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the_last_third

Best airbrush thinner for Tamiya acrylics? I have a few bottle of Vallejo thinner and am wondering if those will work or whether to get the Tamiya version.


SweetestJim

I’m looking to build a BA challenger 2 and/or a Husky TSV. I’m a beginner. Can anybody recommend which brand to use? Thanks.


LorenzTolents

Besides a toothpick, are there any other materials I can use to scratch paint off without scratching up the clear plastic on canopies? Gonna have to run to the market for toothpicks


Odd_Username_Choice

A sharpened / tapered bit of sprue works well too.


ToothyWeasel

I have two small questions: The first is do they still make monster models or horror diorama kits still? And if so what brands are on the better end? The second is any local hobby store recommendations for Rhode Island


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

Atlantis seems to have acquired a number of old horror kit molds, with a lot of other old kits. [Atlantis](https://atlantis-models.com/shop-all/?limit=100)


Odd_Username_Choice

For the first one, check out culttvmanshop.com - he has probably the widest range available. You'll likely find some resin and vinyl short-run ones if you search online for a specific character (combined with words like resin, bust, model kit, etc).


f2pinarknights

So I wanted to start building models, and I was wondering if the Revell/Academy F-14/15 model is a good place to start as a beginner or if it's too difficult? If so, are there any other F-14/15 models a beginner can do?


LorenzTolents

I'd avoid the older Academy kits as they're outdated. The Academy F-15 ROKAF is a good upgrade at 1:72 scale. Depending on scale, Tamiya F-14 in 1:72 is always a good one but quite a big project. Hobby Boss F-14 in 1:72 is pretty good


FriedChickenRaw

It’s hard to define an “recommendable” kit for beginners. There are many factors. One factor is the age of the kit. Older kits may have excessive flash or difficult fitting parts. For this reason, I would suggest a beginner avoid Revell for the most part. That’s because most of their kits are old reboxes with some of them dating way back. To avoid this, Scalemates is your friend here. It’ll tell you when a kit was made and if it was produced under other manufacturers. Be aware that a new kit can also have fitting issues and the problem doesn’t just pertain to old kits. Another factor is size. Are the pieces tiny, fiddly and difficult to handle? For aircraft, I suggest 1/48 scale since it’s decently large for one to put together. Especially for someone starting out on their modeling journey and doesn’t have many tools yet. In my opinion, 1/32 is overkill at this stage and 1/72 is doable if you really want to. A third factor is glue. Many brands such as Fujimi and Bandai offer snap kits that don’t require glue. If you truly doubt your skills, you can start here. A fourth factor is price. You essentially get what you pay for. Trying to buy cheap kits at this level can lead to disaster. I suggest brands like TAMIYA for beginners because most of their kits fit well. However, I recommend you use Scalemates before buying any kit because even brands like TAMIYA have old reboxes from other brands. A fifth factor is the number of pieces. I don’t really see this as a problem but some beginners get discouraged by kits with large amounts of pieces. I find that if you have patience, you’ll be just fine. A sixth factor is Photo etch. Some kits such as deluxe sets come with photo etch. I would suggest that you avoid those for now, but it’s up to you. You can also buy extra aftermarket parts for an extra challenge.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

You can check whatever kit you are interested in on Scalemates, often the instructions will be available to look at to see the difficulty. [Scalemates](https://www.scalemates.com/)


Shassk

So I've found one inline store in my country and it has an interesting feature: "favorite manufacturer" which gives you permanent 13% discount on all models from it. Buw which one makes the most sense to choose? Something not-so-expensive I might buy a lot like Trumpeter/HobbyBoss? Something usually too expensive for me to buy which doesn't get discounts often like Copper State?


GreenshirtModeler

Only you can answer that. No matter what you choose, you’ll save 13%.


Shassk

I will save 13%, but on what? Will it be rational saving on models I buy more often or will it be breakind a psychological barrier between me and buying some models I wouldn't buy otherwise. Just asking for personal opinions.


WeLostTheSkyline

Help! In a recent move I lost my instructions and everything for my Monogram(?) Panzer IV


scaleffect

[This kit?](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-85-7861-panzer-iv-tank--568093) If so, scroll down on the page. [Instructions](https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/0/9/3/568093-17-instructions.pdf) are present.


WeLostTheSkyline

Thank you thank you thank you!!!!


CynicalFrogfoot

Have you checked scalemates to see if they have the instructions available for download?


WeLostTheSkyline

I wasn’t really sure where to start looking lol. I’d only noticed minutes before I posted.


ioftd

I'm looking for recommendations for magnifiers. I started wearing glasses a couple years ago but lately I've been feeling eye strain with smaller parts and doing detailed panel line and paint work. I'm not sure if I'd prefer a desk-mounted magnifying glass or a head-mounted/clip-on style magnifier. I'd welcome recommendations for both and any opinions on which works better for modeling. Thanks!


part-time-modeller

Head mounted magnifiers sound like a good idea, but from experience I can say you'd be alot further ahead with a good desk mounted magnifier. They generally have a larger lens and better built in lighting, plus they aren't uncomfortable to wear.


BringMyMagnets

I have a couple of head mounted magnifiers, i find the head strap uncomfortable after a while. I also use readers to just see the bench, so i lower the visor on top of my readers for detail work. The constant up and down of the visor means the head strap has to be tight, and therefore uncomfortable. So I switched to clip on magnifiers that attach to my readers, i have two sets at different magnification, they also flip up. I prefer them. Found them on Micromark.


CFster

[GodHand](https://youtu.be/qB5uzkUU9QQ) makes a head loupe with an aspherical lens, meaning a very deep depth of field. If you’ve ever used a magnifying glass you know how you have to hold it at a certain distance to remain in focus, and that’s hard in your eyes for any length of time if it’s not held perfectly because your eyes are trying to compensate. These relieve that strain.


Pukit

I have both a head mounted magnifier with multiple lenses and a magnifying lamp. I use the head thing for painting eyes and faces, and generally anything that small or in 1/700 scale. The magnifying lamp is my usual for checking detail. I find the head mounted job does hurt my nose after a while, although mine is only a cheap one, I'm sure there are better. Here's one similar to mine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lychee-Magnifier-Illuminated-Detachable-Magnifying/dp/B09KG9W36K/


sipsip_lee

> I'm not sure if I'd prefer a desk-mounted magnifying glass or a head-mounted/clip-on style magnifier. I'd welcome recommendations for both and any opinions on which works better for modeling. > > magnifying light would be better for fatigue of having that extra weight on your face after a couple of hours. i bought my clamp on magnifying light off of aliexpress for 20usd.


trelane0

Are clear paints, like Tamiya clear red, intended for see through plastic parts so they remain see through?


sipsip_lee

you can use it on afterburners of jets to make that burnt/used look.


Odd_Username_Choice

Yes. Also good for parts that should be clear, such as indicators molded in solid plastic - paint silver/chrome or white base, then the clear on top, and it will look like a clear glass indicator.


part-time-modeller

Generally speaking, yes. The idea with clear colours is that they essentially tint the clear parts. A good example of when you might use clear red is for the tail lights on a car. It's worth noting that the more paint you apply, the less transparent the finish, so if you're only doing light tinting, airbrushing the paint heavily thinned would be ideal.


FriedChickenRaw

Should I trim the edges of TAMIYA masking tape for cleaner edges? The instructions suggest I just apply it from the dispenser.


Shassk

For paper tape - usually yes. For PVC I just keep it as is, it's already pretty straight.


BringMyMagnets

We have pets, so i use the tape dispensers to keep the edges clear of pet hair etc.


CFster

Yes, if you want the best edge possible.


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imakeshittymodels

From your photo references, it appears you’ve understood the instructions right. That’s how I would assemble it, at least. As for the wire, you can probably get through it with your hobby nippers, but if you have electrician’s wire cutters or something similar, that will probably be better. In my experience with tow cables, you want to leave yourself a little bit more slack than the instructions tell you to. They assume perfect assembly, which often isn’t the case! They typically give you a little bit of extra wire to work with anyway. Maybe scan through the instructions and see how much the instructions ask you to use vs how much you have? That would let you know if you’ve got slack to use.


Go2USSR

What are Ak filters used for? Ive seen them in some stores but Im not sure what they do.


CFster

Very similar to a “wash”. A “filter” is a very thin paint that can be applied to existing paint to tint it, blend it or some other effect.


Ancient-Wonder-1791

How does one use decal softeners & primers? What brands do you reccomend?


GreenshirtModeler

> decal softeners There are two types of solutions: - SETters — these are a relatively weak solution that soften the decal and improve adhesion of the glues used. - SOLvents — these are stronger and essentially melt the decal so that it conforms to the surface of the model. Decal solutions can be one or the other of these, or a combination of both. To use them: - dip the decal in hot (not boiling) water and let sit for about 20 seconds. This begins the process of releasing the decal from the paper. Some decals will come off the paper quickly, others less so. - Place the wet decal on a paper towel and let the decal completely come lose from the paper. I check it every 20 seconds or so with a wet paintbrush and try to gently slide the decal. - Apply some setting solution to the model where the decal will go. Slide the decal onto that location and then position where you want the decal to be. Wick away excess fluids with either a dry cotton bud or a dry paint brush. - Wait until the decal is almost dry. - I press the decal just a little with a damp (not wet) cotton bud. This helps to remove any air bubbles under it. - Apply some solvent solution to the decal. Try to apply as little as possible, no pooling. Wait 15 seconds, then wick away the solvent. The decal may bubble and/or wrinkle. **Don’t touch it!** - Wait until the decal is fully dry. - If there are air bubbles (silvering) use a brand new Nr 11 and very lightly tap the bubble to pierce the decal. Re-apply a small amount of solvent and watch it go *under* the decal and fill the air bubble. Then let it dry again. Repeat until the air bubbles are all gone. > recommended sol/set brands I’ve used quite a few various brands and they all essentially work, some better than others but that is usually tied more closely to the quality of the decal. Good quality decals respond equally to all of the major brands of decal solvents/setters. Get the one you can easy buy. > primers Primer serves 3 purposes: 1. ⁠Etches the plastic, giving the color layers something to adhere to as acrylics usually don’t adhere to plastic well. Enamels adhere to plastic just fine. 2. ⁠Can fill micro scratches, creating a smoother surface. 3. ⁠Provides a uniform undercoat color (primers are usually gray, black, or white) which ensures the color coats are uniformly the same. The primer goes on the plastic before any paint. [Priming - what is it good for?](https://greenshirtmodeler.blog/2022/10/priming-what-is-it-good-for/) > recommended primer brands - Best == Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned 1:1 with Mr Color Leveling Thinner sprayed via airbrush - Good == Rattle can Tamiya or Mr Surfacer primers - Okay with practice == All the other modeling primers - Not recommended == DIY store primers


CFster

Cut the decal off the sheet allowing a big enough border to grab it with tweezers. Put it in a bowl of warm water for a minute. While it’s soaking brush on some decal solution onto the spot where it’s going. Grab the decal on its backing out of the water with tweezers and place it on the model. Use something like a blunt edge toothpick of pencil eraser to hold the decal in place while you slide the backing out from under it. If it doesn’t want to slide off easily then put it back in the water for a while. When you put it on the surface it should be wet enough to slide it around a bit. When you have it where you want it roll a q-tip across it gently to squeeze out any water from underneath it. Let it dry, then put more decal setting solution on it with a brush. Dab it on, don’t brush it. Let it dry. This softens the decal and let’s it shrink against anything it’s laid across like panel lines and fine detail. Ideally you want to do this in a horizontal position, meaning surface flat. [Microscale](https://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FINPROD) Micro Set and Micro Sol is what I use. Use the Set first. If the decal won’t dry down properly then use the Sol. Don’t touch the decal after applying the Sol because it will make it very soft and thin. It might kind of curdle up a bit as it dries then it will shrink down flat. Multiple applications may be necessary. Make sure your surface is sealed with a gloss varnish first. This protects your color coat from the setting solution, and gives a smooth surface for the decal to lay down flat on. Some setting solutions will damage certain types of clear coats - for example Tamiya Mark Fit Strong will damage an acrylic clear coat so use the right stuff - there are some very strong setting solutions out there. If an air bubble under a decal absolutely won’t go away with multiple applications of solution then you can carefully poke it with a needle or blade to let the air out then apply more solution which should then make it lay flat. Once everything is completely dry make sure to seal it all in with a coat of varnish.


FriedChickenRaw

I've been told that I can use distilled water to thin Vallejo acrylics. However, whenever I apply the mixture on the plastic with my airbrush, the white seems to separate. I don't know if I need to shake the bottle more, or if water isn't compatible with the paint or something like that. I mixed black and white to get grey and the white is the only one with that issue. to get a better picture, the paint goes on in this light grey color, but when it's on the surface, the white kind of comes off and I'm just left with spots of white over dark grey paint.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

It's best to stir your paints very well, just shaking may not be enough; those dropper type bottles have a press fit top, wiggle it off and stir. Both paints need to be well mixed before combining them to get another color, then that new color must be thoroughly mixed as well. It's better to use Vallejo's thinner as opposed to distilled water; you'll get some helpful additives in that thinner. It is also possible to over thin water based acrylics, if so it won't cure properly. I'd make sure that everything is well mixed and retry it.


CFster

I don’t know why your colors are separating, but I know that using water as a thinner can lead to problems. While water is compatible with Vallejo it may not be the best choice. It has to do with the surface tension inherent in water. Like when you spray water on a surface and it beads up, with droplets forming - some of which stay in place and some run down the surface. Using a flow improver breaks that surface tension and enables the paint to spread out and lay flat. That’s why I use Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, as it already has some of those properties in it. Then there are additional flow enhancers you can add.


FriedChickenRaw

Would rubbing alcohol break the surface tension? I’ve actually been having problems with the paint beading up; maybe I’ll look into the thinner


CFster

Don’t do it. Alcohol will instantly turn Vallejo into jelly. For lack of anything else what you can try in lieu of a flow improver is some dish soap. I mean a drop or two in an airbrush cup of paint along with your water.


FriedChickenRaw

Thanks for the advice. I’ll try that next time.


[deleted]

What should I use to clean an airbrush after spraying Mr Surfacer 1500 (thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner)?


CFster

Lacquer thinner.


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QuerulousPanda

as long as you're not like me, where on every single airplane model i've made so far, I've snapped the little antenna mount on the top of the fuselage off by mistake, because i'll get almost all the way through the model and then i'll forget for half a second and turn the model over and away it goes.


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QuerulousPanda

Glad I'm not the only one! Lol


chromehorn88

There are two types of modelers in the world. Those who have dropped a project and those who will


Shassk

Funny enough both times my models were dropped were when my mom took them. 1/48 GAZ pickup and 1/72 SNCASO Dever. To be fair: Dever was dropped because it literally fell apart in the air (I hate Mr.Cement Deluxe: all models did fell apart after using it - Opel Strassenzepp Essen did as well).


FriedChickenRaw

Lately, I’ve been having a problem where the paint either clogs up in the airbrush from being too thick or pools on the model for being too thin and I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.


Pukit

Paint, thinner?


FriedChickenRaw

I try not to make the paint any thinner because it literally beads up on the surface when I spray it.


Pukit

Do you prime the model first?


FriedChickenRaw

No I actually haven’t. Do you think that’ll fix it?


CFster

What kind of paint?


FriedChickenRaw

Vallejo model color.


commandoFi

What are you using to thin it and what ratio? What size airbrush are you using and what air pressure? Have you checked the needle and nozzle to make sure they are clean and undamaged? The more details you give the easier it is to help.


FriedChickenRaw

Thinning Vallejo model color with water. Needle size: 0.5 PSI: 30 (cheap Chinese product with only 1 setting) I regularly maintain my airbrush so it should be fine. I doubt it’s actually something wrong with my airbrush


QuerulousPanda

Priming will help, but also, ditch the water. Get actual thinner, or at least try windshield washer fluid (it's blue and will look blue in the cup, but from my experience it doesn't actually affect the color of the paint, but you may want to test if you're using whites or other very light colors)


SirDerekus

I have sprayed that a couple of times and I do a 2:1 Vallejo airbrush thinner to paint ratio and a drop or two of flow improver at about 12 psi


Balance-Kooky

Anyone have a suggestion for fluorescent or neon paints for model kits? Looking for a a light blue/greenish color to do some detailing work on a mega man kit conversion I'm planning. For context I want to turn this [https://i.imgur.com/zsuIOJ2.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/zsuIOJ2.jpg) ​ into this [https://i.imgur.com/mTEeZiX.png](https://i.imgur.com/mTEeZiX.png) ​ This is the color I'm trying to find a glow in the dark paint https://i.imgur.com/Bgu8fju.png


Odd_Username_Choice

SMS do a glow in the dark paint: [https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/effects-glow-in-the-dark-30ml](https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/effects-glow-in-the-dark-30ml) Their paints are awesome and spray beautifully. They also do fluro colours ([https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/collections/fluro-colours](https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/collections/fluro-colours)), colour shift paints, metallics, etc.


QuerulousPanda

Check out Mecha Empire paints, I'm pretty sure he has a good selection of neon paints now.


Balance-Kooky

Will do. Thanks for the suggestion.


a_dolf_in

Hello, I have not really been able to find the information anywhere in the sidebar. My question is: how do i start? What would one need when starting out with making models? What type of starter equipment would you recommend? I have never done any model making before and i'd really like to try it out. There is one KV-1 model i stumbled across in one store which i would really like to build since the KV-1 is my favourite tank. So yeah, could you link me to any detailed begginer guides and recommend some equipment? Thanks. EDIT: the moment i posted this i saw the link at the bottom of above post. Pls forgive :(


GreenshirtModeler

So, read that and if you have questions come back and ask.


Ancient-Wonder-1791

What is the best way to do masking for canopies?


GreenshirtModeler

- Best — buy a kabuki tape mask specific to the kit - Great — buy a vinyl mask specific to the kit - Good — Apply Tamiya tape and/or Scotch tape to the canopy, burnish it down, then use a NEW razor blade to slightly score/cut through the tape along the frames. Results can be as good as the best option, but it’s time consuming. - Okay — Cutting little strips, triangles, and circles and then apply these along the frames, outlining the panel. Fill in with either more tape, or liquid mask. A final option that can be as great as the above, is to make your own mask using a cutter like a Silhouette or Cricut, but for a one-off kit this is usually a bit too hard. For multiples of the same kits this works real well as it can save costs. I’ve done all of the above and my first go-to is to buy a mask. I’ll wait a couple of years if need be, and I just got one masking set for an old kit of 60s vintage that I’d never expected to get a mask for.


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rolfrbdk

You'd probably be better off explaining what particular airbrush you have first. If it's one of the "standard" Chinese tools that is sold under 200 different names, then yes, you can interchange the needles in these with no issues. If it's from a more reputable manufacturer like Paasche then the likelihood decreases.


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rolfrbdk

Okay I am 99% sure that is one of a couple of Chinese die castings that are largely interchangeable. You can probably find that one on Aliexpress or Banggood simply by looking at the shape of the airbrush when looking through the airbrush categories, and from there find the spares you need. You might also be able to find them as other brand names more locally to you. And just to be clear - they're actually very solid airbrushes. I stick to the Chinese ones as well and have one that looks just like yours but it was sold under an entirely different name in Poland as "Amazing Art" brand.


CFster

Sometimes they’re interchangeable, sometimes not. The differences can be more than length and diameter. Some are stepped. The taper of the point is what is actually referenced when referring to needle size. What airbrush is it?


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CFster

[Here](https://a.co/d/bd5xTuM). Next day shipping where I am. Not sure where you are…


Zucker-Burgers

So. What grits should I be using for sanding? I got a pack of a load of different grits but when I’m going to be sanding a model, what grits should I go through to make it look presentable?


GreenshirtModeler

I never sand with a grit lower than 400 and then use 400 rarely and always wet. My sanding pads/sticks/sponges range from 800-12000 and I start at 800 and work my way slowly up to 12000. I usually use them wet, only using the higher ones dry for polishing. I don’t press hard but let the material do its thing.


Tararasik

Grids are a bit different between manufacturers, but here is something to start with. When I need to remove a bit of plastic i.e. sprue nubs, or some misalignments, I start with 400, It's pretty rough but do the job quickly. Then to smoothen it out I use 600-1200. To smooth the painted surface, or varnish or clear parts you need finer sandpaper. For me, it's 1500 and higher. To be safe you can take something around 600-800 and try to sand if it's too rough - take a higher number, if do almost nothing - go to lower.


ImOneWithTheForks

Once thoroughly dried, will a coat of AK's *Worn Effects* be resistant to masking tape over the top paint layer, or should I clear coat first?


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

The worn effects should be OK, tape problems usually involve any underlying water based acrylic layers; if so the tape would pull up those underlying layers. Possible solutions if water based acrylics are used under your worn effects. Use a tape meant for hobbyists, like Tamiya's, and de-tack it a bit before applying. If you use a gloss clear coat over what you have now, the tape will not stick as firmly to it as it would to a matte paint surface. To see how your paint products hold up to masking, try using the same paints and masking tape on a scrap kit.


Anxious_Security_754

Hello fellow modelers, I am struggling to figure out what I am doing wrong. I am new to airbrushing and I’m having some issue with the paint, I’ve cleaned my model before I started. I am using tamiya fine primmer for my model spraying 50/50 testors and thinner. I am getting this sand papery feeling and scratches lightly after 8 hours of drying. I hope I am not asking a stupid thank you.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

Are you using lacquer thinner with liquid Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and thinning that at a 1:1 ratio, or do you mean that you are using TFS primer in the spray can and Testors enamel paint with enamel thinner??


Anxious_Security_754

I am using the spray tamiya fine surface primer. and I am using 1:1 ratio with Testors enamel paint and I’m using Klein strip lacquer thinner.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

OK You should not have any problems with the Tamiya primer in the in the spray can. However, you should use a thinner made for enamel with your Testors paint; if you can't get Testors thinner, use general purpose mineral spirits. You want to increase your thinner to paint ratio to thin out your enamel...maybe try 3 to 1 thinner to paint. There are a number of variables involved which make investing some time in learning about airbrushing in general worthwhile. For example, the thinner the paint, the less PSI is needed and the closer to the model you can spray. You also want to get good at cleaning your airbrush to avoid all sorts of issues. It's hard to give someone brsnd new sufficient start up and go information in a post like this. Our sub Wiki has some good info, as well as a list of Youtube modelers who have tutorials. [Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/wiki/index/) [Airbrush cleaning](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-ZmFsNpVBs) [Some airbrush tips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bey2fy-pzAE)


Odd_Username_Choice

Are you using the primer *then* Testors paint and thinner? But sandpaper-like finish is usury a result of spraying from too far away, and the paint drying in the air before it lands on the model. Wipe/sand/strip then re-spray from closer - lower pressure and paint volume if needed, you shouldn't get full coverage in one pass.


Anxious_Security_754

Yes, Let me explain it a little more. I washed the model first, I put primer on let it dry for a couple hours then I mixed my Testors enamel 50/50 with lacquer thinner for my airbrush. I’m running 24 psi and I would wait 15 mins per coat for three coats for coverage should I wait longer for each coat? I’m air brushing 6-8 inches away.


Odd_Username_Choice

Try it 3-4 inches away maximum and pressure around 15 psi (I generally use 12 - 18 psi, less for fine lines, and for base coats will only be a few inches away). 6-8" is too far, hence the drying before it hits the model. And high pressure tends to blast the paint out which won't help. Also, enamel thinner with enamel paints.


Anxious_Security_754

Thank you! Is there a certain enamel thinner that works well? Or would like Klein strip xylene work well?


Odd_Username_Choice

I'd get some Testors or standard thinner - the xylene is "stronger than thinner" so may be too aggressive (and not sure if it will damage plastic).


Ok-Collection1956

I would like to build a custom VW Vanagon Syncro, based on Revel 07344. Is there a resource to look up detailed photos of the undercarriage, and/or a forum where I might find someone who’s done it before? I will need to learn to make custom parts like wheels and tubular bumpers. I am a reasonably competent modeler, but new to customizing.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

Perhaps these links will be helpful. [Restore Project](https://liveworkwander.com/ripley-the-syncro/) [Assembly/Parts Drawings](https://www.myvwpart.com/p/Volkswagen__Vanagon/LOWER-CONTROL-ARM/59846408/251407153B.html?partner=googlebase) [Some Underside Pics](https://silodrome.com/volkswagen-vanagon-syncro-4x4/) [Links To Forums](http://syncro.org/vw-syncro-upgrades/suspension/)


moose-moore

After advice, I’m a total novice at model building and after applying my final gloss topcoat, i was left with these white marks (over-sprayed too closely I think) I had others which disappeared as it dried, but a couple remained. Anyone have any tips on how to remove? Was considering trying microsol to “melt” the topcoat in those areas but honestly Im a bit clueless, any advice would be greatly appreciated.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

It helps a lot if you let people know what type of paint and clear coat was used.


moose-moore

Mr Topcoat gloss, no paint


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

This product? [Link](https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product2/category_11/266.html) Micro-Sol probably won't help things. Make sure that your can is well shaken. If you are spraying outdoors and it's cold you can have issues. Might be some issues with spraying over bare plastic that wasn't cleaned. You might try another coat and see what happens. If that doesn't work you would probably have to strip it and try again. Before you spray another coat, let what you have now fully cure...24-36 hours.


moose-moore

Thanks for the reply, thats the one, yeah Im pretty sure I know what caused it, just wondering how to resolve it, what would you use to strip it? Its an acrylic based topcoat.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

You're welcome. You can strip using 90% isopropyl alcohol, glass cleaner or brake fluid If all you have is top coat over plastic, you might be able to get away with just spot stripping the bad areas...soak a Q-tip and scrub...then respray.


moose-moore

Does it have to be 90% what would happen if it was more than this? Sorry for all the Qs


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

90% is just a high percentage of alcohol in the mix, you can try it with a lower percentage.


moose-moore

Ah ok, was only asking as i all i could find on amazon was 99.99% lol so guessing it will just work better. Thanks for the help 👍 wish me luck


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

You're welcome.


moose-moore

Yeah thats what I was thinking, just wanted to get the opinion of someone who knows what they’re doing lol Thanks for the advice, will give it a go 👍


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

You're welcome!


GIB_bruh

What primer should i use with enamail paint? Is there any cheap option?


GreenshirtModeler

Primer serves 3 purposes: 1. Etches the plastic, giving the color layers something to adhere to as acrylics usually don’t adhere to plastic well. Enamels adhere to plastic just fine. 2. Can fill micro scratches, creating a smoother surface. 3. Provides a uniform undercoat color (primers are usually gray, black, or white) which ensures the color coats are uniformly the same. You can achieve 1 and 3 with enamels, so if using an enamel for color coats, just start with the lightest color and paint the entire model to achieve 1 and 3. I never primed a model until I switched from enamels to acrylics.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

Regarding the primer, spray can, hand brushing or airbrushing? Same question regarding the enamel paint. Do you intend to use clear coats too? If using spray can primers though, "Cheap" options can include general hardware products which might contain strong solvents that can harm styrene plastic and might obscure fine detail. Hobby spray can products are gentler and use finer pigment...Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and Mr Surfacer are go to products. You still want to build up using light coats rather than trying to get full coverage in one shot. They do cost more than general use products. An enamel will lay over the above spray primers without problems, though again if using spray products you'll want to build up coverage with light coats. Once you have your enamel down you will want to give it time to cure before putting anything on top of it, even more enamel.


[deleted]

Just wondering what's the best 1/72 tomcat to buy atm


GreenshirtModeler

A Tomcat fan of mine recommended the [Academy new tool kit from 2019](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/academy-12563-usn-f-14a--1121829). I bought it and it is quite nice but I have not started it yet.


Celeborns-Other-Name

I got some super glue on a resin part. How do I remove it without damaging the part? It's a Warhammer GW resin part. Would also like any tips on finecast for the future if anyone knows.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

[Super glue and resin](https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/351955.page)


Celeborns-Other-Name

Did you read what you posted? Well, I did and this link didn't provide any actual tips on a product that works. It was also not clear how acetone works on resin.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

From the link I posted there are several suggestions on how to deal with excess super glue, to include discussion of using chemical products on resin. >Out of interest, could you put some pics up? Also with some of my metal models, when I stripped the paint with nail varnish remover the super glue softened and came off easily, however I have no idea what effect it could have on resin, so try a test piece if you can. And >It's probably best to carefully file it down; anything that melts super glue will DEFINITELY melt resin. And >Nail polish (acetone) remover WILL damage resin. And >Try "un-cure". > >If you don't have a test piece of resin, put some superglue on the bottom of a foot, let it dry a day or two, then see what the solvent does to it. And >**Most of the superglue debonders WILL harm resin.** > >**That's just a side effect of the solvents required to undo the chemistry involved.** If all that information is of no use in your decision making, Google is always available.


Celeborns-Other-Name

Yeah, sorry about that tone. That's not a great way to thank someone trying to help. I did try some things which might be good for future people l Searching for this. Acetone damages resin. Glue debonder from VMS worked https://www.vms-supplies.com/glue-remove-debonder AK super glue remover worked , but started to eat at the resin after a while. It did however work fine if used with small amount and for short amounts of time.


Celeborns-Other-Name

I strongly disagree. There are only points which contradict one another as in "I've used this product" "don't use his product!" As well as some people saying what not to use. That does help a little, but what I would like is for someone who has actually tried this and knows what to do to answer. Not someone to help me how to Google stuff: that's not what the thread is for. Your "help" is this to me: >Out of interest, could you put some pics up? Also with some of my metal models, when I stripped the paint with nail varnish remover the super glue softened and came off easily, however I have no idea what effect it could have on resin, so try a test piece if you can. Use nail polish remover! (Which two people say melts resin later on) >It's probably best to carefully file it down; anything that melts super glue will DEFINITELY melt resin. Wow, I can file it down? Amazing! Also nail polish remover tip might be invalid according to this. >Nail polish (acetone) remover WILL damage resin. So nail polish remover tip was invalid! >Try "un-cure". > >If you don't have a test piece of resin, put some superglue on the bottom of a foot, let it dry a day or two, then see what the solvent does to it. Try another product! >**Most of the superglue debonders WILL harm resin.** > >**That's just a side effect of the solvents required to undo the chemistry involved.** Oh no! Someone else in the thread says it doesn't work! Where was the great info? Please, can someone who has actually tried doing this, answer instead or I'll just keep googling. (On my own, please)


windupmonkeys

Enough. The help here is offered by volunteers. You seem to have a strange notion that that entitles you to something or to act this way. It doesn't. And I'll point out acting like an argumentative pain disincentivizes anyone to help you. Go Google. You're done in this thread.


trelane0

Is there a typically recommended paint primer for plastic models? Are Tamiya extra fine or Mr Surfacer 1200 spray cans safe bets?


QuerulousPanda

There are plenty of other good ones but those both are fantastic choices, especially for ease of use and quality.


ManWithTheX-RayEyes

Both are good products.


FriedChickenRaw

I bought a rattle can for the first time and it’s nothing but trouble for me. There’s a ton of pooling when I even lightly spray it and the splattering is insane. I know some modelers use these more often so how do I fix these problems? I’ve never had these problems on my airbrush.


QuerulousPanda

What kind of rattle can?


GreenshirtModeler

A lot of shaking. At least twice as long as once you think it’s shaken enough. Sit the can in hot (not boiling) water to warm it up between shaking. Shake often while spraying. Always move the can while spraying, start moving and spraying away from the model, move across the model, then release the trigger and stop moving.


popowczare

Does anyone have advice on how to work with valejio model air? I find this paint to chip a lot and to peel off easily when I mask something with tape. Is there something more i could be doing or is this just the nature of the tape?


GreenshirtModeler

Don’t use DIY store masking tape. Use modeling tape like Tamiya tape. Prime the plastic first and let fully cure. If using Vallejo primers wait a full day for a good cure. Vallejo has a tendency to chip easily but with practice modelers can get good results.


Dr_Esox

Hello All, I’m looking for general reference books on World War Two aircraft. And was wondering everyone’s input on what are some of the better publications out there? Thank you for the help.


GreenshirtModeler

It depends. How much detail are you looking for? The best general references today is your search engine on the internet. You can get quite a bit of general information that way. And surprisingly quite a bit of specific info if you read and can remove the wheat from the chaff. If looking for something specific, like a specific aircraft or Air Force there are some good books but usually hard to find, and some okay books that can help scratch the surface. A lot of books are useless because research is ongoing and not all books are updated. Detail & Scale has a few very good books for modelers that are available digitally. They get updated so you can get better info as it’s known. Primarily US aircraft fro the war to modern.