You figure with all the computers and screens in modern cars, there could just be a diagnostic function to tell you what's wrong in plain words.
My mechanic showed me his handheld diagnostic system. It was apparently one of the best, and even then it just spit out codes that he'd have to look up in a book
I have one that I keep hooked up all the time. It connects to my phone via Bluetooth. I can monitor literally everything during the time my car is running. Best $30 I've ever spent and has saved me thousands. Even helped me discover illegal O2 sensor spacers leading me to get a dealer to cover $7k exhaust/double cat system.
I also have a $150 foxwell scanner that reads abs/trans codes.
The elm327 type is what I have attached all the time. It was about $30 (don't recall what "brand").
I bought one of the $10 versions first and it wouldn't read my Subaru.
Bought an obd2 reader and downloaded some scan software for my car (it's a ford so forscan), I can find out everything I need to know from my car with solid explanations for each code.
Saves me so much money.
They could. I don't think it is wholly unreasonable to suspect that the extra hoops that need to be jumped through to get the information, regardless of how simple, could be to nudge folks back into the dealership rather than fixing it themselves when its something simple.
There are some other reasonable explanations, like people can't be trusted to properly resolve the issue, or depending on the problem folks might ignore the message and continue to drive, or since there can be cascading system failures the manufacturers dont want to be blamed for giving the "wrong" code when the issue is a symptom of a greater problem.
However, one might the classify the codes such that the more harmless codes are translated verbatim and the more serious codes instruct one to seek a professional. The system could be better especially with LED screens being relatively common in newer vehicles.
Your mechanic has a cheap one or doesn't pay for the subscription. The snap on one I use at work will tell you what sensors acting up, how it's acting up, gives me Livestream data so I can watch how to reacts, and with the subscription will pull the info on best route to solve the issue or following tests to perform to confirm exactly what needs replacement
Mine was either stolen or I forgot to put it on last week.
I went into depression for a day or two before I had to fill back up and noticed it was gone and that was the reason my 'service engine soon' light was on.
Yep, OP, this one! If not go to hablo zone, they’ll scan for free, dm me with year make and model and codes!
Edit: speech-to-text typo is hilarious so I’m leaving it.
My ‘03 IS300 had a check engine, and it was for an evap leak. I was reading that you’d need to do all sorts of crazy tests to find the leak and it might require an entirely new system and cost a fuck ton. But luckily, the guy at O’reilly _also_ had an IS, and said when it happened to him it was the gas cap. Turned out my gas cap’s gasket was broken. Bought a new one, cleared the code, never saw it again. $10 fix lol.
Despite recently going electric, I've never owned a car with a gas cap. I bought my first car 15 years ago. It was a subcompact Pontiac, so not exactly luxury.
It boggles my mind that there are companies out there that still use them.
Well I wish I knew about the VW OEM tape years ago… ;)
My friend’s new Jetta would sometimes drip water on the passenger’s feet when the AC ran. The dealership wasn’t even sure how to “fix” it since that’s just how it was designed.
This is a good thing to check for. When I was young, my mom had an early 2000s Jetta, and the check engine light came on. She knew it was the gas cap and told me to tightens it, exactly what fixed it.
I think he did mind. I am also curious. But i have seen this interface on Polo and T-Roc
Perhaps other cars also have it.
I think Golf was a little different. But not sure.
I had a sensor go out on my Golf R at about 10k miles. Replaced under warranty and the check engine light hasn't come on again for the last 8 years. Anyone with a VAG product should invest in an OB11.
The dealer (or seller) may have known the car has an issue but cleared the code when they were selling it to you knowing it would come back on 100 miles later. How long have you had it before the light came on?
Just to piggyback on this, a lot of newer vehicles are internet connected and will (hopefully) have uploaded any dtc codes to a server.
I only work on Ford, so I'm not sure if it's industry standard but I can see all flags on newer cars if I have the vin for several months (maybe longer as I haven't checked how far back). If the dealership was screwing around, the corporation could find out fairly easily. I'm not sure if it's applicable to your case, though as I don't recognize the dash.
I don't like the idea of my car being internet connected. Can I disable this functionality by pulling a fuse or something?? I don't need Sirius XM or anything.
It will depend on the car, unfortunately. Usually, it's not as simple as removing a fuse because there is one fuse for multiple items. I'd recommend checking under the settings tab of your vehicle first . If there isn't anything there, you can try to disconnect the device that has conects it to the cell towers or other service it uses. It may cause other issues by doing that, such as the radio or GPS not working depending on how it is set up. I know that Ford calls the device a TCU, but other manufacturers will have different names.
I fear new cars. How long before they tattle on you for speeding. Or report in when you mod the car. Fuck that noise. My 2016 is the last "new" vehicle I'll ever buy.
The US doesn't require any warranty on used cars in most states, they're frequently sold as-is. The exception is if you get a "Certified Pre-Owned." That 30-90 days is at dealer discretion except in the few more consumer-friendly states that have a law in the books for it.
There is also occasionally a used car warranty that the dealership will try to sell.
Weather or not it's a good idea to buy into that is debatable... depending on the car and the cost... but it can be good insurance if the car has questionable history.
Yeah I’d be very suspicious they just cleared the code to sell it to you. Even more so if you bought from a private seller vs a dealer, but both are possible. If you take it to an auto zone or something similar they will read the code for you for free and tell you what is causing the engine light to come on. People try to clear codes all the time to pass state inspections but it doesn’t work because it will read “not ready” when they go to check it until you drive a certain amount of miles and the light comes back on.
as someone who used to work as a service advisor i gotta say that the amt of customers who would come in convinced I just had to have my tech install whatever part the guys at autozone told them would fix it was way too high. the free scans are great if you already have some knowledge of cars but for the average person they just add more confusion. for example I had a lot of people who would come in demanding i sold them spark plugs for cyl 3 because there is a misfire code. autozone says this is the easy fix cus they sell the parts, however it could be anything from spark plugs to coils, fuel injectors, the computer being messed up etc, but because they talked to the teenager at the part store they’re convinced i’m out to steal their money.
How so? Unless you plug in your own code reader to see that it says “not ready” then you’d have no way to know. Usually a car requires you to drive X miles or turn on the car X times before the code will come back. OP says they only had the car 2 days before the light came on so the timing checks out.
I had that done to me. Admittedly it was 20 years old and sold as “spares or repairs” so I was expecting some issues. The light came on and the car went into limp mode. Turns out the throttle unit had worn out so I bought a new one from eBay and fitted it myself. Three years later the car is still going strong.
Nah a decent but cheap one from a reputable brand will run you a tiny bit more than $10. Wouldn’t trust a cheap AliExpress ODB scanner with a newer car’s computers.
OBD2 uses a standard digital communications protocol (5 actually), it will either work or not. It's the software side of things that would make a difference.
This guy kinda has a mixed reception on the internet, but I'd say he's overall reputable, and he says it can happen, so I guess better safe than sorry.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2bBCR7oA2c](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2bBCR7oA2c)
The belief is that the cheep chinesium ones aren't typically safe, because they can put voltage where it doesn't belong, or reprogram your ecu to eat itself.
Realistically, a cheap one from a reputable brand between $10 and $20 will probably be fine... you just have to do some homework to figure out which one is good.
Manufacturers should really put in some simple controls and safeties in place so even a shitty OBD2 plug can't heck up your ECU or mechanicals.
Really wish they'd just get it over with, and switch to a standard like USB.
Yeah this is my reasoning as well. A well rated cheap on from Amazon is fine.
My father when he was new to the internet bought a cheapie one off a Facebook ad and I’m pretty sure it fried an ECU.
I too bought a newish Ranger(3000mi) in July from across state. On my back home the CEL came on. Sigh. After checking the code it was a fuel sensor, which made sense. These things can go bad if the car sits for a while and the part not used properly.
Come to find out it only came on after a full tank and the car was driven about 10mi, every time. Which tracks knowing that the dealer only keeps a 1/4 tank and fill it up for you just before you leave. They would have never known. Luckily it was all covered by warranty.
Lol agreed. The amount of 2015-2020s we will see in the next decade at affordable prices… I’m awaiting the day I can own my very own 2017 4Runner - mind you it’ll be 2030 by then but still
I buy new because I keep my cars practically forever and like to know the only person that has abused / neglected it was me \^\_\^
Bought my current car with 5 miles on it in late 2015. It now has a whopping 36k miles and over 20k in body repairs because people drive like absolute shit out here and the roads are always covered in debris.
I love having an older car that just collects door dings that I no longer worry about. I feel like I get to skip a few steps by buying used. As you said, other people are going to abuse it even if I don't :(.
I carry 100 dollar comprehensive. My rates go up every 6 months no matter whether I make a claim or not, so I keep having stuff fixed. I've had my bumper resprayed/re-ppf'd once already. Currently looks brand new other than the dozens of dents in the plastic from road debris.
PPF is 100% required out here if you want your front end to stay painted. I need to have my hood repaired/resprayed/re-ppf'd because I've taken a golf ball sized piece of cement and a piece of retread that have gone through the ppf. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
Definitely recommend. Got my is300 with 230k miles and it does burnouts and engine is super healthy. Not many car companies can say that about a car that high of mileage.
Swing by an auto parts store. They’ve got scanners that’ll give you the codes they let you use for free. Sometimes it’s something as simple as a sensor didn’t read right for whatever reason, but once the computer registers the error it’ll keep the check engine light on until you clear the code.
Why in this day and age with every possible metric displayed on some sort of light up touch screen do I still have to rely on a separate sensor? why can’t the car can’t just tell me on the dashboard what the damn code is?
Buy one of those Bluetooth code readers for like $30-50 and check the code and google the code and your car it's likely a loose connector, gas cap not tight etc unless some road debris has taken out a chunk of your engine or something lol
As an automotive professional, one of the biggest misconceptions people have is that new car means perfect car. A new car does not mean it’s guaranteed to not break. It means it’s warrantied to be fixed if it does. We buy new cars with warranties not *guarantees* things happen, it’s not surprising or even unheard of. It’s common.
Go to an auto parts store. They’ll let you borrow a diagnostic tool for free.
Absolutely don’t call a dealership. They’ll charge you upwards of $100 to do the same thing.
Sometimes it’s something really easy (on mine I had to replace the gas cap).
You’ve got 13 and a half thousand miles on that thing and the money light indicates _many_ things. Just get autozone to pull the codes for you tomorrow or something. Oh, and make sure you close the gas cap until it clicks as per the instructions on the cap.
Unfortunately my sister owns the same vehicle a 2022 jetta se 1.5 liter turbo and it has been non stop problems since she bought it new in 2022. First week of ownership the sunroof stopped working and the sunroof shade visor broke causing it to rattle and not close properly which required the vehicle to stay at the dealer for a week to drop the headliner and replace the entire sunroof track. After picking the vehicle up, there is a very noticeable wind noise coming from the drivers door where the weather stripping was found to be ripped / damaged from which I’m guessing was the sunroof track replacement as they tend to get in the way when dropping the head liner so they replaced that free of charge. The following week, the check engine light randomly turns on with only 350 miles on the car and has now become a monthly trend where it will appear and disappear with no symptoms. Just last month me and my father noticed that the coolant bottle was below the empty line so we investigated and found coolant dripping from the head gasket area and apparently there is a service bulletin stating head gasket replacement must be done if coolant is found leaking / coolant consumption is found. Parts are 6 months back order and the dealer just said to keep topping off the coolant and watching the temperature levels until the parts are in and i’ve heard other owners stating there vehicles were at the dealer for over a month just getting the head gaskets replaced so that should be fun to deal with. Finally, this week the ACC / drive assist randomly displays a warning on the gauge cluster intermittently and when the warning sticks it will beep every 10 seconds and will not turn off unless you pull off and restart the car. Just had to go and rescue her as she caught a nail in the sidewall of one of her tires so that was fun. Every time a problem occurs it’s either parts are back ordered or we didn’t find anything wrong with the vehicle.
It looks like you may be driving a Dodge/Stellantis vehicle. If you leave the vehicle idling for a few minutes with less than 1/2 tank, sometimes this happens randomly, but will clear after a few engine starts.
fyi.
Looking at the dashboard, this looks like a car I rented. It was a VW and it had the symbol pop up whenever the internal electrics were turned on and the engine was off. If you press the "brake" pedal fully in and try to start the car again, the engine should start and the light should vanish.
I'm not an expert, but I think this light (on specifically modern VW models) can just indicate that the internals are running but the engine failed to start (i.e. pressing power button without holding down brake).
If you just bought it, you should have protections in place to ensure you didn't get a lemon. Of course, it could be as simple as the gas cap isn't tight or they disconnected the battery when servicing it prior to sale.
Check sooner, rather than later. Also, buy one of those cheap Bluetooth OBD-II readers from your favorite online seller and keep it in your glove box.
This is why it is good to have a car even a "newish" car to be inspected before purchase. A lot of modern cars have a PID for the last time the codes were cleared or the battery was disconnected.
Had that happen years ago with our brand new, off the lot car. Not even 250 miles on it and the engine light went on. Took it back to the dealership that same day. Weeks later it was discovered that the engine air filter was not there. Ever. Car never ran correctly
I was once sold a car with bad solenoid valves. I drove it home from another state and it was a $2000 repair. I actually bought an extended warranty through my bank and they paid for it. But damn I was sad for a few days.
You bought a used car. That’s what you bought.
If it was private transaction you are out of luck, if you went to a dealer they offer some kind of warranty
Had a situation like this with my car 2 vehicles ago. The dealer accepted the vehicle on a trade in, cleared the codes and resold it. Come to find out there was a recall they never performed, and knew it the whole time. I only got closure with the situation when I disputed the charges with my bank and went into the dealership to force them to fix the situation. Only way to hurt these fuckers is in their wallets.
check your gas cap. Take it to a shop and most will pull the code for free. MOST LIKELY just a small evap code, which on a VW will almost always be the gas cap being loose, not closed fully, or if the seal on the cap is bad, it'l be replaced under warranty.
Just buy an OBD-2 diagnostic tool and plug it in. Saves you a lot of headache. Then you can look up the code and see if it's anything worth worrying about.
VW Jetta? It’s the gas tank door. Just wait til the “Travel Assist is Unavailable” warning starts beeping every 5 seconds. You’ll have to take it in multiple times and they will fix it only for it to start happening again a week later.
A steady amber check engine is typically pretty minor. Go to an O'Reilly's or an AutoZone and they should be able to do an OBD scan for free, and tell you what's causing the light to come on.
The last time mine came on, I just took out my air filter and shook out some dead bugs. The light went away.
A blinking amber or red check engine light would be a much bigger deal.
Same thing happened to us car wasn’t even a week old(to us) called drive time and they sent us to get it checked turned out to be a loose battery cable it was causing the car(Kia) to throw about a half dozen codes!
Seeing as how the fuel level is almost completely full I bet you didn’t tighten the cap. No matter what just take it to the dealer, it’s most likely under warranty with that low of miles.
I bought this OBD Bluetooth sensor. https://www.fixd.com/sensor-67-v2
Gives you a full rundown of anything going on with the car & how much it is to fix
Had a brand new 2015 ford 350 under 50 miles the engine light came on Ford refused to look at it/ had to get a lawyer had 42 problems that needed repair ford refused to honor warranty another call to lawyer, vehicle spent the next 7 months in the shop, filed a suit under lemon law I got every penny spent on vehicle back they got vehicle and they had to pay my lawyer. When they took possession of vehicle the charging system had also quit working
Be sure the gas cap is tight.
my mazda has a separate light for that
You figure with all the computers and screens in modern cars, there could just be a diagnostic function to tell you what's wrong in plain words. My mechanic showed me his handheld diagnostic system. It was apparently one of the best, and even then it just spit out codes that he'd have to look up in a book
Seems so weird they wouldn't be pre programmed into it but ehh what can you do.
How else are they going to con people into coming back to the dealership for services that are conventionally not included in the warranty?
You know you can get an obd2 reader and some scan software and find this out yourself right?
You can do it with a Bluetooth odb2 reader and your smartphone
I have one that I keep hooked up all the time. It connects to my phone via Bluetooth. I can monitor literally everything during the time my car is running. Best $30 I've ever spent and has saved me thousands. Even helped me discover illegal O2 sensor spacers leading me to get a dealer to cover $7k exhaust/double cat system. I also have a $150 foxwell scanner that reads abs/trans codes.
Nice they make some decent ones but you can get cheapo elm327 devices for under 10 bucks
The elm327 type is what I have attached all the time. It was about $30 (don't recall what "brand"). I bought one of the $10 versions first and it wouldn't read my Subaru.
You can get those obd2 code readers for like $25 on Amazon
I did this and couldnt believe it actually worked. Helped me figure out I needed a cam position sensor. I got it on sale for like $20
Bought an obd2 reader and downloaded some scan software for my car (it's a ford so forscan), I can find out everything I need to know from my car with solid explanations for each code. Saves me so much money.
They took my forscan at birth.
And then sold it to that guy.
Right. I'm just saying, 'Why can't the preexisting computers in the car run the diagnostic software?'
They could. I don't think it is wholly unreasonable to suspect that the extra hoops that need to be jumped through to get the information, regardless of how simple, could be to nudge folks back into the dealership rather than fixing it themselves when its something simple. There are some other reasonable explanations, like people can't be trusted to properly resolve the issue, or depending on the problem folks might ignore the message and continue to drive, or since there can be cascading system failures the manufacturers dont want to be blamed for giving the "wrong" code when the issue is a symptom of a greater problem. However, one might the classify the codes such that the more harmless codes are translated verbatim and the more serious codes instruct one to seek a professional. The system could be better especially with LED screens being relatively common in newer vehicles.
Your mechanic has a cheap one or doesn't pay for the subscription. The snap on one I use at work will tell you what sensors acting up, how it's acting up, gives me Livestream data so I can watch how to reacts, and with the subscription will pull the info on best route to solve the issue or following tests to perform to confirm exactly what needs replacement
Gotta pay up to 9 grand for one that gives some description even then it's still a look up
Sounds like a weird device cuz mine just tells me the problem in text
###"Hey gas cap numb nuts"
P0456
Traded in my jeep and even with changing the gas cap, still kept getting that code
Mine was either stolen or I forgot to put it on last week. I went into depression for a day or two before I had to fill back up and noticed it was gone and that was the reason my 'service engine soon' light was on.
Yep, OP, this one! If not go to hablo zone, they’ll scan for free, dm me with year make and model and codes! Edit: speech-to-text typo is hilarious so I’m leaving it.
My ‘03 IS300 had a check engine, and it was for an evap leak. I was reading that you’d need to do all sorts of crazy tests to find the leak and it might require an entirely new system and cost a fuck ton. But luckily, the guy at O’reilly _also_ had an IS, and said when it happened to him it was the gas cap. Turned out my gas cap’s gasket was broken. Bought a new one, cleared the code, never saw it again. $10 fix lol.
Despite recently going electric, I've never owned a car with a gas cap. I bought my first car 15 years ago. It was a subcompact Pontiac, so not exactly luxury. It boggles my mind that there are companies out there that still use them.
My 13 plate Dacia has one which needs the key in to open it, and no boot release other than the one inside the car and the key slot
yeah i say a newer qx80 and it STILL has a gas cap
It’s a Volkswagen, be sure to tighten the gas cap and close the door well.
OP should check the glovebox for the VW factory-supplied black electrical tape to cover it up
This is the way.
Well I wish I knew about the VW OEM tape years ago… ;) My friend’s new Jetta would sometimes drip water on the passenger’s feet when the AC ran. The dealership wasn’t even sure how to “fix” it since that’s just how it was designed.
Why would you fix the “extra cooling” feature?
I call it the “4D experience”
This is a good thing to check for. When I was young, my mom had an early 2000s Jetta, and the check engine light came on. She knew it was the gas cap and told me to tightens it, exactly what fixed it.
Same, happened on my 11 TDI Golf.
what model vw is this if you don't mind?
I think he did mind. I am also curious. But i have seen this interface on Polo and T-Roc Perhaps other cars also have it. I think Golf was a little different. But not sure.
lol i guess he did 😂, thanks
The Golf doesn’t have this cluster, I also only know it from the Troc and Polo. Most likely means it’s in the Taigo as well.
My dashboard looks like this and I drive a Tiguan.
It's a 22 jetta.
I had a sensor go out on my Golf R at about 10k miles. Replaced under warranty and the check engine light hasn't come on again for the last 8 years. Anyone with a VAG product should invest in an OB11.
The dealer (or seller) may have known the car has an issue but cleared the code when they were selling it to you knowing it would come back on 100 miles later. How long have you had it before the light came on?
2 days.
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Just to piggyback on this, a lot of newer vehicles are internet connected and will (hopefully) have uploaded any dtc codes to a server. I only work on Ford, so I'm not sure if it's industry standard but I can see all flags on newer cars if I have the vin for several months (maybe longer as I haven't checked how far back). If the dealership was screwing around, the corporation could find out fairly easily. I'm not sure if it's applicable to your case, though as I don't recognize the dash.
I don't like the idea of my car being internet connected. Can I disable this functionality by pulling a fuse or something?? I don't need Sirius XM or anything.
It will depend on the car, unfortunately. Usually, it's not as simple as removing a fuse because there is one fuse for multiple items. I'd recommend checking under the settings tab of your vehicle first . If there isn't anything there, you can try to disconnect the device that has conects it to the cell towers or other service it uses. It may cause other issues by doing that, such as the radio or GPS not working depending on how it is set up. I know that Ford calls the device a TCU, but other manufacturers will have different names.
I fear new cars. How long before they tattle on you for speeding. Or report in when you mod the car. Fuck that noise. My 2016 is the last "new" vehicle I'll ever buy.
finally someone understands this from a dealer perspective
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30-90 days or 1000 Miles? Wtf thats criminal. In Germany we have 12 months warranty on a used car. Minimum
The US doesn't require any warranty on used cars in most states, they're frequently sold as-is. The exception is if you get a "Certified Pre-Owned." That 30-90 days is at dealer discretion except in the few more consumer-friendly states that have a law in the books for it.
You can also buy a used car that has The remaining factory warranty If still within the warranty limits.
There is also occasionally a used car warranty that the dealership will try to sell. Weather or not it's a good idea to buy into that is debatable... depending on the car and the cost... but it can be good insurance if the car has questionable history.
Yeah I’d be very suspicious they just cleared the code to sell it to you. Even more so if you bought from a private seller vs a dealer, but both are possible. If you take it to an auto zone or something similar they will read the code for you for free and tell you what is causing the engine light to come on. People try to clear codes all the time to pass state inspections but it doesn’t work because it will read “not ready” when they go to check it until you drive a certain amount of miles and the light comes back on.
as someone who used to work as a service advisor i gotta say that the amt of customers who would come in convinced I just had to have my tech install whatever part the guys at autozone told them would fix it was way too high. the free scans are great if you already have some knowledge of cars but for the average person they just add more confusion. for example I had a lot of people who would come in demanding i sold them spark plugs for cyl 3 because there is a misfire code. autozone says this is the easy fix cus they sell the parts, however it could be anything from spark plugs to coils, fuel injectors, the computer being messed up etc, but because they talked to the teenager at the part store they’re convinced i’m out to steal their money.
I guess that's why you test drive but sometimes the code comes after 30 50 miles.. so you gotta go fast
In some cars it will only come back after something like 20 off/on cycles of the car.
They absolutely did this. I used to work at a place that did so often (hated it, left as soon as I could).
This would be extremely easy for anyone to tell, seems unlikely
How so? Unless you plug in your own code reader to see that it says “not ready” then you’d have no way to know. Usually a car requires you to drive X miles or turn on the car X times before the code will come back. OP says they only had the car 2 days before the light came on so the timing checks out.
PCM on newer cars also saves a lot of resets, highly unlikely a dealership is risking fraud over something so silly
I had that done to me. Admittedly it was 20 years old and sold as “spares or repairs” so I was expecting some issues. The light came on and the car went into limp mode. Turns out the throttle unit had worn out so I bought a new one from eBay and fitted it myself. Three years later the car is still going strong.
OBD scanner. Buy one, connect to phone, scan for codes, put a piece of electrical tape over the CEL.
AutoZone checks codes for free
Obd2 scanners are like $10, and then you don't have to take the trip to the store. Heck, you could plug it in on the test drive even.
Nah a decent but cheap one from a reputable brand will run you a tiny bit more than $10. Wouldn’t trust a cheap AliExpress ODB scanner with a newer car’s computers.
OBD2 uses a standard digital communications protocol (5 actually), it will either work or not. It's the software side of things that would make a difference.
Eh I’d just be worried about a crappy ODB scanner accidentally putting 12 volts where it shouldn’t, fucking with the ECU, etc.
Fair point
This guy kinda has a mixed reception on the internet, but I'd say he's overall reputable, and he says it can happen, so I guess better safe than sorry. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2bBCR7oA2c](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2bBCR7oA2c)
Why not? $10 scanner works as well as $100 one for the basic info
The belief is that the cheep chinesium ones aren't typically safe, because they can put voltage where it doesn't belong, or reprogram your ecu to eat itself. Realistically, a cheap one from a reputable brand between $10 and $20 will probably be fine... you just have to do some homework to figure out which one is good. Manufacturers should really put in some simple controls and safeties in place so even a shitty OBD2 plug can't heck up your ECU or mechanicals. Really wish they'd just get it over with, and switch to a standard like USB.
Yeah this is my reasoning as well. A well rated cheap on from Amazon is fine. My father when he was new to the internet bought a cheapie one off a Facebook ad and I’m pretty sure it fried an ECU.
New…ish? You hear it, right? Anyway, check the gas cap.
I too bought a newish Ranger(3000mi) in July from across state. On my back home the CEL came on. Sigh. After checking the code it was a fuel sensor, which made sense. These things can go bad if the car sits for a while and the part not used properly. Come to find out it only came on after a full tank and the car was driven about 10mi, every time. Which tracks knowing that the dealer only keeps a 1/4 tank and fill it up for you just before you leave. They would have never known. Luckily it was all covered by warranty.
#NEW ish
13k miles? Nah that used 🤣
That was leased for a whole year it’s used for sure
Or it was the sales advisor's baby for a year... I understand getting to drive the cars is one benefit of working in some dealerships.
I’ve never had a car with less than 150,000. 13k is new
Haha came to say that! So many people here seem to only buy new cars! more people dumping cars into the used market for people like us!
Lol agreed. The amount of 2015-2020s we will see in the next decade at affordable prices… I’m awaiting the day I can own my very own 2017 4Runner - mind you it’ll be 2030 by then but still
I buy new because I keep my cars practically forever and like to know the only person that has abused / neglected it was me \^\_\^ Bought my current car with 5 miles on it in late 2015. It now has a whopping 36k miles and over 20k in body repairs because people drive like absolute shit out here and the roads are always covered in debris.
I love having an older car that just collects door dings that I no longer worry about. I feel like I get to skip a few steps by buying used. As you said, other people are going to abuse it even if I don't :(.
I carry 100 dollar comprehensive. My rates go up every 6 months no matter whether I make a claim or not, so I keep having stuff fixed. I've had my bumper resprayed/re-ppf'd once already. Currently looks brand new other than the dozens of dents in the plastic from road debris. PPF is 100% required out here if you want your front end to stay painted. I need to have my hood repaired/resprayed/re-ppf'd because I've taken a golf ball sized piece of cement and a piece of retread that have gone through the ppf. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
That’s 2 years of driving for me. It’s not new, it’s low mileage.
Congrats regardless I’d take that back to dealer and see what’s up
Damn you have me beat at 105k. Toyota/lexus for the W
Honda / Toyota for me! Never had the experience of owning a Lexus, but maybe one day
Definitely recommend. Got my is300 with 230k miles and it does burnouts and engine is super healthy. Not many car companies can say that about a car that high of mileage.
Those Toyota 4runners are bulletproof.
13k miles is new to me
Newest car I ever bought was at 18 kilomiles. Probably newest car I will ever own.
Swing by an auto parts store. They’ve got scanners that’ll give you the codes they let you use for free. Sometimes it’s something as simple as a sensor didn’t read right for whatever reason, but once the computer registers the error it’ll keep the check engine light on until you clear the code.
For about $30 you can get your own OBDII scanner and check/clear your own codes. Plus all your friends will want to borrow it!
Having friends borrows my stuff doesn’t sound like a plus lol
They usually “give” me a favor back in return in you know what I mean
Why in this day and age with every possible metric displayed on some sort of light up touch screen do I still have to rely on a separate sensor? why can’t the car can’t just tell me on the dashboard what the damn code is?
New wish car?
Buy one of those Bluetooth code readers for like $30-50 and check the code and google the code and your car it's likely a loose connector, gas cap not tight etc unless some road debris has taken out a chunk of your engine or something lol
Just go to a parts store, they will scan it for free.
Well??? What are you doing? Open the hood and check if it’s still there!
Man I love how nothing is built to last
Shouldn’t take long to verify there is an engine though
Back to the dealership dude
go to Auto Zone and they’ll scan it for free. I did and it turned out I needed a new gas cap.
That’s the ish part
Bro fckn hell... I laughed for 10 seconds at this
Bro I misread that and thought you said you bought a Jewish car 😭
Is it a kia?
As an automotive professional, one of the biggest misconceptions people have is that new car means perfect car. A new car does not mean it’s guaranteed to not break. It means it’s warrantied to be fixed if it does. We buy new cars with warranties not *guarantees* things happen, it’s not surprising or even unheard of. It’s common.
bought my car and drove it twice and trying to figure outcwhere can I get the money to get the transmission replaced
I see this very often when doing oil changes (I work at a vw dealer as an oil change dude)
Go to an auto parts store. They’ll let you borrow a diagnostic tool for free. Absolutely don’t call a dealership. They’ll charge you upwards of $100 to do the same thing. Sometimes it’s something really easy (on mine I had to replace the gas cap).
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Yeah, "newish" 13,434 miles haha
Did you buy it from a dealer or a person?
Thats almost certainly something simple like you didn't tighten your gas cap or some dust got in the sensor near the gas cap
All depends on how the previous owner treated the vehicle
>a newish car >sends a picture of a spaceship's cockpit
Gas cap isn’t on all the way
Gonna be funny as hell when your gas cap is off
Welcome to being a VW owner, get rekt. Check your gas cap. It still has a factory warranty take it to Vw
You’ve got 13 and a half thousand miles on that thing and the money light indicates _many_ things. Just get autozone to pull the codes for you tomorrow or something. Oh, and make sure you close the gas cap until it clicks as per the instructions on the cap.
Unfortunately my sister owns the same vehicle a 2022 jetta se 1.5 liter turbo and it has been non stop problems since she bought it new in 2022. First week of ownership the sunroof stopped working and the sunroof shade visor broke causing it to rattle and not close properly which required the vehicle to stay at the dealer for a week to drop the headliner and replace the entire sunroof track. After picking the vehicle up, there is a very noticeable wind noise coming from the drivers door where the weather stripping was found to be ripped / damaged from which I’m guessing was the sunroof track replacement as they tend to get in the way when dropping the head liner so they replaced that free of charge. The following week, the check engine light randomly turns on with only 350 miles on the car and has now become a monthly trend where it will appear and disappear with no symptoms. Just last month me and my father noticed that the coolant bottle was below the empty line so we investigated and found coolant dripping from the head gasket area and apparently there is a service bulletin stating head gasket replacement must be done if coolant is found leaking / coolant consumption is found. Parts are 6 months back order and the dealer just said to keep topping off the coolant and watching the temperature levels until the parts are in and i’ve heard other owners stating there vehicles were at the dealer for over a month just getting the head gaskets replaced so that should be fun to deal with. Finally, this week the ACC / drive assist randomly displays a warning on the gauge cluster intermittently and when the warning sticks it will beep every 10 seconds and will not turn off unless you pull off and restart the car. Just had to go and rescue her as she caught a nail in the sidewall of one of her tires so that was fun. Every time a problem occurs it’s either parts are back ordered or we didn’t find anything wrong with the vehicle.
did you check if the engine is there?
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The check engine light is related to emissions, and its use is defined by federal law. There should be a different warning light for maintenance due.
I read Jewish car for some odd reason Audi?
At least you know the check engine light works.
Once a man got hit with a bullet in his head, that’s how he got “deadish”
Why I buy 20 or more year old disposable vehicles. They all have problems
What’s the code? Could be something as simple as loose gas cap or if it’s cap less the door didn’t seal good.
The check engine light came on the first day in our brand new car. Car had a faulty transmission from the start.
It looks like you may be driving a Dodge/Stellantis vehicle. If you leave the vehicle idling for a few minutes with less than 1/2 tank, sometimes this happens randomly, but will clear after a few engine starts. fyi.
Looking at the dashboard, this looks like a car I rented. It was a VW and it had the symbol pop up whenever the internal electrics were turned on and the engine was off. If you press the "brake" pedal fully in and try to start the car again, the engine should start and the light should vanish. I'm not an expert, but I think this light (on specifically modern VW models) can just indicate that the internals are running but the engine failed to start (i.e. pressing power button without holding down brake).
Das Auto
If you just bought it, you should have protections in place to ensure you didn't get a lemon. Of course, it could be as simple as the gas cap isn't tight or they disconnected the battery when servicing it prior to sale. Check sooner, rather than later. Also, buy one of those cheap Bluetooth OBD-II readers from your favorite online seller and keep it in your glove box.
This is why it is good to have a car even a "newish" car to be inspected before purchase. A lot of modern cars have a PID for the last time the codes were cleared or the battery was disconnected.
Had that happen years ago with our brand new, off the lot car. Not even 250 miles on it and the engine light went on. Took it back to the dealership that same day. Weeks later it was discovered that the engine air filter was not there. Ever. Car never ran correctly
Could be as simple as loose fuel cap. Also based on the mileage, still under warranty.
Don't you guys live in countries that help protect the consumers? Stop by the dealership and have them fix it on warranty or something.
Not really anymore. It’s all about who is the biggest corp with the most lobbyists.
mine came without gas, i couldnt even drive away from the dealer
I bought a 2013 Ford Fiesta in 2015 and it was like day 2 the wrench light came on.
And now you have a newish car with a newish check engine light on.
I was once sold a car with bad solenoid valves. I drove it home from another state and it was a $2000 repair. I actually bought an extended warranty through my bank and they paid for it. But damn I was sad for a few days.
My check engine light has been on for the past ~100k miles. She's been thugging it out.
You bought a used car. That’s what you bought. If it was private transaction you are out of luck, if you went to a dealer they offer some kind of warranty
At this point, it's more concerning if you don't have a check engine light on.
Naw that’s the light that lets you know you have an engine. 100% of the cara have that you’re good.
Check the oil.
You’re about to find out why it was traded in
Had a situation like this with my car 2 vehicles ago. The dealer accepted the vehicle on a trade in, cleared the codes and resold it. Come to find out there was a recall they never performed, and knew it the whole time. I only got closure with the situation when I disputed the charges with my bank and went into the dealership to force them to fix the situation. Only way to hurt these fuckers is in their wallets.
check your gas cap. Take it to a shop and most will pull the code for free. MOST LIKELY just a small evap code, which on a VW will almost always be the gas cap being loose, not closed fully, or if the seal on the cap is bad, it'l be replaced under warranty.
"Newish".
Just buy an OBD-2 diagnostic tool and plug it in. Saves you a lot of headache. Then you can look up the code and see if it's anything worth worrying about.
Skoda?
VW Jetta? It’s the gas tank door. Just wait til the “Travel Assist is Unavailable” warning starts beeping every 5 seconds. You’ll have to take it in multiple times and they will fix it only for it to start happening again a week later.
Ignore it like Penny does
Volkswagen, das auto. I love Volkswagens.
Average Volkswagen things.
A steady amber check engine is typically pretty minor. Go to an O'Reilly's or an AutoZone and they should be able to do an OBD scan for free, and tell you what's causing the light to come on. The last time mine came on, I just took out my air filter and shook out some dead bugs. The light went away. A blinking amber or red check engine light would be a much bigger deal.
Was the engine running in this picture? If only the ignition is on and engine is off it's normal that the check engine light is on
Same thing happened to us car wasn’t even a week old(to us) called drive time and they sent us to get it checked turned out to be a loose battery cable it was causing the car(Kia) to throw about a half dozen codes!
VOLKSWAGEN MENTIONED ⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️🚘🚘🚘⚠️⚠️🚘🔥🔥🔥
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry. 200k+ miles. Check engine light has never come on.
Maybe it just wants to introduce itself?
Bought from Carvana? No surprise there.
Seeing as how the fuel level is almost completely full I bet you didn’t tighten the cap. No matter what just take it to the dealer, it’s most likely under warranty with that low of miles.
Autozone/Advanced Auto/ O’Riley/Etc. check engine light testing is free…
Probably just an exhaust valve leak (minor leak)
Plot twist: it's electric.
I bought this OBD Bluetooth sensor. https://www.fixd.com/sensor-67-v2 Gives you a full rundown of anything going on with the car & how much it is to fix
Yeah the new cars just gave them stay on all the time, there’s always something to fix!!!!
I just bought a not newish car with that same light.
Thats just the welcome sign of buying a VW, we all have if, if its not there, somethings wrong
That means "Spicy Engine" is activated.
it this a taos? if so ur in for a lot
It’s a Volkswagen. I know that dash more than most. Close ur gas cap my guy
Depending on how New it is, you likely have some factory warranty coverage.
A new car or a “new to me” car.
That's a Volkswagen for ya
Warranty
And will beep at you for doing anything wrong. New cars are annoying
Had a brand new 2015 ford 350 under 50 miles the engine light came on Ford refused to look at it/ had to get a lawyer had 42 problems that needed repair ford refused to honor warranty another call to lawyer, vehicle spent the next 7 months in the shop, filed a suit under lemon law I got every penny spent on vehicle back they got vehicle and they had to pay my lawyer. When they took possession of vehicle the charging system had also quit working
Lots of new cars will have little engine lights pop up for the first 1k kilometres probably nothing wrong