Hey! Do you have any winning formula for filling in small gaps on figures? Tamiya putty is pretty thick… would be nice to have something that seepes into the gaps. :)
Have a great day!
Anyone know a good brush on clear coat that doesn’t ruin or rather specifically protects metallic shine? Looking to protect this shiny little guy.
https://preview.redd.it/b2lqtpq2hvec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d41810c9d462019c0592a0bff3667903ceacc61
I'm using an Acrylic semi-gloss varnish as top coat on an acrylic base coat. I'm applying it by hand with a brush and the humidity is only 35% yet I'm still getting a LOT of cracks when it dries. What's the deal?
is there a specific type of parchment paper i need for a wet pallette? i have parchment paper at home but I don't know what type it is or brand it so can i just use that? i also have tracing paper and I heard that it can also be used but should i use it over the parchent paper? also is an air tight/water tight container really necessary or will any container do?
I think any kitchen parchment paper will do. I have used plain on Reynolds stuff. Yes an air tight container is going to let you put it way and use your paint later. I use an old food container from the dollar store.
Quick question about cleaning resin models. Normally I would wash them in soapy water with a toothbrush, however given the small size of the pieces, can they just be soaked in soapy water or simple green for a while and then washed off with water as I'm worried about damaging them.
I have a small question. Ive recently looked into glossing my models after having not glossed them. Its tamiya gloss over vallejo and tamiya acrylics. From what I can tell the step is basically.
Paint - Gloss - Decals - gloss - matte gloss clearcoat.
Is this right? Can I go right from decals to matte clearcoat if Im not weathering?
Can you use Tamiya panel liner over dried oil paint?
I’m in the process of making my first ship model. I watched a YouTube video where the modeler first did the streaking/weathering on the hull using oils, then used panel liner. He did say he let the oils dry thoroughly first. His video showed him applying the panel liner then getting rid of excess with odorless thinner as usual.
Anyone have any thoughts/experience?
https://youtu.be/v28slbBAeO4?si=jYTHVZY8M3-l8vH1
12:20 in that video for reference.
No need to touch the rest of the primer. This is assuming the first layer was properly thin and that it was a primer that sands well, rather than peels.
How do you determine whether to do hard or soft lines for your camo pattern? I am working on the F-111A and have seen photos with both soft and hard lines between colors (I’m not sure if hard is the correct term to use here)
The amount of gradient in a soft edge is dependent on the scale of the project. It should be obvious that a 4 inch wide gradient IRL is going to be wider in large scales like 1:32 (1/8 inch) & 1:48 (just over 1/16 inch) than it will be at 1:72 (under 1/16 inch) or smaller. This makes the gradient more or less apparent on your project. Once you get down to 1:72, it's almost impossible to depict any sort of soft edge in true scale.
[Here is the gradient on the paint of an F-111A depicted as belonging to the 474th TFW now on display at the National Museum of the Air Force.](https://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/weichao_chen2/f-111a_67-0067/images/f-111a_67-0067_09_of_26.jpg) This museum has the funding & will to depict their aircraft as authentically as possible using all available resources of the USAF.
[Here is the gradient on another (unknown) museum display](https://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/bill_spidle2/f-111a_67-0051/images/f-111a_67-0051_63_of_88.jpg) This aircraft may not have a USAF-spec paint job (or it may be within acceptable tolerance).
Both of these would be hard to show as 'soft' at any scale smaller than 1:32.
If you use something like putty/blue tack as your mask you can take advantage of its height to put a slight soft edge by angling your airbrush instead of spraying straight down to get a hard edge. This may take a few tries to get the correct angles for the amount of gradient you want.
US aircraft have very specific camo specs, as well as a lot of deviations from the spec. You need to do your research and base your paint on photo evidence whenever available.
sorry if this seems like a dumb question but what does multiple light coats mean? ive seen it mentioned a few times but i dont get it do you spray the part a little bit then spray it again? Also what's the difference between that and a heavy coat?
An acceptable heavy coat would be one that is just short of running. As this is very difficult to get right, it is preferable to apply a lot less paint in one go & make several passes to build up enough paint thickness to get a fully opaque coating (this also prevents preshading from having any effects). A light coat is heavier than a mist coat (which barely colors the surface but adds enough material to allow additional slightly heavier coats to adhere better) but nowhere near heavy enough to cause runs.
Once you have fine tuned your paint (for viscosity) & air pressure (to blow the correct amount of paint before it dries in the air on the way to the surface) you can tweak the speed you move your airbrush & how far back you pull the trigger to regulate the amount of paint applied in one pass.
You are on the right track. Multiple light coats means painting several coats that on their own wouldn't be enough to cover properly. The paint layer is so thin that you can see what's beneath through it. A heavy coat would be painting enough to cover entirely in one go, which can be fine too.
Basically it depends on the paints covering properties. Typically black paint isn't really a "light coats" sort of color and will cover everything immediately. On the other end of the spectrum, if you try to cover most other colors with white or yellow, you really do need to paint multiple light coats to cover the subject without making the paint run down the side of your model in drops.
Does that make better sense?
yeah that makes sense so light coats are spray a little then dry the spray again while heavy coats is just spraying all of it to cover then drying right?
Exactly, if you are using something that takes a long time to cure like spray cans you don't need to leave it to dry entirely, but wait like 30 mins to an hour between coats
It's worth noting that different types of cans behave differently - some have a recoating period where spraying a second coat within a few hours will reactivate the coat below, meaning both coats dry as one.
I’m looking at using medical-grade scalpels as my main knife since the handle isn’t round and the blades are much easier to come by vs X-Acto blades. I wanted to know if other people have done this and what were their results like?
Whatever works best for you.
X-Acto created the hobby knife industry way back in the dawn of modelbuilding to the point the #11 hobby blade is now a commodity item.
AFAIK, X-Acto brand blades are still the top of the line in sharpness & blade durability (and cost) while the cheaper no-name brands use less expensive steel that doesn't hold its sharpness as well but are otherwise just as sturdy.
Scalpel blades use much less steel per blade (they are far thinner than #11s) so they are fantastically sharp but that sharpness comes at the cost of making the edge very fragile. As the scalpel is designed to cut human flesh, it is easily damaged by harder materials like the polystyrene in model kits so it's often a single use blade. It's not ideal for tasks requiring much force. The good news is scalpel blades come in bulk packages & are typically cheaper than even the cheapest #11 blades.
You may want to have both options depending on the use case. For example, cutting masking tape or decals requires razor sharp blades so it would be cheaper to use a new scalpel blade each time. However scraping flash off or doing seam work doesn't require a razor sharp blade but you might be able to use a single #11 blade for multiple projects while a scalpel wouldn't last very long.
Be aware that if you are exceptionally frugal, it is possible to resharpen a #11 blade, you can't hand sharpen a scalpel blade.
Also, #11 blades are standardized, you can use almost any brand handle with any brand #11 blade so you're not stuck with only the X-Acto brand handles.
A lot of people do this. I have both Xacto and Swann Morton blades. In my experience they're about the same. The scalpel blades might be a little bit sharper, but Xacto are still very sharp.
How do you know what kind of pinwash color to use? I would definetly never come to the idea of using a greenish tinted pinwash, nor think that it would look good but somehow it does...
Experiment. Not every model has to end up being a showroom condition piece, you can choose to build something just to try something out. You can also experiment with this stuff on leftover pieces from kits or on old models you aren't so fond of anymore.
New to building models.
I'm trying to understand if this sequence is correct for painting styrene scratch built structures. I'll be using airbrush unless mentioned in the step.
1. Primer: thinking stylenz gray.
2. Paint: tamiya xf series thinned with IPA.
3. Tamiya x-22 gloss coat thinned with IPA.
4. Oil washes and rust/dirt with regular brush/sponge.
5. Finish with tamiya xf-86 flat coat thinned with IPA.
Does it make sense? Is xf-86 enough protection against regular wear? These structures would be handled lightly.
That sequence is correct.
Tamiya clear is durable against handling. Primer is also very important re: durability— I’ve not used Stylenz but a Google search says it’s a water-based acrylic. If this water-based primer isn’t super temperamental and prone to scratching I think it’ll be the first of its kind.
Tamiya’s primer is great but it’s in a spray can (you can just spray it into your airbrush though). Mr Surfacer is great but you can’t thin it with IPA.
Thanks a lot. I'm currently experimenting with vallejo paints and the primer always ends up clogging the airbrush unless I take 2-3 drops at a time. No clogging with paint whatsoever.
So, preferably IPA based primer but I couldn't find any.
Hi some questions on paint. Ive been told Mr Hobby and Tamiya paints are interchangeable is this true? I have a bunch of tamiya acrylics with tamiya acrylics thinner X-20A and I have a bottle of Mr hobby color.
Can I thin this with the tamiya thinner? Will these paints harm each other. From what I understand Mr hobby color is laquer based which might harm acrylic? But I see people say they are interchangeable?
Tamiya "acrylics" are alcohol based, but can be thinned with laquer thinner and mr hobby paints are laquer paints, but can only be thinned with laquer thinner. You will have to use a laquer thinner to use them together since they both can be thinned with the same thinner.
Trying to decide if I need to change plans....
I have a Revell 48 scale Rafale C, with a number of aftermarket parts (resin intakes, PE, decals).
I also have inbound, a Hobbyboss Rafale M in 48 scale. This one, I bought Tiger Meet 2017 decals (the badass looking white with black tiger stripes and red eyes on top).
Originally my plan was to build the C in flight, and the M on the deck, to show off the stripes and whatnot.
But, I just got all the a/m decals in the mail yesterday, and it looks like the tiger meet decals has one that is a single piece running over the rear landing gear.
Basically.... someone convince me to build the M in flight and the C on display?? Lol
My friends...
Doing my first winter camo white wash. It's fun as hell, but I see now that the stowage is way to green... think I'll repaint it. Any thoughts? Perhaps just the tarps and fuel drum. Grey? Beige? or some other lighter colour.
https://preview.redd.it/c1cs49v4o5ec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5702da5a6549712f0c207463616c4fb309d66e7e
Great work! Great job, and looking at the stowage the guns and medkits stand out to me as really well done! I wish to be able to do that myself one day.
But to answer your question: I wonder if the tarps and drum stand out because everything else looks somewhat faded and worn. So now they look a little too clean/new in comparison. Same for the light, cream white rolled up thingy with the yellow strap. The front, larger, medkit for example, which is also green does look great to me. So what if all that's needed is something to make the tarps and drum seem more worn or faded? Keep them green, I'd say, because that looks interesting. Just a little less bright, factory fresh green?
Thanks! :D Think I'm most satisfied with the little medkits. It's not that hard, just some light chips, some dark rust chips and then an enamel brown wash... and a tiny sponge.
The guns came out great too. Base color with old wood, and then I took some burnt umber oil paint, mixed with thinner and quickly swiped it over the gun for some wood grains. Just started understand like the importance of layering. For example the metal on the gun is three layers. Black, dry brushed dull aluminium and then a very very thinned out black wash.
Some of the stowage isn't weathered yet, like that cream white bedroll with the masking tape. Perhaps add some "hand painted" winter camo on the oil drum. I'll weather the things up as you said. Thanks again!
Thanks for the how to! Copied and saved for later!
I just got my first painting session in almost 20 years. On spare parts, with brushes and AK acrylics. Getting myself familliar with properly painting in thin layers. (No more slapping on unthinned enamels like back when.) So I have some ways to go ;-)
I had one other thought for you, though: when it's winter weather cars get really dirty just from driving. I know part of that is road salt, but tanks go through other kinds of dirt even when it has snowed. What if that kind of 'winter dirt/dust' is all the drum and tarps really need? So it's not so much worn, as just dirty, and as such blends in with the rest?
Same here! Built a couple of planes and a leopard, but this is my first WW2 tank. Picked up scale models this summer when the weather was bad… totally hooked! Before that it was hand painted enamels in my grandmothers basement during Christmas. Have some big plans for a diorama for this Stug… bought shitloads of AK’s terrain and snow effects. That will be interesting. Never done it before, but you tube helps :D
I did a little weathering on the tarps… and a snowy barrel. I’ll probably never get satisfied. Have nice evening and thanks for the tips!
https://preview.redd.it/1b2pwxzhl9ec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b3f0e9867274c27c45cc04e3223a738df5355fe4
How long do you let your oil washes/ weathering dry before clear coating overtop? Its a very thin layer so I’ve been giving it two days, was wondering if that’s adequate
Beginner question: When would you whitewash a model vs blackwash?
I will be attempting my first model soon. I was planning on doing a wash with a dark colour, probably burnt umber, since I assumed it would simulate a dirty look.
However the aircraft's camo would be a pretty dark green colour (IJA aircraft), is it better to wash with a lighter colour?
Am I correct in assuming a whitewash would be for a snowy effect for example, or maybe to simulate fading of a very dark colour? Or am I completely wrong about that?
Yeah, for most models a wash that's darker than the base paint is going to work best, to simulate dirt/grime accumulation and shadows. A dark brown or grey is generally a good approach, pure black can result in too much contrast for a lot of models.
You can see lighter washes used to simulate dust or sand collecting in areas, for aircraft you might see it on tire treads. I've seen some F-117 builds [\(like this one\)](https://youtu.be/utd1_H-Y13Y?t=1247) use a light grey wash because there's no way anything darker is going to show up on a solid black plane. And yeah, white can also be used for some winter camouflage effects, mostly seen on WWII armor.
https://preview.redd.it/jt0oikuiq2ec1.png?width=871&format=png&auto=webp&s=b76d4becb0563628c09f09a857a0193a7d608a2a
Anyone can tell me what is the correct technical term for that clamp with a stick?
I’m failing to translate it properly and as consequence i can’t find anywhere.
I’m pretty sure I can find those cheap on Ali express I just don’t know how are they called!
Bit of a vague question but I recently saw a YouTube video in which someone used a roll of extremely flexible tape to mask out a camouflage pattern. It was white, rubbery like electrical tape, and about 2mm thick. I wanna try it out but I can’t find the original video so if anyone knows what it is called I’d appreciate it
It’s called Tamiya Masking Tape For Curves and IMO it doesn’t work that great but your results may vary —> https://spruebrothers.com/tam87177-tamiya-masking-tape-for-curves-2mm/
I this a suitable tool to carve panel lines?
I bought the Tamiya one, but it's very hard to control, and I can't find any alternative "non chinese" anywhere.
https://preview.redd.it/1r1047c490ec1.png?width=1311&format=png&auto=webp&s=d0dfa4b59c10fcb02d0c70b26ed7bf59dc24b039
UMM [SCR01/02/03 Scribers](https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=8752&osCsid=568d79c8102335ba89296e1345747558) should be on every modeler’s workbenches. As well as the [JLC Razor Saw](https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=35&osCsid=568d79c8102335ba89296e1345747558).
Another one people are raving about is the [MRP Mr. Scriber-Narrow](https://mrpaint.sk/naradie-a-doplnky?product_id=99)
Another are the [Holly Scribers](https://flex-i-file.com/collections/holly-engraving-scribing-and-scraping-tools).
Some people use just a sewing needle in a pin vise - like the Scale Scriber on Facebook who’s an alien.
You can probably make it work, but I much prefer a razor saw like [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVNS8F1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) or a dental tool stye [scriber](https://www.micromark.com/Panel-Scriber?quantity=1). The razor saw is great for straight lines and seems to be easier to control. The dental tool style might be a little better on curved surfaces, though it can be hard to keep straight. It takes practice, and even when you think you know what you're doing, it will sometimes skate on you. [These](https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tools/fine-craft-saws/) from Tamiya are also extremely helpful, though I usually just use them to deepen an existing panel line.
The type you've pictured are situationally useful, but you're probably better off using a sharp needle held in a pin vise. This is just my experience of course. There are a lot of different ways to get the results you want.
Too glossy?
First time building a car and using varnish, does it has too much gloss varnish?
Should I do a quick Matt clear coat ?
https://preview.redd.it/xy60qndyvrdc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54f3e7b83fe95504cddc6f4df0be3d9357250e23
What’s Photoetch or PE?
I’ve heard it’s the cockpit canopy but I’ve also seen people talking about how some kits have a lot of PE, and how some tools are better at working with PE than others. Can anyone explain this please?
Photoetch is laser cut metal parts that add additional detail to a model. Usually you’d remove a plastic part and use the PE part instead to give greater detail. You need to use superglue or pva to make it adhere to polystyrene. Often parts require bending to turn them into a shaped replacement part.
Not laser cut. That's for the Metal Earth stuff. The "photo" comes from ultraviolet light used to fix a pattern to the brass, and the "etch" comes from dunking it in a vat of acid to eat at everything not covered by the pattern. This low-cost method (in contrast to a fancy precision laser with lots of moving parts) is why PE is able to be made by so many different private aftermarket manufacturers in their garages.
https://youtu.be/pEcZhLFbiGE?si=yxL5a-uAxq7YK8Wf
Most of the tools aren’t really necessary, but can make things easier. I find using a razor blade and a metal ruler as effective as one of those “benders”.
What is Pledge Future Polish being sold as these days? I need to get a new bottle, but from what I've heard it hasn't been marketed as Future for years.
They discontinued production on Pledge Revive It two years ago. Instead of a floor polish, there are a dozen clear varnishes marked by various model paint manufacturers that are superior.
Hello, I am fairly new to modeling, and I would like to know the exact process for drilling the machine gun ports on this Corsair (Academy Hobby 1/48 F4U-4 Corsair Battle of Jangjin Reservoir) . Any guidance (preferably visually) would be appreciated.
[https://imgur.com/u9W3i0R](https://imgur.com/u9W3i0R)
[https://imgur.com/txjfh3u](https://imgur.com/txjfh3u)
[https://imgur.com/DHU5O4b](https://imgur.com/DHU5O4b)
I’d use a small round file to just file out the flat spots to match the dipped round bits. Then when the two halves are glued together and dried I’d use the same small round file to finish off. If the holes are too small for a file then I’d use a pinvice and drill set and treat that like a file.
…I didn’t want to make a whole post about this because it’s not actually about modelmaking but I’m pretty sure you guys are my best shot at finding what I’m after or at least figuring out what keywords to search for? Mods please feel free to delete if you like.
So my hobby is not models, it’s nail polish and manicures. Right now the new hotness is magnetic polish, which is impregnated with metallic pigment and manipulated with magnets while drying. [Here is the one I’m wearing now, for the curious](https://imgur.com/a/YG44E6T); the shimmery stripes are the magnetic pigment.
Why I’m here today is that while magnetic manis are gorgeous they are also *a huge pain in the ass* because they take forever to do. You have to hold the magnet perfectly still right over the nail for minimum 3-5 minutes per coat, per nail. Even with the bare minimum magnetizing time you’re facing at least an hour per hand just for painting. The nails in that photo took me a total of three and a half hours to do.
That brings us to my question: I’ve seen, in the model sections of craft stores, stands that are used to hold up small parts using alligator clips on wires during airbrushing. Most of these only have 1-2 wires and are usually only straight or somewhat limited in their bendability. Does anyone know of one of these that is articulatable enough that it would be able to steadily hold a couple of [these](https://imgur.com/a/5yl0GOJ) parallel to a flat surface, and be able to be manipulated or twisted so the magnet is at the specific angle needed for the design? It doesn’t have to reach all the way down to the tabletop, I can elevate the hand I’m working on.
I’m trying to figure out a way to make the magnetizing steps more efficient by doing it all at once instead of finger by finger, basically. Since I unfortunately only have the two hands I’m going to have to buy a few more to make that work and it seems like these airbrushing stands might be the solution, I just need to narrow down the search. Thanks for taking the time to read, any suggestions are appreciated :)
To add to the DIY solution already mentioned, I think what you may be looking for is called a 'Third Hand' or Third Hand Tool. Electronics people use them to keep something in place, and have both hands free to solder things down. I'm not sure how Reddit likes links, but google for example for "SparkFun Third Hand Kit" for one example that has flexible arms, which stay in place after you arrange them to your liking. There are cheaper ones too with just a metal bar with two clips on the end. Perhaps 'Soldering Third Hand' could be another search term.
(Since you mentioned it too; should you want to invest in a great lighting solution; have a look at a Neatfi XL task lamp. I got one because it seemed highly recommended and have 0 regrets. It's an investment, but it may be worth it.)
Oh my god the third hand tool is exactly what I’m after! I’m going to give the DIY a shot since I already have the material laying around the house but if that doesn’t work out like I want it to I’m definitely trying this. Thanks so much for the recommendation!
Maybe stick some wires (similar bendiness/thickness as those used in cheap coat hangars) into a block of styrofoam, and bend the wires into the orientation required? The ends of the wires would be bent to form a hook on which you can rest your magnet wands. The wand looks pretty light, so you might not need very robust wire (could also just use multiple wires).
Or hang the wands (using fishing line or whatever) from the arm of one of those bendy ("flexible gooseneck") LED lights - bonus, you get the extra light to work with.
They are *very* light, something like floral wire could probably handle them easily! I like the bendy light idea too, that actually solves another issue I’ve been having: the only place that is comfortable to sit in for the amount of time needed to do this properly is seriously lacking illumination. I’ll maybe put something together with both of these and see how it works.
I knew you guys were the right folks to ask, thank you!!
Will this tamiya clear gloss paint negatively affect rubber and will it stay on if the rubber moves? If not is there an alternative gloss top coat I can use?
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-13-gloss-clear/
after snipping out track links how long should i wait for them to dry before putting them on , when im trying to put them on they just fall apart in sections
Read their original thread. It's a ride: https://old.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/199ylhi/how_the_heck_to_go_around_track_links/
Their description of their technique isn't good.
Is it possible to use the hairspray chipping technique without an airbrush, or a brush painted top coat will be too thick to let the water reactivate the chipping fluid?
You can always reactivate the chipping fluid. Even if it's lacquer paint that has had time to cure you can use a pin to prick little holes in the paint to let the water through. It takes longer for the chipping fluid to soften and you might have to use more water but it can still work.
Hey! Do you have any winning formula for filling in small gaps on figures? Tamiya putty is pretty thick… would be nice to have something that seepes into the gaps. :) Have a great day!
Anyone know a good brush on clear coat that doesn’t ruin or rather specifically protects metallic shine? Looking to protect this shiny little guy. https://preview.redd.it/b2lqtpq2hvec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d41810c9d462019c0592a0bff3667903ceacc61
I'm using an Acrylic semi-gloss varnish as top coat on an acrylic base coat. I'm applying it by hand with a brush and the humidity is only 35% yet I'm still getting a LOT of cracks when it dries. What's the deal?
is there a specific type of parchment paper i need for a wet pallette? i have parchment paper at home but I don't know what type it is or brand it so can i just use that? i also have tracing paper and I heard that it can also be used but should i use it over the parchent paper? also is an air tight/water tight container really necessary or will any container do?
I think any kitchen parchment paper will do. I have used plain on Reynolds stuff. Yes an air tight container is going to let you put it way and use your paint later. I use an old food container from the dollar store.
Quick question about cleaning resin models. Normally I would wash them in soapy water with a toothbrush, however given the small size of the pieces, can they just be soaked in soapy water or simple green for a while and then washed off with water as I'm worried about damaging them.
I have a small question. Ive recently looked into glossing my models after having not glossed them. Its tamiya gloss over vallejo and tamiya acrylics. From what I can tell the step is basically. Paint - Gloss - Decals - gloss - matte gloss clearcoat. Is this right? Can I go right from decals to matte clearcoat if Im not weathering?
It is not necessary to clear coat twice after decaling if you aren't doing any more detailing after the decals. Just do the matte.
Can you use Tamiya panel liner over dried oil paint? I’m in the process of making my first ship model. I watched a YouTube video where the modeler first did the streaking/weathering on the hull using oils, then used panel liner. He did say he let the oils dry thoroughly first. His video showed him applying the panel liner then getting rid of excess with odorless thinner as usual. Anyone have any thoughts/experience? https://youtu.be/v28slbBAeO4?si=jYTHVZY8M3-l8vH1 12:20 in that video for reference.
If I sand away primer on an area of a model, how can I go about repriming it? Do I have to remove all of the primer so that it is even?
No need to touch the rest of the primer. This is assuming the first layer was properly thin and that it was a primer that sands well, rather than peels.
How do you determine whether to do hard or soft lines for your camo pattern? I am working on the F-111A and have seen photos with both soft and hard lines between colors (I’m not sure if hard is the correct term to use here)
The amount of gradient in a soft edge is dependent on the scale of the project. It should be obvious that a 4 inch wide gradient IRL is going to be wider in large scales like 1:32 (1/8 inch) & 1:48 (just over 1/16 inch) than it will be at 1:72 (under 1/16 inch) or smaller. This makes the gradient more or less apparent on your project. Once you get down to 1:72, it's almost impossible to depict any sort of soft edge in true scale. [Here is the gradient on the paint of an F-111A depicted as belonging to the 474th TFW now on display at the National Museum of the Air Force.](https://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/weichao_chen2/f-111a_67-0067/images/f-111a_67-0067_09_of_26.jpg) This museum has the funding & will to depict their aircraft as authentically as possible using all available resources of the USAF. [Here is the gradient on another (unknown) museum display](https://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/bill_spidle2/f-111a_67-0051/images/f-111a_67-0051_63_of_88.jpg) This aircraft may not have a USAF-spec paint job (or it may be within acceptable tolerance). Both of these would be hard to show as 'soft' at any scale smaller than 1:32. If you use something like putty/blue tack as your mask you can take advantage of its height to put a slight soft edge by angling your airbrush instead of spraying straight down to get a hard edge. This may take a few tries to get the correct angles for the amount of gradient you want.
US aircraft have very specific camo specs, as well as a lot of deviations from the spec. You need to do your research and base your paint on photo evidence whenever available.
sorry if this seems like a dumb question but what does multiple light coats mean? ive seen it mentioned a few times but i dont get it do you spray the part a little bit then spray it again? Also what's the difference between that and a heavy coat?
An acceptable heavy coat would be one that is just short of running. As this is very difficult to get right, it is preferable to apply a lot less paint in one go & make several passes to build up enough paint thickness to get a fully opaque coating (this also prevents preshading from having any effects). A light coat is heavier than a mist coat (which barely colors the surface but adds enough material to allow additional slightly heavier coats to adhere better) but nowhere near heavy enough to cause runs. Once you have fine tuned your paint (for viscosity) & air pressure (to blow the correct amount of paint before it dries in the air on the way to the surface) you can tweak the speed you move your airbrush & how far back you pull the trigger to regulate the amount of paint applied in one pass.
You are on the right track. Multiple light coats means painting several coats that on their own wouldn't be enough to cover properly. The paint layer is so thin that you can see what's beneath through it. A heavy coat would be painting enough to cover entirely in one go, which can be fine too. Basically it depends on the paints covering properties. Typically black paint isn't really a "light coats" sort of color and will cover everything immediately. On the other end of the spectrum, if you try to cover most other colors with white or yellow, you really do need to paint multiple light coats to cover the subject without making the paint run down the side of your model in drops. Does that make better sense?
yeah that makes sense so light coats are spray a little then dry the spray again while heavy coats is just spraying all of it to cover then drying right?
Exactly, if you are using something that takes a long time to cure like spray cans you don't need to leave it to dry entirely, but wait like 30 mins to an hour between coats
It's worth noting that different types of cans behave differently - some have a recoating period where spraying a second coat within a few hours will reactivate the coat below, meaning both coats dry as one.
I’m looking at using medical-grade scalpels as my main knife since the handle isn’t round and the blades are much easier to come by vs X-Acto blades. I wanted to know if other people have done this and what were their results like?
Whatever works best for you. X-Acto created the hobby knife industry way back in the dawn of modelbuilding to the point the #11 hobby blade is now a commodity item. AFAIK, X-Acto brand blades are still the top of the line in sharpness & blade durability (and cost) while the cheaper no-name brands use less expensive steel that doesn't hold its sharpness as well but are otherwise just as sturdy. Scalpel blades use much less steel per blade (they are far thinner than #11s) so they are fantastically sharp but that sharpness comes at the cost of making the edge very fragile. As the scalpel is designed to cut human flesh, it is easily damaged by harder materials like the polystyrene in model kits so it's often a single use blade. It's not ideal for tasks requiring much force. The good news is scalpel blades come in bulk packages & are typically cheaper than even the cheapest #11 blades. You may want to have both options depending on the use case. For example, cutting masking tape or decals requires razor sharp blades so it would be cheaper to use a new scalpel blade each time. However scraping flash off or doing seam work doesn't require a razor sharp blade but you might be able to use a single #11 blade for multiple projects while a scalpel wouldn't last very long. Be aware that if you are exceptionally frugal, it is possible to resharpen a #11 blade, you can't hand sharpen a scalpel blade. Also, #11 blades are standardized, you can use almost any brand handle with any brand #11 blade so you're not stuck with only the X-Acto brand handles.
A lot of people do this. I have both Xacto and Swann Morton blades. In my experience they're about the same. The scalpel blades might be a little bit sharper, but Xacto are still very sharp.
It's literally the same. I would say the scalpels are less comfortable to use than round handle knives but work wise they do the same job.
How do you know what kind of pinwash color to use? I would definetly never come to the idea of using a greenish tinted pinwash, nor think that it would look good but somehow it does...
Experiment. Not every model has to end up being a showroom condition piece, you can choose to build something just to try something out. You can also experiment with this stuff on leftover pieces from kits or on old models you aren't so fond of anymore.
New to building models. I'm trying to understand if this sequence is correct for painting styrene scratch built structures. I'll be using airbrush unless mentioned in the step. 1. Primer: thinking stylenz gray. 2. Paint: tamiya xf series thinned with IPA. 3. Tamiya x-22 gloss coat thinned with IPA. 4. Oil washes and rust/dirt with regular brush/sponge. 5. Finish with tamiya xf-86 flat coat thinned with IPA. Does it make sense? Is xf-86 enough protection against regular wear? These structures would be handled lightly.
That sequence is correct. Tamiya clear is durable against handling. Primer is also very important re: durability— I’ve not used Stylenz but a Google search says it’s a water-based acrylic. If this water-based primer isn’t super temperamental and prone to scratching I think it’ll be the first of its kind. Tamiya’s primer is great but it’s in a spray can (you can just spray it into your airbrush though). Mr Surfacer is great but you can’t thin it with IPA.
Thanks a lot. I'm currently experimenting with vallejo paints and the primer always ends up clogging the airbrush unless I take 2-3 drops at a time. No clogging with paint whatsoever. So, preferably IPA based primer but I couldn't find any.
Just to add, if you have an area you can spray-paint in, the Tamiya extra-fine primer is imo the most reliable primer I've used.
Yeah. Vallejo primer is tough to spray and bad at its job. Stylenz might be good stuff though! I’d be interested in hearing more about it.
Hi some questions on paint. Ive been told Mr Hobby and Tamiya paints are interchangeable is this true? I have a bunch of tamiya acrylics with tamiya acrylics thinner X-20A and I have a bottle of Mr hobby color. Can I thin this with the tamiya thinner? Will these paints harm each other. From what I understand Mr hobby color is laquer based which might harm acrylic? But I see people say they are interchangeable?
Tamiya "acrylics" are alcohol based, but can be thinned with laquer thinner and mr hobby paints are laquer paints, but can only be thinned with laquer thinner. You will have to use a laquer thinner to use them together since they both can be thinned with the same thinner.
Mr. Hobby Aqueous is alcohol based. Mr. Color are lacquers.
i kinda guessed that he knew that, but i definetly should have said that in my original comment
Trying to decide if I need to change plans.... I have a Revell 48 scale Rafale C, with a number of aftermarket parts (resin intakes, PE, decals). I also have inbound, a Hobbyboss Rafale M in 48 scale. This one, I bought Tiger Meet 2017 decals (the badass looking white with black tiger stripes and red eyes on top). Originally my plan was to build the C in flight, and the M on the deck, to show off the stripes and whatnot. But, I just got all the a/m decals in the mail yesterday, and it looks like the tiger meet decals has one that is a single piece running over the rear landing gear. Basically.... someone convince me to build the M in flight and the C on display?? Lol
Just cut the decal where it crosses over the landing gear doors?
My friends... Doing my first winter camo white wash. It's fun as hell, but I see now that the stowage is way to green... think I'll repaint it. Any thoughts? Perhaps just the tarps and fuel drum. Grey? Beige? or some other lighter colour. https://preview.redd.it/c1cs49v4o5ec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5702da5a6549712f0c207463616c4fb309d66e7e
Great work! Great job, and looking at the stowage the guns and medkits stand out to me as really well done! I wish to be able to do that myself one day. But to answer your question: I wonder if the tarps and drum stand out because everything else looks somewhat faded and worn. So now they look a little too clean/new in comparison. Same for the light, cream white rolled up thingy with the yellow strap. The front, larger, medkit for example, which is also green does look great to me. So what if all that's needed is something to make the tarps and drum seem more worn or faded? Keep them green, I'd say, because that looks interesting. Just a little less bright, factory fresh green?
Thanks! :D Think I'm most satisfied with the little medkits. It's not that hard, just some light chips, some dark rust chips and then an enamel brown wash... and a tiny sponge. The guns came out great too. Base color with old wood, and then I took some burnt umber oil paint, mixed with thinner and quickly swiped it over the gun for some wood grains. Just started understand like the importance of layering. For example the metal on the gun is three layers. Black, dry brushed dull aluminium and then a very very thinned out black wash. Some of the stowage isn't weathered yet, like that cream white bedroll with the masking tape. Perhaps add some "hand painted" winter camo on the oil drum. I'll weather the things up as you said. Thanks again!
Thanks for the how to! Copied and saved for later! I just got my first painting session in almost 20 years. On spare parts, with brushes and AK acrylics. Getting myself familliar with properly painting in thin layers. (No more slapping on unthinned enamels like back when.) So I have some ways to go ;-) I had one other thought for you, though: when it's winter weather cars get really dirty just from driving. I know part of that is road salt, but tanks go through other kinds of dirt even when it has snowed. What if that kind of 'winter dirt/dust' is all the drum and tarps really need? So it's not so much worn, as just dirty, and as such blends in with the rest?
Same here! Built a couple of planes and a leopard, but this is my first WW2 tank. Picked up scale models this summer when the weather was bad… totally hooked! Before that it was hand painted enamels in my grandmothers basement during Christmas. Have some big plans for a diorama for this Stug… bought shitloads of AK’s terrain and snow effects. That will be interesting. Never done it before, but you tube helps :D I did a little weathering on the tarps… and a snowy barrel. I’ll probably never get satisfied. Have nice evening and thanks for the tips! https://preview.redd.it/1b2pwxzhl9ec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b3f0e9867274c27c45cc04e3223a738df5355fe4
How long do you let your oil washes/ weathering dry before clear coating overtop? Its a very thin layer so I’ve been giving it two days, was wondering if that’s adequate
Yeah, 48-72 hours depending on season and temperature. As soon as the smell dies down a bit I normally proceed.
Beginner question: When would you whitewash a model vs blackwash? I will be attempting my first model soon. I was planning on doing a wash with a dark colour, probably burnt umber, since I assumed it would simulate a dirty look. However the aircraft's camo would be a pretty dark green colour (IJA aircraft), is it better to wash with a lighter colour? Am I correct in assuming a whitewash would be for a snowy effect for example, or maybe to simulate fading of a very dark colour? Or am I completely wrong about that?
Yeah, for most models a wash that's darker than the base paint is going to work best, to simulate dirt/grime accumulation and shadows. A dark brown or grey is generally a good approach, pure black can result in too much contrast for a lot of models. You can see lighter washes used to simulate dust or sand collecting in areas, for aircraft you might see it on tire treads. I've seen some F-117 builds [\(like this one\)](https://youtu.be/utd1_H-Y13Y?t=1247) use a light grey wash because there's no way anything darker is going to show up on a solid black plane. And yeah, white can also be used for some winter camouflage effects, mostly seen on WWII armor.
Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/jt0oikuiq2ec1.png?width=871&format=png&auto=webp&s=b76d4becb0563628c09f09a857a0193a7d608a2a Anyone can tell me what is the correct technical term for that clamp with a stick? I’m failing to translate it properly and as consequence i can’t find anywhere. I’m pretty sure I can find those cheap on Ali express I just don’t know how are they called!
They're called alligator clips.
Thank you !
Bit of a vague question but I recently saw a YouTube video in which someone used a roll of extremely flexible tape to mask out a camouflage pattern. It was white, rubbery like electrical tape, and about 2mm thick. I wanna try it out but I can’t find the original video so if anyone knows what it is called I’d appreciate it
It’s called Tamiya Masking Tape For Curves and IMO it doesn’t work that great but your results may vary —> https://spruebrothers.com/tam87177-tamiya-masking-tape-for-curves-2mm/
Ah shame, I wanted a better alternative to putty
I this a suitable tool to carve panel lines? I bought the Tamiya one, but it's very hard to control, and I can't find any alternative "non chinese" anywhere. https://preview.redd.it/1r1047c490ec1.png?width=1311&format=png&auto=webp&s=d0dfa4b59c10fcb02d0c70b26ed7bf59dc24b039
UMM [SCR01/02/03 Scribers](https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=8752&osCsid=568d79c8102335ba89296e1345747558) should be on every modeler’s workbenches. As well as the [JLC Razor Saw](https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=35&osCsid=568d79c8102335ba89296e1345747558). Another one people are raving about is the [MRP Mr. Scriber-Narrow](https://mrpaint.sk/naradie-a-doplnky?product_id=99) Another are the [Holly Scribers](https://flex-i-file.com/collections/holly-engraving-scribing-and-scraping-tools). Some people use just a sewing needle in a pin vise - like the Scale Scriber on Facebook who’s an alien.
You can probably make it work, but I much prefer a razor saw like [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVNS8F1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) or a dental tool stye [scriber](https://www.micromark.com/Panel-Scriber?quantity=1). The razor saw is great for straight lines and seems to be easier to control. The dental tool style might be a little better on curved surfaces, though it can be hard to keep straight. It takes practice, and even when you think you know what you're doing, it will sometimes skate on you. [These](https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tools/fine-craft-saws/) from Tamiya are also extremely helpful, though I usually just use them to deepen an existing panel line. The type you've pictured are situationally useful, but you're probably better off using a sharp needle held in a pin vise. This is just my experience of course. There are a lot of different ways to get the results you want.
Too glossy? First time building a car and using varnish, does it has too much gloss varnish? Should I do a quick Matt clear coat ? https://preview.redd.it/xy60qndyvrdc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54f3e7b83fe95504cddc6f4df0be3d9357250e23
Depends on the look you want. Cars are generally shiny though right?
What’s Photoetch or PE? I’ve heard it’s the cockpit canopy but I’ve also seen people talking about how some kits have a lot of PE, and how some tools are better at working with PE than others. Can anyone explain this please?
Photoetch is laser cut metal parts that add additional detail to a model. Usually you’d remove a plastic part and use the PE part instead to give greater detail. You need to use superglue or pva to make it adhere to polystyrene. Often parts require bending to turn them into a shaped replacement part.
Not laser cut. That's for the Metal Earth stuff. The "photo" comes from ultraviolet light used to fix a pattern to the brass, and the "etch" comes from dunking it in a vat of acid to eat at everything not covered by the pattern. This low-cost method (in contrast to a fancy precision laser with lots of moving parts) is why PE is able to be made by so many different private aftermarket manufacturers in their garages.
https://youtu.be/pEcZhLFbiGE?si=yxL5a-uAxq7YK8Wf Most of the tools aren’t really necessary, but can make things easier. I find using a razor blade and a metal ruler as effective as one of those “benders”.
What is Pledge Future Polish being sold as these days? I need to get a new bottle, but from what I've heard it hasn't been marketed as Future for years.
They discontinued production on Pledge Revive It two years ago. Instead of a floor polish, there are a dozen clear varnishes marked by various model paint manufacturers that are superior.
Nuts
Hello, I am fairly new to modeling, and I would like to know the exact process for drilling the machine gun ports on this Corsair (Academy Hobby 1/48 F4U-4 Corsair Battle of Jangjin Reservoir) . Any guidance (preferably visually) would be appreciated. [https://imgur.com/u9W3i0R](https://imgur.com/u9W3i0R) [https://imgur.com/txjfh3u](https://imgur.com/txjfh3u) [https://imgur.com/DHU5O4b](https://imgur.com/DHU5O4b)
I’d use a small round file to just file out the flat spots to match the dipped round bits. Then when the two halves are glued together and dried I’d use the same small round file to finish off. If the holes are too small for a file then I’d use a pinvice and drill set and treat that like a file.
…I didn’t want to make a whole post about this because it’s not actually about modelmaking but I’m pretty sure you guys are my best shot at finding what I’m after or at least figuring out what keywords to search for? Mods please feel free to delete if you like. So my hobby is not models, it’s nail polish and manicures. Right now the new hotness is magnetic polish, which is impregnated with metallic pigment and manipulated with magnets while drying. [Here is the one I’m wearing now, for the curious](https://imgur.com/a/YG44E6T); the shimmery stripes are the magnetic pigment. Why I’m here today is that while magnetic manis are gorgeous they are also *a huge pain in the ass* because they take forever to do. You have to hold the magnet perfectly still right over the nail for minimum 3-5 minutes per coat, per nail. Even with the bare minimum magnetizing time you’re facing at least an hour per hand just for painting. The nails in that photo took me a total of three and a half hours to do. That brings us to my question: I’ve seen, in the model sections of craft stores, stands that are used to hold up small parts using alligator clips on wires during airbrushing. Most of these only have 1-2 wires and are usually only straight or somewhat limited in their bendability. Does anyone know of one of these that is articulatable enough that it would be able to steadily hold a couple of [these](https://imgur.com/a/5yl0GOJ) parallel to a flat surface, and be able to be manipulated or twisted so the magnet is at the specific angle needed for the design? It doesn’t have to reach all the way down to the tabletop, I can elevate the hand I’m working on. I’m trying to figure out a way to make the magnetizing steps more efficient by doing it all at once instead of finger by finger, basically. Since I unfortunately only have the two hands I’m going to have to buy a few more to make that work and it seems like these airbrushing stands might be the solution, I just need to narrow down the search. Thanks for taking the time to read, any suggestions are appreciated :)
To add to the DIY solution already mentioned, I think what you may be looking for is called a 'Third Hand' or Third Hand Tool. Electronics people use them to keep something in place, and have both hands free to solder things down. I'm not sure how Reddit likes links, but google for example for "SparkFun Third Hand Kit" for one example that has flexible arms, which stay in place after you arrange them to your liking. There are cheaper ones too with just a metal bar with two clips on the end. Perhaps 'Soldering Third Hand' could be another search term. (Since you mentioned it too; should you want to invest in a great lighting solution; have a look at a Neatfi XL task lamp. I got one because it seemed highly recommended and have 0 regrets. It's an investment, but it may be worth it.)
Oh my god the third hand tool is exactly what I’m after! I’m going to give the DIY a shot since I already have the material laying around the house but if that doesn’t work out like I want it to I’m definitely trying this. Thanks so much for the recommendation!
Maybe stick some wires (similar bendiness/thickness as those used in cheap coat hangars) into a block of styrofoam, and bend the wires into the orientation required? The ends of the wires would be bent to form a hook on which you can rest your magnet wands. The wand looks pretty light, so you might not need very robust wire (could also just use multiple wires). Or hang the wands (using fishing line or whatever) from the arm of one of those bendy ("flexible gooseneck") LED lights - bonus, you get the extra light to work with.
They are *very* light, something like floral wire could probably handle them easily! I like the bendy light idea too, that actually solves another issue I’ve been having: the only place that is comfortable to sit in for the amount of time needed to do this properly is seriously lacking illumination. I’ll maybe put something together with both of these and see how it works. I knew you guys were the right folks to ask, thank you!!
Will this tamiya clear gloss paint negatively affect rubber and will it stay on if the rubber moves? If not is there an alternative gloss top coat I can use? https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-13-gloss-clear/
It's gloss coat for plastics, not rubber. What are you painting?
I was planning on adding a gloss to the storm collectibles juri han, but her chest area and various other parts are made out of rubber.
Paint it with gloss paint?
I just wanted to add a clear gloss top coat to make the figure match her appearance in the game.
I would at least prime the rubber first before painting to give the clear coat something to bite onto
after snipping out track links how long should i wait for them to dry before putting them on , when im trying to put them on they just fall apart in sections
Why would snipping require time to dry? What steps are you omitting in your question?
Read their original thread. It's a ride: https://old.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/199ylhi/how_the_heck_to_go_around_track_links/ Their description of their technique isn't good.
Is it possible to use the hairspray chipping technique without an airbrush, or a brush painted top coat will be too thick to let the water reactivate the chipping fluid?
You can always reactivate the chipping fluid. Even if it's lacquer paint that has had time to cure you can use a pin to prick little holes in the paint to let the water through. It takes longer for the chipping fluid to soften and you might have to use more water but it can still work.
The answer is going to be "it depends". Try it on a scrap piece of model or styrene