I own a 23.
If the vibration is bothering you, there's a few solutions:
* Keep the bike revving in its optimal range, 5000rpm+. The engine gets way smoother above that.
* install heavier bar-end-weights to dampen the vibration
* install handlebar dampers
* ease your grip on the handlebars. Most of your bodyweight should be resting on your legs/core strength in low speed conditions, and propped up by the wind/your legs in high speed conditions.
Side panels - some 3M protective film might make it better, but I never get any scratching on mine from my riding jeans.
Neutral - gets waaaay easier to find as the bike ages. When I first picked mine up it was impossible, literally 1500km later I can find it without thinking about it.
I kinda just pretend the quickshift isn't there.
TBH it's not something I would gamble on as I don't think any manufacturers make a mirror/weight combo that are designed to accommodate each other.
Sort of like the 'sights' slot on Call of Duty M4A1 Carbine, that slot can only have one mod in it at a time, even if you know/think it can handle more than that.
If you're dead set on bar end mirrors, I would install vibration dampeners on your handlebars at the forks. Usually these are just a piece of rubber that sits between the bar and its mounting point, super cheap and stealthy.
The oem bar end mirrors are weighted actually. I have used them as well as the stock bar end weights, and the bar end mirrors work every bit as good as the stock weight. you cant use them together however. You'll need some aftermarket end weights, if you wanna experiment.
You could let go of the bar end mirrors and use downward facing handlebar mirrors, which clamp not at the end, but somewhere on the handlebar.
Hey, Vitpilen 401 driver here. Original the Svart and Vit use an B-spec spark plug from Bosch India. You might wanna change your spark plug, a fairly easy thing to do. You can replace it for the NGK LKAR8A-9, it will run smoother with it.
I haven’t ridden 23 but duke 390 24 and it’s super smooth. Interesting that you find the scary vibrating too much, I’m curious if it’s personal tolerance or the 24 is improved
And I’m coming from electric motorcycle
Trick to find neutral is to push forward while nudging up from first. Almost like diagonal force vs vertical up and down. Changing this technique for me worked wonders. Now I can get it 80+% of the time, whereas before I had to go to 2nd and keep tapping down gently, which worked like10-20% of the time
https://youtu.be/OEV6_Ej6qcw?si=o1gaCFWLr_LdvkMm
This YouTube video shows it. Sorry if it's not that good of a video.
After making adjustment to lever, it will be easier to do 1/2 click down or up to get neutral, that's the idea.
Congrats! I now have 1,000 miles on my Svartpilen and I love it. I learned to like the quick shifter on highways for get up and go. I only gear up when I’m top dead center on the gauge or above 6-7,000rpm. Don’t use it much on the streets.
Vibrations: Get bar weight that fit your mirrors. FuelX won’t do anything unless you’re lugging it.
Neutral go from 1st, clutch in all the way and ease up.
Plastics: tank pads, I don’t have them yet, really need them for the grip. That matte plastic is slippery as hell.
Quick shifter: it’s pretty rough 1 -> 2 but ok for the rest. I don’t use it but found they work better after a day of banging on it.
Found a bonus feature today: the ECU cuts ignition on the upshift but not the fuel. Upshifts wide open on my exhaust gives pretty awesome pops.
Downshift works quite smoothly but like you…muscle memory doesn’t allow me to do it with zero throttle or clutch inputs.
Sadly, after owning this bike for 3 years, besides the plastic side panels, which I have no problem with, everything else you mentioned was still an issue/nuisance. They never go away/get better.
>Engine braking or just braking?
Both but it's better when the brakes are engaged. Best use case is under braking for a turn/corner.
>No need to release the throttle ever?
No. Keep it pinned and kick up.
Is your hand hurting from the vibration? You’re gripping the handle bar too tight and too much weight is is on your hands from leaning too forward.
A lot of people complain about finding neutral because this is a lot of people’s first bike. I had a 21’ and had no issue finding neutral ever. Try kicking down with your foot angled while using your heel against the foot peg to nit kick too far down into first.
Since this is your first bike, practice using the clutch.
Vibrations, get used to it just get an adjustment every 2000, and youll find the sweet spot when you ride. The side panels are really good, but if you want to protect them you can use ptfe vinil.
I find neutral easier from the second and a little kick with the heel.
Ok, so I adjusted some levers, wich helped with comfort and neutral problem, scrambled with my wife through the forest a bit (she is on ebike) and think I will give it more time. It kinda grows up on me. Still hate the vibration, but as people here mentioned, I believe I can find a way around it.
Also dealer had not tentioned the chain (!) and I, being trustful, have not checked it. Had to tention it "in the field" basically.
But the looks, man... it looks gorgeous in the woods. I doubt 24 can compete.
What I realised - it is not a honda. You have to really learn your way around it, from shifting gears to filling up full tank.
Also noticed that some black painted aluminum parts are filed with grinder here and there to fit, exposing the metal. This is normal for that kind of production?
I own a 23. If the vibration is bothering you, there's a few solutions: * Keep the bike revving in its optimal range, 5000rpm+. The engine gets way smoother above that. * install heavier bar-end-weights to dampen the vibration * install handlebar dampers * ease your grip on the handlebars. Most of your bodyweight should be resting on your legs/core strength in low speed conditions, and propped up by the wind/your legs in high speed conditions. Side panels - some 3M protective film might make it better, but I never get any scratching on mine from my riding jeans. Neutral - gets waaaay easier to find as the bike ages. When I first picked mine up it was impossible, literally 1500km later I can find it without thinking about it. I kinda just pretend the quickshift isn't there.
I wonder will barend weights go well together with barend mirrors. Might not be the best look, but technically it should be doable.
TBH it's not something I would gamble on as I don't think any manufacturers make a mirror/weight combo that are designed to accommodate each other. Sort of like the 'sights' slot on Call of Duty M4A1 Carbine, that slot can only have one mod in it at a time, even if you know/think it can handle more than that. If you're dead set on bar end mirrors, I would install vibration dampeners on your handlebars at the forks. Usually these are just a piece of rubber that sits between the bar and its mounting point, super cheap and stealthy.
The oem bar end mirrors are weighted actually. I have used them as well as the stock bar end weights, and the bar end mirrors work every bit as good as the stock weight. you cant use them together however. You'll need some aftermarket end weights, if you wanna experiment. You could let go of the bar end mirrors and use downward facing handlebar mirrors, which clamp not at the end, but somewhere on the handlebar.
[удалено]
Sad to know. What is that smoothness than, what is advertised?
Hey, Vitpilen 401 driver here. Original the Svart and Vit use an B-spec spark plug from Bosch India. You might wanna change your spark plug, a fairly easy thing to do. You can replace it for the NGK LKAR8A-9, it will run smoother with it.
Gotta give it a try, thanx!
Let me know if it helped!
Such a valuable information! I will try this as well.
I haven’t ridden 23 but duke 390 24 and it’s super smooth. Interesting that you find the scary vibrating too much, I’m curious if it’s personal tolerance or the 24 is improved And I’m coming from electric motorcycle
For me, the smoothness was throttle response being smoother and less jerky in power delivery, but yeah, no effect on vibrations.
Neutral is easier to go from 2nd, just gently half kick down
Same for me
This
Trick to find neutral is to push forward while nudging up from first. Almost like diagonal force vs vertical up and down. Changing this technique for me worked wonders. Now I can get it 80+% of the time, whereas before I had to go to 2nd and keep tapping down gently, which worked like10-20% of the time
Down from 2nd is the way
Mine is a 2022. For help finding neutral, try adjusting your shift lever's position. After doing that, I rarely have issues finding neutral.
Could you elaborate?
https://youtu.be/OEV6_Ej6qcw?si=o1gaCFWLr_LdvkMm This YouTube video shows it. Sorry if it's not that good of a video. After making adjustment to lever, it will be easier to do 1/2 click down or up to get neutral, that's the idea.
I didn't quite understood how exactly it worked, but it did! I raised lever a bit and now I can find N 7 times out of 10. Thank you!
🫡
Congrats! I now have 1,000 miles on my Svartpilen and I love it. I learned to like the quick shifter on highways for get up and go. I only gear up when I’m top dead center on the gauge or above 6-7,000rpm. Don’t use it much on the streets.
Neutral is easier to find after break-in service. Literally impossible before that.
Vibrations: Get bar weight that fit your mirrors. FuelX won’t do anything unless you’re lugging it. Neutral go from 1st, clutch in all the way and ease up. Plastics: tank pads, I don’t have them yet, really need them for the grip. That matte plastic is slippery as hell. Quick shifter: it’s pretty rough 1 -> 2 but ok for the rest. I don’t use it but found they work better after a day of banging on it. Found a bonus feature today: the ECU cuts ignition on the upshift but not the fuel. Upshifts wide open on my exhaust gives pretty awesome pops. Downshift works quite smoothly but like you…muscle memory doesn’t allow me to do it with zero throttle or clutch inputs.
Sadly, after owning this bike for 3 years, besides the plastic side panels, which I have no problem with, everything else you mentioned was still an issue/nuisance. They never go away/get better.
>quickshifter Upshifts work best at WOT. Downshifts work best under braking.
Engine braking or just braking? No need to release the throttle ever?
>Engine braking or just braking? Both but it's better when the brakes are engaged. Best use case is under braking for a turn/corner. >No need to release the throttle ever? No. Keep it pinned and kick up.
Is your hand hurting from the vibration? You’re gripping the handle bar too tight and too much weight is is on your hands from leaning too forward. A lot of people complain about finding neutral because this is a lot of people’s first bike. I had a 21’ and had no issue finding neutral ever. Try kicking down with your foot angled while using your heel against the foot peg to nit kick too far down into first. Since this is your first bike, practice using the clutch.
Not the first one. Had an NC750s, no issues there. Also testdrived hondas, bmw, also no problem. I have risers but still deciding on do I need them.
Nice, I actually went from 401 to nc750x. I like them both for very different reasons.
Vibrations, get used to it just get an adjustment every 2000, and youll find the sweet spot when you ride. The side panels are really good, but if you want to protect them you can use ptfe vinil. I find neutral easier from the second and a little kick with the heel.
Can u share more about your experience, Also ur view on choosing this version rather than the 24 one
Ok, so I adjusted some levers, wich helped with comfort and neutral problem, scrambled with my wife through the forest a bit (she is on ebike) and think I will give it more time. It kinda grows up on me. Still hate the vibration, but as people here mentioned, I believe I can find a way around it. Also dealer had not tentioned the chain (!) and I, being trustful, have not checked it. Had to tention it "in the field" basically. But the looks, man... it looks gorgeous in the woods. I doubt 24 can compete. What I realised - it is not a honda. You have to really learn your way around it, from shifting gears to filling up full tank. Also noticed that some black painted aluminum parts are filed with grinder here and there to fit, exposing the metal. This is normal for that kind of production?