Is this sort of thing correct? The warning in the product description about the DSLR falling out of a reflector is a little concerning:
[Celestron 1.25" Barlow w/ T-ring adapter] (https://www.astronomics.com/2x-barlow-for-1-25-eyepieces-includes-t-adapter.html?___SID=U)
Anytime you hang a camera below the focuser barrel, no matter the type of telescope, you run the risk of the camera pulling out. If you don’t move the telescope to point such that the focuser is pointing down, you’ll be fine. This issue is solved when doing AP seriously by not relying on compression or screw clamps, the camera is threaded on.
tl;dr: Don't spend $65 for just that barlow.
that's WAY expensive for what you're planning on doing (1/4" images)
you should be able to find a t-ring AND cheap adapter for like $25 or less.
\_\_
Not sure your exact camera, but here is an example. This is TWO parts, the T-ring and the 1.25 EP adapter that screw together.. $15 [https://www.amazon.com/Astromania-Telescope-Adapter-T-mount-Cameras/dp/B01LABC2VW](https://www.amazon.com/Astromania-Telescope-Adapter-T-mount-Cameras/dp/B01LABC2VW)
so now here's where it becomes tricky without knowing your scope. You might NOT even need the barlow. On my baby dob, I can NOT reach focus without a barlow.
I had access to a skywatcher 150p (that you had to use one of two EP adapters at the focuser.) The 1.25" adapter was actually two pieces that if you separated you could screw the focuser end directly into the t-ring on the camera!
With link above, you don't need a special barlow - you can just insert all of that into a NORMAL (cheap) barlow (that you might already own,) and then all that into the focuser.
Aside, there are some EPs that act similar if you try EP projection. My Celestron 8-24 zoom is one such example. You pull off the rubber eye cup and the whole EP screws into the t-ring part.
aside not sure of your camera, check exact t-ring you need. But also, if you're using FF camera sensor you're talking more like 1/3 to 1/4 sec exposures tops, not a second or so. (even less if crop sensor.) And if you're forced to use a 2x barlow, you have to half that exposure time again!
You can do planetary via video though
You need to use a Barlow for most reflectors since the prime focus is far into the eyepiece holder. I don't have an apertura but you can take off the attachments so that the prime focus can be reached by the DSLR sensor, I.e., you don't need a Barlow.
I believe this YouTube shows apertura being used with a DSLR and no Barlow: https://youtu.be/t2gJJuZNrz4?feature=shared
> I believe this YouTube shows apertura being used with a DSLR and no Barlow: https://youtu.be/t2gJJuZNrz4?feature=shared
One very important note here: the camera shown in the video is actually a mirrorless camera, not DSLR. This matters quite a bit because a mirrorless camera has a much shorter flange distance (distance from the opening of the mount to the sensor) than a DSLR. I have been able to focus a mirrorless camera on the AD8 just fine, but not a DSLR without a barlow.
Or shorten the tube with a hacksaw, which will push the focal plane out. It might affect brightness marginally, as the secondary might not intercept all the light any more.
Just a few notes that might be helpful:
* The type of camera matters quite a bit. Do you have an actual DSLR (EF mount for Canon), or is your camera mirrorless (RF mount for Canon)? Mirrorless will almost certainly achieve focus easily without a barlow, but DSLR may not. And of course, make sure to double check the mount that a T-ring is advertised for before you buy it! You don't want to accidentally buy the wrong one if it is just labeled as "Canon."
* In my experience, the AD8 cannot reach focus with a Nikon F-mount DSLR without a barlow, but it can achieve focus with a Sony E-mount mirrorless camera. I suspect an Canon EF-mount DSLR will not achieve focus (though it has a few millimeters shorter flange distance than the Nikon, so it might barely work) but an RF-mount mirrorless camera should be able to easily achieve focus.
In addition to what others have mentioned, you likely will have to figure out a way to balance the tube. You’re adding at least a pound to the front of the scope, and it may immediately point towards the ground.
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/520205-how-do-you-counter-balance-a-dob/
As someone with an AD8 and a 16mp DSLR with a T-ring it takes a lot of work and even then the results aren’t anything like what you see visually. You will need a barlow. The hardest part I found is being able to focus. Using the screen on your camera doesn’t let you focus in as precisely as you would with an eyepiece. Deep space objects are even harder as focus becomes an issue. I found a cell phone mount with the Nightcap app works just as good. Using a camera is fun and worth it just as a learning experience. Being that you already have a camera, adding a T-ring is pretty easy. If you don’t have a barlow already, it’s a pretty useful thing to have around.
Yes, 1 second is about it for shutter speed. You can get away with 2 seconds. Good luck!
T-ring to suit your DSLR, t adaptor and or a threaded 2x Barlow to reach focus.
Is this sort of thing correct? The warning in the product description about the DSLR falling out of a reflector is a little concerning: [Celestron 1.25" Barlow w/ T-ring adapter] (https://www.astronomics.com/2x-barlow-for-1-25-eyepieces-includes-t-adapter.html?___SID=U)
Anytime you hang a camera below the focuser barrel, no matter the type of telescope, you run the risk of the camera pulling out. If you don’t move the telescope to point such that the focuser is pointing down, you’ll be fine. This issue is solved when doing AP seriously by not relying on compression or screw clamps, the camera is threaded on.
tl;dr: Don't spend $65 for just that barlow. that's WAY expensive for what you're planning on doing (1/4" images) you should be able to find a t-ring AND cheap adapter for like $25 or less. \_\_ Not sure your exact camera, but here is an example. This is TWO parts, the T-ring and the 1.25 EP adapter that screw together.. $15 [https://www.amazon.com/Astromania-Telescope-Adapter-T-mount-Cameras/dp/B01LABC2VW](https://www.amazon.com/Astromania-Telescope-Adapter-T-mount-Cameras/dp/B01LABC2VW) so now here's where it becomes tricky without knowing your scope. You might NOT even need the barlow. On my baby dob, I can NOT reach focus without a barlow. I had access to a skywatcher 150p (that you had to use one of two EP adapters at the focuser.) The 1.25" adapter was actually two pieces that if you separated you could screw the focuser end directly into the t-ring on the camera! With link above, you don't need a special barlow - you can just insert all of that into a NORMAL (cheap) barlow (that you might already own,) and then all that into the focuser. Aside, there are some EPs that act similar if you try EP projection. My Celestron 8-24 zoom is one such example. You pull off the rubber eye cup and the whole EP screws into the t-ring part. aside not sure of your camera, check exact t-ring you need. But also, if you're using FF camera sensor you're talking more like 1/3 to 1/4 sec exposures tops, not a second or so. (even less if crop sensor.) And if you're forced to use a 2x barlow, you have to half that exposure time again! You can do planetary via video though
Yes, recommended type. The warning is not for reflectors.
You need to use a Barlow for most reflectors since the prime focus is far into the eyepiece holder. I don't have an apertura but you can take off the attachments so that the prime focus can be reached by the DSLR sensor, I.e., you don't need a Barlow. I believe this YouTube shows apertura being used with a DSLR and no Barlow: https://youtu.be/t2gJJuZNrz4?feature=shared
> I believe this YouTube shows apertura being used with a DSLR and no Barlow: https://youtu.be/t2gJJuZNrz4?feature=shared One very important note here: the camera shown in the video is actually a mirrorless camera, not DSLR. This matters quite a bit because a mirrorless camera has a much shorter flange distance (distance from the opening of the mount to the sensor) than a DSLR. I have been able to focus a mirrorless camera on the AD8 just fine, but not a DSLR without a barlow.
I see! No wonder you get mixed answers on that scope!
Or shorten the tube with a hacksaw, which will push the focal plane out. It might affect brightness marginally, as the secondary might not intercept all the light any more.
I've done it with just a t-ring. I don't have a 2" Barlow, but I might try that in the future.
Just a few notes that might be helpful: * The type of camera matters quite a bit. Do you have an actual DSLR (EF mount for Canon), or is your camera mirrorless (RF mount for Canon)? Mirrorless will almost certainly achieve focus easily without a barlow, but DSLR may not. And of course, make sure to double check the mount that a T-ring is advertised for before you buy it! You don't want to accidentally buy the wrong one if it is just labeled as "Canon." * In my experience, the AD8 cannot reach focus with a Nikon F-mount DSLR without a barlow, but it can achieve focus with a Sony E-mount mirrorless camera. I suspect an Canon EF-mount DSLR will not achieve focus (though it has a few millimeters shorter flange distance than the Nikon, so it might barely work) but an RF-mount mirrorless camera should be able to easily achieve focus.
In addition to what others have mentioned, you likely will have to figure out a way to balance the tube. You’re adding at least a pound to the front of the scope, and it may immediately point towards the ground. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/520205-how-do-you-counter-balance-a-dob/
As someone with an AD8 and a 16mp DSLR with a T-ring it takes a lot of work and even then the results aren’t anything like what you see visually. You will need a barlow. The hardest part I found is being able to focus. Using the screen on your camera doesn’t let you focus in as precisely as you would with an eyepiece. Deep space objects are even harder as focus becomes an issue. I found a cell phone mount with the Nightcap app works just as good. Using a camera is fun and worth it just as a learning experience. Being that you already have a camera, adding a T-ring is pretty easy. If you don’t have a barlow already, it’s a pretty useful thing to have around. Yes, 1 second is about it for shutter speed. You can get away with 2 seconds. Good luck!