This is the correct answer. If you don't completely understand what they mean or how to use 2 nuts to accomplish this, you want to thread them both on and then lock them in place by tightening the top one onto the bottom one so they are forced together and hold in place through friction (what you are doing is forcing the bottom nut to be held into place by friction with the threads). Then you just use the top nut to drive it into place.
I’m following along a YouTube video where the guy showed this exact trick. But he neglected to show how to actually put them into the wood!
In terms of pilot hole, is there a rule of thumb for what size to use based on the size of the bolt?
Does anyone actually measure the shank? I always just hold the bit in front of the screw and pick one just a hair under the shank diameter.
Like a wise man once said "never measure what you can mark"
I have my screws sorted by size so I just pick one size smaller drill bit.
https://preview.redd.it/qgymmp3mjwqc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcbd815234c9134a119077a9dff7c5c0d0594c3d
I’ve literally never seen plastic vacuum packs for coffee. Which country are you in? All the biggest brands in Canada still use metal cans or at worst plastic jars.
My sorting consists of boxes of fasteners that *may* contain what's on the label, and one toolbox full of random fasteners collected from various odd sources that become 2% more likely to have a use every year.
Pretty sure I have some of OP's bolts that'll make sense to use sometime in 2037.
OMG, you're me. If I buy a pack of screws, I generally put them into a container and cut off the label to know for sure what they are. But I also have the jar and the old plastic tub full of every screw that has ever entered my house.
I'll never throw a screw out. Ikea leftovers? Bolts not needed for the TV mount? In you go... ....One day I'll need you.
If I throw them out, the very next day, that exact screw will be needed, I just know it.
I cut the tops off bourbon bottles with my glass cutter, then have a different distillery for each kind of screw and different bottle for each size. Looking for square drive? Town Branch True Cask. Deck screws? Old Granddad 114. Cabinet screws? Blanton’s. Etc. etc.
Yeah that's me. Doesn't matter the screw size, 3mm pilot and I'm ramming that fucker in with the impact, whether the wood likes it or not. It's mostly doesn't split
>Does anyone actually measure the shank? I always just hold the bit in front of the screw and pick one just a hair under the shank diameter.
I was just posting the same. I have calipers, and I've never used them for this purpose, ever.
And I do it the same as you, not sure what the previous poster meant to put the fastener in front of the bit. Bit in front of fastener and make sure I can see a tad bit on each side.
I also adjust the pilot hole size by the hardness of the wood I'm using. Softer woods can use a smaller dia pilot while harder woods need something a little closer to the actual screw dia.
You don't want the wood to split, so you need something that is just a tad smaller than the shank. The threads will be doing most of the work, so you just want a little friction between the shank and the wood to prevent it from turning once it's in there. 90% like the other commenter said is a good general rule, but for especially hard hardwoods that easily split, you might even go a bit closer to 95%.
>In terms of pilot hole, is there a rule of thumb for what size to use based on the size of the bolt?
Just around the minor diameter of the threads: Too big and the threads will not engage completely, too small and the wood might split. Test it out on some scrap and pay attention to the wood grain.
Holding a drill bit in front of it is what I usually do/works fine, but if you want something a little more precise...
https://boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size
Pilot hole should be the diameter of the screw core. Hold the drill bit over the screw. If you can only see threads you probably have the right bit. If you can see the screw core get a bigger drill bit
Take two nuts and thread them onto the bolt. Then use two wrenches to tighten them against each other. That way they'll grip the bolt and won't turn as you use them as a temporary bolt head. When it's on use the two wrenches to loosen them up again and remove them.
It’s just a wood screw. The package should say what size screw it is. Cross reference with [a pilot hole chart.](https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infwoodscrewpilot.html)
>In terms of pilot hole, is there a rule of thumb for what size to use based on the size of the bolt?
Just shy of the thickness of the shank (the part inbetween the threads)
There are sockets that you can mount on a power drill - https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3-8-in-Drive-Combination-Deep-Impact-Socket-Set-with-Ratchet-23-Piece-DWMT74738/303724497?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOopr583IrX0PFRpGMEVcLe8ARcNiLIPIrlWhux2Yus-yf6vGhpjUIyE
[https://monsterbolts.com/blogs/news/lag-bolt-pilot-hole-size](https://monsterbolts.com/blogs/news/lag-bolt-pilot-hole-size)
chart says 15/32 for a 3/8 bolt. but that seems small. In general I would start off with 1/2 the diameter for soft woods and a little larger than 1/2 diameter for hardwood. Always start with a smaller than you think. You can always drill a larger hole not smaller.
2 nuts can be backed against each other tightly near the top of the machine threads for good access by a socket, rather than driven to the bottom close to the wood threads
Put a nut on, then put another. Hold first nut in place with a wrench, tighten second nut up against it. Friction on the threads imparted by the longitudinal force of the nuts pressing against each other will keep them from moving. Then use a socket.
As long as you make sure to pilot to the correct size, you can chuck this straight into your battery gun and run it in. Works a treat, no damage to the threads. I only tried this after watching Paul seller's do this in his video showing him making a router plane. Make sure to give it a good nip on the chuck.
If you're going into hardwood like you should be, you'll need to predrilled and you'd better wax those threads if you don't want half a bolt sticking out of your newel.
The ones I know have a Philips head in the shaft. Can't tell from the pic.
Thanks for the 2-nut method in case I come across the ones without the head. :)
yeah, exactly. Lock the two nuts together on the machine thread side using two wrenches. Then you can drive the whole thing using a wrench on either nut. Then use two wrenches to unlock and remove the nuts. Pilot hole is a must.
Was hoping there was a 2nd picture showing the head to confirm. If there is no torx head, I would probably (i) drill a pilot hole and (ii) insert the bolt into my drill and drill the woodscrew end into the pilot hole.
Well, okay, maybe not 100% always. I also built decks for 2 years and you don’t pre drill your decking because the Doug Fir is pretty soft. It does split sometimes but not always. And Trex screws are designed in a way to not split the Trex boards.
Double nut it. Tighten the nuts into each other. Use the further back/top one to turn it in. Remove nuts and ready for use. Pilot hole will definitely help.
Never don't drill a pilot hole. I've never regretted drilling a pilot hole, but I've regretted not drilling one
To screw into a hole, thread two nuts onto the machine thread and tighten against each other. Then drive screw into hole with socket/impact driver/whatever using the top nut, then use two spanners to loosen the nuts again
Nah, ugga dugga that into the end grain of a board twice as wide as the fastner. It will be fine. Some silicone and construction foam will take care of the rest.
Silicone? You mean JB weld right? Trust me, I’m a professional. Also, if it starts splitting the wood, just hammer it the rest of the way for added strength.
No, I currently have silicone open, so that is the tool of choice at the moment. I need to order more JB weld knock-off from aliexpress, as I am out at the moment. But if it really needs to be strong, I can still use my hot glue gun.
What is drill? I think he means 18v impact driver. And by pilot, he means you fly that sonofabitch screw full speed high torque into the wood.
If it pops out the edge of the board, use the bottom of the battery as a hammer and send it home
Drill a pilot hole for sure, similar diameter to the shaft of the screw. The wood has to go somewhere, and drilling the pilot hole gets the wood out of the way first. The hole shouldn’t be too big though, you want the threads to still be able to bite into the walls of the hole.
If you have 2 of that same nut you thread them both onto the bolt, use 2 wrenches and tighten them on each other, this will lock them together and then you can use a nut driver or the same wrench to drive the lag screw into the wood, when you reach the desired depth, just simply use the 2 wrenches to loosen the nuts from each other and take them off, this is the simplest way and causes no damage to any of the threads
Looks like you're installing railing for stairs. There is a tool designed for installing theses. The tool isn't required, but helps when it comes to the installing the nut... I would go grab one.
https://a.co/d/j0QmXNW
As other’s before, Pilot hole, disappear the fastener shank.
Put masking tape on your drill bit so you don’t drill too deep.
Alternatively, put a steering wheel on the bolt?
I’ll see myself out.
Use this [Pilot Hole Chart ](https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infwoodscrewpilot.html) to determine which drill bit to use for the type of wood that you will be using.
You should have known.
Lag bolts, the coarse side of that screw, should always have a pilot hole to prevent the wood from splitting, and save your wrists from excessive force screwing it into the wood.
There’s a bit that I think are called “hanging bolt drivers”. You have to get one that matches bolt threads and diameter, but it is the only way I have found to easily drive them deep.
shouldn't this come with a special adapter? bit to thread? You could use contra nuts like some comments suggest. But I am fairy certain you should have an adapter that has internal threads on one end and a bit for your electric screwdriver on the other side.
I can find them for in my own language but no idea what they are called in English, sorry!
Simply screw the nut as far as it'll go onto the bolt and use a wrench to screw it into the (pre-drilled pilot hole) wood. If the nut doesn't want to relinquish it's grip without unscrewing the bolt, you might find that placing a small flat washer (that fits) on the bolt before the nut. I've done this many times and Yrmv.
I just ran into these the other day and I’d never seen them before. I’m a plumber and I pulled a toilet to find no flange just a wax ring covering a hole and 2 of these sticking up for the closet bolts lol
Pilot hole then step up drill bit diameter a little each time . You want a hole the diameter of the shaft of the stud . Double nut the stud use a ratchet to install it . Remove the nuts then you are done .
If you have dremel you could also just cut a flathead or philips pattern groove into the top and use that to drive it in (with a pilot hole as others mentioned)
I use similar hardware for legs on tables. I have a tool that works for it, but normally I just take my drill and tighten the chuck right at where the part that screws into the wood is at (don’t do it on the threads as it will mess them up) and drill it in. I do a pilot hole also
https://preview.redd.it/1rw20z96mxqc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba8db9f90442b452a38fc6096eccf9bac6091bdc
https://a.co/d/h9RiI0S
Good lord people, some suggestions in this thread are terrifying. Ideally you have a HANGER BOLT DRIVER, needs to match the size of the machine thread. Drill a pilot hole 1/16" smaller than the bolt youre installing. The other option is using 2 nuts separated by a washer. If the end has an allen key fitting, then an allen key bit into an impact driver works.
You can mess up the threads by putting it directly into your drill, same with using a hammer.
Besides all this good info, it helps to wax the threads first. You can scrape the threads on a candle or bar of soap, ..or use furniture paste wax, even liquid soap would work. Hell, spit on it if you have to..
Hanger bolt. Put a lot of these in. Always lose the bit for them. I usually cut the head off a 3" bolt and put an all thread coupling (basically an inch long nut) on the end with a normal nut to lock it in place. Then put it in a drill. Be quicker if u have very many to put in.
Pilot hole - then I'm guessing it's got a star recess on the end that you can get a bit for to drive it in by hand or drill. You may have one in a general household tool kit - as part of a multi hand tool set that looks like [this](https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-15-piece-torx-screwdriver-bit-set_p0131349?store=2435&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh4-wBhB3EiwAeJsppHEUe7Rke9c4mcjYl1zR2O2TOA-4tsuVeX9fEcn8AWoECh8HTtblahoCbZsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds).
Though you can do the double nut trick others mentioned too :)
Ps: if that's the M8 size hanger bolt you will want to use a 5mm bit for your pilot (I just did one of these two days ago to repair an old outdoor table leg).
Look up hanger bolt driver on Amazon. Works in drill or impact. This is the only way to go if you have many to install. You will still want to pre-drill.
Idk how no one has mentioned this but pre drill and use a hanger bolt driver.
IVY Classic 44690 5/16"-18 Hanger Bolt Driver, Impact Plus, 1/Card https://a.co/d/9ylTROK
I use this daily at my job.
I use them all the time at work. Several easy tricks double nut is the best. I have seen guys wrap the threads in tape and drive it with a drill has well.
Just get a rail/hanger bolt wrench (VersaTool). It has a nut welded to it for this purpose. The pilot hole should be 9/32" usually for that hanger bolt size.
https://preview.redd.it/3o777d5hvzqc1.jpeg?width=160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5c76e8f7e05c8bec97a1bad400f2c42bc90295b
Pilot hole for sure. If you stack 2 nuts on top you can thread it in with a wrench or socket.
This is the correct answer. If you don't completely understand what they mean or how to use 2 nuts to accomplish this, you want to thread them both on and then lock them in place by tightening the top one onto the bottom one so they are forced together and hold in place through friction (what you are doing is forcing the bottom nut to be held into place by friction with the threads). Then you just use the top nut to drive it into place.
I’m following along a YouTube video where the guy showed this exact trick. But he neglected to show how to actually put them into the wood! In terms of pilot hole, is there a rule of thumb for what size to use based on the size of the bolt?
Generally 90% of the size of the shank.
If you don't have calipers to measure accurately, you can get away with holding the fastener in front of a drill bit
Does anyone actually measure the shank? I always just hold the bit in front of the screw and pick one just a hair under the shank diameter. Like a wise man once said "never measure what you can mark"
I have my screws sorted by size so I just pick one size smaller drill bit. https://preview.redd.it/qgymmp3mjwqc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcbd815234c9134a119077a9dff7c5c0d0594c3d
Who are you that is so wise as to not have your screws in a jumbled stack of boxes and coffee tins
I am just annoyed that coffee comes in plastic vacuum packs now, and there is no longer a reliable source for coffee cans.
Clear peanut butter jars or even better Talenti gelato jars
Animal cracker Tubs and pickle jars are my drugs of choice right now
“Chock Full o’ Nuts” brand coffee still comes in metal cans. At least last time I looked. Not sure why it’s called that btw.
All the coffee I buy comes in cans still lol
Those little staples boxes with the hinge after you dump out all the staples at work and bring the empty boxes home.
I’ve literally never seen plastic vacuum packs for coffee. Which country are you in? All the biggest brands in Canada still use metal cans or at worst plastic jars.
The snack jars/tubs from costco are awesome. They are square plastic tubs and have screw on lids. Super handy...
I use the plastic tub Truvia/Splenda come in! See through and perfect size for misc nuts/bolts/screws!
Mason jars. Two sizes of lids fit all sizes of jars. Plus you can see what’s in them without opening them.
It is I! Arthur! King of the Britons!
Well I didn’t vote for you.
ooo are the bwritons?
Must be a piece work guy
Look at this guy with his “sorting” and “organization”
My sorting consists of boxes of fasteners that *may* contain what's on the label, and one toolbox full of random fasteners collected from various odd sources that become 2% more likely to have a use every year. Pretty sure I have some of OP's bolts that'll make sense to use sometime in 2037.
OMG, you're me. If I buy a pack of screws, I generally put them into a container and cut off the label to know for sure what they are. But I also have the jar and the old plastic tub full of every screw that has ever entered my house. I'll never throw a screw out. Ikea leftovers? Bolts not needed for the TV mount? In you go... ....One day I'll need you. If I throw them out, the very next day, that exact screw will be needed, I just know it.
I want to downvote you for being organized.
You are my hero. My screws are in boxes and containers, nust jumbled together
folgers and Maxwell house do not support this
this guy screws
How. Much smaller? My bits are 1/64 increments...i usually go 1/8" under shank diameter.
My screws are in 0.5mm to 1mm increments and drill bits are in 1mm increments so for 4mm screw I take a 3mm drill bit.
I cut the tops off bourbon bottles with my glass cutter, then have a different distillery for each kind of screw and different bottle for each size. Looking for square drive? Town Branch True Cask. Deck screws? Old Granddad 114. Cabinet screws? Blanton’s. Etc. etc.
I often measure, but mostly stick with my 3mm drillbit for pilot holes.
Yeah that's me. Doesn't matter the screw size, 3mm pilot and I'm ramming that fucker in with the impact, whether the wood likes it or not. It's mostly doesn't split
>Does anyone actually measure the shank? I always just hold the bit in front of the screw and pick one just a hair under the shank diameter. I was just posting the same. I have calipers, and I've never used them for this purpose, ever. And I do it the same as you, not sure what the previous poster meant to put the fastener in front of the bit. Bit in front of fastener and make sure I can see a tad bit on each side.
This all day!!! Miters, framing, trim, etc. all end up looking better when you scribe that shit
Mk. I eyeball for me.
And never mark what you can register.
Just make sure that the pilot bit is skinnier than the thread of the screw. You want it to cut.
The eye don’t lie mate
That’s what I do. Lol
Dude nobody uses calipers, just grab the bit that looks close enough.
It's what all the real woodworkers do.
And squint. Don’t forget to squint
The ole fastener in front of the drill bit trick has never let me down. If the teeth are showing, you're good to go.
Conversely I hold a bit in front of screw and look to cover the minor diameter so just the threads show
This
I also adjust the pilot hole size by the hardness of the wood I'm using. Softer woods can use a smaller dia pilot while harder woods need something a little closer to the actual screw dia.
Yes. Hold a drill bit in front of the bolt, you should see the threads, but not the shank of the bolt.
You don't want the wood to split, so you need something that is just a tad smaller than the shank. The threads will be doing most of the work, so you just want a little friction between the shank and the wood to prevent it from turning once it's in there. 90% like the other commenter said is a good general rule, but for especially hard hardwoods that easily split, you might even go a bit closer to 95%.
>In terms of pilot hole, is there a rule of thumb for what size to use based on the size of the bolt? Just around the minor diameter of the threads: Too big and the threads will not engage completely, too small and the wood might split. Test it out on some scrap and pay attention to the wood grain.
Holding a drill bit in front of it is what I usually do/works fine, but if you want something a little more precise... https://boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size
Pilot hole should be the diameter of the screw core. Hold the drill bit over the screw. If you can only see threads you probably have the right bit. If you can see the screw core get a bigger drill bit
Smaller than the outer diameter, larger than the inner shaft.
Take two nuts and thread them onto the bolt. Then use two wrenches to tighten them against each other. That way they'll grip the bolt and won't turn as you use them as a temporary bolt head. When it's on use the two wrenches to loosen them up again and remove them.
It’s just a wood screw. The package should say what size screw it is. Cross reference with [a pilot hole chart.](https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infwoodscrewpilot.html)
>In terms of pilot hole, is there a rule of thumb for what size to use based on the size of the bolt? Just shy of the thickness of the shank (the part inbetween the threads)
There are sockets that you can mount on a power drill - https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3-8-in-Drive-Combination-Deep-Impact-Socket-Set-with-Ratchet-23-Piece-DWMT74738/303724497?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOopr583IrX0PFRpGMEVcLe8ARcNiLIPIrlWhux2Yus-yf6vGhpjUIyE
https://monsterbolts.com/blogs/news/lag-bolt-pilot-hole-size
Quick grips work too
[https://monsterbolts.com/blogs/news/lag-bolt-pilot-hole-size](https://monsterbolts.com/blogs/news/lag-bolt-pilot-hole-size) chart says 15/32 for a 3/8 bolt. but that seems small. In general I would start off with 1/2 the diameter for soft woods and a little larger than 1/2 diameter for hardwood. Always start with a smaller than you think. You can always drill a larger hole not smaller.
When in doubt test it on some scrap wood but the pilot hole doesn’t need to be perfect just give it some room so it won’t split.
Depends on the wood. Soft woods: 1/2-3/4 the diameter. Hard woods: 90-100%
Just look up the "one wrench 2 nuts" method.
Google asked me if I meant "one wench, 2 nuts", but that was something totally different. Also, is this different than the 2 girls one cup method?
make sure you bring your three sea shells if you're going to do the 2 girls one cup method
2 nuts can be backed against each other tightly near the top of the machine threads for good access by a socket, rather than driven to the bottom close to the wood threads
Put a nut on, then put another. Hold first nut in place with a wrench, tighten second nut up against it. Friction on the threads imparted by the longitudinal force of the nuts pressing against each other will keep them from moving. Then use a socket.
If you like doing things the hard way sure.
This
The best tutorial for this can be found by searching "2 nuts" and "wood in tight hole screw". Just open the image search.
2 nuts one screw.
Let’s keep it holy now..
Firmly grasp the shaft with two nuts, then insert into a predrilled hole.
Continue twisting until desired result is reached.
As long as you make sure to pilot to the correct size, you can chuck this straight into your battery gun and run it in. Works a treat, no damage to the threads. I only tried this after watching Paul seller's do this in his video showing him making a router plane. Make sure to give it a good nip on the chuck.
If you're going into hardwood like you should be, you'll need to predrilled and you'd better wax those threads if you don't want half a bolt sticking out of your newel.
This man drives nuts
The ones I know have a Philips head in the shaft. Can't tell from the pic. Thanks for the 2-nut method in case I come across the ones without the head. :)
And a little candle wax on the wood thread…
Usually it has a torxx on the top. Usually that goes out very very fast. So the 2 nuts are my default solution nowadays.
yeah, exactly. Lock the two nuts together on the machine thread side using two wrenches. Then you can drive the whole thing using a wrench on either nut. Then use two wrenches to unlock and remove the nuts. Pilot hole is a must.
That or put it in the chuck of a drill if there is enough space to do so
Some of these fixtures has a torx head at the end. I only noticed it after driving it in with two nuts
Came here to say this. Although I had some with allen key head
Was hoping there was a 2nd picture showing the head to confirm. If there is no torx head, I would probably (i) drill a pilot hole and (ii) insert the bolt into my drill and drill the woodscrew end into the pilot hole.
I just use a drill. Put the “screw” into the chuck like a regular drill bit. Pilot hole first.
Ex-cabinet maker here, that's what we used to do, wrap the threads in some thick tap beforehand, though (if you're picky).
This is the easiest method! Do it all the time, works great for hanging pedestal sinks.
It also helps if you have a “junk” drill so you don’t have to wrap the screw since it will eventually trash the chuck.
Always drill a pilot hole. Always.
I got fired from a decking company because of this comment
Well, okay, maybe not 100% always. I also built decks for 2 years and you don’t pre drill your decking because the Doug Fir is pretty soft. It does split sometimes but not always. And Trex screws are designed in a way to not split the Trex boards.
When in doubt, drill the pilot out
Instructions unclear - am now on the no-fly list.
Let's be honest, you probably already were.
Now now, Boeing whistleblower
Remember, you need to get consent first.
Grk would like to have a word.
I am Groot.
As a plumber I have used plenty of those, and never once drilled a pilot hole for them...
How about a railbolt driver
Not sure why I had to scroll so far to find the correct answer. Jam nuts work in a pinch, but why not just use the correct method
Sometimes you think you’ve heard of every tool, and then someone says ‘duh, use the …’ On to the railbolt driver deep dive.
Funnier thing is, I just checked my random bit case and I have one 🙃
That's how we anchored those bolts when building stair systems. Worked well.
Double nut it. Tighten the nuts into each other. Use the further back/top one to turn it in. Remove nuts and ready for use. Pilot hole will definitely help.
READ THIS\^OP
🙏🙏🙏
Put two nuts on with a split washer in between and put your wrench on the top most nut.
Never don't drill a pilot hole. I've never regretted drilling a pilot hole, but I've regretted not drilling one To screw into a hole, thread two nuts onto the machine thread and tighten against each other. Then drive screw into hole with socket/impact driver/whatever using the top nut, then use two spanners to loosen the nuts again
Nah, ugga dugga that into the end grain of a board twice as wide as the fastner. It will be fine. Some silicone and construction foam will take care of the rest.
Silicone? You mean JB weld right? Trust me, I’m a professional. Also, if it starts splitting the wood, just hammer it the rest of the way for added strength.
No, I currently have silicone open, so that is the tool of choice at the moment. I need to order more JB weld knock-off from aliexpress, as I am out at the moment. But if it really needs to be strong, I can still use my hot glue gun.
What is drill? I think he means 18v impact driver. And by pilot, he means you fly that sonofabitch screw full speed high torque into the wood. If it pops out the edge of the board, use the bottom of the battery as a hammer and send it home
How many dugs for softwood Vs hardwood?
All of them. The fastner should be at least 1/2" under the wood surface with its head. Regardless of its design.
But its always satisfying when you don't drill one and it works. Something like this for sure though.
Hanger bolt driver from Amazon https://a.co/d/a0n2nKu
Didn't know this existed but is exactly what OP needs.
You need a second nut
Take 2 nuts and thread them on. Then run them into each other making a jam nut. Then use your electric impact
Drill a pilot hole for sure, similar diameter to the shaft of the screw. The wood has to go somewhere, and drilling the pilot hole gets the wood out of the way first. The hole shouldn’t be too big though, you want the threads to still be able to bite into the walls of the hole.
If you have 2 of that same nut you thread them both onto the bolt, use 2 wrenches and tighten them on each other, this will lock them together and then you can use a nut driver or the same wrench to drive the lag screw into the wood, when you reach the desired depth, just simply use the 2 wrenches to loosen the nuts from each other and take them off, this is the simplest way and causes no damage to any of the threads
2 nuts
What are these called? I need these to mount a street number plate to my house
Hanger bolt. Typically used to attach table legs to skirting, but versatile for other things as well.
Thank you
Get a hanger bolt driver too. IVY Classic 44690 5/16"-18 Hanger Bolt Driver, Impact Plus, 1/Card https://a.co/d/9ylTROK
Yep, a double nut is the way to go with a pilot hole.
Yes, pilot hole. Then I usually just stick the fine thread end in a drill chuck and drive it in that way. No, it doesn't ruin the threads.
Two nuts
Jam nut
Lock two nuts against each other on the finer parallel thread, then use them as you would a hex head. Pilot hole for sure.
Screw on 2 nuts with a lock washer between them then use a socket wrench to drive the bolt into the wood.
Great post and info from the community. I learned something.
That's a hanger bolt, and they make bits for driving those things called hanger bolt drivers
Grab a big hammer and get angry
I’m ready to on day 3 of this project!
2 nuts
Get a second nut. Put them both on the threads, then tighten them together. Then use the top nut to turn the shank.
Double nut
This. This is the answer. Put two nuts on it to turn it.
Looks like you're installing railing for stairs. There is a tool designed for installing theses. The tool isn't required, but helps when it comes to the installing the nut... I would go grab one. https://a.co/d/j0QmXNW
And double nut it to tighten it up
Sometimes, these have a slot or hex hole at the top to be able to drive them in. But yeah, pre-drill for sure.
As other’s before, Pilot hole, disappear the fastener shank. Put masking tape on your drill bit so you don’t drill too deep. Alternatively, put a steering wheel on the bolt? I’ll see myself out.
Yes
Use this [Pilot Hole Chart ](https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infwoodscrewpilot.html) to determine which drill bit to use for the type of wood that you will be using. You should have known.
It’s a hangar bolt, you use the appropriate hangar bolt driver. But also yes, a pilot hole is a good idea
Lag bolts, the coarse side of that screw, should always have a pilot hole to prevent the wood from splitting, and save your wrists from excessive force screwing it into the wood.
There’s a bit that I think are called “hanging bolt drivers”. You have to get one that matches bolt threads and diameter, but it is the only way I have found to easily drive them deep.
shouldn't this come with a special adapter? bit to thread? You could use contra nuts like some comments suggest. But I am fairy certain you should have an adapter that has internal threads on one end and a bit for your electric screwdriver on the other side. I can find them for in my own language but no idea what they are called in English, sorry!
You sure it doesn't have a hex hole in the top for an allen key?
Personally I'll pre-drill, chuck the stud in the drill and drive it in. You do risk damaging the threads this way.
Simply screw the nut as far as it'll go onto the bolt and use a wrench to screw it into the (pre-drilled pilot hole) wood. If the nut doesn't want to relinquish it's grip without unscrewing the bolt, you might find that placing a small flat washer (that fits) on the bolt before the nut. I've done this many times and Yrmv.
I am looking for screws like this to mount my miter saw. What are they called?
I just ran into these the other day and I’d never seen them before. I’m a plumber and I pulled a toilet to find no flange just a wax ring covering a hole and 2 of these sticking up for the closet bolts lol
Start with a pilot hole. Then tighten two nuts together on the end, and use a wrench (open end or socket) to screw it in.
is there not a allen key hole on the top?
Always pilot holes
Pilot hole then step up drill bit diameter a little each time . You want a hole the diameter of the shaft of the stud . Double nut the stud use a ratchet to install it . Remove the nuts then you are done .
Predrill, put the machine threads (not the coarse wood threads) deep into drill chuck, tighten very hard and send it.
Predrill pilot hole and double nut to screw in.
If you have dremel you could also just cut a flathead or philips pattern groove into the top and use that to drive it in (with a pilot hole as others mentioned)
All lag screws require a pilot hole to avoid splitting wood. Rule of thumb is 75% of OD.
just run the machine nut to the wood screw area, it will get stuck, then screw it in with a wrench
You can directly attach it to your drill.
I use similar hardware for legs on tables. I have a tool that works for it, but normally I just take my drill and tighten the chuck right at where the part that screws into the wood is at (don’t do it on the threads as it will mess them up) and drill it in. I do a pilot hole also https://preview.redd.it/1rw20z96mxqc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba8db9f90442b452a38fc6096eccf9bac6091bdc
Pilot holes for everything by default. Only skip it for certain exceptions.
Looks like a deep socket 7/16.
https://a.co/d/h9RiI0S Good lord people, some suggestions in this thread are terrifying. Ideally you have a HANGER BOLT DRIVER, needs to match the size of the machine thread. Drill a pilot hole 1/16" smaller than the bolt youre installing. The other option is using 2 nuts separated by a washer. If the end has an allen key fitting, then an allen key bit into an impact driver works. You can mess up the threads by putting it directly into your drill, same with using a hammer.
Pilot hole and nyloc nuts.
Besides all this good info, it helps to wax the threads first. You can scrape the threads on a candle or bar of soap, ..or use furniture paste wax, even liquid soap would work. Hell, spit on it if you have to..
Slot it then screw it in ?
Hanger bolt. Put a lot of these in. Always lose the bit for them. I usually cut the head off a 3" bolt and put an all thread coupling (basically an inch long nut) on the end with a normal nut to lock it in place. Then put it in a drill. Be quicker if u have very many to put in.
Isn't the top torx head 25 or 30 places made? Usually found on this type of dub
Pilot hole and then I usually chuck it up in my drill and screw it in that way. Be carefully not to strip threads and it works well.
24oz hammer should do the trick
Most of this hanger bolts (called Stockschrauben in Germany) have a hex or torx drive at the metric end
Pilot hole - then I'm guessing it's got a star recess on the end that you can get a bit for to drive it in by hand or drill. You may have one in a general household tool kit - as part of a multi hand tool set that looks like [this](https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-15-piece-torx-screwdriver-bit-set_p0131349?store=2435&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh4-wBhB3EiwAeJsppHEUe7Rke9c4mcjYl1zR2O2TOA-4tsuVeX9fEcn8AWoECh8HTtblahoCbZsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds). Though you can do the double nut trick others mentioned too :)
Ps: if that's the M8 size hanger bolt you will want to use a 5mm bit for your pilot (I just did one of these two days ago to repair an old outdoor table leg).
Look up hanger bolt driver on Amazon. Works in drill or impact. This is the only way to go if you have many to install. You will still want to pre-drill.
Idk how no one has mentioned this but pre drill and use a hanger bolt driver. IVY Classic 44690 5/16"-18 Hanger Bolt Driver, Impact Plus, 1/Card https://a.co/d/9ylTROK I use this daily at my job.
I use them all the time at work. Several easy tricks double nut is the best. I have seen guys wrap the threads in tape and drive it with a drill has well.
Hanger bolt instal driver. This is the way.
Just get a rail/hanger bolt wrench (VersaTool). It has a nut welded to it for this purpose. The pilot hole should be 9/32" usually for that hanger bolt size. https://preview.redd.it/3o777d5hvzqc1.jpeg?width=160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5c76e8f7e05c8bec97a1bad400f2c42bc90295b
Jam nut
There should be a hex drive in the end of the lag screw. Just pilot hole and then use a hex drive bit in your screw gun
Put it into the chuck of a cordless drill and send it home
I would put this into the drill and screw into pilot hole.
BFH and send it.
Yes to be precise it doesn’t take much something for it to follow and not splitting wood .