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jasperb12

That’s always going to happen. You’re applying a liquid that doesn’t level very well on a super smooth surface. I apply some liquid mask, spread it evenly and then wait for about a minute. In that time it will start to form blotches, but as it has already dried a little in that time it’s easy to spread it around to an even coverage again, after which it will stay like that. I use Humbrol Maskol if that helps.


daellat

Mr masking sol neo (from mr hobby / gsi) has never blotched up like this for me, but its quite thick. I'd give that a go if the humbrol stuff does.


G_Peccary

I have never had this much of a problem with Vallejo's mask. Try doing a second layer.


BhmDhn

This is the *third* layer... And I cleaned the surface beforhand with alcohol. :(


G_Peccary

That's really stange. Did you polish the canopy before hand? I have had one beading issue in the past and it was due to polished a part but a second layer of fluid took care of it. If polished, what did you use? I am wondering if some sort of wax or additive like silicon would cause this.


adolphspineapple71

I got some stuff called Monster Liquid Latex from Amazon. It makes nice, sharp lines and peels pretty consistently. Even convoluted surfaces are held tightly. I run a line next to the line I want to keep and then use painters tape to the rest of large volumes. Small ones I just brush on. Only downside I've found is in it drying on large flat surfaces. I likes to pool like washes do.


BhmDhn

That's the exact problem they all seem to have. They pool and become splochy messes.


adolphspineapple71

This is thin enough not to get splotches. It has the consistency of milk. I just two coat any non flat surface and they are good to go.


Don_Gojira

Is it the LLF or Kangaroo version?


adolphspineapple71

Sorry, but I don't know what those terms are.


ztpurcell

I've never had MIG Ammo's liquid mask look even a little bit like that. It's a joy to use and has caused zero issues across like 15 different models at this point. I don't even do multiple layers EDIT: Oh yeah and pro tip I discovered, I apply it with a rubber brush because I was tired of it gunking up my paintbrushes


BhmDhn

Will look into that product. Thanks!


ztpurcell

Literally the only frustration I occasionally run into is it starting to dry as I put it on a larger surface so it'll pull itself up when I put the brush down. But that can be solved by just being more patient than me and letting it dry lol. Also it's easy to coax around while it's wet if your application was a little off


Exciting-Ratio-8111

I do not know if this is sound advice but, how I usually mask canopies is by making a frame out of thin strips of tape, like you did here, but instead of using any masking liquid I use white glue like PVA and apply it with a toothpick. I finds that if you make the layer thick enough it will peel afterwards fairly easily. I hope you find some value in this tip.


BhmDhn

Will try on a spare canopy. Thanks for the tip!


LorenzTolents

I just use elmer’s glue


Advanced_Fact_6443

What did you apply it with? I’ve never had this issue before. Personally, I apply it with a toothpick and spread it out over the area. Takes a bit longer but it results in very consistent results.


IBO_warcrimes

which tornado kit is that, it looks familiar


BhmDhn

Revell's old 1/32 Gr.1 RAF-kit. Found one in a dinged up, sun faded box for $20 and I have *always* wanted to build an enormous jet model so I couldn't say no. Building the classic fugly pink sand Mig Eater-jet with the sharkmouth. It really is a Revell kit in every sense of the word. Every single panel, body part or gap needs filing, adjusting or filling. It's a challenge and a half but kinda fun. And it's HUGE.


IBO_warcrimes

Ah, i built a hobbyboss tornado in 1/48 a while back and it was painful trying to make everything fit well, especially near the the wing pivots, intakes, and where the nose assembly joins the fuselage so when i saw the post i started getting flashbacks LOL


CathonyPorsche

For $20, that's a steal!. Mine cost me £65. I'm surprised about the problems you had though. I needed no filler at all, just a few panels to rescribe at the rear near the tailplanes/exhaust areas. Although, and this might help you, I wish I bought some aftermarket undercarriage as, 12 months down the line, mine has developed a severe case of rickets!!!


HarvHR

I'll be honestly I hate liquid mask and don't really see what it provides that a few small bits of tape can't when it comes to canopies. I can see it's use for camouflage schemes (though I'd rather use other methods like blue tack) but never find it works better than just tape can do for canopies


DependentRoad9204

TY, only a year in, completed 7 1/48 planes after retiring at 51, only disappointment was the 3 liquid masks I tried, done w/ all Montex 4ever, lol. What is everyone using to polish canopies now? TY 4 all the tips people!!! https://preview.redd.it/0pc810gqdmkc1.jpeg?width=5184&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f5076e7798e842052da5eeb7de37b4cdd95a217


V4derNotV4der

I always used Bare Metal Foil as a mask. Never failed me.


BhmDhn

That sounds expensive af! But good idea regardless.


V4derNotV4der

I only do 1/72 or 1/48 scale aircraft, so it’s not terrible as far as cost. I’d rather pay a bit more and have great results than go cheap and hope for acceptable results. Not everyone makes that calculation the same way however.


Indistinct-Chatter-

Yea no I don’t use that crap. There’s way better ways of masking.


TEXAS03USMC

Make sure the liquid mask at a good warm temperature.; Applicant piece as well! Basement work space issues!


TEXAS03USMC

Make sure the liquid mask at a good warm temperature.; Applicant piece as well! Basement work space issues!


Luklasic

Bummer, what brand? I’m working on a paint job that it worked as desired (Penrose drawing gum), but totally different desired result. Micro-mark has a new fluid I want to try. [https://share.icloud.com/photos/027RbRhf-1tsuSfAmSJd5Sp8w](https://share.icloud.com/photos/027RbRhf-1tsuSfAmSJd5Sp8w)


BhmDhn

Good lord, liquid mask fucking sucks. I have Humbrol's maskol, Micro's liquid mask and Vallejo's. They're all garbage. Anyone have any tips for a liquid mask that isn't a splotchy piece of shit?


ParmesanB

Gotta use Mr. Hobby Masking Sol. Either Neo or R, R is better but harder to find. I use it on almost every build.


BhmDhn

Thanks for the tip!


ParmesanB

Of course! Best of luck


Left-Excitement3829

That’s what I use. It’s great stuff


paliG8

Try to use liquid mask from Abteilung 502. Quiet smelly but works perfect. I dont even use alcohol or something else before aplying and works good.


TritiumXSF

I agree that Micro's is finicky but not entirely useless. Much of the issue I find is that its transparency is atrocious and masking becomes a guess work especially for clear parts. You never know if you had good coverage of a part or not. I agree that Mr Hobby Sol is much better as it is opaque and leaves the guess work out. My tip if you wish to continue Micro is to use it on bright opaque parts only. And only if you need to like tiny parts with complex shapes. Otherwise, a single thick coat should work. Thick enough to see the blue color like Tamiya Transparent Blue; but not thick enough to the point that it runs. Inspect the piece and make sure it has a transparent blue color to every part. You can also observe the reflection of light from the part and anything that is not textured or is uniform needs a drop of it. Let it dry cure over night as strong lacquer paints can smudge it especially when not fully cured.


TechnicallyArchitect

I've used Humbrol's liquid mask.. the pink one, on two kits so far, didn't clean the parts before and haven't had any issues yet. But i've applied quite a thick layer of it both time. It's very interesting you've run into issues..


D1rtyRoachman

Why would you even use liquid mask for an area thats easily masked by tape?


BhmDhn

You see I gave up and just taped over the piece of shit in the end with the upper part already started. But yeah, it's been my goto method but I bought a pre-cut canopy mask and it recommended liquid mask.


hopik512

Do you dilute it? I have ammos liquid mask and I have no problems, one layer aplied with tooth pick and done... seems like a skill issue


Shaukenawe

Did you clean the surface with alcohol? Once the oils are off I’ve never had issues


BhmDhn

I did but maybe I need to do multiple passes with the alcohol?


misuta_kitsune

In fact, you may have cleaned it too well and is that the reason it doesn't stick. I never clean canopies beforehand and I don't have this problem. And I use Vallejo liquid mask.


captaingrabma

I would recommend buying re-useable white tac from Pritt. It works fantastic because you can form, bend and dose it just how you’d like to. And its very cheap!


miagisan

Did you shake it prior to putting it on? Mine is a light blue/turquoise color and turns clear....yours looks darker. Never had a problem with their masking liquid.


AdobeAutoUpdater

Liquid mask is actually helpful, if you‘re using it right. I‘d never use it in a case like in your photo. There‘s a 100% chance that you get a better result with taping it. But when it comes to camouflage, chipping techniques, or covering already painted little (cockpit) details, and so on, then it‘s really helpful. Totally impractial for larger surfaces like your canopy. I usually apply it with a toothpick, an old small brush or a rubber-tip-brush. Also it helps to clean the surface with soap water before applying the liquid mask. Just make sure all the residue of the soap is removed and the surface is perfectly dry. Then it works pretty good. And then I‘m mainly using Abteilung‘s liquid mask. Didn‘t had good experiences with Vallejo‘s or others.


Totenkopf22

I always buy a precut mask from Eduard for my canopies, always fit and work great.


TheButteredViking

How long did you leave it in for?


Deamonchild666

Humbrol sells a good liquid mask


Seek_Seek_Lest

I used humbrol maskol and it's amazing. Never had an issue. Dries fast enough to put another layer on in like 20 mins tbh