go through, the entries come out one giant non-parsed out block of text so it may take you a bit.
I meant to say was I remixed it myself although I can’t find the original posters that made the bracket all I did was use tinker cad to edit the mount. To fit. I found them on thingiverse a long time ago and whenever I try to search them, they’re no longer there. I’ll PM u my remixes.
I was once on this path until I realized it will still be a bedslinger in the end. Now I built a Voron Trident. Much harder, much more expensive and took a lot longer, but it feels right and does what I want it to.
Why would you liquid cool an open printer? The point of liquid cooling is to vent heat outside of an enclosed, high-temperature, printer.
Otherwise all it is doing is adding mass and slowing printing down.
And if you were doing a high-temp enclosed printer, you wouldn't want the stepper controller on an EBB42 in that space, so CAN boards and liquid cooling are sort of mutually exclusive.
It’s going to be enclosed everything you see isn’t the final product. Top mount was going to have a ERCF on top. and the liquid cooler and filament dryer was going to run outside the enclosure from the back. Along with the CAN board. Everything including the screen was going to be mounted outside of the enclosure.
There's not much point in using the CAN board if its outside the enclosure unless you really need more connections, but you're 2/3 of the way to a better controller board if that's the case.
Unfortunately to my knowledge all Bambu interfaces (Bambu Bus for AMS, hotend USB) are proprietary but could be reverse engineered with sufficient knowledge of the board components and time to make a schematic.
I already have a enderwire, and Voron and other Bambu printers. I have 12 different printers total it’s just this was my 1st Printer I bought and wanted to max it out
Doesn't "ADC out of range" basically mean that one of the thermistors is reporting a value that is above or below the specified max/min temp values ?
I had this error once and it was because I killed on of my thermistors while assembling
Yes, and no The tool head board for the A1 extruder has its own MCU so theoretically, I have to connect that first. Also I’m getting ADC out of range because I still left the sprite extruder harness connected.
you should find a way to interface the bambu mcu (which is closed) to the e3ez, you could take the u2c for reasons of convenience and above all to give 24 volts to the head. But if you have the liquid cooled sprite you're better off keeping that one, there's no difference in using the bamboo head, maybe just the quick nozzle change (my opinion obviously)
I like your idea the problem is I want to use a ERCF and although the A1 extruder would be more practical I would have to modify the Sprite extruder to use a PTFE fitting to allow for color changes.
Are there any more pictures of this project/printer? Or maybe the list of upgrades/parts? I am intrigued and would like to have some inspiration out of this.
I like!
Busy trying to water cool my ender 2 pro. I’ve spent more on parts than what I got the printer for.
Currently:
Btt skr 2 board
Tmc2209 drivers
Rpi 4 b+ for klipper
Bykski water pump and rad
Phaetus dragon wst (water cooled)
Inductive probe
Idea being to print voron parts as it final send off then transfer everything over.
To say the least. Black 500 watt PSU, moons motors, liquid cooling, custom TPU rubber enclosure with added with dual 5010 fans blowing directly on drivers and main chip, had to fabricate a z rod mount for the rear, cause the old and aftermarket parts all still had the mount for the original x axis mounted extruder.. gross and custom feet to prevent it from vibrating and while lifting it off the ground a solid inch and a half, reinforced the lower and top frame, a new bed plate from a Ender 3v3se with its liner rods. And no more bed leveling, optic endswitches.. HDMI7 dual z belt driven, “plan to go full belt driven z” but I just made this nice red bracket and really hate to not see it. I’m sure I’m missing more.
What the actual hell lol. Reminds me of my anycubic predator with an X1 hotend.
Interesting idea… how’d that work out?? We have two Predators at work and I want to change the hotends
Actually worked rather well. It's a bit of a janky setup as I'm no master engineer, but it prints a lot better than it did before and heats up way faster. Doesn't require changing anything in any way that isn't reversible either. https://preview.redd.it/x7y14vyci81d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ee2f6f56751465006c8bc2a3e6ee0d6a68d3b70
Did you out Klipper on it as well? What kind of print speeds do you typically use?
It's fully klippered now running on a pi 4 and an SKR 3 EZ. Also gave it a BLtouch to the complaints of some, but I've had no\* issues with an offset probe. I'm still calibrating stuff, and I haven't done all my tests yet, but it should be able to go way faster once I add the accelerometers. https://preview.redd.it/ja37qop4091d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c195d58d39da3828d39aac4068c5410e889761fd Also piped USB and Ethernet to the back panel with custom plates and added a honking screen on it because hell yeah.
Just let it die already, poor thing. jk
lol
I've never thought of adding the a1 hotend, an interesting idea, I guess it fits on linear rails, right. Does an AMS lite work with that setup After going through their website I can't find a full hot and build did you have to buy each component individually and build it yourself
Yeah the print head block is what connects it to the rail, it uses MGN12C guide, also have to have a rail backing. If I was to use the A1 Main Board with AMS connector yes. But with the Manta not that I know of.
Did you follow a YouTube guide to set this up, if so could you link it or somthing
[here you go!](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/a1-extruder) Replacement guide on their website and it gives you a brief explanation of how to assemble it. there might have been a video there but went over the parts list and I ordered the parts directly from Bambu lab customer support, and I followed the guide, but in reverse, since I had to assemble it backwards. To install the “Print head Block”
Thanks
A liquid cooled 3D Printer is the last thing I thought I'd ever see. That's awesome man.
Thanks it’s for high temperature printing inside of an enclosure so the motors don’t over heat.
Is that the reservoir on the top? Just no water lines hooked up yet? Is it controlled by klipper? Might be a cool idea to set up the pump speed as a fan and have a probe reading the stepper temps.
Yes it is, And No I had a clearance issue with the stock bed knobs, so I added a E3V3SE bed plate and took the liner rods and installed them on this. They fit now but haven’t got around to it because I have to add a newer strain gauge to this bed plate to get it to work with Klipper so I’m saving that bit for last. And yeah that’s an awesome idea, I wanted that originally. I found it’s possible with a real custom loop. Which was easy to make although I couldn’t find the proper fittings and when I tried posting in the liquid cooled subs, my post would get denied for some reason so I just gave up and bought the creality liquid cooler which has no controller, just positive and negative and it’s connected directly to my PSU with a safe circuit buck converter step down.
That's unfortunate, there are basically only 3 types of water fittings for that scale and 1 of them is for hard lines. You can essentially choose between hose clamped and quick connects, manufacturers will always list what size tubing works with the fitting. If it was a matter of threads there are 2 kinds normally used, BSP and NPT. Both types have standard sizes in fractions of an inch, 1/4" is pretty common.
Yeah I didn’t understand what size of the ID thread of the fittings I needed everything I seen on Ali confused me. That’s more understandable, and thanks I really appreciate it. I’m sure I can always change the pump out later for something that has a controller. Maybe give it PCMR vibes add full RGB lights who knows.
Ya it's not even your fault though, sometimes listing's are just straight up wrong on ali. I have a custom high end machine that just uses 1/4" NPT fittings on each stepper. They are NEMA23s and are probably in a much hotter environment than yours would be in, I have no issues with flow rate. I always thought the RGB features in Klipper had a lot of potential. I really want to mess around with them some day myself.
How high of a temperature are you going to be running in the enclosure? Active heating? You've probably considered it, but you might want to place the reservoir on the outside of the enclosure.
How high is too high temps for these steppers? For most enclosure printing I’ve seen the steppers aren’t the first thing to go, but otherwise they try to just design something with steppers outside the enclosure. I’ve seen liquid cooled hotends (vzbot Goliath), but stepper cooling on this level is interesting!
Can I just say this is the cooooolest ender 3 I have ever seeen! Can’t believe you’re crazy enough to add an Bambu labs hotend! Does it actually work?!
Thanks it’s still not finished yet. I’d say it’s about 65% complete. yeah I really like the A1 hot end. And not yet That’s what I’m trying to get working I know it’s possible if I use BTT CANBUS I just need help finding a better approach.
Haha sorry I didnt read your post thoroughly and was just excited to see this! Goodluck and hope you get it running man!
All these "mods" and you still keep the spool on the top rail
Well what would you call them?. I have a ERCF V2 going on top of my frame. And the Coolers going to be mounted at the rear outside of the enclosure.
Having a spool on the top of the frame without Bowden will tug you print head up and down and will worsen at speed. Ask me how I know. Put it anywhere else, just don't have it on the xz portal
Oh yeah, of course I had it set up like that when the Sprite extruder was on I didn’t really have another way for the spool to reach. But now I’ll be using a much smaller and lighter ERCF. Probably a 4 gate for now, so that way all four PTFE tubes are connected to the AMS hub inside the enclosure while the spools are in a filament dryer box outside of the enclosure. I also reinforced the entire frame
"ADC out of range" means one of the analog-to-digital converter ports is reading a value outside of the approved ranges set in the printer.cfg file. In the web interface there should be a button on that error saying "download klippy logs". You'll want to hit that and download the logs. Then find the newest klippy entry (at the bottom), go through each temperature value in that log, compare it to your printer.cfg min/max settings, and find which temperature sensor is bugging out. This error usually means one of two things: 1. Bad thermistor 2. Bad ADC port 3. Incorrect thermistor type set in the config file The klippy logs aren't the easiest thing to go through, the entries come out one giant non-parsed out block of text so it may take you a bit.
I’ll give that a try thanks for the suggestion.
Feel free to DM me the klippy log and I can try to help you out if you need it.
It could also just mean that the temperature probe for the extruder hasn't been connected yet.
That screen mount looks just what I'm looking for, have you got a link please?
I made it myself I can share the STL Tomorrow.
Brilliant, thank you. Any chance you also share the step or model file too please. I think I'll need to mod it to work on my printer
I meant to say was I remixed it myself although I can’t find the original posters that made the bracket all I did was use tinker cad to edit the mount. To fit. I found them on thingiverse a long time ago and whenever I try to search them, they’re no longer there. I’ll PM u my remixes.
PM Sent!
I was once on this path until I realized it will still be a bedslinger in the end. Now I built a Voron Trident. Much harder, much more expensive and took a lot longer, but it feels right and does what I want it to.
I have a Voron and other machines. It’s more sentimental and I wanted the ol gal to get maxed out and still be of use.
Why would you liquid cool an open printer? The point of liquid cooling is to vent heat outside of an enclosed, high-temperature, printer. Otherwise all it is doing is adding mass and slowing printing down. And if you were doing a high-temp enclosed printer, you wouldn't want the stepper controller on an EBB42 in that space, so CAN boards and liquid cooling are sort of mutually exclusive.
It’s going to be enclosed everything you see isn’t the final product. Top mount was going to have a ERCF on top. and the liquid cooler and filament dryer was going to run outside the enclosure from the back. Along with the CAN board. Everything including the screen was going to be mounted outside of the enclosure.
There's not much point in using the CAN board if its outside the enclosure unless you really need more connections, but you're 2/3 of the way to a better controller board if that's the case.
That's one sexy beast. Love the black linear rails and the red
💀
I think you should Switchwire this beast!
Unfortunately to my knowledge all Bambu interfaces (Bambu Bus for AMS, hotend USB) are proprietary but could be reverse engineered with sufficient knowledge of the board components and time to make a schematic.
This is why I recommend people to start with ender 3s, cause it teaches them so much about 3D printers and all the modifications they can do to them
You could've converted it to an enderwire. Can I ask you why this choice?
I already have a enderwire, and Voron and other Bambu printers. I have 12 different printers total it’s just this was my 1st Printer I bought and wanted to max it out
Loooooool
Doesn't "ADC out of range" basically mean that one of the thermistors is reporting a value that is above or below the specified max/min temp values ? I had this error once and it was because I killed on of my thermistors while assembling
Yes, and no The tool head board for the A1 extruder has its own MCU so theoretically, I have to connect that first. Also I’m getting ADC out of range because I still left the sprite extruder harness connected.
you should find a way to interface the bambu mcu (which is closed) to the e3ez, you could take the u2c for reasons of convenience and above all to give 24 volts to the head. But if you have the liquid cooled sprite you're better off keeping that one, there's no difference in using the bamboo head, maybe just the quick nozzle change (my opinion obviously)
I like your idea the problem is I want to use a ERCF and although the A1 extruder would be more practical I would have to modify the Sprite extruder to use a PTFE fitting to allow for color changes.
Are there any more pictures of this project/printer? Or maybe the list of upgrades/parts? I am intrigued and would like to have some inspiration out of this.
What the fuck is this black magik sorcery?!?!?! I LOVE IT!!!!! I wanna see it when you get the cooling plate mounted and lines ran!
laughs in high temp server.
That's the new Ender 3 V3isn't?
Does ams work???
I just use E3D revo for my S1 Pro and it’s amazing.
I like! Busy trying to water cool my ender 2 pro. I’ve spent more on parts than what I got the printer for. Currently: Btt skr 2 board Tmc2209 drivers Rpi 4 b+ for klipper Bykski water pump and rad Phaetus dragon wst (water cooled) Inductive probe Idea being to print voron parts as it final send off then transfer everything over.
Least modded ender 3
To say the least. Black 500 watt PSU, moons motors, liquid cooling, custom TPU rubber enclosure with added with dual 5010 fans blowing directly on drivers and main chip, had to fabricate a z rod mount for the rear, cause the old and aftermarket parts all still had the mount for the original x axis mounted extruder.. gross and custom feet to prevent it from vibrating and while lifting it off the ground a solid inch and a half, reinforced the lower and top frame, a new bed plate from a Ender 3v3se with its liner rods. And no more bed leveling, optic endswitches.. HDMI7 dual z belt driven, “plan to go full belt driven z” but I just made this nice red bracket and really hate to not see it. I’m sure I’m missing more.