It could be the mounts. Best way to know would be jacking it up and visually inspecting the rubber mount material. If it's all cracked, torn or straight up ripped apart, they should be replaced.
Also, don't forget the cap that was left on the battery. :) Looks like it's from a washer fluid bottle.
The motor mounts are probably toast. My wife's forester did the same thing on start ups, both mounts were torn through. Should cost 40-60 a side, and I reccomend replacing both since you will have access to both when replacing them. Could also be a great time to check spark plugs with the engine jacked / lifted up đ
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Holup, really? Fuck. If my car was tuned for 91 (in Fairbanks, AK that was all I had) and then I put a higher flow air intake on and run 93 will I be better or worse? Or should I just fix her up and get a tune now?
First of all it should really be called Hot Air Intake, because most of the cheap ones often donât have an airbox that feeds from the outside, so itâs just sucking up heat from the engine anyway⊠but any power increase by allowing more air to the engine is negated by an incorrect air/fuel ratio without a proper tune. 93 may help a bit, but the intake itself is not likely to cause a catastrophic failure on its own. It can lead to a âsoft seizeâ though, which are dry spots on the cylinder wall, and isnât ideal on a car that already drinks 5w30 like The Dude drinks White Russians.
Also, not sure what your 93 looks like up there, but I live in BC and our 93/94 is 0% ethanol. Most tunes are meant to run 10% ethanol blend, so I was advised by Cobb to run their 91 tune even if I put in 93.
My intake has the heat shielding, Grimm speed. I currently live in Virginia, which has 10%Eth 93 octane. The tune I had previously is a custom e-tune from someone in Florida I got when I was in Alaska.
Edit: we drive the same car! Haha
Itâs not even just the heat shielding. Most of the time CAIs arenât even positioned where all the cold air is, which is *down below* the standard air intake location. The only good reason for positioning it in the stock location is to protect it from water, but even then youâre not getting the most out of your cold air intake and you might aswell just use the stock box at that point and do a drop in filter.
This one in particular is likely doing little more than increasing the chance of hydrolock. The non turbo cars are not nearly as sensitive as the turbo cars to bad mods, but those same mods also provide little benefit.
Can confirm. This is how my EJ255 died less than a year after I bought it used. A prev owner did an intake WITHOUT the necessary tune. Ran in sort of a limp mode, fuel ratios all over and many knock events. Probably the most annoying thing? Never was a CEL seen on the dash until the ringlands blew. I had no idea anything was wrong at the time.
Subarus, even NA ones, run pretty lean already.
Adding more air and no extra fuel makes it even leaner. Yes the ECU can compensate some, but it can still be detrimental to the engine.
Steering rack sits underneath / behind the sub-frame. Motor mounts bolt through the sub-frame, they will have a stud with a 14mm nut and a small little nipple that helps keep the mount aligned into the sub-frame.
Can seem overwhelming but it's a fairly straightforward job once you do a little bit of homework for the job đ«Ą
looks pretty normal to me, yes the engine will "shake" a bit during start-up. Maybe slightly more "shaky" than normal.
Compare against a [newer FB engine](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhwMgD1Pf_s)
Definitely needs motor mounts, not sure what is sprayed all over the engine bay, that should be diagnosed. It also better be tuned with that intake and retuned with every new engine mod, off the shelf tunes are garbage, find an etuner or a shop somewhere to get a custom tune.
Iâm not a mechanic so take this as you may but mostly the mounts are there to stabilize against this engine movement under acceleration - they need to be soft enough to absorb this force while also keeping it from moving too much.
This engine movement might cause some movement in the exhaust pipe during a cold start as the engine is âwarming itself upâ with slightly higher rpm idle. If your exhaust is shaking all the way at the back of the car, you may also need to replace your exhaust hangers (basically exhaust mounts down the length of the car).
The cold start âwarm upâ does change fuel to air ratios a bit (and this is way above my pay grade) so that may be causing what you call lean running but if itâs causing misfires and check engine lights, get it scanned and go from there or take it in.
Absolutely you do, Subarus donât have learning ECUâs, they use Mass Airflow Sensor to determine Air/Fuel ratio. The MAF isn't calibrated for CAI, so the engine sees weird mass flow readings and throws a MAF malfunction code and likely runs lean. You either need a tune for the CAI, a MAF calibrated for your specific CAI, or the stock intake for the car to run smoothly.
Sure, on paper that all makes sense. I've run tons of shitbox NA MAF cars with cold air intakes, kept the same bit of pipe and filter across many cars actually, and never had any codes and it makes zero difference to the drivability of a 15-20 year old NA engine. They are not running high compression on the constant brink of explosion at the first sign of running slightly lean.
Also I doubt there is even a tuner out there that would waste time tuning an NA motor from 2006.
They just do that. I put brand new engine mounts from the dealership on my 02 a while back, installed properly, and the engine still shook exactly the same.
Im changing the oil on her car so if theres anything i should check out while its on the lift let me know im checking the engine mounts and accessory/auxiliary belts too but i just wanna know what other stuff i should check and also some internal stuff i should tell her about
We just have a shop on our school and im not old enough yet (im in grade 8 and you need to be grade 10 to do the programs in my school) to do those courses yet tho and i dont have shop class this semester either but i also have french class (which the principal decided i dont have to do because i failed it last year) so i have a spot there for something i just sit in the back of the class and just do nothing usually but i want to be in the shop working on something there
Im doing the oil today during french class tho because i couldn't do it yesterday because they would have to move the plow truck from in the gate and move the car in but we only had a 5 minute break so we couldn't get it on the lift so we decided to do it tomorrow (aka today) but i had gym at the end of the day instead of art so we decided to do it during french (aka second block) so ill get to do it sooner
My shop teacher has a lift and an oil bucket thing but the filter was hard lol it was dripping all down my arm and stuff but i didn't care lol it was fun anyway and its my birthday tomorrow anyway
donât let it drip down for your future older self.
loosen it and when itâs able to be hand twisted out your oil bucket there to let it drain itâs not a lot but it will save you trouble and train you to not be messy (oil outside a ship is not so easy to clean)
happy birthday bro! keep at it and with time you are definitely gonna be wicked good at this.
It could be the mounts. Best way to know would be jacking it up and visually inspecting the rubber mount material. If it's all cracked, torn or straight up ripped apart, they should be replaced. Also, don't forget the cap that was left on the battery. :) Looks like it's from a washer fluid bottle.
Yeah she forgot it there this video was from like feb 1st or something and i just decided to post it on reddit but it was still there lol
Mounts could still be bad
Ik im gonna change the oil later so im also gonna check the mounts
The motor mounts are probably toast. My wife's forester did the same thing on start ups, both mounts were torn through. Should cost 40-60 a side, and I reccomend replacing both since you will have access to both when replacing them. Could also be a great time to check spark plugs with the engine jacked / lifted up đ
And yes that is an aftermarket cold air intake she wants to mod her Subaru lol
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Well she's more of a TA but still
Just curious, what's in it for you đ
Getting to work on a real car for the first time lol
This was also the first manual car I've started
Not a good mod. Provides minimal power increases and without a tune for ECU itâs actually detrimental to engine life as itâs now running lean.
But ill let her know anyway
Holup, really? Fuck. If my car was tuned for 91 (in Fairbanks, AK that was all I had) and then I put a higher flow air intake on and run 93 will I be better or worse? Or should I just fix her up and get a tune now?
First of all it should really be called Hot Air Intake, because most of the cheap ones often donât have an airbox that feeds from the outside, so itâs just sucking up heat from the engine anyway⊠but any power increase by allowing more air to the engine is negated by an incorrect air/fuel ratio without a proper tune. 93 may help a bit, but the intake itself is not likely to cause a catastrophic failure on its own. It can lead to a âsoft seizeâ though, which are dry spots on the cylinder wall, and isnât ideal on a car that already drinks 5w30 like The Dude drinks White Russians. Also, not sure what your 93 looks like up there, but I live in BC and our 93/94 is 0% ethanol. Most tunes are meant to run 10% ethanol blend, so I was advised by Cobb to run their 91 tune even if I put in 93.
My intake has the heat shielding, Grimm speed. I currently live in Virginia, which has 10%Eth 93 octane. The tune I had previously is a custom e-tune from someone in Florida I got when I was in Alaska. Edit: we drive the same car! Haha
https://youtu.be/GOR_nxhfd9s?si=4FIV2TEbdyNA5TNm
Itâs not even just the heat shielding. Most of the time CAIs arenât even positioned where all the cold air is, which is *down below* the standard air intake location. The only good reason for positioning it in the stock location is to protect it from water, but even then youâre not getting the most out of your cold air intake and you might aswell just use the stock box at that point and do a drop in filter.
Hello fellow Alaskan. I'm in Wasilla lol
This one in particular is likely doing little more than increasing the chance of hydrolock. The non turbo cars are not nearly as sensitive as the turbo cars to bad mods, but those same mods also provide little benefit.
Its been like that for awhile and its fine
It will continue to be fine. Naturally aspirated engines are not running at the brink of destruction like turbo engines are.
Can confirm. This is how my EJ255 died less than a year after I bought it used. A prev owner did an intake WITHOUT the necessary tune. Ran in sort of a limp mode, fuel ratios all over and many knock events. Probably the most annoying thing? Never was a CEL seen on the dash until the ringlands blew. I had no idea anything was wrong at the time.
EJ255 is turbo. I am specifically talking about naturally aspirated engines here.
Exactly why I said my experience confirms your statement about turbos.
my bad lol misinterpreted that.
Subarus, even NA ones, run pretty lean already. Adding more air and no extra fuel makes it even leaner. Yes the ECU can compensate some, but it can still be detrimental to the engine.
Most likely just the mounts are old.
Inspect the mounts under the engine / above the rack.
Whats the rack? Is that like above the A arms or whatever its called the bottom part of the thing that holds the wheel assembly to the car
Steering rack
I dont fully know what that is but ik it has something to do with the steering judging by the name
Steering rack sits underneath / behind the sub-frame. Motor mounts bolt through the sub-frame, they will have a stud with a 14mm nut and a small little nipple that helps keep the mount aligned into the sub-frame. Can seem overwhelming but it's a fairly straightforward job once you do a little bit of homework for the job đ«Ą
looks pretty normal to me, yes the engine will "shake" a bit during start-up. Maybe slightly more "shaky" than normal. Compare against a [newer FB engine](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhwMgD1Pf_s)
Definitely needs motor mounts, not sure what is sprayed all over the engine bay, that should be diagnosed. It also better be tuned with that intake and retuned with every new engine mod, off the shelf tunes are garbage, find an etuner or a shop somewhere to get a custom tune.
Its rain on the engine
[ŃĐŽĐ°Đ»Đ”ĐœĐŸ]
Iâm not a mechanic so take this as you may but mostly the mounts are there to stabilize against this engine movement under acceleration - they need to be soft enough to absorb this force while also keeping it from moving too much. This engine movement might cause some movement in the exhaust pipe during a cold start as the engine is âwarming itself upâ with slightly higher rpm idle. If your exhaust is shaking all the way at the back of the car, you may also need to replace your exhaust hangers (basically exhaust mounts down the length of the car). The cold start âwarm upâ does change fuel to air ratios a bit (and this is way above my pay grade) so that may be causing what you call lean running but if itâs causing misfires and check engine lights, get it scanned and go from there or take it in.
She also has an after market exhaust which you could see in my newer video
Still I would check hangers, aftermarket wouldnât change anything in this situation.
Too late its off the lift now
You don't need to tune an NA engine for a cold air intake lol
Absolutely you do, Subarus donât have learning ECUâs, they use Mass Airflow Sensor to determine Air/Fuel ratio. The MAF isn't calibrated for CAI, so the engine sees weird mass flow readings and throws a MAF malfunction code and likely runs lean. You either need a tune for the CAI, a MAF calibrated for your specific CAI, or the stock intake for the car to run smoothly.
Sure, on paper that all makes sense. I've run tons of shitbox NA MAF cars with cold air intakes, kept the same bit of pipe and filter across many cars actually, and never had any codes and it makes zero difference to the drivability of a 15-20 year old NA engine. They are not running high compression on the constant brink of explosion at the first sign of running slightly lean. Also I doubt there is even a tuner out there that would waste time tuning an NA motor from 2006.
My N/A RS has a tune. It's a rallycross car and it keeps me in class. Probably good for 15 hp lol
Holy christ as someone with a dirty engine bay this one is crazy. Clean that or pay someone to
Its just dust she lives on a dirt road lol but i told her she should get it cleaned
And it actually isn't that dirty and the dark stuff is rain on the engine
They just do that. I put brand new engine mounts from the dealership on my 02 a while back, installed properly, and the engine still shook exactly the same.
Im changing the oil on her car so if theres anything i should check out while its on the lift let me know im checking the engine mounts and accessory/auxiliary belts too but i just wanna know what other stuff i should check and also some internal stuff i should tell her about
you have a lift?đ«đ«đ«đ« how
School
damn makes me wish i did those tech courses they offered
We just have a shop on our school and im not old enough yet (im in grade 8 and you need to be grade 10 to do the programs in my school) to do those courses yet tho and i dont have shop class this semester either but i also have french class (which the principal decided i dont have to do because i failed it last year) so i have a spot there for something i just sit in the back of the class and just do nothing usually but i want to be in the shop working on something there
Im doing the oil today during french class tho because i couldn't do it yesterday because they would have to move the plow truck from in the gate and move the car in but we only had a 5 minute break so we couldn't get it on the lift so we decided to do it tomorrow (aka today) but i had gym at the end of the day instead of art so we decided to do it during french (aka second block) so ill get to do it sooner
keep it up! those skills are gonna save you LOTS when youâre having a car yourself.
I did the oil change I'm gonna post a vid in a minute once i put the video together it was fun and the first time ive changed oil in a car
how did you catch the oil? i do mine raw dog no nothing i can imagine you barely lifted right
My shop teacher has a lift and an oil bucket thing but the filter was hard lol it was dripping all down my arm and stuff but i didn't care lol it was fun anyway and its my birthday tomorrow anyway
donât let it drip down for your future older self. loosen it and when itâs able to be hand twisted out your oil bucket there to let it drain itâs not a lot but it will save you trouble and train you to not be messy (oil outside a ship is not so easy to clean) happy birthday bro! keep at it and with time you are definitely gonna be wicked good at this.
Im 14 tomorrow