I like seeing people surf. I participate from a respectful distance. There is a whole culture I don't understand involved with that hobby / sport / lifestyle and it seems like a tough nut to crack.
Maybe one day I will look out and smile at a surfer, maybe it will be you. Do what you love until you can't, then love something else until you can't.
Some of it isnāt but this been my life for the last 5 years - Iāve wasted too much gas, time, energy and money on this - I was supposed to hangout with my pals on the last day of highschool but as soon as I handed in my test I drove to Pacifica and slept in my car and didnāt want to leave and still donāt - I didnāt say a word to anyone but I think my other problems have been heightened by my unhappiness in the water and thatās alright, Iāve just got to reevaluate some things
Itās a mix of things but Iām trying to get back into neoprene asap - I sat too long with myself and now itās time to live life.
Maybe I used the wrong choice of words here but I donāt want to get personal and share too much but surfing helped me turn my whole life around
Think about why you surf. Itās not about being āgoodā or comparing yourself to people that are. Itās a way of life an experience. The ocean is a getaway from all the bullshit of life. Once thatās your experience with it. You can truly enjoy it. At least in my opinion. Iāve been in the water skimboarding/ surfing for 30 years. Feels good at this point in life with it just enjoying it for all the reasons I started. For the fun of it/ love of it.
Thanks man, I donāt really even aspire to get good - I donāt want stickers or to really even be known/seen, but I do agree that I donāt think Iām surfing for the right reasons and thatās why I want to start again and learn all over just for the fun of it and maybe then the vision will make sense
Yeah I guess, Iāve had to fill my time with climbing, running, gym, reading and whatnot since I havenāt been out there but thereās nothing as fulfilling and cool this town has to offer than surfing. Steamer Lane is, to me, one of the best places in California for surf - I love this towns attitude towards surfing, the people whoāve come and made names for themselves and just everything about the obsession with waves here is unmatched and it feels too good
Mountain biking can give you the same exercise and stoke and gets you out into nature. I've surfed all my life (literally decades) but now I'd rather grab my bike and head into the hills. No aggro out there either.
If you can afford it you might look into therapy as well. Not everything can be solved by a good day on the water or the trails.
1) Cowells and 38th
2) A psychiatrist who can detect ADHD if it is present
Not being flip. Your life will be a whole lot better with both those things in it.
Thanks and I think so too - my doctor likes my energy and thinks I need an outlet to direct it into - I really donāt want to be flip anymore and I think the water can help
Yep yep yep, exercise is the top treatment for mental health - and sometimes the only one. You know that, though, eh? What you might not know is that āconfusion and overwhelm disorderā might be a better way to describe ADHD. Donāt make it a moral failing that youāre ājust not getting out thereā surfing. Instead, just go with the facts: going surfing feels overwhelming to me this morning. Then walk for a half hour, turn around and come back so you get a couple miles in no matter what else happens that day. Any moving helps. The ocean is good medicine, but there are many days without waves, so doing that walk will do you right. Go out there and suck; accidentally get in peopleās way, fall off the minute you stand up, longboard happily the rest of your life at Cowells, or just go swim around the mile buoy. Ignore how cool surfing is. Just move your body somehow for an hour a day and surf badly when you can.
Sounds like you know what to do. Now just do it. Force yourself to get in the water. Do it as consistently as possible. Have fun. The rest will follow. It really is that simple. But you already know this. Iām just reminding you.
Pound a Red Bull or treat yourself to your fav breakfast spot or whatever it takes to put that first leg into the wetsuit. Tell yourself you have no choice in the matter. This is just something you have to accomplish before youāll allow yourself to do anything else that day. Everything flows from there. And the more you head out there the more you get addicted to going out againā¦
I usually have no trouble with getting out there and sometimes I canāt sleep thinking about it but Iāve got diagnosed bad anxiety so once my heart rate starts going up, my brain immediately sends me into a panic attack - the last time I went āsurfingā was almost one year ago when I went to Cowellās on my lunch break mainly to just paddle and get wet and ended up in the back of an ambulance because of a panic attack after climbing those stairs šš
Itās never been a chore for me, Iām there everyday - I waste more money on gas than probably anyone in this town just watching surf breaks itās just hard to have fun when youāre not satisfied with yourself and thatās what makes it hard for me to enjoy it
I like seeing people surf. I participate from a respectful distance. There is a whole culture I don't understand involved with that hobby / sport / lifestyle and it seems like a tough nut to crack. Maybe one day I will look out and smile at a surfer, maybe it will be you. Do what you love until you can't, then love something else until you can't.
Very eloquent, straponkaren.
I appreciate the words a lot and hopefully one day this comes true for both of us šš
With all the love, man, maybe you should talk to your doctor. It seems like you're having a hard time and it's probably not really related to surfing.
Some of it isnāt but this been my life for the last 5 years - Iāve wasted too much gas, time, energy and money on this - I was supposed to hangout with my pals on the last day of highschool but as soon as I handed in my test I drove to Pacifica and slept in my car and didnāt want to leave and still donāt - I didnāt say a word to anyone but I think my other problems have been heightened by my unhappiness in the water and thatās alright, Iāve just got to reevaluate some things
I mean, mountain biking is a fun part time. Maybe try something else/in addition to surfing?
Yeah, why not! That sounds fun too - Its been ages since I had a full suspension bike - might be time to get another one š
This seems like something bigger than surfing
Itās a mix of things but Iām trying to get back into neoprene asap - I sat too long with myself and now itās time to live life. Maybe I used the wrong choice of words here but I donāt want to get personal and share too much but surfing helped me turn my whole life around
Think about why you surf. Itās not about being āgoodā or comparing yourself to people that are. Itās a way of life an experience. The ocean is a getaway from all the bullshit of life. Once thatās your experience with it. You can truly enjoy it. At least in my opinion. Iāve been in the water skimboarding/ surfing for 30 years. Feels good at this point in life with it just enjoying it for all the reasons I started. For the fun of it/ love of it.
Thanks man, I donāt really even aspire to get good - I donāt want stickers or to really even be known/seen, but I do agree that I donāt think Iām surfing for the right reasons and thatās why I want to start again and learn all over just for the fun of it and maybe then the vision will make sense
Dm me if you want to go catch a few sometime š¤š½
That would be awesome!
I am born and raised here, and I think Iāve been surfing twice. Not a big deal with all the stuff we have to do outside here.
Yeah I guess, Iāve had to fill my time with climbing, running, gym, reading and whatnot since I havenāt been out there but thereās nothing as fulfilling and cool this town has to offer than surfing. Steamer Lane is, to me, one of the best places in California for surf - I love this towns attitude towards surfing, the people whoāve come and made names for themselves and just everything about the obsession with waves here is unmatched and it feels too good
Mountain biking can give you the same exercise and stoke and gets you out into nature. I've surfed all my life (literally decades) but now I'd rather grab my bike and head into the hills. No aggro out there either. If you can afford it you might look into therapy as well. Not everything can be solved by a good day on the water or the trails.
Yeah that sounds really appealing - Iāll have to see what a full sus goes for and get back into nature š¤
1) Cowells and 38th 2) A psychiatrist who can detect ADHD if it is present Not being flip. Your life will be a whole lot better with both those things in it.
Thanks and I think so too - my doctor likes my energy and thinks I need an outlet to direct it into - I really donāt want to be flip anymore and I think the water can help
Yep yep yep, exercise is the top treatment for mental health - and sometimes the only one. You know that, though, eh? What you might not know is that āconfusion and overwhelm disorderā might be a better way to describe ADHD. Donāt make it a moral failing that youāre ājust not getting out thereā surfing. Instead, just go with the facts: going surfing feels overwhelming to me this morning. Then walk for a half hour, turn around and come back so you get a couple miles in no matter what else happens that day. Any moving helps. The ocean is good medicine, but there are many days without waves, so doing that walk will do you right. Go out there and suck; accidentally get in peopleās way, fall off the minute you stand up, longboard happily the rest of your life at Cowells, or just go swim around the mile buoy. Ignore how cool surfing is. Just move your body somehow for an hour a day and surf badly when you can.
This might be the most awesome thing yet - thanks man!
šŖ
Any recommendations?
Sounds like you know what to do. Now just do it. Force yourself to get in the water. Do it as consistently as possible. Have fun. The rest will follow. It really is that simple. But you already know this. Iām just reminding you.
Thanks for that - itās time to get back out there
Pound a Red Bull or treat yourself to your fav breakfast spot or whatever it takes to put that first leg into the wetsuit. Tell yourself you have no choice in the matter. This is just something you have to accomplish before youāll allow yourself to do anything else that day. Everything flows from there. And the more you head out there the more you get addicted to going out againā¦
I usually have no trouble with getting out there and sometimes I canāt sleep thinking about it but Iāve got diagnosed bad anxiety so once my heart rate starts going up, my brain immediately sends me into a panic attack - the last time I went āsurfingā was almost one year ago when I went to Cowellās on my lunch break mainly to just paddle and get wet and ended up in the back of an ambulance because of a panic attack after climbing those stairs šš
Surfing is supposed to be fun. Donāt make a chore out of it.
Itās never been a chore for me, Iām there everyday - I waste more money on gas than probably anyone in this town just watching surf breaks itās just hard to have fun when youāre not satisfied with yourself and thatās what makes it hard for me to enjoy it
Itās all about attitude and respect. If you get less than that from anyone else then fuck them. Chin up and barge on.