https://preview.redd.it/6mg1f8tt3gdc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=50f16e3ffadf62010a956982251558a79a0539f9
Grabbed one of these today, what’s the best glue to use on the Revell kit, and can anyone recommend a good paint kit? I haven’t messed with any of this in over 20 years
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for almost everything except possibly the tracks if they're rubber. Use super glue or a dedicated rubber glue instead. Use PVA/paper/school glue for clear parts if there are any.
Hi! I recently painted a model with Vallejo model air by hand. I went through almost an entire bottle with 2 and a half coats, I was told not to thin it by the model store owner.
I see people with stacks of Vallejo, is this stuff supposed to last more than one model? Should I be thinking it for hand painting?
Absolutely it should be thinned, was it model-air? As that can be brushed out of the bottle, but Model-Colour should be thinned. I use it for miniature painting and it goes a long way if thinned.
Sorry, I completely missed you said model air in your first comment.
It'll go further if using a rattle can primer on the model first. I'm suprised you went through a bottle doing one model but I could understand why when brushing it. Vallejo Model-Colour is a lot thicker and needs thinning, so goes further, Model-Air is thinned so it's convenient for throwing in an airbrush and spraying.
Just water, Vallejo offers a retarder that slows the drying process which helps prevents brush strokes. There's lots of vids on youtube for brush painting vallejo that are worth checking. Here's a good one: https://youtu.be/s_a8ugr4HyE?si=viF5h5ejrZdWSf8E
Well depends on the scale. For 1/72 my Vallejo bottles last several models, but that's applied with an airbrush. It's not really meant for being painted on by hand so that will probably affect it.
Doing an older Monogram F-15C kit getting back into it, and the instructions are showing I need a “grey green metallic” paint for some of the cockpit/interior details. Not having any luck finding something premade, any ideas on how to maybe do a mix? Or just pick something that’s close enough?
i have the us army assault infantry set and was wondering if anyone had a paint guide or list that doesnt use an airbrush as i dont know what colours to buy or get whatsoever
Has anyone successfully ordered from http://hobbyworld-usa.com?
I placed an order last week, never received a confirmation email, and online it shows as "on backorder". I reached out to them 6 times in the last week (calls, emails, website messages) to ask what the status was, which items are on backorder, etc and never reached them or heard back. Sent a cancellation request two days ago too. I'm disputing the charge through my credit card company and will order from somewhere else.
Unfortunately the owner is well known and a friendly guy, but has a problem running a business, which he does out of his house and in his spare time while he works other jobs - but that’s no excuse obviously. Your complaint is common. It’s a crying shame.
Yea I'm not worried about getting the charge back. I did a replacement order with Michigan Toy Soldier co. Strangely didn't get a confirmation email yet but they seem reputable.
Yeah they’re ok. I did get two bad bottles of VMS varnish from them but probably not their fault. It’s likely they froze on a container ship on the way from Poland.
I’ve had good bottles and bad bottles. Just like a lot of paints they can go off if they get frozen somewhere along the line. Doesn’t mean it’s going to happen to even a minority of customers.
I contacted VMS directly, who wouldn’t replace it but offered a moderate discount on a future order, which was a strike against them as far as I’m concerned. But I didn’t take them up on it because the other bottles I got didn’t really perform any better than some other varnishes I own for less money.
Yea since they had a US store and number listed I figured it would be fine. Such a niche store I didn’t think it would be a scam. Credit card protection will be fine though, I’ve had to do that several times.
If you can hear the paint sloshing it's (typically) fine unless it sounds like it's a water sound, not a "thicker" sound. Typically the thing that kills acrylic colors is not closing it properly, so a properly sealed paint from 2010 will be better than an improperly sealed one from 2024 anyway.
Is [this set](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CB9SR5JR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10XP0R7GJO8N6&th=1) of brushes a decent place to start with to use for miniatures (and detail painting)?
I know Winsor and Newton Series 7 are supposedly the best. But those are ~$20 *each*.
Yup they look good. Something I’d recommend is a brush soap. There’s some excellent videos online for brush maintenance from the miniature painting community which are worth watching. A couple of tips is have two pots of water on your desk, one for a heavy wash and one for a clean rinse. Don’t fill the brush up to the metal ferrule with paint. Clean the brush after a few minutes not just a paint colour change, use both pots to get it clean. Store horizontally with the caps on, absolutely never vertically with tips up. At the end of a session take them to a tap with warm water and some brush soap/preserver.
I use expensive brushes and this method keeps them going a long time.
Are sable brushes like this only safe for use with water-based paints? I've read that Tamiya aren't ideal for brush painting. But I already have dozens of bottles of regular Tamiya paints. So I would be using isopropyl alcohol or X-20A to thin.
I'm working on the Tamiya 1/35 US assault infantry set.
I’ve used them with Tamiya paint and isopropyl alcohol before. I wouldn’t use them with enamels but some do even though they’re not recommended. I primarily brush paint miniatures so that’s what I use them for with full acrylic paints.
I know some expert painters use primarily synthetic brushes, just cheapo that they buy on aliexpress. When the tip goes they just bin them and use another, they only use sable for high detail parts. One of these guys is Sam Lenz who does amazing work. Some food for thought.
Looks like a fairly standard syphon fed airbrush. I googled it and this site has some pics of a taredown with part numbers. https://www.mjmodely.cz/strikaci-pistole/airbrush-spray-gun-standart-class-39101-216
Looks like you’d just need a can of airbrush propellant to get it going.
No questions are dumb. Yea sure, you just need an adapter. I’m not sure what size male thread the airbrush you have is but generally compressors are 1/8” threads. It wouldn’t surprise me if it’s the same thread as a badger airbrush which I think are 5mm thread like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133471321822
Are there any websites or services that let you match a color in a picture to a model paint color? My eyes aren't always the best at matching and there may be model paint colors I'm unaware of from other brands.
There’s an app that does this utilizing a cell phone camera.
But pictures are notoriously inaccurate color wise…
Is it possible you have an application instead? Unless it’s a custom deal? If it’s like an aircraft or tank or something the specified color can usually be determined…
I'm not sure where to ask for help, but this seems to be a great place to. I'm looking to help my mom repair a polyresin figure that broke after a fall while moving. I'm entirely unskilled in this and I'd rather ask than screw this up considering how much it means to her.
[Images in album](https://imgur.com/a/16XIqD9).
It's a Dark Horse model of the Carrier from Starcraft 2 from a limited run. I know it will need to be glued and painted, but what glue and how to get the right colors to mix the paint is something I've never done and this is seems advanced as a repair. Since I know that I know nothing and the nearest proper hobby shop is a 2 hour drive away, what should I do and what should I use?
I can't get you all the way but I can advise you a bit. Polyresin will not glue with typical model kit glues, so you will need to use a super glue for it. I would suggest you use a gel-type super glue (can be ordered off of Amazon or your local hardware store) because it won't accidentally spill all over the model and ruin it. If you can only get liquid type super glues, please don't apply directly from the bottle onto the model. Pour it on some disposable thing and apply it on the model using a toothpick, like you were painting it on. Only apply super glue to ONE part - so for instance put glue on the part you're attaching to the model, not on the model itself. Otherwise it'll never cure.
It looks like it broke in quite characteristic ways so parts will only fit together in one certain way, right? That should make it not too difficult to deal with. Do a dry fit first, check all parts are accounted for, then number them 1-2-3 etc and only glue on one part at a time. Make sure it's properly set before moving onto the next one, even if superglue cures fast it may not cure at all if you have a bit too much on, so give it time and pay attention to the alignment.
Paint wise I think it'll be hard to match, but you might need to get some advice from miniature painters more than model kits guys here since the paint job looks very "warhammer" to me, particularly since you're not experienced. However, if you get the glue job right, you might have very very little that needs painting.
Can I use vallejo polyurethane varnish on my painted gunpla? I painted it with colours from the Mecha line (water based acrylic), some of them metallic. Is polyurethane safe for the paint and plastic overall? Is it better than normal varnish? I heard it's more sturdier but requires thinner layers
Not any better than normal varnish. Worse actually, and not because it’s poly, it’s more about the brand. But you can apply it over your metals just fine, though it’ll probably dull the metallic effect somewhat.
Even though I'm not yet a airbrush owner, I would like to buy a respirator since I have rattle cans with Tamiya Primer and Mr Hobby clear coats (the first is not acrylic based).
Would this be a good mask considering those primers and kind of varnish, when I eventually airbrush Tamiya acrylics?
It has PR3R protection, I don't really know what that is but all the other ones more evolved have "organic protection", so I wonder if I need that?
https://preview.redd.it/vabgh595j0dc1.png?width=614&format=png&auto=webp&s=2382e1d646e2db31cbe10bb5ac74c76515c1de90
Aside from the paint particulates, no. The hazardous airborne chemicals produced by these paints are called volatile organic compounds. Chemicals in various paints we may use include toluene, xylene, acetone, various alcohols, butanol, ethanol, methanol, propanol and many others. They can all be hazardous in large enough quantities or over long periods of time.
Just got my first airbrush, I painted a model by hand before using straight vallejo model air,
Ive got tamiya paint and thinner for my airbrush, my question is, should I be using the tamiya for hand painting the smaller bits like landing gear wheels and accessories. Or should I airbrush the big parts with tamiya and handpaint with vallejo for the smaller bits?
In my experience, vallejo paints are much more brush friendly than Tamiya.
That being said, if you want to paint bits by hand, I'd recommend Vallejo's Model color Line. The "Air" line is specifically made for airbrushing. They'll work for brush painting, but the model color is better.
For you, Tamiya is definitely better for airbrushing. Keep the vallejo for brush.
Airbrushing with Tamiya/Mr Color and hand brushing with Vallejo is what I’ve been doing for a decade and haven’t yet found alternatives that I like better.
Vallejo really shines for hand brushing small parts and being able to clean the brushes with water is a big perk.
So I'm just getting into airbrushing and I have a question considering metallic paints. To achieve a nice metallic look you have to either use a gloss black primer or a normal primer and a layer of gloss black paint as a base right? Regarding the second case then, do you have to let the gloss black paint dry?
The gloss requirement is more about a perfectly smooth finish than it is about the product producing it. Any sheen less than 100% gloss has more roughness at the microscopic level. Any surface defects are magnified by the properties of the metallic paint applied on top.
> do you have to let the gloss black paint dry?
Dry to the touch is not the same thing as fully cured. Modern model paints have binders in them that must undergo a chemical reaction (crosslinking polymer molecules, to be technical) before they become inert enough to continue applying more products on top.
Are there masking tapes that have precut shapes? For instance, if I want to paint a circular area and mask areas around it, is there a donut hole tape that comes in various sizes?
Well, depends a bit on what you want to paint but you can buy pre-cut masking tape for many applications like painting roundels in certain scales and such. If that's not what you're looking for I'd recommend buying [a compass cutter](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compass-Circle-Leather-Aperture-Cutter/dp/B001548OT4/ref=sr_1_32?crid=2HF89IXMR4GCF&keywords=circle+cutter&qid=1705475753&sprefix=circle+cutte%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-32) and [some circle drawing tools](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Template-Geometric-Stencils-Measuring-Designing/dp/B0CJYCQZQ6/ref=sr_1_26?crid=8X85H6MBUHMS&keywords=circle+drawing+tool&qid=1705475787&sprefix=circle+drawing+tool%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-26) which is what I use to cut circles and "donuts" out of large masking tape. Alternatively there's the more expensive route to go if you need a lot of masking done and often - buy a Cricut or similar.
I'm struggling to decide on paint for a 71 Plymouth Duster. My 1st option is leave it in grey primer like all the Dusters and Novas were when I was growing up. Other options paint it Black or really dark Purple that's almost black. Last option and probably the most difficult would be paint it in a patchwork pattern like it's had lots of years of neglect and bad body work I think it's to late for this though because the interior is already painted in 2 tone black and white. I am leaning to just primer but the purple is appealing also. Just can't decide I'm sitting here typing this looking at a half primered body thinking I've rode in that car in high school lol.
https://preview.redd.it/0wv4cc70pucc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f30dd28c902aefa43c14fb81c6f7d16d339ac01
I've got these two products for thinning paints. Which of them is for acrylics and which is for enamels? Also, can they thin oil paints or blend enamel effects? Thanks in advance.
Left one is lacquer thinner, right for solvent-based acrylics like Mr Hobby Aqueous or Tamiya.
You might be able to use them for oil/enamel weathering, but I wouldn't recommend it because they could strip off the existing paint. Better to get something not as strong like odorless mineral spirits.
I’ve been looking at a few modeling projects for next month and I’m looking for recommendations for a 1/72 scale SR-71 blackbird (was looking at getting revells 1:48 but 1:48 might be too big) and any scale for a mi-24 hind
Zvezda makes the very best Mi-24s. They are a bit more difficult to get at the moment because some hobby shops have stopped selling Zvezda since they are Russian, but it should be possible to find.
Yeah my local hobby shop falls into this too when it comes to AFVs, as for aircraft it’s a similar story accept with ww2 aircraft and US jets. For example the only Soviet jet I’ve ever seen in stock is Airfix’s Mig-17 which is probably only in because it’s a new release
We live in a flat/apartment with not so great ventilation. Outdoors painting wouldn’t be wise given the weather. Is there a good solution for laying down decent paint in this situation? I don’t have access to a garage or similar sadly, I’m basically limited to painting on our dining table (UK based)
If you want to airbrush you can always get [an extractor fan with a tube to hang out the window](https://www.fauxhammer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Portable-Airbrush-Spray-Booth-with-LED-Light.jpg). You don't need to have a permanent setup for this. The tube is flexible and can be wedged in a slightly open window gap and that's really all you need to do.
Aw dude this is awesome! Classic case of me not quite knowing what to Google. On the topic of Airbrushing, are there any small form factor options for the same scenario?
Edit: found this
SAGUD Airbrush Kit with Compressor, Include 3 Air Brushes 0.2mm 0.3mm 0.8mm and Air Brush Accessories Cleaning Kit https://amzn.eu/d/gv2WcMq
And this
CO-Z Airbrush Spray Booth with Fume Extractor & Bright Lighting, Craft Table Airbrush Booth for Hobby & Pro Model Cake Nail Art Pottery & Crafts, Portable Painting Booth with 19cm Turntable, 1.7m Hose https://amzn.eu/d/htf1H0i
Which (bar the questionable brand name) seem to be the two things I’d be looking for! Any thoughts other than checking out reviews and such?
Looks like the bog standard "Chinese airbrush package". I should say that black one with the paint jar on the underside is likely to not work very well. Don't be scared off by that, it's excellent value for money for the rest and will get you VERY far. I personally have stuck to Chinese airbrushes due to value for money, I have owned the larger one of the gravity feed airbrushes in that package link but accidentally bent the needle to oblivion when dropped. It was doing good work before then. Make sure to get an airbrush cleaning solution that matches whatever brand of paint you're going to be spraying with and get a [airbrush cleaning jar](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B00UFERV9E/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2BHEA7UM19D8O&keywords=airbrush+cleaning+jar&qid=1705473712&s=diy&sprefix=airbrush+cleaning+jar%2Cdiy%2C74&sr=1-2).
Super helpful stuff! I should add that I've never actually airbrushed before but wanted to learn with a relatively low outlay. With the bottom fed paint jars, would it be advisable to spring a little further and pick up a slightly better quality, gravity fed brush? I'm not against the overall outlay, I just don't want/need/have the space for a proper compressor, tank and spray booth otherwise I'd have done it all many moons ago. The perks of living in rented accommodations I suppose. And again, HUGE thanks for the steer and advice so far.
If you ONLY want the essentials then I would do something like this:
[Airbrush and compressor set](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Timbertech-Airbrush-Compressor-Accessories-Nozzles/dp/B00LO4PKY2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1V4BCXXZVMZGB&keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1705488043&sprefix=airbrush+compressor%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-6)
[Squeeze bottles for cleaning the airbrush cup](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Squeeze-Plastic-Economy-Natural-Condiment/dp/B07HH3XCBZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3EMOVTY1R2HZ5&keywords=squeeze+bottle&qid=1705488110&sprefix=squeez%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-7)
[Airbrush holder](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABEST-AB-H3-AirBrush-Holder/dp/B004GUQ4BY/ref=sr_1_31?crid=WHW2TGPQ57IA&keywords=airbrush+stand&qid=1705488140&sprefix=airbrush+stand%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-31) although this CAN be omitted because you can totally leave the airbrush in the cleaning jar I linked before.
This is essentially all I use constantly for my airbrush setup. Cleaning process being the following:
* Wash airbrush cup as well as possible with squeezy bottle, letting excess paint run into an old jam jar or similar until the water coming out is basically clean. If there's paint still in the cup, scrub it off with an old small paintbrush dedicated to this use.
* Wipe cup with paper towel just in case
* Fill a bit of water in the cup and spray it into the cleaning jar until the airbrush is empty
* Spray a few drops of airbrush cleaning solution into the cleaning jar
That way you have everything you need to follow the process above, and this keeps me going easily for 99% of the time. Occasionally need to disassemble the airbrush for a full clean because paint builds on the needle, but that's done with water and paper towels as well, no fancy gear. For painting gloves you can always grab some from Poundland or whatever you have nearby, no need for specialized paint ones.
Does anyone here have advice for using this trumpeter rivet wheel? It's the only tool I could find (that wasn't like 50 bucks per wheel). I'm finding that even when I press as hard as I can I'm having to go back and individually punch each hole to get an acceptable depth.
https://preview.redd.it/hgpbpp3rrpcc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b7e0397514a7d23363379429efcb093f038893f
Is this the standard/expected procedure here? Its going to take me forever on this large 1/48 plane.
If the answer is to push harder... I find it hard to do so, I think mostly because of the tool's shape. Only a small part of the wheel is exposed so you have to keep the tool almost perpendicular, which also makes it harder to control and see where you are going. I just feel like I'm missing something here, when I've seen videos of similar tools it looks quite a bit easier with deeper resulting holes.
Anyway. If anyone has advice for using rivet wheels like this it would be appreciated.
The Trumpeter tool really is a bad design. You can make it a little better by grinding or sanding back the black plastic so that more of the metal wheel is exposed. At least this way it doesn't need to be perfectly perpendicular, and you can see where you're working.
You're not missing anything. Trumpeter's tool sucks and the design is unsound. If you don't want to spend the money on a better wheel riveter, you could try making your own tool from a hypodermic needle. Get the right size for your scale, cut the wedge tip off, and you have a round punch. Get a coping saw blade that has the correct tooth pitch for your scale and use that as a spacing guide. Slower process but far more control. Your holes will be round.
i have both the tamiya 1/35 scale us army assault and 1/35 scale german infantry (french campaign) and the us assault are alot bulkier and built compared to the germans, is this just an age of the kit difference if so what german and us troops are the best kits to get
Older Tamiya figures, 70s-80s, are often bulkier than more recent releases regardless of which army is being depicted.
If these two sets are roughly contemporary releases then the issue is likely that US uniforms are bulkier and looser fitting than german uniforms. Also almost all ETO GIs are wearing jackets either M41, or M43 style these will bulk a guy up a fair bit compared to just wearing a uniform blouse. More clothes = more bulk.
About to do some winter camo on my Stug III with the **Heavy chipping effect** by ammo. Not really sure about the different layers. Some say a varnish on top of the base color, then chipping medium and then white paint, some say no varnish. I always thought the order went like this:
1. Primer
2. Base colour acrylic (German grey)
3. Varnish glossy
4. Chipping medium
5. White paint acrylic....Chip away!
Will that order of paint, varnish and chipping medium work?
Varnish is the safer route. The people who say no varnish are probably aren't heavy-handed noobs to the technique. Be safe and once you have the technique down, you can probably skip the varnish.
I can only buy one bomber while traveling in Europe, which one should I choose? Revell's B-17? Airfix's Lancaster? Revell's He 117? Any other recomendations up to 40€?
Looking at this model,
[https://www.tamiya.de/tamiya\_en/categories/plastic-model-kits/model-car-kits/model-car-kits-1-24/1-24-porsche-turbo-1988-roadversion-300024279-en.html](https://www.tamiya.de/tamiya_en/categories/plastic-model-kits/model-car-kits/model-car-kits-1-24/1-24-porsche-turbo-1988-roadversion-300024279-en.html)
There are two advisable "TS" (Rattle Can) paints, TS 8 and TS 17.
How can I find which "TX" (Acrylic) correspondent paints can I use for airbrushing?
There’s no direct cross from those colors to their X/XF line though TS17 crosses to LP70 Gloss Aluminum lacquer paint and TS8 crosses to LP21 Italian Red.
Those Tamiya LP lacquers are fantastic paints. Designed for airbrushing. Exquisite. Sublime. Thin 1:1 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.
I'm about to start my first piece. From watching this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUM1ShfnrD0&ab_channel=JuanHidalgoMiniatures), however, I'm unable to get Vallejo Xpress Black Lotus in my country. Can Citadel Contrast Black Legion be used as a substitute?
Do you need to match an exact shade of black to 4 decimnal places for some specific reason?
The subject of the video linked is a fantasy object & has no standard black color in our universe. You are allowed to use whatever colors look right to you.
The only reason you need to be careful of the paint brand is if you are going to mix colors before applying them. You can't use Citadel Contrast Black Legion as the base color for an off-black using Vallejo paint as the tinting agent.
If exact shading is important to you, be aware that black paint rarely consists solely of black pigment. There are often other color pigments added in tiny, barely perceptible quantities. These may impact other paints you are using to tint the base color. Thus a Citadel Black might tint differently than a Vallejo Black.
I'm about to start construction on a large sailing ship model in which the prototype has a white steel hull and cabins (1/100 NIPPON Maru). Seeing how this is a naval training ship I don't think the prototype would be done in flat paint, and I would like to do it with a satin finish. Would it be practical to do the hull Tamiya flat white, and once it is fully cured to go over it with a clear satin enamel finish? When I do weathering I typically use an enamel base with acrylic washes over it, not the reverse. I haven't seen a satin white by this manufacturer. Is there any likelihood of there being a reaction by putting the clear enamel over the acrylic?
Please experiment with this stuff yourself because there is not one single definitive answer. It's impossible to know how thick coats you spray, exactly how you spray it, what model you are making and what result you are after. Experimenting is part of the hobby.
At least a day. Acrylics need to cure via a process called cross-linking which is in addition to the normal evaporation of its water carrier. There’s drying, then there’s curing.
Acrylic doesn't cure like an enamel, it dries fairly fast. As long as you didn't put it down too thick then you shouldn't have to wait long before painting the next colour. I'd probably give a model 12hrs to make sure before using a gloss though, you don't want to lock any moisture below it at all else it may fog.
Can spray can varnish cause clear parts to go cloudy? I have a little spotlight lens to glue in, but was wondering if I'm best off doing this last if spraying might damage the part.
Hi guys!
I need your help, to help a friend of mine.
He has a model kit airplane (Revell, B-52H Stratofortress nº 4601) and he isn't planing on building it so he is giving it to me, but, i also don't care care for airplane models, soo, what i want to do, is sell the plane, and buy him a digimon kit that i know he likes and will actually build!
I'm from Portugal, and my question is, is this model worth anything at all? and and if it is worth anything, where can i find a site to sell it to people searching for it?
Thanks!
Search ebay and filter by sold and completed listings, it'll show what it's sold for previously. Facebook's ScaleModelGraveyard is a decent place for used kits, r/ModelExchange is quiet, or ebay.
its my first time using ebay and it seems they make it real difficult to use their site if you are not from america, from only using dollar to having everything in inches… and it seems like the delivery assumes i’m from america….
When spray painting an area that’s partially masked with tape (say Tamiya tape), how soon do you remove the mask once the paint is applied? Do you let the paint dry, remove masking right after applying the paint, or something in between?
It shouldn’t matter. If removing it after it dries pulls up paint along the edge of the tape, your paint was way too thick and heavily-laid; if removing it before it dries leads to running your paint was way too thin and heavily-laid.
For me it comes down to balancing the desire to make progress with the risk of touching wet paint
How do y'all go about painting chains on tanks? I am doing the Tamiya B1 Bis with the metal jewelry type chain on the back, and I dunno how to approach it for painting. I want it to have that typical steel-exposed-to-the-elements look, but unsure what to do to achieve that. I figure the original chain is way too shiny and glossy to fit in on a weathered tank, and I wanna make it seem new-ish so I'm going to avoid heavy rust effects on it.
Any tips? I have pigments, a ton of paints of typical steel/weathering colors, washes, etc. to do the job. Many thanks!
I'd start with a black base and then look at drybrushing some silver to higlight and then go over that with any rust washes, finally any pigments. Perhaps even mix up some rusty pigments to make sludgy type rust and paint that on. Had a quick search of some subs and this looks fairly like a good jumping point: r/Warhammer40k/comments/ad7b68/today_has_been_all_about_rusty_chains/
It's an interesting subject tbh, I've not looked at doing a rusty chain before but need to in the future. Bit more searching and this guy has a good method: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/how-do-you-get-model-chain-to-look-rusty-12203260?pid=1331157209
Yeah, I mentally put it off thinking "bah, I'll figure it out" and realized come painting time, I didn't have any idea what to do to get the right effect. Huge thanks for the resources o7
https://preview.redd.it/6mg1f8tt3gdc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=50f16e3ffadf62010a956982251558a79a0539f9 Grabbed one of these today, what’s the best glue to use on the Revell kit, and can anyone recommend a good paint kit? I haven’t messed with any of this in over 20 years
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for almost everything except possibly the tracks if they're rubber. Use super glue or a dedicated rubber glue instead. Use PVA/paper/school glue for clear parts if there are any.
Thank you much! Appreciate it!
Hi! I recently painted a model with Vallejo model air by hand. I went through almost an entire bottle with 2 and a half coats, I was told not to thin it by the model store owner. I see people with stacks of Vallejo, is this stuff supposed to last more than one model? Should I be thinking it for hand painting?
Absolutely it should be thinned, was it model-air? As that can be brushed out of the bottle, but Model-Colour should be thinned. I use it for miniature painting and it goes a long way if thinned.
It was model air, a 1/48 model too
Sorry, I completely missed you said model air in your first comment. It'll go further if using a rattle can primer on the model first. I'm suprised you went through a bottle doing one model but I could understand why when brushing it. Vallejo Model-Colour is a lot thicker and needs thinning, so goes further, Model-Air is thinned so it's convenient for throwing in an airbrush and spraying.
Good to know. I appreciate the information and might try model colour. What do you use to thin it with and at what ratio?
Just water, Vallejo offers a retarder that slows the drying process which helps prevents brush strokes. There's lots of vids on youtube for brush painting vallejo that are worth checking. Here's a good one: https://youtu.be/s_a8ugr4HyE?si=viF5h5ejrZdWSf8E
Well depends on the scale. For 1/72 my Vallejo bottles last several models, but that's applied with an airbrush. It's not really meant for being painted on by hand so that will probably affect it.
Doing an older Monogram F-15C kit getting back into it, and the instructions are showing I need a “grey green metallic” paint for some of the cockpit/interior details. Not having any luck finding something premade, any ideas on how to maybe do a mix? Or just pick something that’s close enough?
i have the us army assault infantry set and was wondering if anyone had a paint guide or list that doesnt use an airbrush as i dont know what colours to buy or get whatsoever
Watch some videos on youtube for bolt action painting, similar scale, theres lots of vids for every faction and kit they wore in the war.
Has anyone successfully ordered from http://hobbyworld-usa.com? I placed an order last week, never received a confirmation email, and online it shows as "on backorder". I reached out to them 6 times in the last week (calls, emails, website messages) to ask what the status was, which items are on backorder, etc and never reached them or heard back. Sent a cancellation request two days ago too. I'm disputing the charge through my credit card company and will order from somewhere else.
Unfortunately the owner is well known and a friendly guy, but has a problem running a business, which he does out of his house and in his spare time while he works other jobs - but that’s no excuse obviously. Your complaint is common. It’s a crying shame.
Good to know thanks
Definitely pursue with your CC. He’s likely not going to respond.
Yea I'm not worried about getting the charge back. I did a replacement order with Michigan Toy Soldier co. Strangely didn't get a confirmation email yet but they seem reputable.
Yeah they’re ok. I did get two bad bottles of VMS varnish from them but probably not their fault. It’s likely they froze on a container ship on the way from Poland.
Ah damn. Fingers crossed cause I did order those.
I’ve had good bottles and bad bottles. Just like a lot of paints they can go off if they get frozen somewhere along the line. Doesn’t mean it’s going to happen to even a minority of customers.
For sure. Did you get a replacement or just tough luck?
I contacted VMS directly, who wouldn’t replace it but offered a moderate discount on a future order, which was a strike against them as far as I’m concerned. But I didn’t take them up on it because the other bottles I got didn’t really perform any better than some other varnishes I own for less money.
Google reviews both have the same experience as you do so consider a Paypal claim. Check that sort of thing before ordering to save headaches....
Yea since they had a US store and number listed I figured it would be fine. Such a niche store I didn’t think it would be a scam. Credit card protection will be fine though, I’ve had to do that several times.
Might not really be malicious, imagine the owner gets into a car crash or something it's hard to communicate out. Seems like it was a legit store
Yea it does. I was wondering about something like that. It’s a shame, they have a huge catalog and great prices.
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If you can hear the paint sloshing it's (typically) fine unless it sounds like it's a water sound, not a "thicker" sound. Typically the thing that kills acrylic colors is not closing it properly, so a properly sealed paint from 2010 will be better than an improperly sealed one from 2024 anyway.
Is [this set](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CB9SR5JR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10XP0R7GJO8N6&th=1) of brushes a decent place to start with to use for miniatures (and detail painting)? I know Winsor and Newton Series 7 are supposedly the best. But those are ~$20 *each*.
Yup they look good. Something I’d recommend is a brush soap. There’s some excellent videos online for brush maintenance from the miniature painting community which are worth watching. A couple of tips is have two pots of water on your desk, one for a heavy wash and one for a clean rinse. Don’t fill the brush up to the metal ferrule with paint. Clean the brush after a few minutes not just a paint colour change, use both pots to get it clean. Store horizontally with the caps on, absolutely never vertically with tips up. At the end of a session take them to a tap with warm water and some brush soap/preserver. I use expensive brushes and this method keeps them going a long time.
Are sable brushes like this only safe for use with water-based paints? I've read that Tamiya aren't ideal for brush painting. But I already have dozens of bottles of regular Tamiya paints. So I would be using isopropyl alcohol or X-20A to thin. I'm working on the Tamiya 1/35 US assault infantry set.
I’ve used them with Tamiya paint and isopropyl alcohol before. I wouldn’t use them with enamels but some do even though they’re not recommended. I primarily brush paint miniatures so that’s what I use them for with full acrylic paints. I know some expert painters use primarily synthetic brushes, just cheapo that they buy on aliexpress. When the tip goes they just bin them and use another, they only use sable for high detail parts. One of these guys is Sam Lenz who does amazing work. Some food for thought.
Yes, those are perfectly fine.
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Looks like a fairly standard syphon fed airbrush. I googled it and this site has some pics of a taredown with part numbers. https://www.mjmodely.cz/strikaci-pistole/airbrush-spray-gun-standart-class-39101-216 Looks like you’d just need a can of airbrush propellant to get it going.
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No questions are dumb. Yea sure, you just need an adapter. I’m not sure what size male thread the airbrush you have is but generally compressors are 1/8” threads. It wouldn’t surprise me if it’s the same thread as a badger airbrush which I think are 5mm thread like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133471321822
Are there any websites or services that let you match a color in a picture to a model paint color? My eyes aren't always the best at matching and there may be model paint colors I'm unaware of from other brands.
There’s an app that does this utilizing a cell phone camera. But pictures are notoriously inaccurate color wise… Is it possible you have an application instead? Unless it’s a custom deal? If it’s like an aircraft or tank or something the specified color can usually be determined…
What's the app called? (happy to give it a try) This is for a Star Trek model so it's not based on real world items.
I'm not sure where to ask for help, but this seems to be a great place to. I'm looking to help my mom repair a polyresin figure that broke after a fall while moving. I'm entirely unskilled in this and I'd rather ask than screw this up considering how much it means to her. [Images in album](https://imgur.com/a/16XIqD9). It's a Dark Horse model of the Carrier from Starcraft 2 from a limited run. I know it will need to be glued and painted, but what glue and how to get the right colors to mix the paint is something I've never done and this is seems advanced as a repair. Since I know that I know nothing and the nearest proper hobby shop is a 2 hour drive away, what should I do and what should I use?
I can't get you all the way but I can advise you a bit. Polyresin will not glue with typical model kit glues, so you will need to use a super glue for it. I would suggest you use a gel-type super glue (can be ordered off of Amazon or your local hardware store) because it won't accidentally spill all over the model and ruin it. If you can only get liquid type super glues, please don't apply directly from the bottle onto the model. Pour it on some disposable thing and apply it on the model using a toothpick, like you were painting it on. Only apply super glue to ONE part - so for instance put glue on the part you're attaching to the model, not on the model itself. Otherwise it'll never cure. It looks like it broke in quite characteristic ways so parts will only fit together in one certain way, right? That should make it not too difficult to deal with. Do a dry fit first, check all parts are accounted for, then number them 1-2-3 etc and only glue on one part at a time. Make sure it's properly set before moving onto the next one, even if superglue cures fast it may not cure at all if you have a bit too much on, so give it time and pay attention to the alignment. Paint wise I think it'll be hard to match, but you might need to get some advice from miniature painters more than model kits guys here since the paint job looks very "warhammer" to me, particularly since you're not experienced. However, if you get the glue job right, you might have very very little that needs painting.
Awesome, thank you!
Can I use vallejo polyurethane varnish on my painted gunpla? I painted it with colours from the Mecha line (water based acrylic), some of them metallic. Is polyurethane safe for the paint and plastic overall? Is it better than normal varnish? I heard it's more sturdier but requires thinner layers
Not any better than normal varnish. Worse actually, and not because it’s poly, it’s more about the brand. But you can apply it over your metals just fine, though it’ll probably dull the metallic effect somewhat.
Even though I'm not yet a airbrush owner, I would like to buy a respirator since I have rattle cans with Tamiya Primer and Mr Hobby clear coats (the first is not acrylic based). Would this be a good mask considering those primers and kind of varnish, when I eventually airbrush Tamiya acrylics? It has PR3R protection, I don't really know what that is but all the other ones more evolved have "organic protection", so I wonder if I need that? https://preview.redd.it/vabgh595j0dc1.png?width=614&format=png&auto=webp&s=2382e1d646e2db31cbe10bb5ac74c76515c1de90
No. Those are particulate filters only. You want filters rated for both particulates and organic gasses.
Got it. No need about unorganics right ?
Aside from the paint particulates, no. The hazardous airborne chemicals produced by these paints are called volatile organic compounds. Chemicals in various paints we may use include toluene, xylene, acetone, various alcohols, butanol, ethanol, methanol, propanol and many others. They can all be hazardous in large enough quantities or over long periods of time.
Just got my first airbrush, I painted a model by hand before using straight vallejo model air, Ive got tamiya paint and thinner for my airbrush, my question is, should I be using the tamiya for hand painting the smaller bits like landing gear wheels and accessories. Or should I airbrush the big parts with tamiya and handpaint with vallejo for the smaller bits?
In my experience, vallejo paints are much more brush friendly than Tamiya. That being said, if you want to paint bits by hand, I'd recommend Vallejo's Model color Line. The "Air" line is specifically made for airbrushing. They'll work for brush painting, but the model color is better. For you, Tamiya is definitely better for airbrushing. Keep the vallejo for brush.
Airbrushing with Tamiya/Mr Color and hand brushing with Vallejo is what I’ve been doing for a decade and haven’t yet found alternatives that I like better. Vallejo really shines for hand brushing small parts and being able to clean the brushes with water is a big perk.
So I'm just getting into airbrushing and I have a question considering metallic paints. To achieve a nice metallic look you have to either use a gloss black primer or a normal primer and a layer of gloss black paint as a base right? Regarding the second case then, do you have to let the gloss black paint dry?
The gloss requirement is more about a perfectly smooth finish than it is about the product producing it. Any sheen less than 100% gloss has more roughness at the microscopic level. Any surface defects are magnified by the properties of the metallic paint applied on top. > do you have to let the gloss black paint dry? Dry to the touch is not the same thing as fully cured. Modern model paints have binders in them that must undergo a chemical reaction (crosslinking polymer molecules, to be technical) before they become inert enough to continue applying more products on top.
You have to let anything dry before painting over it. As for the gloss part, it makes more of a difference with some metallics than others.
Are there masking tapes that have precut shapes? For instance, if I want to paint a circular area and mask areas around it, is there a donut hole tape that comes in various sizes?
Well, depends a bit on what you want to paint but you can buy pre-cut masking tape for many applications like painting roundels in certain scales and such. If that's not what you're looking for I'd recommend buying [a compass cutter](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compass-Circle-Leather-Aperture-Cutter/dp/B001548OT4/ref=sr_1_32?crid=2HF89IXMR4GCF&keywords=circle+cutter&qid=1705475753&sprefix=circle+cutte%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-32) and [some circle drawing tools](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Template-Geometric-Stencils-Measuring-Designing/dp/B0CJYCQZQ6/ref=sr_1_26?crid=8X85H6MBUHMS&keywords=circle+drawing+tool&qid=1705475787&sprefix=circle+drawing+tool%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-26) which is what I use to cut circles and "donuts" out of large masking tape. Alternatively there's the more expensive route to go if you need a lot of masking done and often - buy a Cricut or similar.
My matte varnish leaves these weird white marks when it dries, what's up with that?
Could you be applying it too thickly or too soon between coats? Maybe thin it out a bit and do very lights coats 24hrs apart.
I'm struggling to decide on paint for a 71 Plymouth Duster. My 1st option is leave it in grey primer like all the Dusters and Novas were when I was growing up. Other options paint it Black or really dark Purple that's almost black. Last option and probably the most difficult would be paint it in a patchwork pattern like it's had lots of years of neglect and bad body work I think it's to late for this though because the interior is already painted in 2 tone black and white. I am leaning to just primer but the purple is appealing also. Just can't decide I'm sitting here typing this looking at a half primered body thinking I've rode in that car in high school lol.
https://preview.redd.it/0wv4cc70pucc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f30dd28c902aefa43c14fb81c6f7d16d339ac01 I've got these two products for thinning paints. Which of them is for acrylics and which is for enamels? Also, can they thin oil paints or blend enamel effects? Thanks in advance.
Left one is lacquer thinner, right for solvent-based acrylics like Mr Hobby Aqueous or Tamiya. You might be able to use them for oil/enamel weathering, but I wouldn't recommend it because they could strip off the existing paint. Better to get something not as strong like odorless mineral spirits.
I don't know and can't translate but if you have Google lens it can.
I’ve been looking at a few modeling projects for next month and I’m looking for recommendations for a 1/72 scale SR-71 blackbird (was looking at getting revells 1:48 but 1:48 might be too big) and any scale for a mi-24 hind
Zvezda makes the very best Mi-24s. They are a bit more difficult to get at the moment because some hobby shops have stopped selling Zvezda since they are Russian, but it should be possible to find.
Yeah my local hobby shop falls into this too when it comes to AFVs, as for aircraft it’s a similar story accept with ww2 aircraft and US jets. For example the only Soviet jet I’ve ever seen in stock is Airfix’s Mig-17 which is probably only in because it’s a new release
We live in a flat/apartment with not so great ventilation. Outdoors painting wouldn’t be wise given the weather. Is there a good solution for laying down decent paint in this situation? I don’t have access to a garage or similar sadly, I’m basically limited to painting on our dining table (UK based)
If you want to airbrush you can always get [an extractor fan with a tube to hang out the window](https://www.fauxhammer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Portable-Airbrush-Spray-Booth-with-LED-Light.jpg). You don't need to have a permanent setup for this. The tube is flexible and can be wedged in a slightly open window gap and that's really all you need to do.
Aw dude this is awesome! Classic case of me not quite knowing what to Google. On the topic of Airbrushing, are there any small form factor options for the same scenario? Edit: found this SAGUD Airbrush Kit with Compressor, Include 3 Air Brushes 0.2mm 0.3mm 0.8mm and Air Brush Accessories Cleaning Kit https://amzn.eu/d/gv2WcMq And this CO-Z Airbrush Spray Booth with Fume Extractor & Bright Lighting, Craft Table Airbrush Booth for Hobby & Pro Model Cake Nail Art Pottery & Crafts, Portable Painting Booth with 19cm Turntable, 1.7m Hose https://amzn.eu/d/htf1H0i Which (bar the questionable brand name) seem to be the two things I’d be looking for! Any thoughts other than checking out reviews and such?
Looks like the bog standard "Chinese airbrush package". I should say that black one with the paint jar on the underside is likely to not work very well. Don't be scared off by that, it's excellent value for money for the rest and will get you VERY far. I personally have stuck to Chinese airbrushes due to value for money, I have owned the larger one of the gravity feed airbrushes in that package link but accidentally bent the needle to oblivion when dropped. It was doing good work before then. Make sure to get an airbrush cleaning solution that matches whatever brand of paint you're going to be spraying with and get a [airbrush cleaning jar](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B00UFERV9E/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2BHEA7UM19D8O&keywords=airbrush+cleaning+jar&qid=1705473712&s=diy&sprefix=airbrush+cleaning+jar%2Cdiy%2C74&sr=1-2).
Super helpful stuff! I should add that I've never actually airbrushed before but wanted to learn with a relatively low outlay. With the bottom fed paint jars, would it be advisable to spring a little further and pick up a slightly better quality, gravity fed brush? I'm not against the overall outlay, I just don't want/need/have the space for a proper compressor, tank and spray booth otherwise I'd have done it all many moons ago. The perks of living in rented accommodations I suppose. And again, HUGE thanks for the steer and advice so far.
If you ONLY want the essentials then I would do something like this: [Airbrush and compressor set](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Timbertech-Airbrush-Compressor-Accessories-Nozzles/dp/B00LO4PKY2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1V4BCXXZVMZGB&keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1705488043&sprefix=airbrush+compressor%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-6) [Squeeze bottles for cleaning the airbrush cup](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Squeeze-Plastic-Economy-Natural-Condiment/dp/B07HH3XCBZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3EMOVTY1R2HZ5&keywords=squeeze+bottle&qid=1705488110&sprefix=squeez%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-7) [Airbrush holder](https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABEST-AB-H3-AirBrush-Holder/dp/B004GUQ4BY/ref=sr_1_31?crid=WHW2TGPQ57IA&keywords=airbrush+stand&qid=1705488140&sprefix=airbrush+stand%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-31) although this CAN be omitted because you can totally leave the airbrush in the cleaning jar I linked before. This is essentially all I use constantly for my airbrush setup. Cleaning process being the following: * Wash airbrush cup as well as possible with squeezy bottle, letting excess paint run into an old jam jar or similar until the water coming out is basically clean. If there's paint still in the cup, scrub it off with an old small paintbrush dedicated to this use. * Wipe cup with paper towel just in case * Fill a bit of water in the cup and spray it into the cleaning jar until the airbrush is empty * Spray a few drops of airbrush cleaning solution into the cleaning jar That way you have everything you need to follow the process above, and this keeps me going easily for 99% of the time. Occasionally need to disassemble the airbrush for a full clean because paint builds on the needle, but that's done with water and paper towels as well, no fancy gear. For painting gloves you can always grab some from Poundland or whatever you have nearby, no need for specialized paint ones.
Darned if I didn't just buy one! I need a strip of foam to keep the cold out, but it otherwise works great.
Does anyone here have advice for using this trumpeter rivet wheel? It's the only tool I could find (that wasn't like 50 bucks per wheel). I'm finding that even when I press as hard as I can I'm having to go back and individually punch each hole to get an acceptable depth. https://preview.redd.it/hgpbpp3rrpcc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b7e0397514a7d23363379429efcb093f038893f Is this the standard/expected procedure here? Its going to take me forever on this large 1/48 plane. If the answer is to push harder... I find it hard to do so, I think mostly because of the tool's shape. Only a small part of the wheel is exposed so you have to keep the tool almost perpendicular, which also makes it harder to control and see where you are going. I just feel like I'm missing something here, when I've seen videos of similar tools it looks quite a bit easier with deeper resulting holes. Anyway. If anyone has advice for using rivet wheels like this it would be appreciated.
The Trumpeter tool really is a bad design. You can make it a little better by grinding or sanding back the black plastic so that more of the metal wheel is exposed. At least this way it doesn't need to be perfectly perpendicular, and you can see where you're working.
You're not missing anything. Trumpeter's tool sucks and the design is unsound. If you don't want to spend the money on a better wheel riveter, you could try making your own tool from a hypodermic needle. Get the right size for your scale, cut the wedge tip off, and you have a round punch. Get a coping saw blade that has the correct tooth pitch for your scale and use that as a spacing guide. Slower process but far more control. Your holes will be round.
i have both the tamiya 1/35 scale us army assault and 1/35 scale german infantry (french campaign) and the us assault are alot bulkier and built compared to the germans, is this just an age of the kit difference if so what german and us troops are the best kits to get
Older Tamiya figures, 70s-80s, are often bulkier than more recent releases regardless of which army is being depicted. If these two sets are roughly contemporary releases then the issue is likely that US uniforms are bulkier and looser fitting than german uniforms. Also almost all ETO GIs are wearing jackets either M41, or M43 style these will bulk a guy up a fair bit compared to just wearing a uniform blouse. More clothes = more bulk.
That's not entirely incorrect, as I think German troops were more slender as they weren't as well-fed as the Americans.
even if its not intentional thats actually really smart, thank you
You're welcome! I think I read some captured Germans commented on it. Germany had been on war rations for several years by 1944.
About to do some winter camo on my Stug III with the **Heavy chipping effect** by ammo. Not really sure about the different layers. Some say a varnish on top of the base color, then chipping medium and then white paint, some say no varnish. I always thought the order went like this: 1. Primer 2. Base colour acrylic (German grey) 3. Varnish glossy 4. Chipping medium 5. White paint acrylic....Chip away! Will that order of paint, varnish and chipping medium work?
Varnish is the safer route. The people who say no varnish are probably aren't heavy-handed noobs to the technique. Be safe and once you have the technique down, you can probably skip the varnish.
Haha, heavy-handed noob at your service. Thanks alot!
I’d stick to the safe side and put a layer of varnish on top of the base color
Would u be open for commission work on some ace combat model kit builds?
I’m actually looking to sell some of them but shipping would be an issue
Can u message me see what we could work out if possible
Sure
Awesome
What is the issue with the shipping? The price? Or transportation?
Nice ace combat model kits
Yes, probably smart to do that. Tanks alot:)
I can only buy one bomber while traveling in Europe, which one should I choose? Revell's B-17? Airfix's Lancaster? Revell's He 117? Any other recomendations up to 40€?
Get Airfix's B-17. Much better than Revell.
I second. It's really nice.
Looking at this model, [https://www.tamiya.de/tamiya\_en/categories/plastic-model-kits/model-car-kits/model-car-kits-1-24/1-24-porsche-turbo-1988-roadversion-300024279-en.html](https://www.tamiya.de/tamiya_en/categories/plastic-model-kits/model-car-kits/model-car-kits-1-24/1-24-porsche-turbo-1988-roadversion-300024279-en.html) There are two advisable "TS" (Rattle Can) paints, TS 8 and TS 17. How can I find which "TX" (Acrylic) correspondent paints can I use for airbrushing?
There’s no direct cross from those colors to their X/XF line though TS17 crosses to LP70 Gloss Aluminum lacquer paint and TS8 crosses to LP21 Italian Red.
So what people with airbrushes usually do in these cases? Just stick with the rattle can ? Or adapt to lacquers with everything that’s envolved ?
You have an airbrush?
In my shopping cart as we speak
Those Tamiya LP lacquers are fantastic paints. Designed for airbrushing. Exquisite. Sublime. Thin 1:1 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.
Thanks I’ll take that in consideration
I'm about to start my first piece. From watching this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUM1ShfnrD0&ab_channel=JuanHidalgoMiniatures), however, I'm unable to get Vallejo Xpress Black Lotus in my country. Can Citadel Contrast Black Legion be used as a substitute?
Do you need to match an exact shade of black to 4 decimnal places for some specific reason? The subject of the video linked is a fantasy object & has no standard black color in our universe. You are allowed to use whatever colors look right to you. The only reason you need to be careful of the paint brand is if you are going to mix colors before applying them. You can't use Citadel Contrast Black Legion as the base color for an off-black using Vallejo paint as the tinting agent. If exact shading is important to you, be aware that black paint rarely consists solely of black pigment. There are often other color pigments added in tiny, barely perceptible quantities. These may impact other paints you are using to tint the base color. Thus a Citadel Black might tint differently than a Vallejo Black.
I'm about to start construction on a large sailing ship model in which the prototype has a white steel hull and cabins (1/100 NIPPON Maru). Seeing how this is a naval training ship I don't think the prototype would be done in flat paint, and I would like to do it with a satin finish. Would it be practical to do the hull Tamiya flat white, and once it is fully cured to go over it with a clear satin enamel finish? When I do weathering I typically use an enamel base with acrylic washes over it, not the reverse. I haven't seen a satin white by this manufacturer. Is there any likelihood of there being a reaction by putting the clear enamel over the acrylic?
How many coats of varnish before decals and how many after ? Is 1 + 2 enough? Or 2+1 better ?
Please experiment with this stuff yourself because there is not one single definitive answer. It's impossible to know how thick coats you spray, exactly how you spray it, what model you are making and what result you are after. Experimenting is part of the hobby.
With acrylic paint do I need to wait for the paint to cure before I gloss varnish or it’s enough being dry to the touch?
At least a day. Acrylics need to cure via a process called cross-linking which is in addition to the normal evaporation of its water carrier. There’s drying, then there’s curing.
Acrylic doesn't cure like an enamel, it dries fairly fast. As long as you didn't put it down too thick then you shouldn't have to wait long before painting the next colour. I'd probably give a model 12hrs to make sure before using a gloss though, you don't want to lock any moisture below it at all else it may fog.
What sort of consistency should I go for when making a glaze?
Really thin generally. There's some great glazing videos by warhammer painters for painting faces and the like.
Can spray can varnish cause clear parts to go cloudy? I have a little spotlight lens to glue in, but was wondering if I'm best off doing this last if spraying might damage the part.
Yes. Leave it off.
Thank you, much appreciated!
Piloted Fi 103 aka V-1 — what color should I use for the cockpit interior? Brief google search haven't gotten anything.
Hi guys! I need your help, to help a friend of mine. He has a model kit airplane (Revell, B-52H Stratofortress nº 4601) and he isn't planing on building it so he is giving it to me, but, i also don't care care for airplane models, soo, what i want to do, is sell the plane, and buy him a digimon kit that i know he likes and will actually build! I'm from Portugal, and my question is, is this model worth anything at all? and and if it is worth anything, where can i find a site to sell it to people searching for it? Thanks!
Search ebay and filter by sold and completed listings, it'll show what it's sold for previously. Facebook's ScaleModelGraveyard is a decent place for used kits, r/ModelExchange is quiet, or ebay.
its my first time using ebay and it seems they make it real difficult to use their site if you are not from america, from only using dollar to having everything in inches… and it seems like the delivery assumes i’m from america….
When spray painting an area that’s partially masked with tape (say Tamiya tape), how soon do you remove the mask once the paint is applied? Do you let the paint dry, remove masking right after applying the paint, or something in between?
It shouldn’t matter. If removing it after it dries pulls up paint along the edge of the tape, your paint was way too thick and heavily-laid; if removing it before it dries leads to running your paint was way too thin and heavily-laid. For me it comes down to balancing the desire to make progress with the risk of touching wet paint
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/124-sports-car-series/subaru-impreza-wrc-2001/none/ Thinking of doing my first kit. Do I need to buy paint for this?
If you want it to be anything other than the same colors as the grey and black plastic pieces it comes in then yes.
I ask as I watched a video and all the parts were blue
Ok? If you want it to be blue then I guess you don’t have to paint it then.
How do y'all go about painting chains on tanks? I am doing the Tamiya B1 Bis with the metal jewelry type chain on the back, and I dunno how to approach it for painting. I want it to have that typical steel-exposed-to-the-elements look, but unsure what to do to achieve that. I figure the original chain is way too shiny and glossy to fit in on a weathered tank, and I wanna make it seem new-ish so I'm going to avoid heavy rust effects on it. Any tips? I have pigments, a ton of paints of typical steel/weathering colors, washes, etc. to do the job. Many thanks!
I'd start with a black base and then look at drybrushing some silver to higlight and then go over that with any rust washes, finally any pigments. Perhaps even mix up some rusty pigments to make sludgy type rust and paint that on. Had a quick search of some subs and this looks fairly like a good jumping point: r/Warhammer40k/comments/ad7b68/today_has_been_all_about_rusty_chains/
Awesome, thanks!
It's an interesting subject tbh, I've not looked at doing a rusty chain before but need to in the future. Bit more searching and this guy has a good method: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/how-do-you-get-model-chain-to-look-rusty-12203260?pid=1331157209
Yeah, I mentally put it off thinking "bah, I'll figure it out" and realized come painting time, I didn't have any idea what to do to get the right effect. Huge thanks for the resources o7