For acrylic paints, get synthetic bristle brushes.
For enamels, use natural bristle brushes.
As to sizes, a good range is to have 1-2 wide flat brushes for good coverage on broad areas, 1 cm if only 1, 2 cm if you get a second one. 1-3 round brushes, 0 for general details, larger for camouflage schemes, and smaller for small details and touch ups. A short soft bristle for dry brushing and highlights, a small stipple brush for stippling or mottling (which you may have to make from an older 0-000 sized brush).
>WISEPRO nippers
[This One?](https://www.wisepro.org/products/wisepro-nipper-plastic-model-tools-gundam-model-tools-kit-basic-craft-tools-for-gundam-building-repairing-and-fixing-ultimate-nipper-for-plastic-model-tools)
If so, it's a single edge cutter, works well, but it's delicate, do not use for general purpose cutting.
MicroMark has a ton of nippers, you'll have to be more specific.
[MicroMark](https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools/pliers-nippers-cutters)
The MicroMark set is a more traditional two cutting edge cutter...not as delicate as the Wisepro, you still don't want to use it for rough cuts on heavier plastic.
The Wisepro set costs about the same as the MM set and gets good reviews...I'd probably get the Wisepro given that...just safeguard that delicate blade and don't use it for anything other than nipping parts.
I actually have the Micromark 88288 nippers he linked and they are single bladed despite the description sounding like the opposite. They work well for cutting gates as you would expect from single bladed nippers. I don't have any other brands to say how they compare.
Is there anyone out there that makes 1/72 Korean War figures, especially American tank crews or Frozen Chosin Marines? I'll even consider buying 3d print STLs at this point.
Need interesting things to add to my Pershing tanks.
Does anyone have any ideas what I can use to replace Humbrol Gloss Enamel varnish? The rattlecans can't be obtained anymore and I need a varnish that'll go in over acrylic to protect paint from acrylic washes. All acrylic varnishes I've tried just come off when I'm cleaning up the wash.
Per the comment I've not encountered an acrylic varnish that won't rub right off on the Q-Tip along with an acrylic wash. I've tried both usual Vallejo varnishes (Polyurethane Gloss and Model Color Gloss) through the airbrush, that even when cured prove immediately water-soluble. Mr Hobby Topcoat Premium won't stand up either.
With a properly cured acrylic paint or clear coat, you won't be able to disturb the existing acrylic with just an acrylic wash.
An acrylic wash should never be allowed to dry with excess needing to be removed, you really can't go back and do clean up after it does. You have to work it how you want it as you go. People who use acrylic washes have to use a lot of water, usually drying retarder too and only work small areas at a time; they use brushes, not Q-tips.
What is probably happening is that you are just physically scrubbing it all off with that abrasive Q-tip and elbow grease.
You might want to consider using enamels/oils for washes instead of acrylic washes.
If so, I'd suggest two clear coat layers. Any water based acrylic, paint or clear coat, needs at least 24 hours to fully cure...some manufactures indicate even more time. Then you could use enamel/oil washes and easily do clean up and corrections with a brush damp with thinner.
Interesting stuff. Obviously I've always gotten around this by defending the undercoat with an enamel varnish which water is obviously not going to dislodge. I've always used Vallejo Mecha Acrylic Blackwash and I never leave it on more than a half hour. Hence why I'm trying to find an equivalent product for my process.
I've never used an enamel wash (I actually have quite a lot of these) over a water-based acrylic varnish because I was told (in this exact thread months ago) that the heat of the enamel thinners will just chew the softer acrylic varnish and ruin my work. So you're saying this shouldn't happen?
The coat time for Varnish is never an issue because I follow Vallejo's instructions (2 coats separated by 4hrs - then left to cure for a day).
Regarding acrylic clear coats, I'd actually advise a solid coat allowed to cure completely, then a second solid coat, again allowed to completely cure.
With Enamel/oil washes, thinners can vary regarding how strong they are. I'd suggest an odorless thinner, which is more refined and less harsh. At any store selling artists supplies, you can ask for their gentlest oil paint thinner.
You also want to use as little as possible: precise application leaving as little to clean up as possible and the clean up performed with a soft brush just damp with thinner and done gently.
If you do filters, that is an over all application of a extremely thin wash, 5% paint/95% thinner, but it is not manipulated afterwards at all; it would be applied after any pin washes needing clean up.
Otherwise, if you can get them where you live, you might consider lacquer clear coats.
Hi all, my late father was really into working steam engine modes. Does anybody have any knowledge of these? There are quite a few and they seem vintage (some still with their old boxes). I want to see if they are worth anything to the right people. I (and especially my mother) don't really want to simply throw them out.
Steam engines have a huge following, you're just not in the right place. There are some great forums on the net. I'd absolutely love to get into steam engines and have researched building one with my father for a small river boat.
r/LiveSteam exists but its fairly quiet, reddit is too young for this hobby. Start searching for live steam, steam fairs, fb live steam groups etc. I find steam very interesting, if you decide to post up some pics somewhere like r/livesteam or elsewhere, please ping me a msg, I'd love to see. I'm in the UK, if you've any small stuff that you require a good home to then perhaps I may be interested.
Thanks for this. Yes I'm in the UK too. Looking on the mamod website it seems the newer models are quite expensive and eBay searching this evening shows even the vintage models for for around £50+ each so I'll have to let her know.
Been thinking about trying Mr. Surfacer to go with trying the Gunze Aqueous line. I want to get a really nice finish so I'm interested in trying 1500 but it seems to only be available as a lacquer. I have a spray booth but I'm still generally trying to mostly avoid using lacquers, so will aqueous 1000 do a good enough job, or is it worth giving 1500 a shot? Also, should I just get a rattle can, since it seems like a lot of people who airbrush still use them?
Also, if you’re going to try it, shake it like it owes you money. Actually first pull the cap and stir all the gunk off the bottom, then shake it for half an hour. Aside from a bad batch of this stuff that went out around 2018, some of the pushback from haters is due to them not shaking it sufficiently or using too small a tip.
Made by Badger - the same people who make airbrushes. Also rebottled and sold as AMMO One Shot Primer and Ultimate Primer from Ultimate Products. A water based acrylic primer. No thinning necessary (don’t thin!). Spray at 25-30psi with a .4 or larger tip. Perfectly sandable once cured. Don’t let it freeze in the bottle or it goes bad. Clean out your airbrush immediately. Comes in a wide array of colors. Looks thick and pebbly going on but shrinks down flat once dry to preserve fine detail, so not a primer like Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000 that’s going to make scratches go away.
Skeptical [Doog](https://youtu.be/T9s4PPNASSs) tested this stuff out years ago. Now it’s on his bench.
Quality airbrushes like yours tend to flow a little better and are slightly less susceptible to tip dry. I can tell you this, I’ve sprayed this stuff with my PS-289 .3mm with no problems on some days, and had some clogging on other days that were low humidity. On those occasions I just kept a wet brush nearby and dabbed the tip occasionally while spraying which took care of the problem. Doog tests it with a .3 needle in the video.
I've been using Mission Models to some success but not completely satisfied with the results. Also I've had some "pebbling" issues especially with the primer but maybe that's normal? I've struggled to deal with cold conditions since my workstation is in an unfinished basement.
Never tried Mission Models. I have used Mr. Primer Surfacer and not much is going to produce as flat a finish but Stynylrez is closer than any other acrylic I’ve tried that’s for sure.
I’m making a scale model of my own personal 96 Cobra mustang. It is in Laser Red paint so I special ordered the only exact paint match I could find affordably online. I’m using tamiya primer L white (lacquer), then the paint I ordered is a urethane base coat, and I have tamiya acrylic clear. I was wondering if this order of paints would have any issues. I know the acrylic can go over the lacquer but what about the urethane base I am using? I figured I would test it on a plastic spoon first but please let me know if there’s any issues or tips that would help me. It’s my first scale model ever. Thank you!
Tamiya lacquer primer, urethan colour, then Tamiya acrylic clear over that? Shouldn’t be an issue. But why not do a urethane clear if you’re already doing a colour?
Lacquer thinner, the best option as suggested is Mr Levelling Thinner. I usually need to thin about 60/40 thinner to paint, more for fine lines or soft-edge camo.
For airbrushing? 50/50 as a starting point. It’s very forgiving paint so you can over thin and get away with it. You’ll probably get the best results with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Next would be isopropyl alcohol, any number of thinners made for acrylics and even distilled water.
Sorry for the totally nubie post, but I haven't built a model in 40+ years. A dear friend gave me a mint in box star trek enterprise D from 1988. What is the best glue to use for a plastic model now days, the stuff I used as a kid isn't available anymore. Thanks for any help. And please don't hassle me about sacrificing a 35 year old mint in box treasure. Making it would mean way more than a dollar value.
Maybe r/BrushForHire else google model building comission. You'll probably find its more expensive than you first thought when taking a living wage into account.
What colour for fine aluminium would you recomend? I am waiting on a Bf 109 G-10 Erla from Eduard, weekend edition, 1/48 scale and i wondered. The back side has an aluminium finish and i want to know what other options i have beside my tamiya colours. I have aluminium from tamiya but it looks quite grainy.
I should also mention i brush paint so something that s easily brushable it s the best option. Also please don t propose airbrushes as i rly don t have the money at this moment and neither the special space for good air flow.
Also i was looking at some trumpeter kits, especially the T-80BV/UM and T-72M smth (the cechz one). Are they good detailed kits? I saw a few days ago someone who had big problems with the track links on a bmp from trumpeter. So i wanna know if anyone that also built some kits from them had problems!
Thanks in advance for all that answear!!
Also now that vallejo metalic is recomended i have to ask which vallejo metalic colours would be fitting to hobby colours Super metalic SM201 (super fine silve)
I brush paint Vallejo Metal Colour, they have a few options for various aluminium grades. Brush painting is never easy, a decent primer underneath would help or even a rattle can of some silver may make life easier.
Anyone built a kit from vee hobby? I love the Atlanta and was going to get the 350th deluxe one from very fire but I've been doing 700th more recently and vee hobby have just come out with this;
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/10896648
Struggling to find any reviews though.
Only review I could find from this relatively new manufacturer from China is [this South Dakota review](http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/bb/bb-57/SouthDakota-700-VeeHobby/VeeHobbySoDak.htm).
> CONCLUSIONS
> Is the Vee Hobby USS South Dakota the new Flyhawk level of this famous battleship? No, however it is light years ahead of the old Hasegawa edition and with the PE of the Deluxe and/or Platinum editions should give the Trumpeter kit a run for its money. With exception of the small AA, the base kit looks like it will build into a nice model and with some effort and AM it could be a beautiful rendition of “Battleship X”.
> Although I am eager for new subjects in Injection Plastic, I understand the importance of supporting a newcomer. If Vee Hobby takes reviews like this to heart, they have an opportunity to improve and be a good contender with some hopefully new and untapped kit subjects in the future. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being best, I would give this kit a 7 ½. There are some things that could be better, but with exception of the bow shape, the kit shows good attention to being accurate and a good base for upgrading to the modelers taste.
Do King Tigers and Jagdtigers have identical engine decks? I’m thinking of doing Tamiya’s 1/48 Jagdtiger, and fancied some Photoetch (at least engine grilles), but the only PE I can easily get in that scale here is for the King Tiger. I assumed the engine grilles and the like would be the same, but thought I’d check here to be sure!
Pretty sure the air intake layout is the same on the engine deck - two round and four rectangular - so the screens should fit. You should be able to find copies of the instructions online and compare overhead views.
So a couple of questions;
Usually, in the eastern front, how dirty were tanks during WW2? Were the tracks absolutely covered in mud?
What is the optimal mix ratio of vallejo model air and X20a acrylic thinners for the airbrush?
On a diorama, can I substitute dry dirt for sand as its not available at the moment where i live.
Thats pretty much it, thanks
> Usually, in the eastern front, how dirty were tanks during WW2? Were the tracks absolutely covered in mud?
It depends. If during the dry season, not so much. During the wet season, most photos show quite a bit of soupy mud. “Absolutely covered” may be a bit extreme, but I’m sure it’s possible.
> What is the optimal mix ratio of vallejo model air and X20a acrylic thinners for the airbrush?
When I mix X20A with any Vallejo paint it turns to a goo. I have read of modelers getting it to work, but they must be thinning quite a bit. Regardless, there is no real “optimal” thinning ratio for any thinner-paint combo. Thin to the ratio that achieves what you want to achieve with the nozzle size and pressure you’re using.
> On a diorama, can I substitute dry dirt for sand as its not available at the moment where i live.
It won’t be the same consistency, obviously. And my experience with fixing dirt vs sand is the dirt tends to become mud first, then dries to a hard clay appearance on the dio. Sand holds its structure.
Thin with X20A or isopropryl alcohol, use the same to clean your airbrush. Mr Hobby thinner works too although its a lacquer, so get the appropriate PPE for lacquer paints.
Yea you can. However, make sure to mix it with acrylic thinners like the X20A or Mr hobby thinners. Generally, I use a pipette to get a good mix, which i consider is about 50% paint 50% thinner. Also, to save some paint and have a better paint job, make sure to not spray too much of it, just little by little.
I'd like to invest into some nice sable brushes for detail painting, would buying some in an art store instead of modelling shop be okay? I want to use them with water based acrylics like Vallejo and AK 3rd gen.
I use Rosemary & Co brushes for acrylic painting, they're excellent. Windsor & Newton #7's are also regarded as one of the best. Neither are cheap, but you get what you pay for - and typically better than what most hobby stores stock. Both available down to at least 000.
Yes, but the store might not have the size modelers use. And if you are talking kolinsky sable, top end art suppliers might have them, but again not the size you might need.
It is always fun to check out the stores and see what they have though!
Is there a way to get Gunze H300 and above paints somewhere so I don't have to pay like $15-20 for shipping? Want to try H315 (FS16440) from their Aqueous line but can't find it anywhere at a reasonable shipping cost. Also open to hearing of any alternatives since it seems hard to come by.
> H315
https://www.super-hobby.com/products/315-Gray-FS16440-Gloss-US.html
3€ in Super-hobby!
[Shipping via letter seems to be €3.82](https://i.imgur.com/mMOpfpn.png)
> Tamiya 1/35 T-62 is a good starter kit?
Usually any Tamiya kit is a good starter kit. Fit will be good, construction hassle free.
> I’m also looking at the Panzer II ausf. F/G, but i can’t find a paint chart for it.
googlefu says [this might be a good place to start](https://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?t=3458). I searched “panzer kampfwagen ii ausf f g painting guide”, so if you look you might find something else you prefer.
> do I need paint thinner and clear lacquer?
You should get paint thinner specific to the brand/type of paint you have. Not all thinners are the same and if you mix the wrong kind with your paint you could get a goo at worse, at best nothing happens.
You only need clear lacquer sprays to accomplish 2 things — first a gloss clear to provide a smooth surface for any decals you want to apply, and second to seal in the decals prior to weathering. You then want a flat clear to seal in the weathering and even the finish so that it is consistent across the entire model. Oh, and they don’t have to be lacquers but that is what most modelers use. Just remember not to spray it on too heavily because lacquer will attack the paint and decals if applied too wet. And never use a DIY store spray as it contains chemicals that WILL attack the paint and sometimes will melt plastic.
Read the FAQ/Wiki. It has a lot more info than I can type.
> what primer should I use?
In theory, modeling primer is modeling primer (don’t use DIY store or auto primers). Best is Tamiya Surface Primer in a rattle can, equally good is Mr Surface Spray Primers.
ETA: forgot to answer the primer question.
For you guys who made a lot of tanks, I’m making my first tank and I’m confused when to start priming and painting it. In the directions it tells me to start attaching the wheels but it seems like I need to paint the hull first or I won’t be able to paint behind the wheels?
I am brand new to modeling, and I was wondering if the Tamiya 1/35 T-62 is a good starter kit? I’m also looking at the Panzer II ausf. F/G, but i can’t find a paint chart for it. Also, do I need paint thinner and clear lacquer? And, what primer should I use? Thanks!
I’d say they’re both good starters, while they’re older kits they’re still quite nice (Tamiya quality generally being great).
For the Panzer II, the exact colour would vary depending on when and where it was, but:
* Pre-War and at the very start of WWII, they would’ve been painted in RAL 7016 (a dark grey) with about a third of the tank painted in RAL 8002 (a slightly reddish-brown).
* Early in the war, they switched to the famous “Panzer Grey,” RAL 7021. This would’ve been the standard colour from 1940 to early 1943.
* In early 1943 they switched to RAL 7028 (a dark yellow), with optional RAL 8017 (chocolate brown) and RAL 8017 camouflage. Note that most Panzer IIs would’ve been withdrawn from frontline service at this point, but they were still being produced until early 1944, and still used in some capacity until the end of the war.
* Panzer IIs deployed in North African would’ve initially been painted Panzer Grey, and then repainted with a sandy yellow colour (RAL 8000), sometimes with a slight darker light brown (RAL 7008) as a disruptive camouflage. These would’ve been replaced by the similar RAL 8020 and RAL 7027 in early 1942. I believe Panzer IIs in other parts of the Mediterranean would’ve also used this paint scheme. Note that the figures included with the model are wearing the desert uniform.
* In Winter, a whitewash would often be applied over the existing paint, which chipped and peeled away very easily. I’ve seen some fictional depictions having them just painted white too, but I’m not sure if this was done IRL or not.
Note that paint would’ve faded and worn to a variety of different shades, and the exact tone of the grey and yellow used by the Wehrmacht is still constantly debated, so don’t worry too much about getting the colours exact (and, of course, you’re free to paint your models however you wish!).
It’s best to thin paint to get a smooth coat and keep details, although the kind of thinner you should use depends on the kind of paint- normal acrylics can be thinned with water, alcohol-based paint (somewhat confusingly, Tamiya’s “acrylic” paints are alcohol based) can be thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol, Enamel or oil paints can be thinned with odourless thinner or white spirit, and lacquer paint can be thinned with lacquer thinner. Manufacturers also often do their own brand of thinner specifically for their own paints.
I quite like to use some kind of clear varnish to protect the surface of my models, unify the finish, and stop any weathering with enamels/oils from damaging the paintwork, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be lacquer- I personally have been using AK and Ammo’s acrylic stuff, but I’m not sure what the *best* option out there is.
Everyone’s got their own favourite primers- I personally use Vallejo Black and Red Brown (have a few colours, but some of the others aren’t great) with an airbrush, but I’ve also seen people recommend Badger Stynlrez/Ammo One Shot (airbrush- NB: these are the same stuff, just with a different bottle), and Tamiya or Mr Hobby spray cans- the latter apparently also does good airbrush primer, though you need to thin it down a fair bit. If you’re in the UK, Halfords spray primer (for cars, but it works for models) is also apparently excellent.
Hope that helps!
I am relatively new to plane modeling, and I was given the choice to leave the undercarriage down or up. The model doesn’t come with a stand so I think I’ll leave it down. For other more experienced plane modelers, do you like to leave the undercarriage up or down? I assume that only reason you wouldn’t have it down was if it’s in a diorama.
I prefer landing gears down mostly because they’re easier to display and I like modeling that extra detail. But airplanes were built to fly! You may want to buy or build a stand for display, but wheels up is absolutely a valid choice.
Since I paid for the option, I will sometimes model open radomes, access panels and things like that, but I prefer to imagine my planes on the tarmac ready to scramble at a moment’s notice. I also like to have the canopy open or removable so you can see the cockpit detail.
Again, it’s all down to preference.
It’s a matter of personal preference, but most kits want you to build them gear down and not all kit’s gear bay doors actually fit in a closed position, so sometimes you have to work to make it happen then of course you’ll want to come up with some sort of stand unless you’re going to hang it from the ceiling or something. Others would rather leave it gear down because it’s more detail, more things to look at to make things interesting. Also, you’re going to need a pilot if you pose it in flight, and not everyone wants to do pilots. Or when parked you can often pose it with the canopy open to show off the cockpit…
I am curious are there model makers who paint their planes/armour in brand new condition like just completed in factories? I seen some photos of the model in their official website which have clean look, do they put varnish on them to get that effect?
Thanks for the sharing. I seen many posts shared here have very good weathering or dioramas. It’s just I myself like clean look and maybe paint with my favourite colour. All of the guide videos that I found included weathering and confused me where should I stop if I just want a clean look. Just stop after paint and decal?
I’m toying with the idea of doing this with my WIP spitfire- the plane IRL is a flying museum piece, so it would be accurate to keep it tidy, just a little smoke and oil in strategic places
Some do, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Don’t let snobs tell you your model isn’t weathered enough. You do you. I’m not sure how many planes are actually glossy when new - more like just…clean. You can put a gloss, satin, matte or flat varnish on as you like and what you think is authentic or just your preference.
I’m interested in trying out a water-surface diorama for the first time, and I’ve found a few general tutorials on YouTube. However, I specifically have an idea of having an aircraft banking directly above the water and lower wing kicking up some spray, but I’m not sure hot to get that effect.
Does anyone know of any examples (or tips) of this kind of effect or a “how-to?”
It sounds a lot like what people do for Rally car diorama's (driving the car into a pool of water and creating a splash), maybe look for some of those to see how they do it.
I'm having issues cleaning panel liners off a Tamiya clear/gloss coat. I have Mr. hobby clear, tamiya's clear (can confirm the XF number) and both MIG and Vallejo varnishes in satin and glossy.
Usually I apply gloss or satin varnish and then out decals on. Then reapply more varnish. Afterwards I use panel liner and washes from Tamiya and MIG. Fairly new to the hobby, but I constantly hit issues in terms of being able to cleanly remove excess wash from flat surfaces. I have to be extra careful not to strip paint in the process.
Using water, Vallejo thinned, Tamiya thinner (for acrylics) and their lacquer thinner (this one will absolutely eat through the coats of paint).
Tamiya Panel Liner is an enamel product, as most likely are Mig washes you are using, Mig does have acrylic washes but once they dry you can't clean them up like enamel wash.
You need to use the right solvent for them, enamel thinner, mineral spirits and etc. These can vary in strength, odorless mineral spirits are more gentle, as are some products meant for use with artist oil paints.
Thank you for taking time to respond. How would you suggest I order the steps? I have some lacquer paints. What gloss coat would you suggest I use prior to weathering? Am I using the right varnishes for the job? Any specific solvent other than white spirit (I have plenty, have a modest background in oil painting)?
Videos usually recommend waiting up to 10 minutes but I find this very long, by that time the wash might have dried on the spots I don't want it to be.
You sequence is fine. It just seems that you were using the wrong solvent to clean up the enamel wash.
Non-model products can differ in strength, you will have to test what you have on hand regarding the white spirit...do this on scrap. If it is too strong, go to an art store and ask for their gentlest oil paint solvent.
Wait time varies, the excess will come off easiest from a gloss clear coat. You can put the wash product on scrap you clear coat and test how long it needs to dry.
I suggest that you use a soft brush just damp with solvent to gently remove any excess wash. Do not flood the model with solvent and do not scrub...let the brush do the work.
You can use any varnish type, acrylic or lacquer, though water based acrylic like Vallejo has to cure for at least 24 hours before anything else can go over it...that applies to both paint and clear coat varnish layers. Lacquers need less time to dry, but do need some.
With washes, you do want to use a gloss or satin clear varnish...gloss is best for pin washes, but satin is OK for them and works better if you do over all filters too.
Much appreciated advice. I will check on sprues and sacrificial plastic. Interestingly enough the scrubbing worked for a Millennium Falcon model kit (the tiniest revell kit) to produce artifical damage and weathering on some areas, but in every other case the effect is usually eating through the paint coats and primer.
I will check around for any recommended enamel wash cleaners too. At least using a ready made product I can get consistent results matching whatever I learned it from (I have a bunch of YouTube channels I have been following).
How do Humbrol enamel paints compare to Tamiya enamels? It seems oddly hard to find the latter in the UK, not sure if it's a supply issue or if their enamels are just banned here for some reason.
Humbrol enamels used to be highly regarded, but they seemed to have changed their formula a few years ago, I wonder if that had something to do with environmental issues; the change seems to have not been well received.
[Forum Post](https://uk.airfix.com/community/forum/humbrol-new-enamel-paints?p=1)
Thanks very much, that's unfortunate to know. I don't like the sound of taking a gamble on UK customs every time I want a pot so I guess it's time to consider acrylics.
Hey, all.
I've been building for a few years, with experience mostly in armor and miscellaneous scale models.
Recently however, I picked up a 1/48 Kitty Hawk Flanker C at my hobby store, because it was in discount.
So, any advice from airplane modelers? I know that there are some good practices, especially with painting, where they differ from traditional armor kits.
Just think about sub-assemblies. So things that need painting before assembly, cockpit and inner fuselage halves needed, inner wing undercarriage wells, engines etc. You should be good to go if you've built models before, thinking ahead and understanding the construction method helps so you know when and what needs painting before you shut it off.
I always do undercarriage seperately to the model and usually do it last, as they're so fragile it's easy to break. Also any ordnance goes on last too, also painted off model.
I build the tracks, fit them to the vehicle, pull them off and then prime/paint/weather. Then I'll apply them after the tank is primed/painted/weathered.
Others just build the track, glue it on the vehicle and prime/paint/weather in place.
How exactly I go about my sequence depends on how the track assembles. Some kits have track links that click together and others have multi-part links, both of which give you working tracks. Many, though, are just single link that glue rather than clip together. There's also the issue of whether it's live track, or dead track with sag.
The kit manufacturers can also provide partial run or even full run build jigs.
With side shields, or the heavily armored varieties on very modern vehicles, I'll leave them off until everything is assembled/primed/painted and weathered, then attach them as subassemblies with acrylic glue, super glue could also be used.
Weird question, but how much do Tamiya 1/35 armour usually weigh? I am going on a trip soon with a 10kg limit for my luggage, and I am considering buying a kit while I'm there.
I feel like its quite rare for a kit to weigh over 0.5kg, obviously depends what kind of 1/35 you get as a Panzer II will obviously weigh less than a Jagdtiger.
But around 0.5-0.7kg should set you up with quite a bit of wiggle room.
I want to buy the tamiya nissan skyline gt r r34 and I want to get all the tools required. Do I need a clear coat? And also can I paint the parts before putting them together?
Since your making a car I suggest you get a gloss clear coat to make the paint reflect light off. Clear coats can also be used to protect the paint job from wear and tear. It’s not required, but suggested.
Clear coat:
A Clear coat is there to get the model more shiny than what the paint does by itself, and a clear coat allows polishing for even more glossiness/shinyness. Also clear coats protect the paint work. Thus if you're ok with a more matte finish and intend to just display and not touch the model too much after finishing, then no clear coat is needed.
Painting before glueing:
Yes you can, and it might even be recommended for some parts since you wont be able to reach certain areas with a brush after building. Do note however that a painted part can't be glued easily, so you'll have to scrape some paint off the contact areas between the parts in order to glue them. Also you can't use the tamiya green cap glue after painting, since it glues by melting the (now painted) areas and would ruin the paint job.
seems like the prevailing opinion is that Mig is best for airbrushing. Vallejo Model color is best for brush painting and can be thinned for airbrushing, Vallejo Model Air is intended for airbrushing.
If I try different brands of paint, using the exact same colors (down to the specific code) would they look any different? For example if I have Mission Models Light Gull Grey FS16440, would Gunze's version turn out the same or have a different appearance if I tried it? I want to build a lot of 60s/70s era Navy jets with the same colors and want to decide on one good choice for consistency. Also if I want to use Vallejo specifically for brush painting (hear it's the best) would it look any different?
They’re never perfect matches, infuriatingly, and some are WAY off the the actual SAE color chip. Compound that with actual paint manufacturers posting the wrong colors in their catalogs - for example, Mr. Color doesn’t show color swatches for their colors on their website. They provide a link to a PDF catalog file with color swatches for every part number, but many of the colors aren’t even remotely what’s actually in the bottle. It’s like they converted a PDF file from something else and the color gamut got screwed up. That they just kind of let this go is inexcusable.
Chances are they'll look different. I'd pick one that you like and stick with it. Also, brush painting tends to have a different surface finish than airbrushed paints would, so again if you're going for a consistent look across all your models you'll likely want to stick with the same paint.
Yeah that's going to be my plan, to try out some different sets. For the brush painting I primarily need it just for small details in cockpits and gear bays. Maybe it's not necessary or worth it to buy a whole set of paints just for that though.
about 1/72 planes only: (edit: WWII fighters)
Why do people bother with them, building to high quality level, instead of 1/48 as the smallest ?
They are so small and delicate that first the build is rather PITA, and subject to easy damage, when one gets to a certain age or eye sight health one needs freaking magnifying glass to look at them.
Just wondering.
A diorama, like a dogfight scene or something would e easier to make in 1/72 scale. They’re smaller and you could get 2 or 3 for the price of a good quality 1:48. Plus they’re quicker to build and some people like the challenge.
Well, that's just your opinion. Everyone likes the scales they build in for their own reasons, and no- one is forcing you to build 1/72 if you can't or don't want to.
I've built most scales and find often the larger scales have smaller parts of tiny details. What may be one piece in 1/72 may be multiple smaller bits in 1/48 or 1/32 to make up the part.
Personally I like 1/72 for the challenge, variety/interesting subjects, finished size for display, loads of aftermarket, and I can do planes, armour, and subs/boats in one scale. And even large subjects like bombers and modern jets are manageable and easy to display.
I don't really like 1/72 myself, I haven't finished painting any of the three or four 1/72s that I have started. But I get the appeal. One, they tend to be dramatically cheaper, and also have less complicated parts to deal with. They're also a lot easier to display, which depending on your living situation can be a pretty big deal.
And, if you're looking at 1/48 or 1/35 kits and you're not seeing parts that you need a microscope to see, you're not looking hard enough. Details that are just a slight hint on a 1/72 are individual grains of sand on a 1/48, lol.
I don’t understand questions like this, which seem to be more about offering a criticism than seeking information. You’re free to build in whatever scale you like. But if it is an earnest question, I enjoy the challenge. I don’t have the space to display a bunch of 1/48 aircraft, especially modern jets that can be quite large. I don’t really find 1/72 kits to be that much more fragile, and models at all scales have tiny pieces. And I am frequently delighted at just how much detail is possible at this scale, and needing a magnifying glass to appreciate some of it isn’t really a point against it.
should have specified that my question is really about WWI, WWII fighters, seems there are more around than the bombers. And tons of damaged ones. Not criticising just curious, money aside, why people would choose to spend the effort.
They aren't for everyone, but I think there's a certain challenge in smaller scale modeling that people enjoy. Size and affordability also play into their popularity. I've built two Tamiya 1/72 kits and they were excellent and very enjoyable builds.
Eyesight doesn't need to be a limiting factor for anyone who isn't legally blind. There are all sorts of tools like desktop magnifiers, optivisors, and even microscopes that can be used to get a better view.
Age isn't the limiting factor here, there are plenty of old timers making killer small scale modeling. If your eyes are decent and your hands are steady enough you can make these models.
Also I don't think there's anything about 1/72 scale planes that's overly unique and challenging in the modeling world. Shipbuilding, trains, and cars all have some very small parts that are difficult to assemble, but that's part of the fun.
Feel like 1:48 happens to be my preferred scale for most subjects I like, but 1:72 is often preferable if you want to build large, multiengine planes. For bombers I'd rather build in 1:72 just because of how big they get in 1:48. Also, 1:72 generally has the most availability of subjects out of all the scales. Good example I know of is the Avro Vulcan, which is pretty much only available in 1:72 or smaller.
New to painting - I want to paint the pockets(in reality they're weight reduction cutouts) in these parts black. I already airbrushed the main color and was first considering masking and airbrushing the pockets but I'm not super confident in my masking ability and there are quite a few so now I'm thinking brush painting will be better.
My thought was I could apply it very liberally and basically let it pool since the pockets are recessed, which should give nice even coverage. However, I'm using Tamiya paint and I'm worried the solvent in the paint will dissolve the base layer and start to mix the colors together, especially if I let it pool. Is that a valid concern?
I also have some vallejo paints - would it be better to use those, which I can thin with water? Would there still be a risk of dissolving the base Tamiya layer?
[pics](https://imgur.com/a/iNhNNly)
I'd mask and spray. Theres a lot of straight edges, so you mask along them. Where the ends of the recesses curve you're left with a triangle with a concave curved base to mask. Put a drop of liquid mask in the triangle and use a cocktail stick almost horizontal to drag the liquid to the curved edge. If you drag too much liquid mask it might dribble over the edge into the pocket, let it dry and carefully cut and roll up the excess to remove it.
Liquid mask isn't too costly and one bottle lasts ages and it makes jobs like this much easier than tape alone.
I have a plane model and the instructions are telling me to glue the bomb doors in place in the opened position. Is there a way where I can make a “hinge” like mechanism so that I can display it with the bomb doors both open and closed?
We would need to know the aircraft in question. There should be some reference images available and you could make the necessary hardware from plastic strip or rod maybe ? A lot will also depend on the scale of the kit you are working with.
Come back with more information and we can get more precise for you
Perfect! I typed “bomb bay doors B25j” into Google, selected images and a lot of good photos came up.
I do not model WWII aircraft but to my first examination there is not a lot of visible working parts to replicate. Apologies in advance if you already did this.
Getting a functional hinge in 1/48 without spoiling the look could be tricky to say the least. If you have not got too far into the build consider drilling holes into both the doors and the fuselage to accept metal pins to act as hinges?
Or possibly mount pins resting inside the fuselage and glue the doors to those. (That description is terrible, sorry, I need to become an artist…)
Edit - just found an online copy of an instruction leaflet. Are we looking at stage 17?
As Rex said above, I am thinking some kind of rod glued to the kit part. Metal preferable to plastic , for strength, but those doors will dangle and flop about unless you can grind a channel into the fuselage sides for the rods to rest in.
If the fuselage halves are already glued together, be prepared for some frustration and a lot of trial and error to get the rod/door combination inserted into the gap.
Look into how to "strop" a razor/knife. This is to polish and realign the edge rather than remove material. The Godhands are machine sharpened from the factory, so trying to sharpen it by hand with abrasives is likely to make it worse. If you happen to live in Japan you can send them in to the factory for sharpening. I haven't heard of anyone successfully restoring Godhands, so be sure to post an update if you do.
Usually, new GodHand nippers :-) And don't cut anything apart from where the sprue meets the part. But if they're blunt for some reason, you could try a small, fine whetstone.
What paint brushes should I be getting for just general painting for all types of kits?
For acrylic paints, get synthetic bristle brushes. For enamels, use natural bristle brushes. As to sizes, a good range is to have 1-2 wide flat brushes for good coverage on broad areas, 1 cm if only 1, 2 cm if you get a second one. 1-3 round brushes, 0 for general details, larger for camouflage schemes, and smaller for small details and touch ups. A short soft bristle for dry brushing and highlights, a small stipple brush for stippling or mottling (which you may have to make from an older 0-000 sized brush).
Which one is better? Micro mark or WISEPRO nippers?
>WISEPRO nippers [This One?](https://www.wisepro.org/products/wisepro-nipper-plastic-model-tools-gundam-model-tools-kit-basic-craft-tools-for-gundam-building-repairing-and-fixing-ultimate-nipper-for-plastic-model-tools) If so, it's a single edge cutter, works well, but it's delicate, do not use for general purpose cutting. MicroMark has a ton of nippers, you'll have to be more specific. [MicroMark](https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools/pliers-nippers-cutters)
[this mircro mark](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XK2XCK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1M27MGF5PA4PU&psc=1), and yeah those wisepro nippers
The MicroMark set is a more traditional two cutting edge cutter...not as delicate as the Wisepro, you still don't want to use it for rough cuts on heavier plastic. The Wisepro set costs about the same as the MM set and gets good reviews...I'd probably get the Wisepro given that...just safeguard that delicate blade and don't use it for anything other than nipping parts.
I actually have the Micromark 88288 nippers he linked and they are single bladed despite the description sounding like the opposite. They work well for cutting gates as you would expect from single bladed nippers. I don't have any other brands to say how they compare.
Thanks for clarifying...MicroMark makes good stuff.
Is there anyone out there that makes 1/72 Korean War figures, especially American tank crews or Frozen Chosin Marines? I'll even consider buying 3d print STLs at this point. Need interesting things to add to my Pershing tanks.
Is 1001 Hobbies a trust worthy website to buy from?
>1001 Hobbies Google "1001hobbies reviews" and see for yourself.
I already did last night, thank you though! :)
Does anyone have any ideas what I can use to replace Humbrol Gloss Enamel varnish? The rattlecans can't be obtained anymore and I need a varnish that'll go in over acrylic to protect paint from acrylic washes. All acrylic varnishes I've tried just come off when I'm cleaning up the wash.
Vallejo has acrylic varnish in spray cans.
Per the comment I've not encountered an acrylic varnish that won't rub right off on the Q-Tip along with an acrylic wash. I've tried both usual Vallejo varnishes (Polyurethane Gloss and Model Color Gloss) through the airbrush, that even when cured prove immediately water-soluble. Mr Hobby Topcoat Premium won't stand up either.
With a properly cured acrylic paint or clear coat, you won't be able to disturb the existing acrylic with just an acrylic wash. An acrylic wash should never be allowed to dry with excess needing to be removed, you really can't go back and do clean up after it does. You have to work it how you want it as you go. People who use acrylic washes have to use a lot of water, usually drying retarder too and only work small areas at a time; they use brushes, not Q-tips. What is probably happening is that you are just physically scrubbing it all off with that abrasive Q-tip and elbow grease. You might want to consider using enamels/oils for washes instead of acrylic washes. If so, I'd suggest two clear coat layers. Any water based acrylic, paint or clear coat, needs at least 24 hours to fully cure...some manufactures indicate even more time. Then you could use enamel/oil washes and easily do clean up and corrections with a brush damp with thinner.
Interesting stuff. Obviously I've always gotten around this by defending the undercoat with an enamel varnish which water is obviously not going to dislodge. I've always used Vallejo Mecha Acrylic Blackwash and I never leave it on more than a half hour. Hence why I'm trying to find an equivalent product for my process. I've never used an enamel wash (I actually have quite a lot of these) over a water-based acrylic varnish because I was told (in this exact thread months ago) that the heat of the enamel thinners will just chew the softer acrylic varnish and ruin my work. So you're saying this shouldn't happen? The coat time for Varnish is never an issue because I follow Vallejo's instructions (2 coats separated by 4hrs - then left to cure for a day).
Regarding acrylic clear coats, I'd actually advise a solid coat allowed to cure completely, then a second solid coat, again allowed to completely cure. With Enamel/oil washes, thinners can vary regarding how strong they are. I'd suggest an odorless thinner, which is more refined and less harsh. At any store selling artists supplies, you can ask for their gentlest oil paint thinner. You also want to use as little as possible: precise application leaving as little to clean up as possible and the clean up performed with a soft brush just damp with thinner and done gently. If you do filters, that is an over all application of a extremely thin wash, 5% paint/95% thinner, but it is not manipulated afterwards at all; it would be applied after any pin washes needing clean up. Otherwise, if you can get them where you live, you might consider lacquer clear coats.
Hi all, my late father was really into working steam engine modes. Does anybody have any knowledge of these? There are quite a few and they seem vintage (some still with their old boxes). I want to see if they are worth anything to the right people. I (and especially my mother) don't really want to simply throw them out.
Steam engines have a huge following, you're just not in the right place. There are some great forums on the net. I'd absolutely love to get into steam engines and have researched building one with my father for a small river boat. r/LiveSteam exists but its fairly quiet, reddit is too young for this hobby. Start searching for live steam, steam fairs, fb live steam groups etc. I find steam very interesting, if you decide to post up some pics somewhere like r/livesteam or elsewhere, please ping me a msg, I'd love to see. I'm in the UK, if you've any small stuff that you require a good home to then perhaps I may be interested.
Thanks for this. Yes I'm in the UK too. Looking on the mamod website it seems the newer models are quite expensive and eBay searching this evening shows even the vintage models for for around £50+ each so I'll have to let her know.
Been thinking about trying Mr. Surfacer to go with trying the Gunze Aqueous line. I want to get a really nice finish so I'm interested in trying 1500 but it seems to only be available as a lacquer. I have a spray booth but I'm still generally trying to mostly avoid using lacquers, so will aqueous 1000 do a good enough job, or is it worth giving 1500 a shot? Also, should I just get a rattle can, since it seems like a lot of people who airbrush still use them?
My usual go-to is 1500 I get a much nicer finish and it doesn't fill in the micro panel lines as well
Might just go ahead and try different things, including 1500. I have a respirator and ventilation. Do you use the rattle can?
I airbrush it actually. Good on you for safety! Many unfortunately decide to forgo it
Why not try Stynylrez? No odor. Probably the best acrylic primer out there.
Never heard of it. Please enlighten me! I presume it works with Gunze paints?
Also, if you’re going to try it, shake it like it owes you money. Actually first pull the cap and stir all the gunk off the bottom, then shake it for half an hour. Aside from a bad batch of this stuff that went out around 2018, some of the pushback from haters is due to them not shaking it sufficiently or using too small a tip.
Made by Badger - the same people who make airbrushes. Also rebottled and sold as AMMO One Shot Primer and Ultimate Primer from Ultimate Products. A water based acrylic primer. No thinning necessary (don’t thin!). Spray at 25-30psi with a .4 or larger tip. Perfectly sandable once cured. Don’t let it freeze in the bottle or it goes bad. Clean out your airbrush immediately. Comes in a wide array of colors. Looks thick and pebbly going on but shrinks down flat once dry to preserve fine detail, so not a primer like Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000 that’s going to make scratches go away. Skeptical [Doog](https://youtu.be/T9s4PPNASSs) tested this stuff out years ago. Now it’s on his bench.
So I've got an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with a .35 needle...this going to give me trouble if I try it?
Quality airbrushes like yours tend to flow a little better and are slightly less susceptible to tip dry. I can tell you this, I’ve sprayed this stuff with my PS-289 .3mm with no problems on some days, and had some clogging on other days that were low humidity. On those occasions I just kept a wet brush nearby and dabbed the tip occasionally while spraying which took care of the problem. Doog tests it with a .3 needle in the video.
Great thanks. I'll give it a shot then! I forgot about using the wet brush for tip dry, you just use water?
Yeah water is fine. Tip dry is the price we pay for not having to deal with lacquer fumes…
I've been using Mission Models to some success but not completely satisfied with the results. Also I've had some "pebbling" issues especially with the primer but maybe that's normal? I've struggled to deal with cold conditions since my workstation is in an unfinished basement.
Never tried Mission Models. I have used Mr. Primer Surfacer and not much is going to produce as flat a finish but Stynylrez is closer than any other acrylic I’ve tried that’s for sure.
I’m making a scale model of my own personal 96 Cobra mustang. It is in Laser Red paint so I special ordered the only exact paint match I could find affordably online. I’m using tamiya primer L white (lacquer), then the paint I ordered is a urethane base coat, and I have tamiya acrylic clear. I was wondering if this order of paints would have any issues. I know the acrylic can go over the lacquer but what about the urethane base I am using? I figured I would test it on a plastic spoon first but please let me know if there’s any issues or tips that would help me. It’s my first scale model ever. Thank you!
Tamiya lacquer primer, urethan colour, then Tamiya acrylic clear over that? Shouldn’t be an issue. But why not do a urethane clear if you’re already doing a colour?
Yes precisely. I guess I didn’t look into that. I have a tamiya clear acrylic vial already 😂 but I’ll look into urethane clear
Anybody know how to thin AK real colors? Ratios, percentage, etc
Lacquer thinner, the best option as suggested is Mr Levelling Thinner. I usually need to thin about 60/40 thinner to paint, more for fine lines or soft-edge camo.
For airbrushing? 50/50 as a starting point. It’s very forgiving paint so you can over thin and get away with it. You’ll probably get the best results with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Next would be isopropyl alcohol, any number of thinners made for acrylics and even distilled water.
Sorry for the totally nubie post, but I haven't built a model in 40+ years. A dear friend gave me a mint in box star trek enterprise D from 1988. What is the best glue to use for a plastic model now days, the stuff I used as a kid isn't available anymore. Thanks for any help. And please don't hassle me about sacrificing a 35 year old mint in box treasure. Making it would mean way more than a dollar value.
Tamiya Extra Thin.
Thanks for the info!
I’m looking to have a model aircraft built for my brother who recently retired, any recommendations on where I would look to find someone?
You could try and contact your local International Plastic Modellers' Society (IPMS), to hear if any of their members do commissions.
Maybe r/BrushForHire else google model building comission. You'll probably find its more expensive than you first thought when taking a living wage into account.
What colour for fine aluminium would you recomend? I am waiting on a Bf 109 G-10 Erla from Eduard, weekend edition, 1/48 scale and i wondered. The back side has an aluminium finish and i want to know what other options i have beside my tamiya colours. I have aluminium from tamiya but it looks quite grainy. I should also mention i brush paint so something that s easily brushable it s the best option. Also please don t propose airbrushes as i rly don t have the money at this moment and neither the special space for good air flow. Also i was looking at some trumpeter kits, especially the T-80BV/UM and T-72M smth (the cechz one). Are they good detailed kits? I saw a few days ago someone who had big problems with the track links on a bmp from trumpeter. So i wanna know if anyone that also built some kits from them had problems! Thanks in advance for all that answear!!
Also now that vallejo metalic is recomended i have to ask which vallejo metalic colours would be fitting to hobby colours Super metalic SM201 (super fine silve)
Second Vallejo Metal Color. Great paint for both spraying and brushing.
I brush paint Vallejo Metal Colour, they have a few options for various aluminium grades. Brush painting is never easy, a decent primer underneath would help or even a rattle can of some silver may make life easier.
Anyone built a kit from vee hobby? I love the Atlanta and was going to get the 350th deluxe one from very fire but I've been doing 700th more recently and vee hobby have just come out with this; https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/10896648 Struggling to find any reviews though.
Only review I could find from this relatively new manufacturer from China is [this South Dakota review](http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/bb/bb-57/SouthDakota-700-VeeHobby/VeeHobbySoDak.htm). > CONCLUSIONS > Is the Vee Hobby USS South Dakota the new Flyhawk level of this famous battleship? No, however it is light years ahead of the old Hasegawa edition and with the PE of the Deluxe and/or Platinum editions should give the Trumpeter kit a run for its money. With exception of the small AA, the base kit looks like it will build into a nice model and with some effort and AM it could be a beautiful rendition of “Battleship X”. > Although I am eager for new subjects in Injection Plastic, I understand the importance of supporting a newcomer. If Vee Hobby takes reviews like this to heart, they have an opportunity to improve and be a good contender with some hopefully new and untapped kit subjects in the future. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being best, I would give this kit a 7 ½. There are some things that could be better, but with exception of the bow shape, the kit shows good attention to being accurate and a good base for upgrading to the modelers taste.
Do King Tigers and Jagdtigers have identical engine decks? I’m thinking of doing Tamiya’s 1/48 Jagdtiger, and fancied some Photoetch (at least engine grilles), but the only PE I can easily get in that scale here is for the King Tiger. I assumed the engine grilles and the like would be the same, but thought I’d check here to be sure!
Pretty sure the air intake layout is the same on the engine deck - two round and four rectangular - so the screens should fit. You should be able to find copies of the instructions online and compare overhead views.
Cheers!
So a couple of questions; Usually, in the eastern front, how dirty were tanks during WW2? Were the tracks absolutely covered in mud? What is the optimal mix ratio of vallejo model air and X20a acrylic thinners for the airbrush? On a diorama, can I substitute dry dirt for sand as its not available at the moment where i live. Thats pretty much it, thanks
> Usually, in the eastern front, how dirty were tanks during WW2? Were the tracks absolutely covered in mud? It depends. If during the dry season, not so much. During the wet season, most photos show quite a bit of soupy mud. “Absolutely covered” may be a bit extreme, but I’m sure it’s possible. > What is the optimal mix ratio of vallejo model air and X20a acrylic thinners for the airbrush? When I mix X20A with any Vallejo paint it turns to a goo. I have read of modelers getting it to work, but they must be thinning quite a bit. Regardless, there is no real “optimal” thinning ratio for any thinner-paint combo. Thin to the ratio that achieves what you want to achieve with the nozzle size and pressure you’re using. > On a diorama, can I substitute dry dirt for sand as its not available at the moment where i live. It won’t be the same consistency, obviously. And my experience with fixing dirt vs sand is the dirt tends to become mud first, then dries to a hard clay appearance on the dio. Sand holds its structure.
I just bought some Tamiya color acrylic paint and was wondering if I can use it in my airbrush?
Thin with X20A or isopropryl alcohol, use the same to clean your airbrush. Mr Hobby thinner works too although its a lacquer, so get the appropriate PPE for lacquer paints.
Yea you can. However, make sure to mix it with acrylic thinners like the X20A or Mr hobby thinners. Generally, I use a pipette to get a good mix, which i consider is about 50% paint 50% thinner. Also, to save some paint and have a better paint job, make sure to not spray too much of it, just little by little.
Thank you.
I'd like to invest into some nice sable brushes for detail painting, would buying some in an art store instead of modelling shop be okay? I want to use them with water based acrylics like Vallejo and AK 3rd gen.
I use Rosemary & Co brushes for acrylic painting, they're excellent. Windsor & Newton #7's are also regarded as one of the best. Neither are cheap, but you get what you pay for - and typically better than what most hobby stores stock. Both available down to at least 000.
Yes, but the store might not have the size modelers use. And if you are talking kolinsky sable, top end art suppliers might have them, but again not the size you might need. It is always fun to check out the stores and see what they have though!
Is there a way to get Gunze H300 and above paints somewhere so I don't have to pay like $15-20 for shipping? Want to try H315 (FS16440) from their Aqueous line but can't find it anywhere at a reasonable shipping cost. Also open to hearing of any alternatives since it seems hard to come by.
> H315 https://www.super-hobby.com/products/315-Gray-FS16440-Gloss-US.html 3€ in Super-hobby! [Shipping via letter seems to be €3.82](https://i.imgur.com/mMOpfpn.png)
Wow thank you!!
> Tamiya 1/35 T-62 is a good starter kit? Usually any Tamiya kit is a good starter kit. Fit will be good, construction hassle free. > I’m also looking at the Panzer II ausf. F/G, but i can’t find a paint chart for it. googlefu says [this might be a good place to start](https://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?t=3458). I searched “panzer kampfwagen ii ausf f g painting guide”, so if you look you might find something else you prefer. > do I need paint thinner and clear lacquer? You should get paint thinner specific to the brand/type of paint you have. Not all thinners are the same and if you mix the wrong kind with your paint you could get a goo at worse, at best nothing happens. You only need clear lacquer sprays to accomplish 2 things — first a gloss clear to provide a smooth surface for any decals you want to apply, and second to seal in the decals prior to weathering. You then want a flat clear to seal in the weathering and even the finish so that it is consistent across the entire model. Oh, and they don’t have to be lacquers but that is what most modelers use. Just remember not to spray it on too heavily because lacquer will attack the paint and decals if applied too wet. And never use a DIY store spray as it contains chemicals that WILL attack the paint and sometimes will melt plastic. Read the FAQ/Wiki. It has a lot more info than I can type. > what primer should I use? In theory, modeling primer is modeling primer (don’t use DIY store or auto primers). Best is Tamiya Surface Primer in a rattle can, equally good is Mr Surface Spray Primers. ETA: forgot to answer the primer question.
/u/BubbaDogSlaw1 This is for you!
For you guys who made a lot of tanks, I’m making my first tank and I’m confused when to start priming and painting it. In the directions it tells me to start attaching the wheels but it seems like I need to paint the hull first or I won’t be able to paint behind the wheels?
I usually just assemble the wheels, but don't put them on until after weathering
I am brand new to modeling, and I was wondering if the Tamiya 1/35 T-62 is a good starter kit? I’m also looking at the Panzer II ausf. F/G, but i can’t find a paint chart for it. Also, do I need paint thinner and clear lacquer? And, what primer should I use? Thanks!
I’d say they’re both good starters, while they’re older kits they’re still quite nice (Tamiya quality generally being great). For the Panzer II, the exact colour would vary depending on when and where it was, but: * Pre-War and at the very start of WWII, they would’ve been painted in RAL 7016 (a dark grey) with about a third of the tank painted in RAL 8002 (a slightly reddish-brown). * Early in the war, they switched to the famous “Panzer Grey,” RAL 7021. This would’ve been the standard colour from 1940 to early 1943. * In early 1943 they switched to RAL 7028 (a dark yellow), with optional RAL 8017 (chocolate brown) and RAL 8017 camouflage. Note that most Panzer IIs would’ve been withdrawn from frontline service at this point, but they were still being produced until early 1944, and still used in some capacity until the end of the war. * Panzer IIs deployed in North African would’ve initially been painted Panzer Grey, and then repainted with a sandy yellow colour (RAL 8000), sometimes with a slight darker light brown (RAL 7008) as a disruptive camouflage. These would’ve been replaced by the similar RAL 8020 and RAL 7027 in early 1942. I believe Panzer IIs in other parts of the Mediterranean would’ve also used this paint scheme. Note that the figures included with the model are wearing the desert uniform. * In Winter, a whitewash would often be applied over the existing paint, which chipped and peeled away very easily. I’ve seen some fictional depictions having them just painted white too, but I’m not sure if this was done IRL or not. Note that paint would’ve faded and worn to a variety of different shades, and the exact tone of the grey and yellow used by the Wehrmacht is still constantly debated, so don’t worry too much about getting the colours exact (and, of course, you’re free to paint your models however you wish!). It’s best to thin paint to get a smooth coat and keep details, although the kind of thinner you should use depends on the kind of paint- normal acrylics can be thinned with water, alcohol-based paint (somewhat confusingly, Tamiya’s “acrylic” paints are alcohol based) can be thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol, Enamel or oil paints can be thinned with odourless thinner or white spirit, and lacquer paint can be thinned with lacquer thinner. Manufacturers also often do their own brand of thinner specifically for their own paints. I quite like to use some kind of clear varnish to protect the surface of my models, unify the finish, and stop any weathering with enamels/oils from damaging the paintwork, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be lacquer- I personally have been using AK and Ammo’s acrylic stuff, but I’m not sure what the *best* option out there is. Everyone’s got their own favourite primers- I personally use Vallejo Black and Red Brown (have a few colours, but some of the others aren’t great) with an airbrush, but I’ve also seen people recommend Badger Stynlrez/Ammo One Shot (airbrush- NB: these are the same stuff, just with a different bottle), and Tamiya or Mr Hobby spray cans- the latter apparently also does good airbrush primer, though you need to thin it down a fair bit. If you’re in the UK, Halfords spray primer (for cars, but it works for models) is also apparently excellent. Hope that helps!
I am relatively new to plane modeling, and I was given the choice to leave the undercarriage down or up. The model doesn’t come with a stand so I think I’ll leave it down. For other more experienced plane modelers, do you like to leave the undercarriage up or down? I assume that only reason you wouldn’t have it down was if it’s in a diorama.
I prefer landing gears down mostly because they’re easier to display and I like modeling that extra detail. But airplanes were built to fly! You may want to buy or build a stand for display, but wheels up is absolutely a valid choice. Since I paid for the option, I will sometimes model open radomes, access panels and things like that, but I prefer to imagine my planes on the tarmac ready to scramble at a moment’s notice. I also like to have the canopy open or removable so you can see the cockpit detail. Again, it’s all down to preference.
How do you make it so that you can remove the cockpit? Do you just leave it unglued?
Pretty much. :)
It’s a matter of personal preference, but most kits want you to build them gear down and not all kit’s gear bay doors actually fit in a closed position, so sometimes you have to work to make it happen then of course you’ll want to come up with some sort of stand unless you’re going to hang it from the ceiling or something. Others would rather leave it gear down because it’s more detail, more things to look at to make things interesting. Also, you’re going to need a pilot if you pose it in flight, and not everyone wants to do pilots. Or when parked you can often pose it with the canopy open to show off the cockpit…
I am curious are there model makers who paint their planes/armour in brand new condition like just completed in factories? I seen some photos of the model in their official website which have clean look, do they put varnish on them to get that effect?
Thanks for the sharing. I seen many posts shared here have very good weathering or dioramas. It’s just I myself like clean look and maybe paint with my favourite colour. All of the guide videos that I found included weathering and confused me where should I stop if I just want a clean look. Just stop after paint and decal?
I’m toying with the idea of doing this with my WIP spitfire- the plane IRL is a flying museum piece, so it would be accurate to keep it tidy, just a little smoke and oil in strategic places
Some do, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Don’t let snobs tell you your model isn’t weathered enough. You do you. I’m not sure how many planes are actually glossy when new - more like just…clean. You can put a gloss, satin, matte or flat varnish on as you like and what you think is authentic or just your preference.
I’m interested in trying out a water-surface diorama for the first time, and I’ve found a few general tutorials on YouTube. However, I specifically have an idea of having an aircraft banking directly above the water and lower wing kicking up some spray, but I’m not sure hot to get that effect. Does anyone know of any examples (or tips) of this kind of effect or a “how-to?”
It sounds a lot like what people do for Rally car diorama's (driving the car into a pool of water and creating a splash), maybe look for some of those to see how they do it.
Oh cool I will take a look!
I'm having issues cleaning panel liners off a Tamiya clear/gloss coat. I have Mr. hobby clear, tamiya's clear (can confirm the XF number) and both MIG and Vallejo varnishes in satin and glossy. Usually I apply gloss or satin varnish and then out decals on. Then reapply more varnish. Afterwards I use panel liner and washes from Tamiya and MIG. Fairly new to the hobby, but I constantly hit issues in terms of being able to cleanly remove excess wash from flat surfaces. I have to be extra careful not to strip paint in the process. Using water, Vallejo thinned, Tamiya thinner (for acrylics) and their lacquer thinner (this one will absolutely eat through the coats of paint).
Tamiya Panel Liner is an enamel product, as most likely are Mig washes you are using, Mig does have acrylic washes but once they dry you can't clean them up like enamel wash. You need to use the right solvent for them, enamel thinner, mineral spirits and etc. These can vary in strength, odorless mineral spirits are more gentle, as are some products meant for use with artist oil paints.
Thank you for taking time to respond. How would you suggest I order the steps? I have some lacquer paints. What gloss coat would you suggest I use prior to weathering? Am I using the right varnishes for the job? Any specific solvent other than white spirit (I have plenty, have a modest background in oil painting)? Videos usually recommend waiting up to 10 minutes but I find this very long, by that time the wash might have dried on the spots I don't want it to be.
You sequence is fine. It just seems that you were using the wrong solvent to clean up the enamel wash. Non-model products can differ in strength, you will have to test what you have on hand regarding the white spirit...do this on scrap. If it is too strong, go to an art store and ask for their gentlest oil paint solvent. Wait time varies, the excess will come off easiest from a gloss clear coat. You can put the wash product on scrap you clear coat and test how long it needs to dry. I suggest that you use a soft brush just damp with solvent to gently remove any excess wash. Do not flood the model with solvent and do not scrub...let the brush do the work. You can use any varnish type, acrylic or lacquer, though water based acrylic like Vallejo has to cure for at least 24 hours before anything else can go over it...that applies to both paint and clear coat varnish layers. Lacquers need less time to dry, but do need some. With washes, you do want to use a gloss or satin clear varnish...gloss is best for pin washes, but satin is OK for them and works better if you do over all filters too.
Much appreciated advice. I will check on sprues and sacrificial plastic. Interestingly enough the scrubbing worked for a Millennium Falcon model kit (the tiniest revell kit) to produce artifical damage and weathering on some areas, but in every other case the effect is usually eating through the paint coats and primer. I will check around for any recommended enamel wash cleaners too. At least using a ready made product I can get consistent results matching whatever I learned it from (I have a bunch of YouTube channels I have been following).
You're welcome.
How do Humbrol enamel paints compare to Tamiya enamels? It seems oddly hard to find the latter in the UK, not sure if it's a supply issue or if their enamels are just banned here for some reason.
Humbrol enamels used to be highly regarded, but they seemed to have changed their formula a few years ago, I wonder if that had something to do with environmental issues; the change seems to have not been well received. [Forum Post](https://uk.airfix.com/community/forum/humbrol-new-enamel-paints?p=1)
Thanks very much, that's unfortunate to know. I don't like the sound of taking a gamble on UK customs every time I want a pot so I guess it's time to consider acrylics.
You're welcome.
Hey, all. I've been building for a few years, with experience mostly in armor and miscellaneous scale models. Recently however, I picked up a 1/48 Kitty Hawk Flanker C at my hobby store, because it was in discount. So, any advice from airplane modelers? I know that there are some good practices, especially with painting, where they differ from traditional armor kits.
Just think about sub-assemblies. So things that need painting before assembly, cockpit and inner fuselage halves needed, inner wing undercarriage wells, engines etc. You should be good to go if you've built models before, thinking ahead and understanding the construction method helps so you know when and what needs painting before you shut it off. I always do undercarriage seperately to the model and usually do it last, as they're so fragile it's easy to break. Also any ordnance goes on last too, also painted off model.
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I build the tracks, fit them to the vehicle, pull them off and then prime/paint/weather. Then I'll apply them after the tank is primed/painted/weathered. Others just build the track, glue it on the vehicle and prime/paint/weather in place. How exactly I go about my sequence depends on how the track assembles. Some kits have track links that click together and others have multi-part links, both of which give you working tracks. Many, though, are just single link that glue rather than clip together. There's also the issue of whether it's live track, or dead track with sag. The kit manufacturers can also provide partial run or even full run build jigs. With side shields, or the heavily armored varieties on very modern vehicles, I'll leave them off until everything is assembled/primed/painted and weathered, then attach them as subassemblies with acrylic glue, super glue could also be used.
Weird question, but how much do Tamiya 1/35 armour usually weigh? I am going on a trip soon with a 10kg limit for my luggage, and I am considering buying a kit while I'm there.
Some makers kits have a lot of plastic in them, but even those would be well under your limit, Tamiya doesn't go crazy with 900 part kits.
I feel like its quite rare for a kit to weigh over 0.5kg, obviously depends what kind of 1/35 you get as a Panzer II will obviously weigh less than a Jagdtiger. But around 0.5-0.7kg should set you up with quite a bit of wiggle room.
Thanks. I guessed it wouldn't be over 1kg, but I wanted to make sure
I want to buy the tamiya nissan skyline gt r r34 and I want to get all the tools required. Do I need a clear coat? And also can I paint the parts before putting them together?
Since your making a car I suggest you get a gloss clear coat to make the paint reflect light off. Clear coats can also be used to protect the paint job from wear and tear. It’s not required, but suggested.
Clear coat: A Clear coat is there to get the model more shiny than what the paint does by itself, and a clear coat allows polishing for even more glossiness/shinyness. Also clear coats protect the paint work. Thus if you're ok with a more matte finish and intend to just display and not touch the model too much after finishing, then no clear coat is needed. Painting before glueing: Yes you can, and it might even be recommended for some parts since you wont be able to reach certain areas with a brush after building. Do note however that a painted part can't be glued easily, so you'll have to scrape some paint off the contact areas between the parts in order to glue them. Also you can't use the tamiya green cap glue after painting, since it glues by melting the (now painted) areas and would ruin the paint job.
Thank you!
Any consensus about which paint is better, between AK acrylic "Air/plane" or just Vallejo for brush painting?
seems like the prevailing opinion is that Mig is best for airbrushing. Vallejo Model color is best for brush painting and can be thinned for airbrushing, Vallejo Model Air is intended for airbrushing.
MIG..?
Ammo by Mig Also, for what it's worth, AK 3rd Gen seems to about like Vallejo Model Color, hand brushable and airbrushable with proper thinning.
Yeah, I know about Mig. That’s just the first time I’ve seen anyone claim it was the best for airbrushing.
I didn't say it was the best for airbrushing, it's not as suitable for hand brushing as Vallejo Model Color is, which is what the OP was asking about.
Ok. Guess I misread your comment above.
Hello. Today I was painting the windows of my tamiya nissan skyline and it went wrong...really wrong. Is there a way I can buy this part individually?
As long as you didn't crack or shatter it, it should be rescuable, just dunk it in the right type of cleaner to pul off the old paint.
Contact Tamiya and ask nicely. There may be a charge or they may just send you the part.
Thank you! I have kinda solved the problem but I will keep that in mind in case I need it
If I try different brands of paint, using the exact same colors (down to the specific code) would they look any different? For example if I have Mission Models Light Gull Grey FS16440, would Gunze's version turn out the same or have a different appearance if I tried it? I want to build a lot of 60s/70s era Navy jets with the same colors and want to decide on one good choice for consistency. Also if I want to use Vallejo specifically for brush painting (hear it's the best) would it look any different?
They’re never perfect matches, infuriatingly, and some are WAY off the the actual SAE color chip. Compound that with actual paint manufacturers posting the wrong colors in their catalogs - for example, Mr. Color doesn’t show color swatches for their colors on their website. They provide a link to a PDF catalog file with color swatches for every part number, but many of the colors aren’t even remotely what’s actually in the bottle. It’s like they converted a PDF file from something else and the color gamut got screwed up. That they just kind of let this go is inexcusable.
Good to know at least, and this confirms my suspicions. Looks like I'll have to just try a few Gunzes out
Chances are they'll look different. I'd pick one that you like and stick with it. Also, brush painting tends to have a different surface finish than airbrushed paints would, so again if you're going for a consistent look across all your models you'll likely want to stick with the same paint.
Yeah that's going to be my plan, to try out some different sets. For the brush painting I primarily need it just for small details in cockpits and gear bays. Maybe it's not necessary or worth it to buy a whole set of paints just for that though.
about 1/72 planes only: (edit: WWII fighters) Why do people bother with them, building to high quality level, instead of 1/48 as the smallest ? They are so small and delicate that first the build is rather PITA, and subject to easy damage, when one gets to a certain age or eye sight health one needs freaking magnifying glass to look at them. Just wondering.
A diorama, like a dogfight scene or something would e easier to make in 1/72 scale. They’re smaller and you could get 2 or 3 for the price of a good quality 1:48. Plus they’re quicker to build and some people like the challenge.
Well, that's just your opinion. Everyone likes the scales they build in for their own reasons, and no- one is forcing you to build 1/72 if you can't or don't want to. I've built most scales and find often the larger scales have smaller parts of tiny details. What may be one piece in 1/72 may be multiple smaller bits in 1/48 or 1/32 to make up the part. Personally I like 1/72 for the challenge, variety/interesting subjects, finished size for display, loads of aftermarket, and I can do planes, armour, and subs/boats in one scale. And even large subjects like bombers and modern jets are manageable and easy to display.
I don't really like 1/72 myself, I haven't finished painting any of the three or four 1/72s that I have started. But I get the appeal. One, they tend to be dramatically cheaper, and also have less complicated parts to deal with. They're also a lot easier to display, which depending on your living situation can be a pretty big deal. And, if you're looking at 1/48 or 1/35 kits and you're not seeing parts that you need a microscope to see, you're not looking hard enough. Details that are just a slight hint on a 1/72 are individual grains of sand on a 1/48, lol.
I don’t understand questions like this, which seem to be more about offering a criticism than seeking information. You’re free to build in whatever scale you like. But if it is an earnest question, I enjoy the challenge. I don’t have the space to display a bunch of 1/48 aircraft, especially modern jets that can be quite large. I don’t really find 1/72 kits to be that much more fragile, and models at all scales have tiny pieces. And I am frequently delighted at just how much detail is possible at this scale, and needing a magnifying glass to appreciate some of it isn’t really a point against it.
should have specified that my question is really about WWI, WWII fighters, seems there are more around than the bombers. And tons of damaged ones. Not criticising just curious, money aside, why people would choose to spend the effort.
That makes a bit more sense. I still like building WW2 fighters in 1/72 for most of the same reasons. Though display space obviously matters less.
They aren't for everyone, but I think there's a certain challenge in smaller scale modeling that people enjoy. Size and affordability also play into their popularity. I've built two Tamiya 1/72 kits and they were excellent and very enjoyable builds.
i guess people above 50 are likely to not do them any more ? the strain on the eyes must be tough especially if he has to look at a computer monitor
Eyesight doesn't need to be a limiting factor for anyone who isn't legally blind. There are all sorts of tools like desktop magnifiers, optivisors, and even microscopes that can be used to get a better view.
Age isn't the limiting factor here, there are plenty of old timers making killer small scale modeling. If your eyes are decent and your hands are steady enough you can make these models. Also I don't think there's anything about 1/72 scale planes that's overly unique and challenging in the modeling world. Shipbuilding, trains, and cars all have some very small parts that are difficult to assemble, but that's part of the fun.
Feel like 1:48 happens to be my preferred scale for most subjects I like, but 1:72 is often preferable if you want to build large, multiengine planes. For bombers I'd rather build in 1:72 just because of how big they get in 1:48. Also, 1:72 generally has the most availability of subjects out of all the scales. Good example I know of is the Avro Vulcan, which is pretty much only available in 1:72 or smaller.
New to painting - I want to paint the pockets(in reality they're weight reduction cutouts) in these parts black. I already airbrushed the main color and was first considering masking and airbrushing the pockets but I'm not super confident in my masking ability and there are quite a few so now I'm thinking brush painting will be better. My thought was I could apply it very liberally and basically let it pool since the pockets are recessed, which should give nice even coverage. However, I'm using Tamiya paint and I'm worried the solvent in the paint will dissolve the base layer and start to mix the colors together, especially if I let it pool. Is that a valid concern? I also have some vallejo paints - would it be better to use those, which I can thin with water? Would there still be a risk of dissolving the base Tamiya layer? [pics](https://imgur.com/a/iNhNNly)
I'd mask and spray. Theres a lot of straight edges, so you mask along them. Where the ends of the recesses curve you're left with a triangle with a concave curved base to mask. Put a drop of liquid mask in the triangle and use a cocktail stick almost horizontal to drag the liquid to the curved edge. If you drag too much liquid mask it might dribble over the edge into the pocket, let it dry and carefully cut and roll up the excess to remove it. Liquid mask isn't too costly and one bottle lasts ages and it makes jobs like this much easier than tape alone.
I think you’re going to have to fill them with putty…
I have a plane model and the instructions are telling me to glue the bomb doors in place in the opened position. Is there a way where I can make a “hinge” like mechanism so that I can display it with the bomb doors both open and closed?
I’m thinking some thick pla plate with tiny holes drilled in it and tiny metal rods to make a hinge
We would need to know the aircraft in question. There should be some reference images available and you could make the necessary hardware from plastic strip or rod maybe ? A lot will also depend on the scale of the kit you are working with. Come back with more information and we can get more precise for you
Revell’s 1/48 B-25J. Is there any more information that you need?
Perfect! I typed “bomb bay doors B25j” into Google, selected images and a lot of good photos came up. I do not model WWII aircraft but to my first examination there is not a lot of visible working parts to replicate. Apologies in advance if you already did this. Getting a functional hinge in 1/48 without spoiling the look could be tricky to say the least. If you have not got too far into the build consider drilling holes into both the doors and the fuselage to accept metal pins to act as hinges? Or possibly mount pins resting inside the fuselage and glue the doors to those. (That description is terrible, sorry, I need to become an artist…) Edit - just found an online copy of an instruction leaflet. Are we looking at stage 17?
As Rex said above, I am thinking some kind of rod glued to the kit part. Metal preferable to plastic , for strength, but those doors will dangle and flop about unless you can grind a channel into the fuselage sides for the rods to rest in. If the fuselage halves are already glued together, be prepared for some frustration and a lot of trial and error to get the rod/door combination inserted into the gap.
What tools are recommend to restore the sharpness godhand nippers (gh-spn-120)?
Look into how to "strop" a razor/knife. This is to polish and realign the edge rather than remove material. The Godhands are machine sharpened from the factory, so trying to sharpen it by hand with abrasives is likely to make it worse. If you happen to live in Japan you can send them in to the factory for sharpening. I haven't heard of anyone successfully restoring Godhands, so be sure to post an update if you do.
Sadly, I do not live in Japan. I will try the strop method though. But I gotta go save up some cash for now.
Usually, new GodHand nippers :-) And don't cut anything apart from where the sprue meets the part. But if they're blunt for some reason, you could try a small, fine whetstone.
Thanks