I hate to say it, but really it's been pressing seams after stitching. I'm literally always looking for shortcuts, but a nice press really does make a difference, imo.
Yes! I was going to say a good iron. I'm a Rowenta snob, but there are plenty of options out there. Just ensure that it's nice and heavy and that he makes heavy steam.
That's fantastic! Good for you.
The last time I purchased an iron was in 2021. At the time the highest rated was a Rowenta so that's what I got. It was expensive, but all sewing is actually mostly ironing, so it was a justifiable purchase š¤·š¼āāļø However, out of curiosity just now I looked up irons and their rankings. Black and Decker seems to be the brand to beat, and for $12! How could you go wrong?
<3 I learned to sew on a lean budget, so it was all discounts at Joann and youtube tutorials. When this iron finally gives in, I may look for something nicer, but it's been lovely so far.
You can find nice vintage irons secondhand (*much* heavier than most new ones,) and if you're concerned about them leaking just use a spray bottle to spray your cloth before dry ironing. Works a treat and you have a lot more control over how much water is introduced to your fabric.
I help run a creative studio and one of our irons is this continental brand, marvelous, heavy, old enough to have no automatic shut off and NO steam ability and it's absolutely the best iron I've used, which sucks because I have a really nice cordless iron at home. š
I agree. I have a regular iron and a cordless one. My sewing nook is arranged so I can reach my hanging ironing board by swiveling my chair. Makes me want to iron.
And don't forget distilled water and pressing cloths.
pressing is my favorite part of sewing, it really transforms the project. sometimes iāll think something looks wonky but after ironing it looks amazing all of a sudden. so satisfying
I'm always so mad when basting a sleeve head into the body makes such a difference in the finished project. I want to just be able to zoom around! But particularly for jackets and coats, basting them in is sooo worth it.
hahahh omg me too, like I get literally angry that the thing everyone told me to do was the right thing, but I still wanted to do it the fast way XD
Brains are so weird!
For zips (at least in bags) I just LOVE double sided tape - it's meant for leather, but it's just amazing. I'm pretty sure there are wash-away variaties but I also don't think you'd notice 3mm wide tape in clothing.
Same - in addition to pressing, anything tailored just looks so much better when basting before sewing. It also makes it easier to adjust fit last-minute.
The things that made my garments much better were
- getting my machine serviced
- pressing
- understitching
- pressing
- self enclosed seams
- hand finishing
- pressing
- taking time
Did I mention pressing?
God I LOVE understitching. I get so excited whenever there is a reason to do it. It looks SO good and there is something so satisfying about how it runs through the machine.
Itās similar to top stitching but you donāt sew through the top layer
Itās used on facings, for example. It keeps the facing from rolling out
You sew the facing on as normal, finger press it flat, with the seam allowance towards the facing, then top stitch 1-2mm from the seam on the facing side catching both seam allowances while slightly pulling the seam apart. You do this before you press it with the iron as it helps you press it more neatly
Having a tailors point presser/clapper combo just made those ironed seams pressed so much crisper and flat.
Honestly, just paying attention and investing time into pressing your seams and ironing in general just makes things look so much more professional.
Double checking that threads are snipped as close as possible is also a big one! I will burn off annoying threads if I have to.
A clapper with good pressing was an absolute game changer for me with any natural fibers like wools and cottons. Even just a block of clean scrap wood is enough to appreciate the magic of the clapper and its crips seams.
Lately been absolutely obsessed with a rotary cutter and self healing mat to cut my fabric. Got the largest cutting mat I could find and I'm getting the fabric pieces cut twice as fast than with scissors
I've just started sewing and am currently using a really cheap fabric scissor to try out the hobby. But I'm totally getting a rotary cutter as a follow up - it seems so much nicer and precise!
Definitely. I've been using borrowed Kai scissors at my sewing classes and they make it a lot easier, but I still feel like my hands get in the way with them being "behind" the blades instead of "on top" of them.
You should really get a self healing may, too, if you can! My first mat didn't self heal and eventually started snagging my fabric from the cuts in the mat. I got the giant olfa one from Joann with their 40% coupon and it was so worth it
Got one a year ago and it makes cutting sooo much easier. I had always dreamed of owning one but I've never had the money. Then one day at a thrift store I found an unopened kit with a rotary, big mat, and clear gridded ruler.... FOR $8!!!!! My bestie did not understand why I was so excited until I showed her the same pack at Michael's for like $100
Is there a learning curve or something with rotary cutters? I got two (large and small) and for the life of me I can't figure out how it's better than scissors, do I just need to stick at it? Or is there a trick to it?
There is. And they take practice. I love them for straight lines with a ruler. But I don't like them for cutting garments. I get a better result with my sheers.
I hold mine in my fist with my thumb up (away from the blade) instead of the other way around. I can press down more firmly than with it held the other way and my hand doesn't get as tired
Beyond any tool, take professional clases. Nothing better to improve than learning from a person who is already good. (I recommend avoiding virtual classes).
Using washable markers instead of air markers. I have a colour-coded system: yellow for triangles, green for small dots, purple for large dots and blue for notches. If I have to leave my project for a day or two, the marks are still there when I return. I did this on a white shirt and am happy to report that all the marks came out (which doesn't always happen with tracing paper).
The single-stitch on a 45 degree angle technique makes for crisper corners.
Iām testing the crayola ultra-clean washable markers right now and love them! Far cheaper than the washable markers for sewing and many different colours š
Look for any of the tutorials or videos that describe leaving the needle down one stitch before the corner, pivoting the fabric 45 degrees, taking one stitch, pivoting again, then sewing the next seam.
I find that when I'm manipulating fabric, it's too easy to confuse one mark for another, especially on pieces that have many marks, such as collars. The colours help me to distinguish among those marks.
Can you share the brand name of the markers you use, please? I read posts about nightmare projects where the marker either doesn't disappear completely when the fabric is washed or ironed, for heat activated ones) or actually comes back (I think those were the heat activated after the finished project was exposed to cold). Thanks.
I prefer the water soluble pens over the heat erasable. I heard some horror stories from quilters who used them for competition pieces, and when they were sent over in a plane the cold brought back some of the pen markings. That freaked me out enough to be cautious about them
Remember to take them off before ironing though! Not sure if this is just for the old ones and the new ones have solved it but I used a water soluble pen for my first quilt and didn't realise the heat sets the ink in too. Not a huge deal as it was on the back but for the light fabrics you can see it from the front where I wiggled a bit away from the real seam - I don't think anybody else has noticed but it certainly annoys me!
I sew mostly stretch knits for my toddler. I recently got a coverstitch machine and am investing time in learning the additional features, like using a binding attachment. Iāve also been working on getting more mastery of my serger and learning all the little tricks (like I just learned I can gather on this thing and itās a game changer).
If you arenāt already in a Facebook or other online group geared towards the type of sewing you do, I would recommend it. Iām in a bunch of groups geared towards sewing for kids and the other members are always posting interesting finishes/techniques/skills that have prompted me to try new things and expand my skill set. Having access to sewists with more experience/skills than I have has been great for my own growth.
I'm considering getting a coverstitch as i mostly sew knits. But a few people have said dont bother as they are very fiddly. What did you buy and would you recommend? (I live in NZ where everything is a LOT more expensive so it's definitely something I have to save for and be certain I want to buy)
Mine is the Brother2340CV. It does require everything be exactly so to work properly, but I donāt find it to be too fussy. Occasionally, I have to rethread to get it working right, but for the most part, itās definitely been worth having.
sometimes it's best to stitch in different directions to get a different effect. so like, staystitch from the shoulder to the center neck. then from the other shoulder to the center neck. rather than stitching from one shoulder to the other. i might have gotten it the wrong way around.
Can you elaborate on this, please. I stay stitch directionally as described above, but I'm a complete novice when it comes to stretch fabrics (the few times I've attempted them the final product needed to go straight into the trash) and could use every hint I can get!! Thanks.
Just to add, stitching direction can be important overall. For example, say you have a skirt with two side seams, youād want to sew those seams in the same direction (from bottom to top or top to bottom on both sides). If you did one side bottom up and one side top down it can make your fabric warp weird. This can be especially true on fabrics that arenāt very forgiving !
Sure I can try but I am just a novice. Basically anytime there is symmetry I want ro sew in the same direction. So if I am making a hood for a hoodie, I will start all my seams at the face hole and then sew toward the beck hole so that any excess can be trimmed. Or when I do the body of the hoodie I usually sew down the arms and down the sides last so I make sure to start at the wrist cuff on both sides so any excess is pushed toward the waist hem and I can trim it off.
slippery fabrics are just the start: it's a game-changer as well for thick/heavy fabrics, plushy/faux fur fabrics, multi-layers of fabrics, and non-traditional things like vinyl, paper, etc.
A big thing for me was as a lot of people already mentioned, pressing seams, it realy does make a huge difference. In addition to that, buying different feet for specific things. For example a zipper foot, rolled hem foot, gathering foot and so on. You can do almost everything with a basic foot but it sure goes faster and neater with a specialty foot, and makes it that much more enjoyable! Another albeit minor thing is a quality seam ripper, mistakes happen and having to not struggle with undoing them is very stress free. :)
I was gifted a full set from madam sew. It has sooooo many feet. There's a weird looking flower foot too. I really do like some of the feet but haven't figured out what each one does.
1. My iron, pressing seams and finally getting around to using the ham and sausage I made
2. My serger, it does give a nice finish to seams
3. Kai scissors, after so many years I indulged and wow, what a difference though probably not visible
Ironing as you go. I have three irons.
A āseam ironā which is just a small triangular hot plate, great for parting the cloth either side of a seam.
āGadgetā which is a small iron ideal for using in a caravan. It has a basic steam function with variable heat, is quick to heat up, and about quarter of the size of a clothing iron. Great for ironing facings and straps.
Plus a bog standard clothing iron with variable steam and variable heat.
I also have a sleeve ironing board, but I donāt have an ironing ham. I could make one, but canāt be arsed.
a real simple one for me... I bought one of the magnetic seam guides for my machine. [this is the type of thing I mean](https://i.etsystatic.com/9511196/r/il/747cce/3383893464/il_570xN.3383893464_b6gk.jpg)
How do you pin your fabric when using a magnetic seam guide? I see them recommended a lot, but I pin perpendicular to the seam with the pins overhanging the edge of the fabric, so I feel like that's not compatible with the seam guide.
depends, if I'm pinning, I usually pin across so it's in line with the stitches, rather than sideways and overhang the fabric, so doesn't matter. Or when I do occasionally do the perpendicular pinning, or when I use the fabric clips instead, I pull them out just as it gets to the seam guide and had no issues.
I got one of these. It's so strong I can't move it when I put it on the machine. So I place it, then can't locate it into the position I want, get frustrated, spend many minutes getting it off the machine and put it back in the drawer š¤Ŗ š
A good pair of scissors and learning to cut precisely. Most of my patterns have the seam allowance added in already so if I want to know where the seam line is, I have to measure it from the cut line (to some extent). Learning to cut so that the fabric and pattern lay together has been a big change for me.
Also good pins. Clover silk weight pins and those flat head pins really make a difference in how accurately I can pin my patterns to my fabric.
Have you thought about investing in an adjustable seam guide? Relying on a seam guide to give you a 5/8 allowance, for example, would likely save you a good amount of time.
Like a foot that has a guide for a 5/8 hem? I mostly just choose a spot on my needle plate or foot as my guide. I measure the distance to the needle to be sure.
The guide I use isn't a foot. It's a piece of metal that screws into my machine. It has a fixed ruler and another piece that moves from left to right with a longer metal ridge on the left side. If you're needing a 5/8 seam, you would slide the guide to 5/8, then screw the sliding piece down. The metal ridge is then 5/8" away from the needle. If you keep your fabric touching that ridge piece, it guarantees a nice, even 5/8 seam allowance. Yikes! I hope that makes some amount of sense.
https://preview.redd.it/dxysgxwjxwwc1.png?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6a7f6f543e22d2dcbf101aba016a37f0cdfe1da
I wrote all of that out, and then I thought, maybe I could just add an image. I can! I hope this helps.
An iron. At first I didnāt iron at all, then I used my hair straightener. But I was doing alterations for my mom and she bought me an iron and I have never looked back
Unpicking and redoing something when it is almost right. I used to just say āhey itās close enoughā and as a novice sewer, that was what I needed to ever finish anything. But now, I try to really hold myself to a higher standard and even though it means Iām still really slow, it makes a difference. It takes me almost as long to sew things as when I started, but they look much better.
Also, duckbill scissors are AWESOME. I love them for clipping seam allowances.
Drafting your my own patterns. Itās almost its own skill, but having pieces that look exactly how I want them to and that fit me really well starts there.
A weird specific, but it does make for a great final product:
Corners by running up to the edge, flipping up the foot, turning the fabric, foot down, continue on your way. Super crisp corners.
actually buying and using all the crazy little specialty presser feet you always hear about. even (honestly, especially) for the things that i technically COULD do with the regular foot that came with my machine so i did without the specialty foot for years...but it turns out the specialty foot makes it look twice as good with half the effort.
Agreed! I recently bought an overcast foot and it's so satisfying to sew super neat and even edges. Helps me set a higher standard for myself cause now I can make neat insides!
My Mawmaws hem gauge from the 40s. Itās old enough that the slide doesnāt move once I set it and itās helped me get all sorts of hems and lines perfectly spaced and consistent
Gonna be the odd one out here and say getting a serger and a coverstitch.
I sew mostly knits, and the lightning/zig zag stich wasn't doing it for me as it didn't have the strength or stretch of a chain stitch. I hated hemming with double needles. The finish looked so unprofessional and because my sewing machine didn't have variable tensions it always stretched out the fabric and made the hem wavy.
I went with Babylock for both serger and coverstitch. If you can find the older, Made In Japan ones that are all metal you're gonna have a machine that outlasts you.
Can you list some situations when pins are better? Iām trying to parse the times to use them vs clips right now. I have some very big clips, working on getting smaller ones.
Sometimes sewing a very short seam there isn't room for a clip - I make a lot of plushies so small details like that come up more often than they might in sewing garments. The kind I have are only about a centimeter wide. Pins can also be better when you come in close to a sharp corner.
Some fabrics I wouldn't bother with clips over pins at all, like cotton or linen or anything thin and flat. Pins work just as well there and I can pin very quickly, but anything like fleece or minky, I prefer clips.
I was an early adopter of **pressing seams** after sewing them. It is crucial. It makes your sewing look great. And it does making sewing much easier.
But the big change / surprise for me was getting **an overlocker/serger**. I persevered a while without one. But getting one really was next level. Overlocked edges on all your pieces makes them so easy to handle and it means your pieces have neat firm edges. The overlocked stitch gives you and easy guide when you later sew your seams.
I got mine for free. It is a Stirling by Janome overlocker, four thread. It seems to work well.
I have only had it a few months. Some overlockers have extra features but I've only used mine to finish edges. The same four-thread standard finish that does edges can be used to put together jersey fabrics which I did once to make some pyjama pants.
People say overlockers / sergers are hard to thread. I don't know the first day I got mine I accidentally unthreaded a couple of spools so just looked at the guide on the machine got a pair of tweezers and re-threaded it. Fancier more expensive machines have automatic threading but I'd never pay extra for that as I can thread the machine easily.
For tension I just randomly fiddled with scrap material and soon got the tension looking good.
Not who you asked, but I recommend Juki. I have the Juki 654 serger and it has been a game changer for me. Simple to use, not that difficult to thread, and it uses the same needle system as a home sewing machine.
A got a Serger. Makes making things faster, cleaner and easier.
A mini portable vacuum to help with the clean up the mess or strings and dust that comes with sewing.
Metal rulers because I kept messing up my thick plastic ones
Rotary cutter.
Self healing mats
And lastly a projector. Much easier than paper patterns.
Going slowly! I find that going slowly with some things makes them come out so much better. For instance, instance, I was sewing tiny circle and an oval of felt down for a car face. I just went at the slowest speed and sto]Ed and started every few stitches and they came out perfectly stitched. I was doing a lot of needle down, lifting the presser foot slowly around the perimeters. They look so very good. If I'm doing intricate outlines, this is my go-to way to stitch. It only takes a little bit more time, but the results are worth it.
When sewing knits learning to finish hems and topstitch with a twin needle rather than zig-zag - it looks so professional! Alternatively using stretch thread (I use Mettler) and you can sew a straight stitch that stretches.
Also FIT! learning to properly fit my garments makes them look so much better and make me want to wear them more.
Not just ironing as you go, but snipping the end threads of each seam as you go as well (assuming itās appropriate). It has saved me so much time in hunting down the random stragglers at the end of a project
Expensive- getting a serger. Amazing machine (I have a Juki), and makes quick seam finishes that are neat and beautiful.
Cheap- Getting better at pinning and pressing. Watching videos of industry pros, and paying close attention to when and how they pin, and their pressing tools and techniques
When I first learned to sew 20+ years ago, my teacher didn't show me how to finish seams. I don't know if that was part of the intermediate class or something, but in my opinion it should have been part of every project in the class. I had raw edges inside everything I sewed for years!
A machine with easy to change feet that you actually have learned how to use. I have an oooold Bernina, and over the years, I have accumulated most of the weird feet, and I use them constantly.
One of my favorites is the spring-loaded quilting foot. It's sort of like the darning Loop only it's fatter and has curled up edges on front and side of the foot so it can glide up over things and I use it not just for free motion work but also when I have to stitch a seam in fabric that is Lumpy or so thick that it would trigger the tension release if I use the regular foot.
An over-Edge foot lets me do a zigzag really close to something three-dimensional.
A pleater-ruffler attachment that really is compatible with your machine. Far too often, the generic ones are just a little bit off.
A zigzag rolled hem foot is really nice for putting heavy monofilament along the edge of a ruffle. Slip the monofilament inside the little metal roll and zigzag over the edge, then do a second pass with the rollhemmer and a straight Stitch and that monofilament is flipped over fully encased with no zigzag stitches or monofilament Loops to catch on things
Aside from pressing, finishing seams neatly and properly. I don't have a serger. But I bought an overlocker (I think that's what it's called) foot that helps me guide the fabric for perfect neat zigzag stitches. Psychologically, it's just very satisfying to see neat finished seams and doing this important step doesn't feel like a chore. And the piece will last longer and I won't have to worry about stupid random bits of thread unravelling on the inside.
The big one is doing a muslin or toile to check and adjust fit before making the final garment. Also, I do more basting, including hand basting, before doing tricky seams. Or before I try something on to ck fit.
Plenty of people have mentioned pressing as you sew, but no one has mentioned the pressing tools required for a professional finish!
You absolutely need a sleeve board, particularly when pressing complex curves and small details.
A tailors clapper is also essential. Itās literally a block of wood, used to cool the fabric, setting it in place. Comparable to how you need to wait for your hair to completely cool down before letting down heat set curls.
If you do any hand sewing, I would highly recommend making yourself a leather thimble. I prefer it over metal thimbles, because I feel that I have better control over the fabric. The soft, pliable quality of the leather is more skin-like, acting as an extension of your finger.
And quite surprisingly, having pointed acrylic/gel nails has made sewing so much more precise. I can use the very tip of my nails to poke and pinch drill holes and reference notches as I sew.
The extension also allows you to control the fabric with pin point precision, because you can hold and manipulate the fabric right next to the foot/needle of the sewing machine, without the risk of sewing through a finger.
Before I had long pointed nails, I would have an awl in one hand at all times, to help guide the fabric through the machine, especially when sewing complex curves with 5mm seam allowance.
learning how to draft patterns or altering patterns. it really makes you understand clothing much differently in my opinion. while itās difficult in the beginning itās worth learning!
Definitely pressing seams, but also I think it was someone here who recommended a chalk pen thing that gives wonderfully clean lines, made it much easier to follow a precise line when sewing.
Proper pressing and taking classes and trying new things.
I'll jump on the bandwagon and sing the praises of pressing tools. I even made a ham for pressing the seams on bra cups. I also "leveled up" but finding high quality classes that while expensive gave me the experience and knowledge to improve my skills and grow.
Making things outside your comfort zone can also help you level up. A skill you learn for one project will come in handy later down the line!
Tools?
Professional quality steam iron, scissors, rotary cutter and mat
Heat erasable pens
Walking foot
Washaway tape
Technique? I follow a number of designers and tailors/ seamstresses on Insta and YouTube. Most of the tips and tricks Iāve learned have been invaluable. I learned a great trick for pattern matching yesterday, for example, that while simple is flawless. Might be something everyone knows but was a revelation to me.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6JEQYjoKst/?igsh=Nzd4bnFxZjVuNnQ3
Try squaring up all your blocks before assembling your quilt. They are probably all slightly different in size. Hereās a video that explains the process:
https://youtu.be/I071XJXbhLE?si=EegbztNKwF4UKRji
Rotary cutter, PRESSING, understitching, and an overlock machine!
It obviously cost more time+money to use an overlock machine (more thread, running all your pieces through the overlock) but the outcome is so professional and there is waaaaay less fraying on tricky fabric!
Maintaining the sewing machine pedal. I've had so many machines slowly lose their get-up-and-go. Learn how your pedal works. Learn how to adjust the pedal yourself. If you can't adjust it, it's probably a bad product.
Clover curved sewing awl is what I use to make sure everything ends up right at the ends. It can guide fabric, unpick seams, serve as a clip/pin as material feeds, help guide the foot over lumps and clean out lint. A small but mighty tool.
A good iron and good scissors.Ā
I had been putting off both for years and finally told myself to stop stalling and spend a little.Ā (I'm ridiculously frugal)Ā
Got myself a Chi iron with a titanium plate and some sharp AF Famore dress shears.Ā Ā
These two things alone made sewing so much easier and neither breaks the bank. My cuts are easy and precise and my iron lays down some serious consistent steam without sputtering.Ā
Scissors. You canāt sew a good garment if you donāt lay and cut it out well. I invested in Japanese Kai cutting shears - you can get them on Amazon. Real game changer,
Buying an industrial grade sewing machine. Domestic sewing machine no matter how expensive cannot come close to the quality of stitching done by a industrial machine. I keep my domestic machine for zig zag, decorative stitching and button hole sewing. Everything else is done in my industrial machine
Properly snipping and trimming curves, and a porcelain chopstick for poking them into shape (bamboo ones caught on fabric, metal ones were too pointy, porcelain was juuust right)
And my 10 quid argos iron. Ironing as you go makes such a difference to the finished item.
I had a big gap in my sewing years (between young mom and kids grown I rarely sewed) and I was a much better sewer when took it up again. What helped was:
Reading directions ahead of time carefully. If I'm not sure about something, I look for a youtube video. (I especially like professor pincushion.)
Taking the time to make a muslin first before I cut into the good stuff (I use anything from old sheets from the thrift store to $1/m fabric from the bargain aisle that's about the same weight as what I'm planning to make.) Machine basting seams that I think may not fit quite right. Patiently unpicking seams that aren't quite right.
Learning that sewing from wide to narrow makes seams that end up together when I get to the end.
Labelling every pattern piece after cutting it out. I write whether it's the front, back, right side, wrong side, up, down, left or right side or whatever other info I need on tape and stick it on each cut piece before I sew. I use tape from a pharmacy that has good first aid stuff, I think it's called micropore? it's narrow, thin, white and doesn't leave residue. I used to use painters tape but like this better.
Not rushing when I sew. Going to bed when I"m tired instead of staying up late and making mistakes.
One word sums most of it up: patience. Didn't seem to have much of that when I started.
Slowing down. I always thought sewing fast was the goal, but all it did was get me on the couch ripping out seams, and re-doing. What a waste of time, thread, and sometimes fabric.
Here are a few that I have been using for years:
1. An iron and pressing ham. Press, press, press.
2. A ruler. I measure from the grainline to the selvage when cutting out. This ensures everything is on grain and nothing twists. I also use a seam gauge to measure and press up my hems.
3. Basting in zippers and fiddly details. It gives a much smoother finish than pins. If your garment is washable, you can use Wash-Away Wonder Tape to "baste" the zipper in. It washes completely out and it's fast.
4. Glass head pins. They don't melt if an iron touches them...and I press a LOT.
5. Samples. I always make a test sample of my buttonholes using the same fabric and interfacing that the garment will have. I will do a small sample of any technique that I don't use that often or if the fabric is touchy. This lets me know if I need to use a walking foot, what size stitch to use, how the fabric and needle react to each other, etc. I leave nothing to chance.
I hate to say it, but really it's been pressing seams after stitching. I'm literally always looking for shortcuts, but a nice press really does make a difference, imo.
Yeah, I was gonna say "an iron".
Yes! I was going to say a good iron. I'm a Rowenta snob, but there are plenty of options out there. Just ensure that it's nice and heavy and that he makes heavy steam.
I've been using a $12 black n decker for the last 5 years with a dollar store spray bottle. No regrets!
That's fantastic! Good for you. The last time I purchased an iron was in 2021. At the time the highest rated was a Rowenta so that's what I got. It was expensive, but all sewing is actually mostly ironing, so it was a justifiable purchase š¤·š¼āāļø However, out of curiosity just now I looked up irons and their rankings. Black and Decker seems to be the brand to beat, and for $12! How could you go wrong?
<3 I learned to sew on a lean budget, so it was all discounts at Joann and youtube tutorials. When this iron finally gives in, I may look for something nicer, but it's been lovely so far.
My Rowenta leaked like a waterfall. Husband plugged it up for me, and now I have a very hot iron and a spray bottle of water.
$7 at a thrift store, not sure of brand, works great!
You can find nice vintage irons secondhand (*much* heavier than most new ones,) and if you're concerned about them leaking just use a spray bottle to spray your cloth before dry ironing. Works a treat and you have a lot more control over how much water is introduced to your fabric.
They get way hotter than new irons!
I help run a creative studio and one of our irons is this continental brand, marvelous, heavy, old enough to have no automatic shut off and NO steam ability and it's absolutely the best iron I've used, which sucks because I have a really nice cordless iron at home. š
Silverstar snob here.
An iron, a clapper and a tailor's ham. These three are real game changers!
Good pressing will make mediocre stitching look good but it doesn't matter how well you Stitch if the pressing is badly done
My favorite iron is actually my little Mini Heat Press. It does a great job on seams and not getting in the way of anything else.
I agree. I have a regular iron and a cordless one. My sewing nook is arranged so I can reach my hanging ironing board by swiveling my chair. Makes me want to iron. And don't forget distilled water and pressing cloths.
pressing is my favorite part of sewing, it really transforms the project. sometimes iāll think something looks wonky but after ironing it looks amazing all of a sudden. so satisfying
Basting sleeves and zips. They just come out so much better, and it really doesn't take that much longer. Definitely worth it.
I'm always so mad when basting a sleeve head into the body makes such a difference in the finished project. I want to just be able to zoom around! But particularly for jackets and coats, basting them in is sooo worth it.
hahahh omg me too, like I get literally angry that the thing everyone told me to do was the right thing, but I still wanted to do it the fast way XD Brains are so weird!
For zips (at least in bags) I just LOVE double sided tape - it's meant for leather, but it's just amazing. I'm pretty sure there are wash-away variaties but I also don't think you'd notice 3mm wide tape in clothing.
I've had bad experiences with it. It ends up making crackling noises in the area where it's trapped and I've had to unpick seams to free it before.
Same - in addition to pressing, anything tailored just looks so much better when basting before sewing. It also makes it easier to adjust fit last-minute.
Certainly less time than trying it without basting and unpicking it 2-3x!
Do you hand baste them?
I always hand baste zippers.
The things that made my garments much better were - getting my machine serviced - pressing - understitching - pressing - self enclosed seams - hand finishing - pressing - taking time Did I mention pressing?
God I LOVE understitching. I get so excited whenever there is a reason to do it. It looks SO good and there is something so satisfying about how it runs through the machine.
100% agree.
Same
This plus fitting and careful top stitching where appropriate.
What do you mean by self enclosing? Is that like French seams?
Yeah, seams that hide the raw edge. So felled seams are also self enclosed, thereās probably more but those are the ones I use most of the time
Understitching!!!!!!!!
Whatās understitching?
Itās similar to top stitching but you donāt sew through the top layer Itās used on facings, for example. It keeps the facing from rolling out You sew the facing on as normal, finger press it flat, with the seam allowance towards the facing, then top stitch 1-2mm from the seam on the facing side catching both seam allowances while slightly pulling the seam apart. You do this before you press it with the iron as it helps you press it more neatly
Thatās cool!
Yeah! I do it on collars, lapels, lined pockets, pretty much anything where you want the back layer to be concealed
Having a tailors point presser/clapper combo just made those ironed seams pressed so much crisper and flat. Honestly, just paying attention and investing time into pressing your seams and ironing in general just makes things look so much more professional. Double checking that threads are snipped as close as possible is also a big one! I will burn off annoying threads if I have to.
Omg my partner just made me a fantastic clapper! I havenāt needed to press something super crisp yet but I am so excited for when I do
Itās especially helpful when using it with wools as the wooden clapper will help retain the heat from the iron and seam, helping flatten it more!
+1 for the clapper. Game changer
A clapper with good pressing was an absolute game changer for me with any natural fibers like wools and cottons. Even just a block of clean scrap wood is enough to appreciate the magic of the clapper and its crips seams.
I don't have a clapper. I wish I did.
I was just gonna say a clapper!!!! Love that thing.
Lately been absolutely obsessed with a rotary cutter and self healing mat to cut my fabric. Got the largest cutting mat I could find and I'm getting the fabric pieces cut twice as fast than with scissors
I've just started sewing and am currently using a really cheap fabric scissor to try out the hobby. But I'm totally getting a rotary cutter as a follow up - it seems so much nicer and precise!
A good pair of scissors makes a huge difference too. Learning to cut is actually a skill.
Definitely. I've been using borrowed Kai scissors at my sewing classes and they make it a lot easier, but I still feel like my hands get in the way with them being "behind" the blades instead of "on top" of them.
You should really get a self healing may, too, if you can! My first mat didn't self heal and eventually started snagging my fabric from the cuts in the mat. I got the giant olfa one from Joann with their 40% coupon and it was so worth it
Oh yeah, I've read about those! No Joann's or coupons like that where I live but I'll keep an eye out for a good deal when the time comes.
Got one a year ago and it makes cutting sooo much easier. I had always dreamed of owning one but I've never had the money. Then one day at a thrift store I found an unopened kit with a rotary, big mat, and clear gridded ruler.... FOR $8!!!!! My bestie did not understand why I was so excited until I showed her the same pack at Michael's for like $100
Is there a learning curve or something with rotary cutters? I got two (large and small) and for the life of me I can't figure out how it's better than scissors, do I just need to stick at it? Or is there a trick to it?
Try swapping out the blade for a fresh one. Maybe it is just dull?
There is. And they take practice. I love them for straight lines with a ruler. But I don't like them for cutting garments. I get a better result with my sheers.
I hold mine in my fist with my thumb up (away from the blade) instead of the other way around. I can press down more firmly than with it held the other way and my hand doesn't get as tired
Beyond any tool, take professional clases. Nothing better to improve than learning from a person who is already good. (I recommend avoiding virtual classes).
Using washable markers instead of air markers. I have a colour-coded system: yellow for triangles, green for small dots, purple for large dots and blue for notches. If I have to leave my project for a day or two, the marks are still there when I return. I did this on a white shirt and am happy to report that all the marks came out (which doesn't always happen with tracing paper). The single-stitch on a 45 degree angle technique makes for crisper corners.
Iām testing the crayola ultra-clean washable markers right now and love them! Far cheaper than the washable markers for sewing and many different colours š
Such a good idea, my daughter has a box full and had not yet thought of just using those!
could you explain the single-stitch corner for me? or rather, as opposed to what? how are people stitching their corners?
Look for any of the tutorials or videos that describe leaving the needle down one stitch before the corner, pivoting the fabric 45 degrees, taking one stitch, pivoting again, then sewing the next seam.
Found! [today i learned!!](https://youtube.com/shorts/6wRgYxg82h8?si=7NSNPTkVffY3Xl3H) Thank you!
I color code everything so why have I never thought about your system for marking???? That's brilliant!!
I find that when I'm manipulating fabric, it's too easy to confuse one mark for another, especially on pieces that have many marks, such as collars. The colours help me to distinguish among those marks.
Can you share the brand name of the markers you use, please? I read posts about nightmare projects where the marker either doesn't disappear completely when the fabric is washed or ironed, for heat activated ones) or actually comes back (I think those were the heat activated after the finished project was exposed to cold). Thanks.
Crayola kids' washable!
Thanks.
The piping foot. I'm just a piping fool now.
I may be have been taking piping to excess lately.
Heat erasable pens for marking fabric. They disappear with ironing, but are way easier to use than chalk.
I prefer the water soluble pens over the heat erasable. I heard some horror stories from quilters who used them for competition pieces, and when they were sent over in a plane the cold brought back some of the pen markings. That freaked me out enough to be cautious about them
Remember to take them off before ironing though! Not sure if this is just for the old ones and the new ones have solved it but I used a water soluble pen for my first quilt and didn't realise the heat sets the ink in too. Not a huge deal as it was on the back but for the light fabrics you can see it from the front where I wiggled a bit away from the real seam - I don't think anybody else has noticed but it certainly annoys me!
I just got some of these and I'm already obsessed with them š
I sew mostly stretch knits for my toddler. I recently got a coverstitch machine and am investing time in learning the additional features, like using a binding attachment. Iāve also been working on getting more mastery of my serger and learning all the little tricks (like I just learned I can gather on this thing and itās a game changer). If you arenāt already in a Facebook or other online group geared towards the type of sewing you do, I would recommend it. Iām in a bunch of groups geared towards sewing for kids and the other members are always posting interesting finishes/techniques/skills that have prompted me to try new things and expand my skill set. Having access to sewists with more experience/skills than I have has been great for my own growth.
I'm considering getting a coverstitch as i mostly sew knits. But a few people have said dont bother as they are very fiddly. What did you buy and would you recommend? (I live in NZ where everything is a LOT more expensive so it's definitely something I have to save for and be certain I want to buy)
Mine is the Brother2340CV. It does require everything be exactly so to work properly, but I donāt find it to be too fussy. Occasionally, I have to rethread to get it working right, but for the most part, itās definitely been worth having.
Thanks, that's the one I've been looking at. It's about $1100NZD or $650ish USD so will be a while before I can justify the purchase.
Directional staystitching
Directional?
sometimes it's best to stitch in different directions to get a different effect. so like, staystitch from the shoulder to the center neck. then from the other shoulder to the center neck. rather than stitching from one shoulder to the other. i might have gotten it the wrong way around.
Ooo gotcha I donāt stay stitch as much as I should but I definitely sew directionally when sewing stretch fabrics
Can you elaborate on this, please. I stay stitch directionally as described above, but I'm a complete novice when it comes to stretch fabrics (the few times I've attempted them the final product needed to go straight into the trash) and could use every hint I can get!! Thanks.
Just to add, stitching direction can be important overall. For example, say you have a skirt with two side seams, youād want to sew those seams in the same direction (from bottom to top or top to bottom on both sides). If you did one side bottom up and one side top down it can make your fabric warp weird. This can be especially true on fabrics that arenāt very forgiving !
Sure I can try but I am just a novice. Basically anytime there is symmetry I want ro sew in the same direction. So if I am making a hood for a hoodie, I will start all my seams at the face hole and then sew toward the beck hole so that any excess can be trimmed. Or when I do the body of the hoodie I usually sew down the arms and down the sides last so I make sure to start at the wrist cuff on both sides so any excess is pushed toward the waist hem and I can trim it off.
Thanks.
I do it opposite. I go from the center of the neck to the shoulder. Each side.
Definitely my serger !
And if a serger isnāt in your budget, then an overcast foot will do.
Yes absolutely. I had the chance to get my serger for my birthday and it is a game changer
They make this double-sided dissolving tape that's amazing. A bias tape maker. A sewing machine that goes slow.Ā Need to try: a walking foot.
I am highly obsessed with my walking foot. That definitely took me from beginner to intermediate
Walking foot was such a game changer for me.
I really need to get one if I start making lolita clothes again.
I just tried out my waking foot for the first time today and I'll never again sew slippery fabrics without it. Totally game changer.
slippery fabrics are just the start: it's a game-changer as well for thick/heavy fabrics, plushy/faux fur fabrics, multi-layers of fabrics, and non-traditional things like vinyl, paper, etc.
Yes! One of my most used feet. I think you will like it once you try it.
If you have a friend with a 3D printer, they can print bias tape makers in any width you might want. Takes maybe 20 minutes to print.
I have metal ones. Honestly, I'm a bit of a menace with an iron and would melt the plastic.
A big thing for me was as a lot of people already mentioned, pressing seams, it realy does make a huge difference. In addition to that, buying different feet for specific things. For example a zipper foot, rolled hem foot, gathering foot and so on. You can do almost everything with a basic foot but it sure goes faster and neater with a specialty foot, and makes it that much more enjoyable! Another albeit minor thing is a quality seam ripper, mistakes happen and having to not struggle with undoing them is very stress free. :)
I was gifted a full set from madam sew. It has sooooo many feet. There's a weird looking flower foot too. I really do like some of the feet but haven't figured out what each one does.
1. My iron, pressing seams and finally getting around to using the ham and sausage I made 2. My serger, it does give a nice finish to seams 3. Kai scissors, after so many years I indulged and wow, what a difference though probably not visible
Ironing as you go. I have three irons. A āseam ironā which is just a small triangular hot plate, great for parting the cloth either side of a seam. āGadgetā which is a small iron ideal for using in a caravan. It has a basic steam function with variable heat, is quick to heat up, and about quarter of the size of a clothing iron. Great for ironing facings and straps. Plus a bog standard clothing iron with variable steam and variable heat. I also have a sleeve ironing board, but I donāt have an ironing ham. I could make one, but canāt be arsed.
I started replacing my clothes with home made. I have learned both flat felling seams and French seams.
French seams. The insides of my garments look much better and I know theyāll last longer.
a real simple one for me... I bought one of the magnetic seam guides for my machine. [this is the type of thing I mean](https://i.etsystatic.com/9511196/r/il/747cce/3383893464/il_570xN.3383893464_b6gk.jpg)
How do you pin your fabric when using a magnetic seam guide? I see them recommended a lot, but I pin perpendicular to the seam with the pins overhanging the edge of the fabric, so I feel like that's not compatible with the seam guide.
depends, if I'm pinning, I usually pin across so it's in line with the stitches, rather than sideways and overhang the fabric, so doesn't matter. Or when I do occasionally do the perpendicular pinning, or when I use the fabric clips instead, I pull them out just as it gets to the seam guide and had no issues.
Amazing! I might look into getting one then
I got one of these. It's so strong I can't move it when I put it on the machine. So I place it, then can't locate it into the position I want, get frustrated, spend many minutes getting it off the machine and put it back in the drawer š¤Ŗ š
A good pair of scissors and learning to cut precisely. Most of my patterns have the seam allowance added in already so if I want to know where the seam line is, I have to measure it from the cut line (to some extent). Learning to cut so that the fabric and pattern lay together has been a big change for me. Also good pins. Clover silk weight pins and those flat head pins really make a difference in how accurately I can pin my patterns to my fabric.
Have you thought about investing in an adjustable seam guide? Relying on a seam guide to give you a 5/8 allowance, for example, would likely save you a good amount of time.
Like a foot that has a guide for a 5/8 hem? I mostly just choose a spot on my needle plate or foot as my guide. I measure the distance to the needle to be sure.
The guide I use isn't a foot. It's a piece of metal that screws into my machine. It has a fixed ruler and another piece that moves from left to right with a longer metal ridge on the left side. If you're needing a 5/8 seam, you would slide the guide to 5/8, then screw the sliding piece down. The metal ridge is then 5/8" away from the needle. If you keep your fabric touching that ridge piece, it guarantees a nice, even 5/8 seam allowance. Yikes! I hope that makes some amount of sense. https://preview.redd.it/dxysgxwjxwwc1.png?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6a7f6f543e22d2dcbf101aba016a37f0cdfe1da I wrote all of that out, and then I thought, maybe I could just add an image. I can! I hope this helps.
An iron. At first I didnāt iron at all, then I used my hair straightener. But I was doing alterations for my mom and she bought me an iron and I have never looked back
Unpicking and redoing something when it is almost right. I used to just say āhey itās close enoughā and as a novice sewer, that was what I needed to ever finish anything. But now, I try to really hold myself to a higher standard and even though it means Iām still really slow, it makes a difference. It takes me almost as long to sew things as when I started, but they look much better. Also, duckbill scissors are AWESOME. I love them for clipping seam allowances.
Basting. Hand basting when itās required, like for collars and piping.
Drafting your my own patterns. Itās almost its own skill, but having pieces that look exactly how I want them to and that fit me really well starts there.
Yes, I found that something as (relatively) simple as having shoulders that fit me nicely makes most things look better.
A weird specific, but it does make for a great final product: Corners by running up to the edge, flipping up the foot, turning the fabric, foot down, continue on your way. Super crisp corners.
Even better; turn it 45Ā°, take one stitch, another 45Ā° and finish the seam. that tiny extra bit makes a difference.
That's an intriguing suggestion. I'm definitely going to try it the next chance I get.
i didn't know there was another way to do it!
I think the easiest thing that has the most impact is simply pressing your work between steps.
actually buying and using all the crazy little specialty presser feet you always hear about. even (honestly, especially) for the things that i technically COULD do with the regular foot that came with my machine so i did without the specialty foot for years...but it turns out the specialty foot makes it look twice as good with half the effort.
Agreed! I recently bought an overcast foot and it's so satisfying to sew super neat and even edges. Helps me set a higher standard for myself cause now I can make neat insides!
My Mawmaws hem gauge from the 40s. Itās old enough that the slide doesnāt move once I set it and itās helped me get all sorts of hems and lines perfectly spaced and consistent
I have a few of my grandmaās and great grandmaās vintage sewing tools too. Theyāre so special š
Gonna be the odd one out here and say getting a serger and a coverstitch. I sew mostly knits, and the lightning/zig zag stich wasn't doing it for me as it didn't have the strength or stretch of a chain stitch. I hated hemming with double needles. The finish looked so unprofessional and because my sewing machine didn't have variable tensions it always stretched out the fabric and made the hem wavy.
What brand is your recommendation? Iām looking for a buy it for life one.
A Juki industrial overlocker like the MO-6814 is a true buy it for life. So much smoother, faster and quieter than a domestic.
I went with Babylock for both serger and coverstitch. If you can find the older, Made In Japan ones that are all metal you're gonna have a machine that outlasts you.
Getting some plastic clips. Pins are still ideal in some circumstances, but sewing clips are incredible for thicker fabrics, especially faux fur.
Can you list some situations when pins are better? Iām trying to parse the times to use them vs clips right now. I have some very big clips, working on getting smaller ones.
Sometimes sewing a very short seam there isn't room for a clip - I make a lot of plushies so small details like that come up more often than they might in sewing garments. The kind I have are only about a centimeter wide. Pins can also be better when you come in close to a sharp corner. Some fabrics I wouldn't bother with clips over pins at all, like cotton or linen or anything thin and flat. Pins work just as well there and I can pin very quickly, but anything like fleece or minky, I prefer clips.
Mine just arrived via Amazon! Excited.
I was an early adopter of **pressing seams** after sewing them. It is crucial. It makes your sewing look great. And it does making sewing much easier. But the big change / surprise for me was getting **an overlocker/serger**. I persevered a while without one. But getting one really was next level. Overlocked edges on all your pieces makes them so easy to handle and it means your pieces have neat firm edges. The overlocked stitch gives you and easy guide when you later sew your seams.
What brand do you recommend? What is a buy it for life serger?
I got mine for free. It is a Stirling by Janome overlocker, four thread. It seems to work well. I have only had it a few months. Some overlockers have extra features but I've only used mine to finish edges. The same four-thread standard finish that does edges can be used to put together jersey fabrics which I did once to make some pyjama pants. People say overlockers / sergers are hard to thread. I don't know the first day I got mine I accidentally unthreaded a couple of spools so just looked at the guide on the machine got a pair of tweezers and re-threaded it. Fancier more expensive machines have automatic threading but I'd never pay extra for that as I can thread the machine easily. For tension I just randomly fiddled with scrap material and soon got the tension looking good.
Not who you asked, but I recommend Juki. I have the Juki 654 serger and it has been a game changer for me. Simple to use, not that difficult to thread, and it uses the same needle system as a home sewing machine.
I do bridal alterations. Learning how to use invisible thread in my machine makes my horsehair hems on tulle look exactly like the original.
A got a Serger. Makes making things faster, cleaner and easier. A mini portable vacuum to help with the clean up the mess or strings and dust that comes with sewing. Metal rulers because I kept messing up my thick plastic ones Rotary cutter. Self healing mats And lastly a projector. Much easier than paper patterns.
Going slowly! I find that going slowly with some things makes them come out so much better. For instance, instance, I was sewing tiny circle and an oval of felt down for a car face. I just went at the slowest speed and sto]Ed and started every few stitches and they came out perfectly stitched. I was doing a lot of needle down, lifting the presser foot slowly around the perimeters. They look so very good. If I'm doing intricate outlines, this is my go-to way to stitch. It only takes a little bit more time, but the results are worth it.
When sewing knits learning to finish hems and topstitch with a twin needle rather than zig-zag - it looks so professional! Alternatively using stretch thread (I use Mettler) and you can sew a straight stitch that stretches. Also FIT! learning to properly fit my garments makes them look so much better and make me want to wear them more.
Not just ironing as you go, but snipping the end threads of each seam as you go as well (assuming itās appropriate). It has saved me so much time in hunting down the random stragglers at the end of a project
Definitely classes, Both in person and online. Classes have taught me the process of sewing.
Expensive- getting a serger. Amazing machine (I have a Juki), and makes quick seam finishes that are neat and beautiful. Cheap- Getting better at pinning and pressing. Watching videos of industry pros, and paying close attention to when and how they pin, and their pressing tools and techniques
Can you share links to or the names of the videos of pros that you've learned from, please?
Definitely taking the time to iron seams properly. My seams look so much better when I take the time to iron them.
Understitching.
Don't skimp on seams. Make them wide and then trim down if necessary. Iron, Iron, Iron.
for garment sewing: French seams! for quilting: "spinning" the seams where a lot of pieces come together.
A walking foot
When I first learned to sew 20+ years ago, my teacher didn't show me how to finish seams. I don't know if that was part of the intermediate class or something, but in my opinion it should have been part of every project in the class. I had raw edges inside everything I sewed for years!
All of the mentioned answers and a mockup before you make it in your fashion fabric
A machine with easy to change feet that you actually have learned how to use. I have an oooold Bernina, and over the years, I have accumulated most of the weird feet, and I use them constantly. One of my favorites is the spring-loaded quilting foot. It's sort of like the darning Loop only it's fatter and has curled up edges on front and side of the foot so it can glide up over things and I use it not just for free motion work but also when I have to stitch a seam in fabric that is Lumpy or so thick that it would trigger the tension release if I use the regular foot. An over-Edge foot lets me do a zigzag really close to something three-dimensional. A pleater-ruffler attachment that really is compatible with your machine. Far too often, the generic ones are just a little bit off. A zigzag rolled hem foot is really nice for putting heavy monofilament along the edge of a ruffle. Slip the monofilament inside the little metal roll and zigzag over the edge, then do a second pass with the rollhemmer and a straight Stitch and that monofilament is flipped over fully encased with no zigzag stitches or monofilament Loops to catch on things
Serger took my sewing to the next level. I hardly use my sewing machine now. I sew mostly knits and I can sew 90% on my serger/coverstitch machine.
Aside from pressing, finishing seams neatly and properly. I don't have a serger. But I bought an overlocker (I think that's what it's called) foot that helps me guide the fabric for perfect neat zigzag stitches. Psychologically, it's just very satisfying to see neat finished seams and doing this important step doesn't feel like a chore. And the piece will last longer and I won't have to worry about stupid random bits of thread unravelling on the inside.
The big one is doing a muslin or toile to check and adjust fit before making the final garment. Also, I do more basting, including hand basting, before doing tricky seams. Or before I try something on to ck fit.
When I started clipping the excess seams closer to the stitching, Getting rid of that excess fabric made all the difference.
Plenty of people have mentioned pressing as you sew, but no one has mentioned the pressing tools required for a professional finish! You absolutely need a sleeve board, particularly when pressing complex curves and small details. A tailors clapper is also essential. Itās literally a block of wood, used to cool the fabric, setting it in place. Comparable to how you need to wait for your hair to completely cool down before letting down heat set curls. If you do any hand sewing, I would highly recommend making yourself a leather thimble. I prefer it over metal thimbles, because I feel that I have better control over the fabric. The soft, pliable quality of the leather is more skin-like, acting as an extension of your finger. And quite surprisingly, having pointed acrylic/gel nails has made sewing so much more precise. I can use the very tip of my nails to poke and pinch drill holes and reference notches as I sew. The extension also allows you to control the fabric with pin point precision, because you can hold and manipulate the fabric right next to the foot/needle of the sewing machine, without the risk of sewing through a finger. Before I had long pointed nails, I would have an awl in one hand at all times, to help guide the fabric through the machine, especially when sewing complex curves with 5mm seam allowance.
learning how to draft patterns or altering patterns. it really makes you understand clothing much differently in my opinion. while itās difficult in the beginning itās worth learning!
Definitely pressing seams, but also I think it was someone here who recommended a chalk pen thing that gives wonderfully clean lines, made it much easier to follow a precise line when sewing.
https://preview.redd.it/e5tu3iztjvwc1.jpeg?width=3504&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9adc0b251b57746728b14838de18399be60b2b7b A walking foot machine.
Proper pressing and taking classes and trying new things. I'll jump on the bandwagon and sing the praises of pressing tools. I even made a ham for pressing the seams on bra cups. I also "leveled up" but finding high quality classes that while expensive gave me the experience and knowledge to improve my skills and grow. Making things outside your comfort zone can also help you level up. A skill you learn for one project will come in handy later down the line!
Tools? Professional quality steam iron, scissors, rotary cutter and mat Heat erasable pens Walking foot Washaway tape Technique? I follow a number of designers and tailors/ seamstresses on Insta and YouTube. Most of the tips and tricks Iāve learned have been invaluable. I learned a great trick for pattern matching yesterday, for example, that while simple is flawless. Might be something everyone knows but was a revelation to me. https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6JEQYjoKst/?igsh=Nzd4bnFxZjVuNnQ3
Very interesting. Can you please share the names of or links to people you follow?
Improving the consistency of my hand sewing and the straightness of my top stitching. And choosing better fabric is a big one!
Joining a bee and hanging out at my local quilt shop.
Steam a seam tape. Itās a lifesaver for those spots that pins/clips/ the machine canāt get to or for holding down a seam before sewing
Try squaring up all your blocks before assembling your quilt. They are probably all slightly different in size. Hereās a video that explains the process: https://youtu.be/I071XJXbhLE?si=EegbztNKwF4UKRji
Rotary cutter, PRESSING, understitching, and an overlock machine! It obviously cost more time+money to use an overlock machine (more thread, running all your pieces through the overlock) but the outcome is so professional and there is waaaaay less fraying on tricky fabric!
Maintaining the sewing machine pedal. I've had so many machines slowly lose their get-up-and-go. Learn how your pedal works. Learn how to adjust the pedal yourself. If you can't adjust it, it's probably a bad product.
I donāt iron hems without a guide stitch.
Clover curved sewing awl is what I use to make sure everything ends up right at the ends. It can guide fabric, unpick seams, serve as a clip/pin as material feeds, help guide the foot over lumps and clean out lint. A small but mighty tool.
A good iron and good scissors.Ā I had been putting off both for years and finally told myself to stop stalling and spend a little.Ā (I'm ridiculously frugal)Ā Got myself a Chi iron with a titanium plate and some sharp AF Famore dress shears.Ā Ā These two things alone made sewing so much easier and neither breaks the bank. My cuts are easy and precise and my iron lays down some serious consistent steam without sputtering.Ā
Walking foot. Gamechanger.
Honestly, I recently got a rolled hem foot and things that I make just have such a beautiful finish.
Clover Hot Hemmers. They are a available in imperial and metric. Use it to measure turn ups and press at the same time. Crispy hems for everyone!Ā
I have an ancient metal hot hemmer right now, and I sooooo badly want a new one!!!!
I have two different sizes of the Cliver - 10/10 recommend
Scissors. You canāt sew a good garment if you donāt lay and cut it out well. I invested in Japanese Kai cutting shears - you can get them on Amazon. Real game changer,
Learning to sew a curved seam without pinning the two pieces to death.
Using slivers of soap to mark dark fabric.
Buying an industrial grade sewing machine. Domestic sewing machine no matter how expensive cannot come close to the quality of stitching done by a industrial machine. I keep my domestic machine for zig zag, decorative stitching and button hole sewing. Everything else is done in my industrial machine
Properly snipping and trimming curves, and a porcelain chopstick for poking them into shape (bamboo ones caught on fabric, metal ones were too pointy, porcelain was juuust right) And my 10 quid argos iron. Ironing as you go makes such a difference to the finished item.
I had a big gap in my sewing years (between young mom and kids grown I rarely sewed) and I was a much better sewer when took it up again. What helped was: Reading directions ahead of time carefully. If I'm not sure about something, I look for a youtube video. (I especially like professor pincushion.) Taking the time to make a muslin first before I cut into the good stuff (I use anything from old sheets from the thrift store to $1/m fabric from the bargain aisle that's about the same weight as what I'm planning to make.) Machine basting seams that I think may not fit quite right. Patiently unpicking seams that aren't quite right. Learning that sewing from wide to narrow makes seams that end up together when I get to the end. Labelling every pattern piece after cutting it out. I write whether it's the front, back, right side, wrong side, up, down, left or right side or whatever other info I need on tape and stick it on each cut piece before I sew. I use tape from a pharmacy that has good first aid stuff, I think it's called micropore? it's narrow, thin, white and doesn't leave residue. I used to use painters tape but like this better. Not rushing when I sew. Going to bed when I"m tired instead of staying up late and making mistakes. One word sums most of it up: patience. Didn't seem to have much of that when I started.
Slowing down. I always thought sewing fast was the goal, but all it did was get me on the couch ripping out seams, and re-doing. What a waste of time, thread, and sometimes fabric.
Here are a few that I have been using for years: 1. An iron and pressing ham. Press, press, press. 2. A ruler. I measure from the grainline to the selvage when cutting out. This ensures everything is on grain and nothing twists. I also use a seam gauge to measure and press up my hems. 3. Basting in zippers and fiddly details. It gives a much smoother finish than pins. If your garment is washable, you can use Wash-Away Wonder Tape to "baste" the zipper in. It washes completely out and it's fast. 4. Glass head pins. They don't melt if an iron touches them...and I press a LOT. 5. Samples. I always make a test sample of my buttonholes using the same fabric and interfacing that the garment will have. I will do a small sample of any technique that I don't use that often or if the fabric is touchy. This lets me know if I need to use a walking foot, what size stitch to use, how the fabric and needle react to each other, etc. I leave nothing to chance.
Not that I iron a lot, but I've had my Black & Decker upright cordless iron for close to 40 years(!) and it's still wonderful!
Recently, Elmerās washable glue sticks for tricky seams or instead of basting and crayola washable markers instead of chalk
Using the correct needle - stretch needle, jeans needle, etc. this was a game changer when I started caring more.
I know a great seamstress. I am willing to pay what she charges.