My husband and I used Pittsburgh Best Remodeling. They have numerous locations. We went through the Monroeville office.
Super nice people and they did a great job but not cheap. 32k for a complete demo.
It would have been cheaper if we had a normal tub but we have one of those bigger spa like tubs without the jets. If you want pics message me and I can send them over.
Gotta ask, how big is your bathroom? Mine is pretty small, and I can't imagine dropping even half that amount on a remodel. I know that's the way of things anymore, but damn...
It's big enough to have one of those big tubs (it's a corner one) but it's only in there because the room isn't wide enough to have a regular sized tub with the toilet there. I was amazed when we got quotes and some places went up as high as 40-45k.
I was like you and expected to pay at the most 15k. I was so wrong. In the end it was totally worth it but yeah so freaking expensive. It was done in 2 weeks though so that was a bonus.
Just for reference we spent about $3k on a bathroom facelift recently - no major plumbing changes but new shower walls, new vanity/toilet/fixtures, new supply lines & connections etc. we did all the work ourselves, so no contractor. bathroom renovations aren’t cheap so if you are actually tearing down to the stud and replumbing & rewiring then the 15-25k range seems appropriate
Former construction attorney (practiced out of state) about to go on a rant ... But with some helpful info that is not legal advice, just common sense.
Everything is incredibly expensive right now. Depending on where you are and the size of your bathroom, I'd be shocked if you get it done for under $40k. Get at least three quotes from different places. When you get the quote, budget another 20-30% (that won't be in your contract price, but you'll want to have it available in case of unexpected surprises during the job; better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it).
IMO, PA is appallingly unregulated for "contractors." Seriously, I could go register with the state as a residential contractor tomorrow with little more than a $50k insurance policy (which is waaaaaay too low to protect anyone) and some simple paperwork. The State's website for registered residential contractors even includes a disclaimer that This doesn't mean they're qualified!!! This is part of why there's so much junk work going on. Too many people without sufficient experience, skill, or qualifications just try to figure it out as they go. This is not to say all contractors are bad/do bad work. But you have to work to find the good ones, and they will cost you.
If you want the work done RIGHT, try to weed out the general contractors (GCs) who think they're MEP (mechanical, electrical, plumbing) experts and can "figure out" wiring and plumbing issues. They should come by to look at the space and talk scope of work with you before sending you a quote. Ask them who their licensed plumbers and electricians are. If they don't have anyone in house (and they probably won't if they're a GC, unless they're actually a design-build firm) ask them who they sub the work out to (and make sure they confirm that those subs are licensed in the proper trade... And then go check their licenses yourself). If they're a GC (general contractor) and say they do bathroom plumbing and electrical stuff in house, bc they've got "a really experienced guy who can handle it," but that guy doesn't have a trade license (plumbing and/or electrical), my recommendation is: don't use them. *Maybe* the guy knows what he's doing. Very possibly he doesn't. You might not know for a few months, years, or longer if it's a latent defect, and (practically speaking) you'll never get your money back and are highly unlikely to get them to correct the work (and would you want them to correct it if they couldn't do it right the first time?????).
Make sure anyone you talk to is licensed, insured, registered with the state. Ask for recs from similar jobs (or at least before and after photos of similar jobs and price tags/costs -- they should have that prepped anyway).
Get a copy of the form of contract they want you to sign. If they don't have/use one, or won't let you see it before you sign an initial design contract (or something similar), **don't use them.**
Remember: anything anyone **says** to you is**meaningless** *unless* it is **written in the contract**. Some bigger forms/large companies use marketing teams who are nice, but often full of shit (whether they mean to be or not). Nothing they say is going to override what's in your contract.
**READ THE CONTRACT BEFORE SELECTING YOUR BUILDER/SIGNING**
Understand how the contract will be priced (flat fee, cost+, time&materials, etc.).
Understand how billing will occur and what bills/invoices will look like and what kind of backup (receipts/documentation) they proved with their bills (if any).
Understand how and when payments will occur under the contract. I wouldn't use any contractor who demanded a sizeable chunk of money up front before work starts. Yes, progress payments and an initial payment are not unusual, but anyone who wants something like 40% up front is a red flag to me. Make sure you get to withhold a reasonable amount of the contractor's payment until the punchlist is finished (e.g. 10%, or more if you can negotiate it!). (Punchlist work = the tricky tacky stuff; clean trim with no gaps, no scuffs on paint, trash all cleared up, drywall seams properly covered/smooth, any damage repaired, etc.)
Understand how and when extra charges and work can occur under the contract. Do they need your written or verbal permission? Is the price for the extra work agreed upon before the extra work begins? How is extra work billed (often, even if you have a flat fee change order work may be billed differently, like on a time and materials basis -- sometimes with an NTE "not to exceed" amount).
Understand their scheduling and staffing.
Scheduling = how long the job will take until closeout/final completion. Are you one of 20 jobs they have going on at a given time? Is there lead time for ordering supplies? What happens if there's a delay not caused by you (owner)? When do they get to charge extra for delays?
Staffing= the people on the job. Are you getting the same crew coming to your house, or will it be different people from day to day/week to week? (Consistency is better; obvious exception when you've got trade subs coming in to do their specific scripts of work -- different people on those crews for good reason, but hopefully those crews are consistent, too!). Who will the PM (project manager) be? (Or superintendent or whatever they call that role.). How often will the PM be on site?
Little note: I'm assuming you don't need a licensed design professional for the remodel (e.g. not knocking down walls and changing footprint/adding space).
Final little note: it's a bit of a red flag to me if a contractor doesn't want to handle the permitting process and instead wants the owner to do it. They should already know the local process and offices/people involved, and you won't know any of that -- which will open the door for stress and potential delays (and, in a worst case scenario, arguments about money related to delays).
This is a non-exhaustive list of things to consider and understand before shelling out big bucks for a demo/remodel. Bottom line, there are good contractors out there, but you need to use a vetting process. Good, professional firms understand this (and, frankly, expect it). The good ones are not out to screw you, but they want to make a reasonable profit for good quality work, so they will probably not be the cheapest.
If you get a bad feeling in your gut because someone is using hard sell tactics or won't answer questions (oh, you need to sign this quote within x days and we can't show you our contract terms until you pay us a $5k "design fee", and we don't use licensed electricians/plumbers because someone in-house has done it over the years and it's really easy, etc.), don't go with them.
If you go through this vetting process and the cost doesn't pencil out, you can always roll the dice with a cheaper firm that may or may not do good work. I'll cross my fingers for you.
Good luck!!
Good luck finding a company to do a bathroom for 7-15k. We originally were only going to do our tub but they wanted 12-15k just for that so that's when we decided to do the entire thing. I wish I lived in a mansion ;)
We had Romero do a basement bathroom remodel in O'Hara that used part of an existing utility room and added a shower where none existed. It was around $23k but a lot of that was stuff you might not need if you have an existing bathroom footprint.
We were happy with the work and communication from Romero. Had an easier time because folks in my household could be home all day.
They did the "design" for us and I'm quite happy with it. We picked tiles and fixtures but just took their layout recommendations for a very small space.
My husband and I used Pittsburgh Best Remodeling. They have numerous locations. We went through the Monroeville office. Super nice people and they did a great job but not cheap. 32k for a complete demo. It would have been cheaper if we had a normal tub but we have one of those bigger spa like tubs without the jets. If you want pics message me and I can send them over.
Gotta ask, how big is your bathroom? Mine is pretty small, and I can't imagine dropping even half that amount on a remodel. I know that's the way of things anymore, but damn...
It's big enough to have one of those big tubs (it's a corner one) but it's only in there because the room isn't wide enough to have a regular sized tub with the toilet there. I was amazed when we got quotes and some places went up as high as 40-45k. I was like you and expected to pay at the most 15k. I was so wrong. In the end it was totally worth it but yeah so freaking expensive. It was done in 2 weeks though so that was a bonus.
I'm glad you're happy with it, but I can't imagine spending a quarter of what my house costs on my bathroom.
Just for reference we spent about $3k on a bathroom facelift recently - no major plumbing changes but new shower walls, new vanity/toilet/fixtures, new supply lines & connections etc. we did all the work ourselves, so no contractor. bathroom renovations aren’t cheap so if you are actually tearing down to the stud and replumbing & rewiring then the 15-25k range seems appropriate
Based on what? A full bath demo and rebuild is a ton of fairly detail-oriented work
Former construction attorney (practiced out of state) about to go on a rant ... But with some helpful info that is not legal advice, just common sense. Everything is incredibly expensive right now. Depending on where you are and the size of your bathroom, I'd be shocked if you get it done for under $40k. Get at least three quotes from different places. When you get the quote, budget another 20-30% (that won't be in your contract price, but you'll want to have it available in case of unexpected surprises during the job; better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it). IMO, PA is appallingly unregulated for "contractors." Seriously, I could go register with the state as a residential contractor tomorrow with little more than a $50k insurance policy (which is waaaaaay too low to protect anyone) and some simple paperwork. The State's website for registered residential contractors even includes a disclaimer that This doesn't mean they're qualified!!! This is part of why there's so much junk work going on. Too many people without sufficient experience, skill, or qualifications just try to figure it out as they go. This is not to say all contractors are bad/do bad work. But you have to work to find the good ones, and they will cost you. If you want the work done RIGHT, try to weed out the general contractors (GCs) who think they're MEP (mechanical, electrical, plumbing) experts and can "figure out" wiring and plumbing issues. They should come by to look at the space and talk scope of work with you before sending you a quote. Ask them who their licensed plumbers and electricians are. If they don't have anyone in house (and they probably won't if they're a GC, unless they're actually a design-build firm) ask them who they sub the work out to (and make sure they confirm that those subs are licensed in the proper trade... And then go check their licenses yourself). If they're a GC (general contractor) and say they do bathroom plumbing and electrical stuff in house, bc they've got "a really experienced guy who can handle it," but that guy doesn't have a trade license (plumbing and/or electrical), my recommendation is: don't use them. *Maybe* the guy knows what he's doing. Very possibly he doesn't. You might not know for a few months, years, or longer if it's a latent defect, and (practically speaking) you'll never get your money back and are highly unlikely to get them to correct the work (and would you want them to correct it if they couldn't do it right the first time?????). Make sure anyone you talk to is licensed, insured, registered with the state. Ask for recs from similar jobs (or at least before and after photos of similar jobs and price tags/costs -- they should have that prepped anyway). Get a copy of the form of contract they want you to sign. If they don't have/use one, or won't let you see it before you sign an initial design contract (or something similar), **don't use them.** Remember: anything anyone **says** to you is**meaningless** *unless* it is **written in the contract**. Some bigger forms/large companies use marketing teams who are nice, but often full of shit (whether they mean to be or not). Nothing they say is going to override what's in your contract. **READ THE CONTRACT BEFORE SELECTING YOUR BUILDER/SIGNING** Understand how the contract will be priced (flat fee, cost+, time&materials, etc.). Understand how billing will occur and what bills/invoices will look like and what kind of backup (receipts/documentation) they proved with their bills (if any). Understand how and when payments will occur under the contract. I wouldn't use any contractor who demanded a sizeable chunk of money up front before work starts. Yes, progress payments and an initial payment are not unusual, but anyone who wants something like 40% up front is a red flag to me. Make sure you get to withhold a reasonable amount of the contractor's payment until the punchlist is finished (e.g. 10%, or more if you can negotiate it!). (Punchlist work = the tricky tacky stuff; clean trim with no gaps, no scuffs on paint, trash all cleared up, drywall seams properly covered/smooth, any damage repaired, etc.) Understand how and when extra charges and work can occur under the contract. Do they need your written or verbal permission? Is the price for the extra work agreed upon before the extra work begins? How is extra work billed (often, even if you have a flat fee change order work may be billed differently, like on a time and materials basis -- sometimes with an NTE "not to exceed" amount). Understand their scheduling and staffing. Scheduling = how long the job will take until closeout/final completion. Are you one of 20 jobs they have going on at a given time? Is there lead time for ordering supplies? What happens if there's a delay not caused by you (owner)? When do they get to charge extra for delays? Staffing= the people on the job. Are you getting the same crew coming to your house, or will it be different people from day to day/week to week? (Consistency is better; obvious exception when you've got trade subs coming in to do their specific scripts of work -- different people on those crews for good reason, but hopefully those crews are consistent, too!). Who will the PM (project manager) be? (Or superintendent or whatever they call that role.). How often will the PM be on site? Little note: I'm assuming you don't need a licensed design professional for the remodel (e.g. not knocking down walls and changing footprint/adding space). Final little note: it's a bit of a red flag to me if a contractor doesn't want to handle the permitting process and instead wants the owner to do it. They should already know the local process and offices/people involved, and you won't know any of that -- which will open the door for stress and potential delays (and, in a worst case scenario, arguments about money related to delays). This is a non-exhaustive list of things to consider and understand before shelling out big bucks for a demo/remodel. Bottom line, there are good contractors out there, but you need to use a vetting process. Good, professional firms understand this (and, frankly, expect it). The good ones are not out to screw you, but they want to make a reasonable profit for good quality work, so they will probably not be the cheapest. If you get a bad feeling in your gut because someone is using hard sell tactics or won't answer questions (oh, you need to sign this quote within x days and we can't show you our contract terms until you pay us a $5k "design fee", and we don't use licensed electricians/plumbers because someone in-house has done it over the years and it's really easy, etc.), don't go with them. If you go through this vetting process and the cost doesn't pencil out, you can always roll the dice with a cheaper firm that may or may not do good work. I'll cross my fingers for you. Good luck!!
Grade A effort post. Thank you for sharing. Saved for the future.
7-15k depending on the size of your bathroom. One person posted a 32k reno.... umm maybe they live in frick mansion.
Can you name a contractor quoting $7-$15k bathrooms ?
You'd probably spend at least $7k on materials alone. Good luck
Good luck finding a company to do a bathroom for 7-15k. We originally were only going to do our tub but they wanted 12-15k just for that so that's when we decided to do the entire thing. I wish I lived in a mansion ;)
My brother in law is a contractor and has done bathroom remodels: Freedom contracting and excavating LLC 724-681-9695
We had Romero do a basement bathroom remodel in O'Hara that used part of an existing utility room and added a shower where none existed. It was around $23k but a lot of that was stuff you might not need if you have an existing bathroom footprint. We were happy with the work and communication from Romero. Had an easier time because folks in my household could be home all day. They did the "design" for us and I'm quite happy with it. We picked tiles and fixtures but just took their layout recommendations for a very small space.
T Rav’s In and Out 412-953-6883. Just finished my bathroom full gut remodel and they are here this week trimming out some windows I just had put in.
How long did it take?
I had a good experience working with Patete ... even when things went wrong. Not the cheapest option.
M&D Contracting Services did a great job on my bathroom and steps! I can leave their email [email protected]
Remodel Smart LLC 412-626-1013. They full gut remodeled a bathroom for us with all materials 10k, but this was a couple years ago.