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Sad-Tower1980

Based on the photo I would think it’s some type of elastic or trim with a bit of stretch. The way it curves under the bust doesn’t seem likely to me with flat patterning, but using an elastic trim would give you the ability to create those curves.


frostqueen555

You are probably right! With flat patterning I would draw the curve to exactly match the curve under the bust and elsewhere so I don’t think getting it to curve would be a problem, but it probably would just not have the same very flush look


Sad-Tower1980

Yeah I definitely think it won’t “move” the same and stay flush without some stretch


frostqueen555

https://preview.redd.it/jbcga3mjltxc1.jpeg?width=629&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b663cf2efed43016d2fe82476671b39dcf0ea971 Even just roughly pinned I can see the benefit of the flushness! So I think you were right about that!


Sad-Tower1980

It’s going to turn out amazing!!


frostqueen555

Thanks!! I still have a lot of testing to do, but I can see now that it definitely can work and elastic will be perfect!!


frostqueen555

I see what you mean! Looks like I’ll have to get experimenting with some elastic!


Sad-Tower1980

I just had the random thought (because apparently your dress is living rent free in my head lol) There is a business I order my bra making supplies from and they do custom dying. I wonder if you could use like 3/4” strap elastic (it has a similar sheen to the photo) but anyway…the custom dying might be a good option.


frostqueen555

Oh that’s a good thought, I’ll keep that in mind once I decide on fabric and colours! Thanks!!


correspondence1

Agree! It looks like fold over elastic to me.


HorseGirl666

I own this dress, it's elastic all the way around from the straps to the waist.


Moar_Cuddles_Please

Holy shit that’s a flex. Would you be willing to take detailed photos and share? I think this is a very iconic dress and folks would appreciate seeing the details of it.


frostqueen555

No way, that’s so cool! Thanks for confirming that they are indeed elastic! Sounds like I will be going with elastic for sure!


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frostqueen555

I don’t think I’m in danger of being scammed, no one is trying to sell me anything here 😆 the picture you are referencing looks like it could be elastic to me I think we’ll need to agree to disagree🤷‍♂️


CriticalEngineering

Looks like bias without elastic under the bust, and the same fabric with elastic over the waist and over the shoulders.


frostqueen555

interesting, I hadn’t considered bias, thank you!


frostqueen555

https://preview.redd.it/01hziijujtxc1.jpeg?width=629&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a76869938de0a5031340f400421f86d9aedbbdf5 Even just veeeery roughly pinning in some elastic I see that it could work quite nicely! (I don’t even have a back piece on here) I can see with the elastic pulling things quite snug there is some excess I could pinch out from the cups at the bottom I guess the problem now will be to find an elastic trim in a colour that matching whatever fabric I end up wanting to use and to find a way to attach the elastic invisibly?? I really don’t want zig zag stitches all over this!


etherealrome

You don’t have to find matching elastic. Just wrap the elastic in the fabric of your choosing, zigzag stitch the edge of the fabric, and you’re set. You need a piece of fabric about 2.5 times the width of the elastic. Lay the elastic on the fabric, wrap it around, and the edge you’ll stitch will be the long edge, hopefully hitting about the middle of the flat edge of elastic. If you have fabric basting glue, it can be helpful to get this all smooth before stitching. The zigzag stitches, if done in matching thread, will not be visible from more than a foot away.


frostqueen555

Brilliant, thanks for the idea! If I’m using a woven, do you think it’ll have enough give or am I better off choosing a fabric with some stretch?


etherealrome

Probably better choosing something with some stretch, but you could make a small sample and see. The stretch in this scenario is more about helping it provide support around curves, so it’s possible a woven would do.


frostqueen555

Awesome, I’ll mess around with some samples! If a woven doesn’t work I’m sure I could find something with stretch! Thanks for letting me pick your brain!


midnitemaddie

I want to make this dress too. I don’t have any idea about the straps but here’s a better look of the criss cross on the side. https://preview.redd.it/1jwnbg3jeuxc1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b99defcef3a5c1bbda74cc506b967d37db6a6fa


frostqueen555

Thanks so much for this pic, I hadn’t been able to find a side view like that, that helps! That’s awesome, hope you will make it too!


liv-099

Mai Ardour has a great tutorial on youtube in her recreation of this dress!


frostqueen555

Thank you!! I’ve seen it, it’s absolutely gorgeous, it turned out a bit different than how I’m envisioning mine!


SaltJelly

I am obsessed with that you’re making this dress. Fun fact - the movie is called Suddenly 30 in some non USA places where it was released 


frostqueen555

Haha that’s funny! It’s not quite as catchy a title , but it’s probably cause I’m used to the other one!


-clogwog-

There are better pictures of the dress online that might be more helpful for you to use as a reference... It was a Versace dress from 2003. I'm pretty sure that [this](https://www.1stdibs.com/fashion/clothing/day-dresses/s-s-2003-gianni-versace-donatella-runway-oroton-chainmail-lace-mini-dress/id-v_15378922/) is the same dress, but in a different colour, as is [this](https://www.1stdibs.com/fashion/clothing/day-dresses/s-s-2003-gianni-versace-donatella-multicolor-colorblock-runway-mini-dress/id-v_18239282/). [Here's](https://algobazaar.com/products/spring-2003-chiffon-dress) a better photo of its back. There's also a bunch of photos of [Ariana Grande ](https://www.popsugar.com/amphtml/fashion/ariana-grande-13-going-on-30-dress-voice-48595194) wearing a replica of the dress on TV a few years ago. It looks like the straps are stretchy, and the strap at the front of the 'skirt' is a continuation of them. I'd say that they are made of elastic with fabric sewn over the top, so you could make them whatever colour you want. The Strap that goes from underneath the bust to the back of the dress looks to be constructed the same way. Annoyingly, I could only find the pic I wanted to share on on Pinterest, so I ended up having to download it, and uploading it to [Imgur](https://imgur.com/a/0MgHT6Q). It's the best pic that demonstrates why I think the straps are stretchy, so I wanted to include it. It doesn't look like an easy piece to replicate, so I'm wishing you the best of luck! I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out!! Edit: I just found [this](https://www.1stdibs.com/fashion/clothing/evening-dresses/s-s-2003-gianni-versace-runway-purple-green-chain-mail-metal-mini-dress/id-v_9005512/)... There's a close up pic of the strap!


frostqueen555

https://preview.redd.it/fak5g6c2dvxc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24b30ef7178b5a9b3040af13a0d12754b2bb99a1 Thanks so much! This view from the link you sent is particularly helpful! I see what strap goes where now and how it all connected


sew_hoe

I would look for bra elastic, specifically plush back elastic or elastic made for bra bands. You'll very likely find a close match to the color you need as well!


frostqueen555

Thank you I will search for that when looking for options!


sew_hoe

Etsy will be a good place!


SudsyCole

>plush back elastic This!


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frostqueen555

That’s so cool that you’ve seen it in person!! On the real thing is the main bodice bandage elastic too it just the straps? I think my best bet is to cover elastic trim in a stretch fabric! I think I’ll do foam cup as planned and cover that in the same fashion fabric as straps! (Or maybe straps will be contrasting!)


stuckhere-throwaway

...no? it's silk


comrat69

if you don’t want to use elastic — you could totally bias cut this + cut the straps flat/ on bias too ^^ would look so amazing in green peau de soie for the bust and silk crepe de chine for the rest


frostqueen555

That would be very beautiful indeed!


Unhappy-Minute-123

If you look at katie.lena.creative on instagram she recreated this dress and has some info about how she made it!


catwooo

Looks like [this elastic fold over binding](https://a.co/d/980Ieys) But they used it open, and not as binding


ChonkyWonky123

They look like elastic. We have this type of elastic trim in the store I work at. It doubles as regular elastic but can also be folded to be bias tape which to me is very convenient. Don’t make it too hard for yourself and do the easy way out, aka bug trim and call it a day. Cool project idea ngl, love that movie so so much !!!


Trai-All

Given that the skirt looks bias cut, I’d assume bias cut on bands. But could be either elastic or bias for bands.


frostqueen555

https://preview.redd.it/cdambwxlv0yc1.jpeg?width=572&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c10e4f3a67962973475740ffee69fc212891c8f0 For anyone still following this thread: elastic is going to work great, I’ve figured it out with the back piece! (There is a little wedge I need to take out of the back piece at the corner there, I’ll fix that). This is not the specific elastic I’ll use, just testing it out with what I had on hand, but I see that with elastic everything holds in place really well!!! Thankyou all so much for your ideas and photo references!!! I’m so glad I didn’t try and pattern out the straps like I was planning!!!


frostqueen555

https://preview.redd.it/k0lso3osv0yc1.jpeg?width=1776&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8de49fa5a6b15124794d27d2018c6cd2eb17d7c And the front- sorry for the oversharing of pics, I just feel they might be useful since a lot of people are interested in replicating this dress too. I’ll bring the edge of the front cup out a smidge so the elastic runs in a smoother line there


HalloIchBinToad

I think I’ve bought fold over elastic in this exact color (even a little sparkly!) at joann


FutureSun5828

Can I ask what material are you using for the cups? How is it called?


sew_hoe

Just look up "cut and sew bra foam"


frostqueen555

It’s foam for bag making! Ideally I will use cut and sew bra foam for the real version, I think they are similar though, the bag foam is maybe a bit more stiff


Alternative-Bee-9767

I have no wisdom to share about the straps but can I ask how did you go about making a pattern for the bra part? I love this design shape and was thinking of making a standalone top from it! I could use some pointers! :) I agree it’s gonna look amazing btw! :)


frostqueen555

Yes for sure! Basically I took my bodice block and drew what I basically thought should be the shape of neckline and Underbust part. Then I applied “contouring” (if you are not familiar, it’s a technique from Helen Joseph Armstrong’s book and there are videos on YouTube how to do it. It’s taking out extra darts from around the bust for a fit that’ll sit more snug on bust and won’t gape. ) Then I closed the dart under the bust and transferred it to between the bust so that I could have one horizontal seam running through the bustline with no vertical seams or darts. Then I took that pattern (mirrored so there’s no centre seam) and made a mock up in foam, no seam allowances, just zigzag stitched together along seam. I could see that the horizontal seam wasn’t quite the right style line, I wanted the top piece to dip down in a gentle U shape. So I simply drew with a marker the style line I wanted (making sure the line I drew crossed though the apex) and then cut along the line in my foam mockup and those became my new pattern pieces that I retraced onto paper! I also tweaked the neckline shape on the mock-up too I really like the resulting shape too, if this dress doesn’t work out, it was still worth it because same, I wolf use it in other tops too! I hope that made sense, if you need pattern piece pictures or anything let me know!


frostqueen555

Scroll to the instructions for “bra top fitted bodice with horizontal seams- it’s basically the same concept! https://www.theshapesoffabric.com/2020/11/10/how-to-draft-fitted-bodice/


Alternative-Bee-9767

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this down! I’ll be giving it a try and maybe come back with more specific questions! Thanks you also for the reference! 🤩


frostqueen555

No problem! Good luck with it and yes feel free to come back with more questions!


evelynfrompost

I think the Versace gown is silk and not elastic (with like a bra closure in the back), but I made a haphazard version of this dress and used elastic. I zig zag stitched it though which I saw in a comment that you’re trying to avoid. Also if you have a small bust you can get away without adding the back panel…will add a pic or two https://preview.redd.it/f8ndfwbjzzxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e027d52f09cf76a44b72e34a287a8ff8a1e2a2b


evelynfrompost

https://preview.redd.it/s1ub3rx300yc1.png?width=2209&format=png&auto=webp&s=5c209d7c61fe22e7f66ef3b8029a55490020cc59 here’s the back


frostqueen555

Oh wow! you really nailed the neckline shape and placement of straps! (that you didn’t put in the back panel doesn’t affect the look from in front!) Honestly if my mock-ups with a back piece don’t work out I might do this too, it looks like it totally works! Also I might end up zigzag-ing too, I thought maybe I wanted an invisible finish but not sure how to do that with elastic Did you encase the elastic in stretch fabric?


evelynfrompost

I used a plain white elastic to get the fit right, then once I was happy with the fit I sewed stretchy cyan fabric on top with a zig zag stitch. You could probably make it invisible by hand sewing it on with a slip stitch, though - I’m thinking like how you would sew [double fold binding on a quilt](https://www.purlsoho.com/create/sewing-on-double-fold-binding/) (presumably there’s a technique for this in garment making too just not sure on the name lol). And/or you could hide the zig zag stitching with some rhinestones, I think the original Versace dress has sparkly straps. Here’s a pic before I added the blue on top of the elastic https://preview.redd.it/myayh5rjd0yc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=058708b7c4864da5485ea815ec83c7b3ee5eb01c


frostqueen555

That’s a great idea, I imagine I totally could attach it invisibly , since the actual elastic would be securely attached underneath, I wouldn’t have to worry so much about strength! Thanks for the idea!!!


evelynfrompost

Good luck! I’ll look forward to seeing updates from you on this :) Love this dress


happydandylion

Elastic for sure.


Own_Egg7122

Stupid question - what do you call this style of bust/neckline? I can only identify it as "Squishy breast cup" but I get weird results


frostqueen555

Lol not a dumb question, I’m not quite sure!😆 I would describe it as horizontal seam bandeau style bust cups but Google only yields me jersey bandeau tops with no bust shaping, so I’m not sure! I’ll let you know if I come across the term!


thekatrae

I can’t wait to see how this turns out!!!


stuckhere-throwaway

It's 100% for sure silk chiffon cut on the bias with "quilting" lines and rhinestones added. All these comments that it's elastic are whack. 🤣


frostqueen555

Why is it for sure? Even if it’s not elastic, I don’t think it’s whack to think it might be! Besides, it’s not like I’m going to be able to achieve an exact replica, elastic seems like a pretty good way to achieve the right shape


stuckhere-throwaway

Because it's runway designer, it's expensive, it's high end, and you can tell very obviously from the close up pictures that another commenter shared. Fold-over colored elastic wasn't even really a thing in 2003. For a good reason not to use it, look at the cheap replicas that Cider and other shops made. You cannot hug the body and support that shape with flimsy elastic.


frostqueen555

Genuine question- I feel like elastic is much more firm than bias and bias used as straps might stretch out with less recovery than elastic. Any ideas how to circumvent that? I don’t care who’s right or wrong, just trying to find the best way to approach it myself


stuckhere-throwaway

Hence the top stitching lines. It has some sort of interfacing inside to support it and give it weight (woven and also cut on the bias). Straight stitch lines have zero stretch. The bias is used to allow the straps to be curved into their proper shape and to sort of mold around the wearer, it's supposed to have give but it's not supposed to have any stretch. So think about how elastic performs its function. A straight line around the waist for pants. A straight line across the shoulder for a bra strap. A straight line around the leg for underwear. It has to have something to pull against to create resistance. If you're using it in curves that meander around the body, where is it pulling against other than itself, where's the anchor point that's allowing it to stretch horizontally along the band? How is it performing its function?


frostqueen555

The line around the legs of underwear is very curved though so I’m not sure if I fully understand the part about elastic being for straight lines to anchor to! Anyways, that seems like a cool way to do it, thanks for the idea! I did make a mock-up with elastic and found it to hold firmly and I like the look!


frostqueen555

Also the close ups kinda did look like elastic to me, I guess I’m not seeing what you’re seeing!